Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

mee

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    156

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mee

  1. mee
    I didn't have noise in my rear track rods before I replaced them. I replaced them with race ones from ERP ($$$). No noise in probably 3 years. Very solid parts. In any case, the Hardrace stuff (I've seen before on eBay) looks scary. I would not trust my life with them (welded ends, etc.). I'm not saying they are dangerous, but I have bent/broken a lot more serious/beefy/better-made parts. This is a seriously critical suspension component. One thing to also check is the control arm ball joint. That is a possible source of play. When I put in my ERP track rods, a lot of the factory rubber/isolation was gone, so a lot more vibration was transmitted. It would make sense that the aftermarket track rods would make whatever is causing the noise to be a lot more pronounced/louder since it is transmitting more vibration.
  2. mee
    I think your tire installer is giving you BS. I've run a whole range of tires on my Y2K Boxster S, but not the PS2s. With stock sizes, I have found the front tire pressures are laughably low and the rears about right or a hair high. I would try 34 all around and see how you like it. Then fine tune +/- 1-2 psi per your liking and tire wear. The ContiSports are absolute garbage. With the PS2s and the right tire pressures, you will feel like you have a new car.
  3. mee
    One thing I can tell you is after I had my aftermarket flywheel installed the transmission is noticably louder on acceleration and at idle. On the positive note the car appears to reach the higher RPM's faster. What clutch did you use? The OEM unsprung or an aftermarket sprung-hub clutch? I'm also wondering if the clutch in the OP was sprung or not. This could make a significant difference.
  4. mee
    Sounds like for most people, it's the headlight switch. I replaced my headlight switch a few months ago. No difference unless Sunset sold me a 'dud' switch. Any more ideas? Like a lot of others, it's both Litronics not firing. Going to high beams a few times usually does the trick, but this is pissing me off.
  5. mee
    Get a good flashlight and go look to see what you're doing. I just did mine, and did not have any problems, although it takes a lot of fighting to get it in/out since there is just no space. If you think about it, the bolts fit/lined up before, so the the new mount should similarly go back in. Some advice I learned part-way through the process is do NOT do the lower bolts until you get the upper bolts in. Good luck!
  6. mee
    There is a replacement thread here on RennTech to use an aftermarket LCD panel from eBay. I think the cost is around $70. 'BoxsterGirlie01' just replaced hers over on 6Speed and said it was easy.
  7. mee
    You don't need to remove the rear bumper to change what other folks call the muffler. The stock one will just *barely* clear. I have not used the Supersprint, but do a careful check to see what kind of clamps/hardware it uses. I would not recommend re-using the stock pipe clamps (reusing tubes OK). The bolts in them, more or less, press themselves into a metal holder, and they are a PITA to spread apart and even then are oval. It's just not worth the swearing. I get fresh ones from Sunset (cost +20%) for under $10 each. R/R the muffler goes so much smoother.
  8. mee
    Unlike most, I think the stock clutch is also kinda whimpy. I am looking at these: http://www.specclutch.com/ either 2+ or 3+.
  9. mee
    No "mesh sock" on my 2000 S. Maybe, that's a deprecated 2.5L thing. In any case, although the tube is cheap, it is a major PITA to replace. My original one did not fail. It just leaked. It is a pi$$-poor design. The newer version seemed to fit tighter at the fittings. I suspect there may even be newer versions than the one I put in a couple years ago. I replaced the spring clips with hose clamps.
  10. mee
    I thought all 3.6L were VarioCamPlus, so why not 3.8L? VarioCamPlus requires ME 7.8, no? I thought only the '03+ 986 were 7.8. The earlier ones were 7.2 (except 2.5L). I have a 2000 Boxster and am also following threads on this topic.
  11. mee
    Nah. It's not going to happen. As I noted, the Dansk pressed is only a teensy louder than stock. On my Remus, it got louder than when new, but it only took about 5 miles up to 50 miles max to settle in. Glad you like the look, though.
  12. mee
    I don't think you'll get gas economy out of anything. The GHL is good for light weight and performance, but you will get a lot of sound (and resonance)--too much for me. There aren't many (any) lightweight mufflers out there that will not increase resonance substantially. In order to get rid of the resonance, you seem to need a lot of baffles and pipes which means a "full-sized" muffler. Others that give you some sound and performance, but no significant weight savings (about 2lbs) include Dansk and Remus. The Dansk is definitely a "little" sound, barely more than stock. The Remus is a middle amount of sound and a little resonance that doesn't drone you out. The Porsche Sports Exhaust is not supposed to drone and has a nice sound, but it is very expensive (2X) and adds almost 10lbs. There are others like Ruf that are too expensive to have been reported on. Others like Borla are of the lightweight variety and have been reported to have too much resonance.
