Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by seventythree

  1. Tool Pants:

    Thanks, I found the answer after poking around on the Mobil1 web site.

    50% more SuperSyn.


    The following is from a similar discussion over on the Rennlist.com:

    >>I received a couple of responses on this, characteristic of which was

    this one from Steve Weiner at RennSport Systems. Since he replied to

    the public Racing list, I'm cross-posting his response here so you can

    also benefit from his input:

    -=-=-=-=-=-=-included bit-=-=-=-=-

    Be very careful about what you are buying; you do NOT want the Mobil 1,

    SM-rated 15w-50 stuff. That stuff lacks sufficient ZDDP to protect your


    Mobil has reformulated this product and has released a non EP 15w-50


    its undergoing testing to see what its ZDDP content is. Once thats


    I'll post that here.

    Oils have truly changed over the past 2 years. All the formulations


    been reconstituted to reduce ZDDP content to comply with the EPA laws

    that require extended cat life. This is NOT good for Porsche (or any

    other) engines over the long term and what was once OK, isn't anymore.

    Once things have settled a bit, I'll put some specific oil

    recommendations on my website.

    -=-=-=-=-=-=-end included bit-=-=-=- <<

  2. I've noticed lately on my 2000S that I get a reasonalby loud click when my driver's side window reaches full up or full down. It will do it when I do the one touch or hold the button all the way. It only happens on the first operation, then won't do it again for about five-ten minutes, for example, if I open the window and hear the click, then close and open it again, I don't get the click. I took the door panel apart but couldn't find anything out of place. Has anyone else seen this?

    I get the same exact noise on both sides of my 02. It is louder on the passenger side. So, I would like to know what the cause is as well.

  3. ...

    Think of the suspension as a system - the dampers have a sweet spot - the springs have a sweet spot. Mixing dampers and springs will bring different results. The overall result might be just fine however, you may find that the dampers do not 'control' the springs at the limits of compression/extension.

    See http://www.pca.org/panorama/sample_article_3.html

    ROW 030 is a system. The linked article -though it relates specifically to 996 - explains the integration and design of ROW030. The physics and modifications to the 996 and 986 suspensions is exactly the same. There is lots of other information at PCA.org on the subject as well as here and on PPBB.

    I've had ROW 030 since 2001 on my 1999 and after 50,000 miles (car has 62k), the suspension has settled-in nicely. Check PPBB archives for my many posts on the subject.


    I live in Los Angeles - our streets are in serious disrepair - ride is much firmer than stock. Some harshness is noticeable on rough surfaces but not enough to offset the benefits.

    ROW 030 is a must have if you seek a performance biased street Boxster. IMHO YMMV etc.

    Thanks for all the great insights, comments and suggestions! :D Excellent article - somehow I missed that one

    I was afraid to call the dealer to get an idea of installation cost, but did talk to two suspension shops in the area (Bagge in Culver City and Johnson Alignment in Torrance). Both looked up the book cost for the install and alignment, each said they could do it faster, and both said it would be a little over $600 including alignment. The most interesting comment from each was that they had more experience removing sport suspension setups than installing them, because most people find them too low and stiff for driving around here. The boss at Johnson recommended the Bilstein HD shocks instead of the stock Porsche ROW M030 ones. So far, that sounds like the most reasonable change from the stock Porsche ROW M030 setup I've heard.

    LemmyCaution - I know the streets around PdR are really bad (and getting worse!). How often do you bottom out on speed bumps, driveways, etc., and how much more noticeably harsher is the ride, compared to the stock suspension?

    Based on everyone's comments, it sounds like the ROW M030 setup is worthwhile for driving, but for housewives that bought a Boxster as a fashion accessory, it's way too much.

    If that is Steve Alercon's shop in torrance you are talking about, do what he says. He it the PCA/POC suspension guru widely recognized everywhere. He is a big time racer as well, which gives him hands-on insight to what setup he recommends. As far as personal experience, I have had my Carrera and 914 aligned by him. The difference, on Streets of Willow, was very noticeable and well worth it.

  4. Ok, before I pull the trigger, let me state the question in no uncertain terms.

    On my 02 Boxster base with factory 17" wheels, can I just upsize the fronts to 225/45-17 and leave the rears at 255/40-17 without any ill effects? If not, what sizes other than stock would be acceptable.

    Please elaborate on any sited ill effects.


  5. whatever brand you get, 225/45/17 will reduce understeer, it is the recommended non-OEM size



    Looks like Nexen doesn't make a size 205/50-17 to go on the front of my 02 Boxster base. What would be better alternative, 215/45-17 or 225/45-17? Or should I stick with the stock size and pick a different brand of tire?

