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demosan

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Everything posted by demosan

  1. Only concern I would have if I have the story and time line correct from your posts is the car needing a second RMS replaccement when they should have used the "new and improved" seal the first time they replaced back at 30K service. To say a swcond one is needed now with o nly 4k more miles ( even with a CPO) could be a problem when you try and sell it as you reference in few years. On the other hand, this will give you lots of leverage to work the price hard if you are hard-over to buy this car. If you go for the car, see if you can get some more time added to the CPO and again work that price down to low $50's. Good luck!! demosan :cheers:
  2. Not sure how many miles are on your car, but it sounds as if it possibly could be one of the the idler pulley (s) or tensioner pulley. Have you replaced and when?? I think it is a part of the 60K maintenence schedule ( I'm sure the belt is, not sure of idler pulley(s)??). If it happens with the AC off, switch on and see if the noise is still present or does it disappear as the idle speed will change slightly. This would give also point to one of the the ider pulley or tensioner pulley beginning to show excessive wear. There are two idlers and one tensioner pulley as I recall. Cost is about $70 for upper idelr and ~$85 for the lower idler and tensioner pulley. Good luck!! Demosan
  3. jsoto, Use Chevron, has one of the best additives for keeping fuel system clean with techron .I don't have any association with CHEVRON, but have never had a fuel problem with their gas ever in any car I drive. here in california I undersatand they use only their refined fuel vs the independents who buy their fuel from the "less expensive" source. demosan
  4. Welcome and nice looking porsche!! How about options in your car?? I am partial to C4S 's !! I'm sure you will find this forum invaluable in your Pcar owning experience. :cheers: Demosan :cheers:
  5. THe part you reference is part of the oil separator circuit and if you had an annual with spark plug replacement, then getting to the bellows ( $15 part here in US) not tha tdifficult. It does require some removal of some parts like airbox to make access easier. Loren or another Porsche tech could give more specific time to replace bellows. If you do a search for Oil Separator Bellows you should find more info as well. Demosan :cheers:
  6. vick57, +1 on Loren's comments on his blog!! Well worth the read and I share his sensiments!! Demosan ....if something is too good to be true it probably is............ WITHOUT STATISTICALLY CONCLUSIVE FACTS :soapbox:
  7. Kevin, I have a 02 C4S with the techncs package. It includes the up-graded Bose stereo as well as the 6 CD changer, Bi-Xenon package and headlight washers. Not sure about design package. HEre is the My 02 ordering guide with pricing that you may find helpful. 2002porsche_ordering_guide.pdf Good luck with your search!! demosan :cheers:
  8. ViolaGT3, Based on your description of the body shop using self-tapping screws I share your concern for future possible corrosin/rusting. DId the shop tell you if they used a silicone like sealer on the threads of the the screws before assembly?? Are the screws stainless steel?? If the answer is no to both questions, then you could request they reinstall the srews with the silicone sealer and that should help prevent future problems, although I don't understand why they wouldn't have used the clips or adhesive tape I understand Porsche recooends for the installation if they are a "high-end" shop. Good luck!! Demosan :cheers:
  9. Kevin, I agree with pretty much all that Danyol mentions in his response. I bought my 02 C4S 18 months ago and I took 3 months to find the "right" car for me, i.e. low miles, Bi-xenon headlights etc. As others have mentioned, there are lots for sale out there these days and insist upon a PPI with leakdown test. Will cost you around $300, but well worth the cost in determining if there are any obvious issues needing attention. As far as your specific questions, I would suggest that any car with 40-45K miles would have already had an RMS replacement if the motor required it. As far as clutch life, it is largely determined by driving habits of previous owner(s). I'm sure you have read there are folks who have gotten over 100K miles out of first clutch and others who have had to replace in far less because of auto X or aggresive DE events or just plain old abuse. If this is your first Pcar, the 02C4S will be a great car for you as it comes with the upgraded suspension and appointed interior, however I wanted the BiXenon package and dimming mirros which are elements of the Technics package. Even sound system upgrade is marginal ( Bose and CD stacker) so be prepared for some disappointment here. Given my own paranoia in reading many posts in this forum dealing with the issues of RMS and intermediate shaft failures. I searched for a car with an extended warranty. This is a personal preference, but gives you a "piece of mind" for some time while you introduce yourself to the car. Lastly, and most important, my car has been a real blast!! Bought with low miles and took it easy for first three months and now use the car as nearly my DD and smile everytime I get into the car for a run. They are great cars and the widebody is as asthetically appealing to me as any model Porsche has ever produced IMHO!! Good luck with your search and take your time!! Lots of great cars out there ( including those in this forum selling their cars looking to upgrade to newer models). :cheers: demosan
  10. on DRIVE LINKS panel says that i can reset some thinks with the engine running but it is very complicated . Does this function of the software works on my model and what functions can i regulate with this? thanks michael Michael, I would call Durametric and I'm sure they can step you through the diagnostic steps using the drive links function. I have the Durametric myself, but have not had to use this function ( yet!!). Demosan