  13. mee
    You seriously have to define "best". There is no best. Do you mean best HP, best sound, best at resonance, best looks, best price? No muffler does it all. What are your criteria?
  14. mee
    FWIW, the original 986 eGas MAF (with a 986 part number) is also used on the 996 TT. When used with the later style MAF program (i.e. 2001), the original runs the engine richer. Good luck with your project (saw on 6Speed as well). (mee a.k.a. arenared)
  15. mee
    I found no difference between the two MAFs when used with the right programming. With the wrong programming, it was down on power, but I don't remember how much. With the wrong MAF, your A/F ratios will be all wonky.
  16. mee
    Great pics! Thanks.
  17. mee
    A couple of stupid questions if I may ;) * What should the LTFTs be and how much bank-to-bank difference is typical/allowed? I think somewhere it said 0.96 +/- 0.03. * What are the units of the durametric readings? Is 0.96 the same as -4%?
  18. mee
    Thanks, Loren. I did some digging in my files of interesting stuff that I run across, and it looks like the operation of the resonance flap is likely very highly engine/model-specific. I found, for the 987, that it is actuated above 4700 RPM for the 3.2L and above 5000 RPM for the 2.7L. This is quite different than the 3.4L Carrera (open only during a certain window) and likely different than the 987 3.4L and earlier 2.7L/3.2L 986es which is what I have (latter). Do you know if the problem above (original poster) might coincide with the transition from closed loop (using O2 sensor feedback) to WOT open loop fuel metering? This would make a lot of sense if this change occurred around 5K RPM and the MAF was gunked up, it would be running too lean-- although it is probably more complex involving load and other things telling the ECU when to switch.
  19. mee
    You don't have to drop the sub frame. There are "boomerang" shaped pieces. Remove the bolts in the ends and loosen the one in the middle. Then, it will pivot to where you can access the bushing mounts and drop the swaybar out. You will have to drop the swaybar to change the bushings. The bushings are very beefy, and I have not had any problems with my swaybar bushings (using GT3 or TRG bars), but I have had the bolts work loose. You could just check those, and if they are loose, I would recommend Loctite which is what I did to mine.
  20. mee
    Loren, how you know/find all this is amazing! Where can one find this information? Do you know if the 5120 RPM is the same or varies per engine 2.5/2.7/3.2? I would guess this question is just for the basic VarioCam since I think the VarioCam Plus (or some flavors of it) are continuously adjustable. Also, do you know what RPM the resonance/crossover tube operates? I read somewhere it was 4700 RPM (IIRC), but this could also be engine size/year specific.
  21. mee
    How flat is flat? I think these cars all have a flat spot right around 5K. This might be due to when the VarioCam changes. If you look at dyno charts of Boxsters, they all have a HP flat spot right about there. Now, if it's really getting worse, then I might suspect something, but it could just be that you're more sensitive after you've noticed it. Since yours is a 2.5L, it's not a sticking resonance valve which might be something in a later model
  22. mee
    For whatever it's worth, I use OEM rotors and Mintex Red Box. I've NEVER had a single peep from this combo (not true of other pads). I also took out any vibration pads and don't use any other goop, etc. Mine is a 986S.
  23. mee
    Depends on which 911 Cab, but with the extra weight, I don't think you'd be seeing much of a performance gain. I also think the Boxster is a better looking convertible even though some people think it is a chick car. If you don't care what other people think or need the extra seats, keep what you have and do some mods.
  24. mee
    Ditto. If you have a camera handy, please post a pic of the old/new side-by-side. Thanks!
  25. mee
    it's a definite no go In a nutshell, the caliper bolt spacing is different and not adaptable. So, you will have to change out the wheel carriers and a whole lot of other stuff--I think to the tune of $2K--not including labor or the brakes at which point you should just get the GT3 brakes. Now if you had PCCB, that would be a different story as far as fit, but then you wouldn't be asking to fit TT brakes. Recommendations really depend on why you want to upgrade.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.