    Exactly to the point. Is a Boxster more likely to over- or understeer? In my short ownership experience, I have noticed a tendency to oversteer in turns, under aggressive power application. But that is different than properly setting up to enter and exit a turn at the highest speed.

    Also, if it turns out that a Boxster would benefit from more tire meat in the front, would 225's fit ok on stock 17" rims?


  6. Looks like Nexen doesn't make a size 205/50-17 to go on the front of my 02 Boxster base. What would be a better alternative, 215/45-17 or 225/45-17? Or should I stick with the stock size and pick a different brand of tire?

  7. I have a WD policy on my '02 911.

    I had my car in for a new clutch, they paid for a new flywheel and labor when my mechanic found issues with the flywheel. Took some work on behalf of the shop to convince them the flywheel is a part of the engine, bottom line they paid. Saved me >$2k, although they wouldn't pay the shop's full service rate the difference amounted to $3-400.

    Which coverage plan do you have?


  8. Oh, and a good rule of thumb is that any special offer that is only good till tomorrow probably isn't a good offer. If it is a good deal, it sells without the pressure tactics.

    Once again, I agree. I have been burnt on bogus warranties in the past and hated it every time. But just to keep the discussion factual:

    My car, being a 2002, currently qualifies for the lower tier pricing because it's considered 4 or less model years old and has less than 50K miles. Once we roll into 2007, it will be considered as being 5 MYs old and no longer qualify.

  9. Some additional info:

    - The warranty plan is for 4 years from the date of purchase or 75,000 miles total, whichever comes first. The current mileage is 21,000.

    - As far as service records, all that has been done so far is 3 oil changes, and a new battery from Porsche. It still has the original continental tires from the factory.

    - At the time of purchase, the PO took the car to a reputable independent Porsche service center and paid for air and cabin filter changes. He also picked up the tab for the PPI. I went there while the car was still on the lift and the shop owner personally reviewed the entire car, over and under, with me. They also hooked up the PST2 and read the fault code history and the log for STRESS incidents. Stress incidents were at ZERO. Just to put thing is perspective, he said that they typically see 3 figures. He also said that a 911 twin turbo they had recently inspected had over 4000 incidents logged.

    - The only issue he pointed out was minute oil seepage from the engine tranny interface and the right side of the engine, which he thought was no more significant than what they see on all Boxsters.

    This car is in as new condition. If money wasn't a little tight at the moment, I would have bought the warranty as extra insurance. I am paying quite a bit more for comprehensive coverage as opposed to carrying just liability!

    Well, I guess I have one more month to decide. :(

  10. You should buy the warranty if ....

    You are absolutely certain to keep the car through the warranty period (no accidents, no family change, no relocations, etc).

    You value certainty more than money.

    You understand exactly what is covered and what isn't.

    When you buy a warranty, you are paying for the expected cost of repairs plus selling and administrative expenses of both the seller and the warranty provider. That means that of the $1850 you would pay the warranty provider, probably half of that is what they expect to pay out in claims (on average, your experience could be different)

    Over a lifetime, the odds of your coming out ahead by not buying a warranty are vastly in your favor. Take the $$ and invest it in a liquid account that can be used to pay for any repairs. And under that scenario, you could still be liable for a total engine replacement or trans rebuild...but the odds are slim.

    I had a choice of paying $3k less for my car or taking a 3 year warranty that was transferable and paying $3k more (seller of the car could get a refund). I choose the risk and in 2.5 years on a '01 with 43k when I bought it, I've paid out about $180 that a warrant would have covered.

    Applying this same logic to lawnmowers, stereos, etc over a lifetime, I'm probably $30k ahead. I only insure against things that I absolutely can't afford to pay for myself (car, house, life). And even life insurance I reduce as I age and my potential-widow would need less to live on. I'd rather us enjoy the $ now.

    RMS isn't the worst thing that can happen (death and taxes rank as far more impactful) as, after all, it is only an oil leak and you have 9.5 quarts in the tank.



    I agree with your perspective on extended warranties wholeheartedly; hence my statement in the original post, "- Generally speaking, I do not believe in extended warranties."

    However, with the most recent quote of $1,350 for MajorCare MBI over 4years/75,000 miles, that's roughly $1 a day for peace of mind. Given that exact figure, is that a good deal? I do agree that based on averages I will do better on my own. But, is a Boxster an average car to maintain? I am new to Boxsters and thought I should ask before making a decision, one way or the other. BTW, the warranty cost will just about double comes January 1st.


  11. I have an 02 Boxster with 20K miles. I just got a quote from Warranty Direct for their basic coverage of 4 years/100KM, for ~$1850 with a $100 deductable. This is not their bumper-to-bumper plan!

    - I am mainly concerned with major engine/transmission failures in the future.

    - I have until year end 2006 to purchase this warranty.

