BruceP

enjoy all you want, but for people who buy into the dyno graphs and get all excited about it only to find out that they can't pull on that stock 911... don't come back all confused. you don't get an n/a car for mod potential. go turbo if you're in it for the measurin contest.

you buy an exhaust for sound/looks here. period. placebo effect in the power dept. the wallet speaketh.

again, coming from a GIAC flash/EVOMS intake w/ PSE owner. i don't go around believing my car's picked up more power than the 98% of stock 911s out there on the streets up and down the West Coast.

PSE is absolutely worth the $2K+ however much it is. the sound is incredible. EVOMS intake straight up howls at 5K+ RPM WOT. glorious. well worth it.

Please reread my posts. Carefully.

-whether you gain hp or lose torque, the +/- is so nominal no one can begin to tell the diff and if they tell you so it's more wallet talking than objective reasoning speaking the truth

Ben, you're 100% entitled to your opinion based on your own experience. But to say that because you can't tell the difference, nobody on earth can tell the difference, judges the people who have spent their money differently than you, and isn't very helpful.

In my case - one guy, one car - I could tell the difference with the changes I made, and I enjoy it. That's the truth.

Sorry for the lame question, but can anyone describe to me what a stock 4s sounds like :)

Probably not. You should try searching YouTube. There are tons of clips there of Porsche exhaust sounds, some stock and some aftermarket. It's not perfect, but you'll do better than words could do.

What a properly engineered performance exhaust system does, basically, is trade off torque for peak horsepower. So it doesn't "add" horsepower per se, but it can change the way an engine makes power. A good one is not just about noise, but neither is it particularly useful for the way most people drive, beyond the sound.

Could you please elaborate on your explanation.

In the simplest possible terms, a 'restrictive' exhaust isn't a mistake the manufacturer made. It's part of a strategy to give the engine more low end torque, which comes at the expense of horsepower lost because the engine can't pump its given volume of air through itself as quickly. Likewise, there's a reason that racing engines have so few parts aft of the headers. It's not because they like the noise. It's because at the speeds they operate, peak horsepower matters much more to them than torque. Lots of racing engines feel gutless at low rpms, which consumers would never accept.

I'm sure there are smarter people than me here who can explain the science of lining up exhaust pulses, but that's the bottom line. There are good exhausts and bad exhausts, of course. And noise doesn't equal horsepower, but the two go hand in hand where exhaust systems are concerned.

An exhaust system isn't about more/less power. It's about tuning. The engineers set parameters for how much low end grunt the consumer will demand, versus how much horsepower they need or want to brag about, stir in emissions and noise requirements, and that's what they build. Tuning, whether with chips or intakes or exhausts, changes that equation, creating a different set of compromises than the one the engine designer decided on. The only way to get more horsepower and more torque is to pump more air through the engine, ie. with more displacement, or forced induction.

Since not even the PSE adds much in the way of hp, it is more a matter of sound than performance.

What a properly engineered performance exhaust system does, basically, is trade off torque for peak horsepower. So it doesn't "add" horsepower per se, but it can change the way an engine makes power. A good one is not just about noise, but neither is it particularly useful for the way most people drive, beyond the sound.

There's a copy of the sticker inside your the service book or the manual... forget which. But it's a duplicate of what was under the hood. This site has a great option code look-up.

I had always understood that the PSE had a switch on the dash. If that's correct, and you lack that switch, then that would be your answer. This wouldn't mean that you didn't have some other aftermarket exhaust, of course.

Enjoy your new car!

i actually have the GIAC flash coupled with the EVOMS and PSE.

i had the ECU back to stock for a week. could i tell a diff?

none at all.

I don't doubt you. But remember that the ECU is adaptive, chip or no chip. Just as an example, if I did nothing but urban commuting for a week and then 'unchipped', I wouldn't notice a difference either. Just like the stock car, the differences are more obvious the harder you drive it.

Each to his own, but I wouldn't want the guy left with the impression that ECU flashes do nothing at all.

Topics get closed? Come on, kidding right?

It's an example of why I like this forum, personally. This kind of aggressive moderating is what keeps the forum so focused and useful.

'Chip' tuning from a reputable manufacturer will not create any problems for your car. What's important to understand about this kind of tuning is that it makes its power by eliminating the safety margin the factory put into its timing/mixture parameters to allow for varying fuel quality and octane ratings. Once you've done this to your car, you have to avoid regular gasoline.

My car has Revo's ECU flash, and EVOMS intake and exhaust. I have never dyno'd the car, and I avoid debates about increased power. What I can tell you is that the combination changes the character of the car very distinctly and very much to my liking. IMO, that's how you have to look at the ROI on this kind of mod.

Enjoy your car!

Regarding Ben's comments: I guess it goes without saying that you should invest in a thorough PPI regardless of what you buy.

