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car

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Everything posted by car

  1. I hear ya buddy....and it was a tough call for me not to do it. The cost was never the deciding factor, but rather "if it ain't broken don't mess with it." I must be lucky cause after 84K miles, that bearing was like new. Gives me no reason to think that it can't do another 40K. Besides....dropping the gearbox was not that bad (my first time). If better data on the failure rate comes out in the future, I can always invest another 6 hours to do it then. Thanks all!
  2. BTW...bearing checked out great! No play whatsoever and turns smoothly at 84K miles. I'm just going to replace the flange seal and call it good.
  3. After 2 hours iof search and some interesting reading, I've found the answers below. Thanks. And from Jake Raby "The bearing can be inspected by simply "parking" the engine @ TDC, removing the chain tensioners and the IMS bearing flange. The tensioners must be pulled or the IMS will have no support and will become off center in the engine making reassembly more difficult. Once the flange is removed the bearing can be checked for play/ wear and tight spots that indicate the races/ rollers are beginning to fail. At the same time the outer grease seal can be removed to allow the engine's lubricant to reach the bearing to more thoroughly lubricate it. "
  4. I'm in the process of replacing clutch and RMS. I'm tempted to replcace the IMS bearing, but have decided that if the old one is ok, then I would leave it alone as I'm concerned about the extracting process. I have the flange off, have loosened both the chain tentioners and tried to see if there were any play in the bearing from moving the bolt. Is that the correct way to check for play? I have a 2000 C-4 double row bearing with 84K miles. Thanks in advance.
  5. Thinking of picking these up and wondering if these are not too wide for my car at 11" in the rear. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...%3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1
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