    - I plan on doing all my own maintenance, and I am as good a DIY mechanic as can be reasonably expected (successful engine/tranny rebuilds under my belt). Is DIY a problem with extended warranty companies?

    - Generally speaking, I do not believe in extended warranties.

    - At this moment, money is tight but available.

    - But, this is a Boxster with potential for RMS leaks and engine replacements!

    Any caveats I should take into consideration prior to purchasing the extended warranty? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.


  12. ahhh now I can see the light...clairty has come!

    So I wasn't really wasn't that confused. I was looking to the black box for my problem/solution from that other post I referenced. Nobody really explained to me what the failure trend was with the cable so I figured the bushing was the problem to solve.

    Will it be obvious to see frayed or damaged cable?

    I"m going to pull this all apart after dinner for a look before ordering the part.

    you will probably be able to see the frayed part of the cable, buy maybe not. if you can see it, it will be at one of the areas where the cable enters its protective sleeve. good luck!

    I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I have a question for insite.

    I recently bought a mint 02 Boxster with 20KM. It is absolutely in as new condition with very little use. However, ever since I got it, I have noticed a snapping sound in the passenger side window when it reached either limit. If I don't actuate the window for some time, anything longer that an hour, then it makes the sound when it reaches the top or bottom limit. Then it won't make the sound upon further cycling until it remain idle for some time again.

    Can you think of what might be the cause of this? Should I get in there and investigate?


  13. I think I've finally got my brake issues about straightened out. I took the car to the dealership to have the master cylinder replaced, and after three tries (long story), they finally got the brakes back to hard. However, the pedal seems to have more travel before the brakes engage than it used to.

    Does anyone have factory specs on brake pedal travel? How do you adjust the travel? Is this something the dealership should have done when they replaced the MC?

    Can you tell us how you got a soft pedal to begin with? Was it the result of any caliper work, or pad replacement?

  14. If you are getting an over the shoulder rattle, which becomes worse when the top is down, lubricate the door latch mechanisms.

    The sure sign for this problem is that the rattle gets worse when you put the top down, and the side window not being at the top position makes it even more pronounced.

    This rattle is very misleading in that one could swear that it is coming from inside the door.

    To fix it, do the following:

    1) Using a clean rag, clean up the door latch mechanism the best you can.

    2) Using a Q-tip, lightly apply Lithium based white grease all over the latch mechanism.

    3) Drive and enjoy!

    I have a feeling that the above steps will have to be repeated every now and then. So, applying too much grease will make the following clean up step messier.


  15. Hi Mick,

    Can you elaborate on what you mean exactly by "door latch", and how you go about lubricating it? What lubricant?

    I ask because, in some other posts people are refering to the door release handle by using the "door latch" phrase.


    EDIT: Looks like you were posting your solution while I was writing this! :D

    Hi John,

    Noticing the lack of response (guess nobody knows!), are you pretty certain of the source? I know for me the rattles never end up coming from where I thought.

    I sometimes do get a rattle coming from over my left shoulder. Turned out to be the need for lubricant on the door latch mechanism. It sure didn't sound like that would be it, but another thread led me there (long time ago) and in desperation I tried it and eureka, no more rattle/squeak -- until it needs another shot!

    Thought I'd throw that out just in case...

    By the way, yours is a beautiful Speed Yellow Boxster -- saw it (but not you) at BMWCCA's last event at Ripken.

    Thanks, Mick.

    Yes, I didn't have much time to stick around. I layed out the course, made sure people weren't going to kill themselves on it, drove, and got out of there. :)

    I did successfully fix the squeak. It hasn't returned. I would have never guessed the shock mounts would make that noise, but I had checked everything else - door latches, all the top joints, the clamshell sliders, the tensioning cables, swaybar frame bushings and endlinks... I even stripped the entire trunk looking for the noise! Yes, I have problems. <_<

    Now if only I could find a reasonbly priced set of 18" wheels I'd be all set for next season! :P

  16. I am referring to the pair of cables that hold down the back part of the soft top while in the up position. These have sockets on each end that pop onto ball joints.

    There is an article saying that if these cables aren't tensioned properly, a "loose change" sound can be heard from behind the drivers shoulder.

    Is the "loose change" sound caused by this heard with the top up, down, or both? Just how tight should one set the tension? With the top up, I can fold the seat backs forward, reach through the roll hoops, and feel the tension in these cables. I currently have about 1/8" slack or play in the cables. Am I supposed to turn the adjustment screws (clockwise?) until all of the play is gone?

    My problem is that I hear the loose change sound with the top in the up or down position. It kind of feels like it is coming from inside the driver's door, but I really don't want to be reinventing the wheel here. If the cables are supposed to be tight, I will try that first.


    PS, if this turns out not to be related to any adjustments, what are all the lubrications points?

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.