With 996s, I've observed that the cosmetic condition of the car and its mechanical health have nothing to do with each other. The 996 was an easy car to live with compared to previous 911s, and so was probably the most leased 911 ever. Then, depreciation was bad enough that people bought these things used who couldn't/wouldn't give them the care they needed beyond wax and tire dressing. Get somebody under it who knows what they're doing, and insist on the service history. They're cheap Porsches to buy, but no Porsche is cheap to own.

I am very interested in owning a 996 given that the 99 model can be had for under 20k.

However, the IMS is a big concern for me and a deal breaker. Given that said, what are ways to prevent it from happening? I really want to stay away from a 15k engine swap.

Any experience with the LN engineering IMS upgrade? How much does a tech charge to install this? Does this work? I am looking into getting a 99 with 80k miles. Can I expect to squeeze another 80k from the engine with a IMS upgrade? Thanks

http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html

I had my '00 modified with the IMS bearing retrofit earlier this summer. My IMS seal was leaking and the shaft was filled with oil, though there were no signs of it until the engine and tranny were separated. I got lucky with the timing.

How much? Roughly the same as a clutch installation. Whatever that costs where you are is probably the ballpark.

Does it work? It's manifestly beefier and better sealed than the original piece. Otherwise, once it's in, there is obviously zero observable difference.

Will it get you 80k more from the engine? The truth is that nobody knows yet. The piece is too new. And while it's better, it doesn't alter the fact that the engine still has an intermediate shaft, the underlying design decision that created the problem in the first place. Based just on common sense, I'm telling myself that I've reduced the risk radically and that along with good maintenance (lubrication in particular) and driving habits (keeping those revs up, for example), the car is much more likely to last a long time. But if you want an ironclad guarantee, it doesn't exist.

If you can live with that, go for it. IMHO, this motor is otherwise bone reliable for what it is, we're seeing some huge mileage on some, and there's a growing community of aftermarket support for the engine. In other words, it's a Porsche. ; )

Some have mounted first aid kit there. IIRC the German kit fit well, but Suncoast doesn't carry it anymore. Maybe no one does.

that sounds like something. I keep a couple of bandaids in the car and that's a good enough first aid kit, for me ;-) so if that thing comes with a nice, small, plastic box that mounts nicely in the trunk....

Carnewal still sells the first aid kit, for a handsome 35 Euros. Unfortunately for your project, the kit comes in a soft pouch.

Must also disagree with wwest's assertion.

The low mounting position of a fog lamp helps it do its job. But fog lights are also lensed differently and, more recently, often even use different light sources. In my Rangie, for example, the xenons are hopeless in fog, but the fog lamps are halogens and they help immensely. Likewise in snow. And especially at night. Front fog lamps are for seeing, not for being seen.

Regarding the original topic of this thread, personally I would never wire up a second fog lamp in my 996, specifically because of the risk of confusion with brake lights. With my Rovers, on the other hand, the rear fogs are in their own housings in the bumper. There's no risk of confusing them with brake lights and thus there are two. Just my .02.

My understanding is that an AT numbered engine had the crankcase replaced, whereas an X engine just had a top end rebuild and is considered by Porsche to be repaired rather than remanufactured.

At a minimum, this might help you narrow things down when you're Googling. My answer is just from memory, and I can't cite a source.

On mine, the trim panel that finishes off the console at the front, just ahead of the shifter boot, doesn't fit flush at the back. It leaves a little gap, which in my case is exaggerated by the fact that the trim panel isn't the same colour as the console.

Anybody else had this fit issue? And has anyone come up with a brilliant solution?

Thanks for reading,

Bruce

Hi. 'car pulls very slightly to the right. No odd tire wear. I guess I need a wheel alignment. Dealer wants $350.00. looking at the manuals, i see there are quite a few adjustment points and some of them may even need special tools ('not sure I see why though). Do I have any other choice? I'm in the NY/LI area.

For sure you do. You'd want someone local to make a recommendation, but there are lots of performance- oriented indie shops that do this kind of work. You're not stuck with your dealer for this.

I can assure you that it's illegal to produce anything with a Porsche logo on it, regardless of colour, without a license to do so. Products that bear an unlicensed logo are counterfeits, in the legal sense of the word. I'm going to guess that this is actually what made certain vendors uncomfortable talking to you.

Neither is more problematic than the other, and there's no significant difference in the cost of ownership between the two, assuming similar age and mileage. The engines are of the same design, and the all wheel drive system in the C4S is very simple and reliable.

Editorial comment: To me, the biggest meaningful difference between the two is looks. The C4S has the aggressive wide body that a lot of people prefer, and for many that's all it would take to tip the scale. But if you are one of the few that doesn't especially love the wide body, then I would lean toward the C2. You don't need AWD in LA, you get less power with the C2 but also less weight, and the lower resale values mean you might get a slightly newer or lower mileage car.

If you lust for that turbo look, then there's only one answer. If you don't, IMO there's no reason to pay for it.

Either way, good luck. You'll love it.

I don't get any hassles. Toronto is a big city, and my car is pretty plain to look at compared to a lot of 911s. But where I do get a regular pain in the butt? On expressways. My exhaust is a bit louder than stock, and passing someone on a multilane, even gradually and with no aggression at all, tends to make them unconsciously speed up when they hear it.

Took me forever to figure this out.

Just another point of view for consideration...

An aftermarket CAI is "worth it" for the sound, if you think the sound is worth it. No objective answer to that question.

A good aftermarket CAI, along with exhaust and a remap, will make horsepower, irrespective of the raging debates you sometimes read online. Car manufacturers do, in fact, leave power on the table in order to meet European noise laws, or to pass the EPA's urban drive cycle (the low hanging fruit of chip tuning power), to name just two examples of reasons why. There are dozens.

A properly maintained filter will not do any harm to your engine. I've been through this up, down and sideways, from oil analysis to peering regularly into my throttle body. Because of all the controversy about this, I wanted primary evidence. My conclusion: On the list of things that can harm your motor, a properly oiled cotton filter isn't very high.

Lastly, IMO, mass airflow sensors are consumable items. They last many years, but not forever.

FWIW.

Nice dogpile everybody has going here...

Your question was "are they reliable?" I don't think anybody knows, but I would bet they are not. You are asking the body shell to take stresses it wasn't designed for. Older 911s were beefy cars, but 996s and later are only strong where they need to be. That's why they're lighter. And it's why I wouldn't deviate from the basic design of the car where its structure is concerned. My .02.

Car and Driver recently reviewed summer max performance summer tires and they really liked the Hankook Ventus V12 EVO. Here is a link http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/compar...comparison_test

I need tires soon and I am seriously considering them. In my size they are less than half the price of PS2's.

RE 18" vs 19". I recently bought a 02 C2 Cab that has 19" Carrera 2 wheels with worn 235 35 19 and 295 30 19 Conti's front and rear. The car handles great on the street and the tires are quiet, vibration free, and track straight as an arrow at speed.

As a PCA member I asked the 996 specialist at PCA ,who has encyclopedic knowledge, about tire selection for the 19's on the car. He told me that 19's were not designed for the 996 and that they were all wrong for my car. 996 was designed for a 25" tire/wheel combo. Mine were 25.5" front 26" rear.

He said my speedo and odo would be reading lower than actual. In some cases ABS light could come on, gearing would be taller, aerodynamics would suffer, ride would be stiffer and on and on.

Well, after driving my car for a few months now under a variety of conditions with the right tire inflation pressures I can tell you that I do not have a problem with the ride, it handles as if on rails, and I think my car is quite quick and the gearing seems perfect to me.

Upgrading from 18's to 19's is done all the time usually for cosmetic reasons. I was going to switch back to 18's but decided I have no issues with my current set up, it was cost prohibitive, plus the 19"wheels look awesome.

I think your last statement about cosmetics is correct every time, and I'm glad for you that you're enjoying your setup. But the the warnings of your PCA friend are still pretty much on the money: 19s give back a bunch of performance in exchange for looks. They just do. It's a choice anybody is free to make, but they should make it based on good information, like you were able to do.

Just me, but I wouldn't go with a taller tire for autocross. You end up with slightly taller gearing. I know it's not much, but in my autocross days I would never have given up any acceleration out of turns.

Also, you describe yourself as a 'total novice'... if so, and I might get smacked down for saying this, I think I would leave the front/rear width proportions as they are until you have some track time under your belt. The tendency of the car to understeer under certain conditions can give you a margin of safety. And it's very easy to manage in these newer cars with the passive rear-steering property of the rear suspension. Altogether, it's a more manageable and predictable package to learn on, IMHO, before you start riffing on the OE setup. It's a lot harder to outdrive it than you might think.

You'll be a better driver in the long run, my .02.

I'm wondering where can you buy it? I can't find anything within Canada, it'll be great if you can hook me up. Price would be great. Thanks

You can buy at www.bumperplugs.com.

If you go that route, life will be a bit better if you have a friend in the US that can receive the package for you and then mail it on. Eric hates shipping to Canada and avoids it if he can. I've been extremely happy with the products I've bought from him, but you'd think I was asking him to ship to Antarctica.

If I were you, I'd actually try a dealer first. If you can give them a part number, a Canadian dealer will order anything you want. I think the part number for the silver hood crest is P 993 559 211 00 SILVER

Worth a shot, and you'll skip the Canada Customs screwing from UPS.

i

and i never ever buy or sell any wheels that have been redone. it's never the same as new. how do you think those rashes are treated? it's not magic. material is removed.

Should not be an issue with the twists. The only 'material' affected is the coating. I had all four of mine refinished. The process is not particularly invasive.