  11. contact BT, Short answer is the larger rear tires ( lower profile) are to provide a larger patch ( traction) in the rear to compensate for the heavier weight distribution being in the rear of a rear engine porsche. The rolling diameter of the front and rear tires are the same. Demosan Sorry, but the "rolling diameter" is NOT the same. The diameter of the rear's are about 1/2 inch shorter. Check your own car using a level and measure to the pavement from the top of the tire. With the same diameter rims, which is OEM, it stands to be logical that the front's with a "/40" vs "/30" wall height would higher. I am not interesed in changing the rims since I do not intend to change tire width, but am wondering why the front's would be designed to us a higher wall, hence larger diameter? BT, You are correct that there may be a slight difference in "rolling diameter" in some of the standard factory fitments of tires, although the difference is not as significant as you think as the sidewall height is theortically calculated by the product of width and aspect ratio. For example, for my C4S, the standard tires are 295 x30 rears and 225 x40 fronts (18's both axles). The sidewall height of the fronts would be calculated as 225x.40 or 90mm. Rears sidewall height would be 295 x 30 or 88.5mm. SO you are correct there is a difference of 1.5mm, which is within the guidelines of being with 1-2% of theortical to ensure the AWD performance of the drivetrain is not compromised. I am not trying to sell myself as a tire fitment expert here as I had some of the same questions when I replaced the tires recently on my C4S. If you go to the tirerack.com website, there are several articles dealing with Pcar fitement issues that you may find helpful. Regards, demosan :cheers:
  12. contact BT, Short answer is the larger rear tires ( lower profile) are to provide a larger patch ( traction) in the rear to compensate for the heavier weight distribution being in the rear of a rear engine porsche. The rolling diameter of the front and rear tires are the same. Demosan
  13. BB, Where in SOCAL are you and what was the fault code you saw with your Durametric tool?? I have cleared my AIRBAG light many times with my durametric?? Demosan
  14. Soutahc4s, I also have a MY o2 C4S and I just recently replaced my P-Zero Assymmetrico's ( that were extremely noisy) with Kuhmo SPT's. I do not track the car either and I am sure I will get flamed by some here as the kuhmo's aren't approved by Porsche and don't carry the N-spec designation. However, when I researched others choices and recommendations on this site, several recommendations came back with the Kuhmo's and they were half the price of the Pirelli's. Wear rating of Kuhmo's is also nearly double that of the P-Zero's ( 340 vs 180). They are also very quiet and have been good in the rain. My $.02!! demosan OBTW, you can get them at Dicount tire for about $800 drive away price with roadside hazzard included. :cheers:
  15. James, It should be easy to see in your coolant reservoir as to whether the coolant is low as a result of possible leaking. There is a "full mark" on your coolant tank for cold and hot. If you do have a leak in tank, it may be a small one if your tank has already been replaced recently, although there is no guarantee of this. Best indicator would be checking level in tank. On the other hand, if the leak is brake fluid, then you should see an indicator light soon informing you blake fluid is low. Get the car checked ASAP as either leak could be problematic if it isn't diagnosed and repaired soon. Demosan
  16. James, SOunds to me to be a leak from the coolant reservoir tank which is located on the passenger side in the engine compartent. DO a search and you will see it is a common problem and probably requires replacing the tank. How do you know the leak is brake fluid vs coolant?? Easy check for tank is to see if tank is low or have your garage pressure test the system and that will confirm coolant leak and location. demosan
  17. billyc, I also bought a car with an extended warraty from Fidelity that was transferred to me upon purchase. I haven't had to use it as of yet and it expires 01/08. My P is a 02 with only 29K miles and I am interested in renewing for a few more years. Was your 2 year warranty on your 03 expensive to purchase?? It will give me a benchamark to use in my dicsussions with Fidelity. Good luck with your problem and I agree with others, it sounds more like an ignition problem rather than a intermediate shaft failure which as you know creates a total engine failure immediately after failure and takes the motor with it.... I'll be curious as to how Fidelity handles your situation and best of luck!! :cheers: demosan
  18. OE, ra Thanks for the response and I have (since sending my note) essentially stumbled into following the same steps you have suggested. As a result, I have removed the alarm/sunsensor plate after removing the 2 torx screws, but am still having a tough time routing the GPS antenna cable to the dash TP location. I have also "popped" the defrost vent on the drivers side close to the GPS antenna mounting location as you suggested hoping that would make the GPS cable routing easier but still have not been sucessful with getting the cable routed to radio location. I am using a soft wire for trying to find a routing path as you suggested with no luck. Now that you have confirmed I am on the right path I will continue with this approach. It appears my 02 C4S coupe is a bit more difficult than the the cab installation as all the service bulletins I have read only reference boxer installations. Oh well, no one said this would be easy!! Thanks again for your help!! coat hanger wire is pretty stiff, and you need to be able to jam it down behind the defroster ducts. I would assume that you have the radio and the A/C controls out so you have a big hole to work with. Just push the coat hanger guide wire down through the hole under the sunsensor plate and look for it below. It will tend to want to go behind the defroster duct work, which is ok because you can get at it from a little lower down. Once you see it below, tape the GPS antenna cable to the topside wire, and pull it through. It is a tight fit, but you can pull it through. OE, Thanks for your advise and I had the ATC control out as well as everything else but the fresh air dash vents ( above the ATC controls). WHen I removed that, the routing is really easy as you can see the opening by the GPS mounting plate. Installation complete and the functionality of the Traffic Pro is really slick for a single DIN GPS and the clean lines of my dash are maintained. Thanks for your help as well as BigSquid and first DYI project completed for me!! :thumbup: I'm installing a Sirius satellite antenna in that location and I'm having a heck of a time routing the cable. Any other suggestions besides what has been posted? How do you remove you fresh air dash vents? I believe if I remove the vents, I should have better access as well. Thanks, PorscheWash PW, I had a tough time routing the GPS cable to the head unit so I removed the "horse-shoe" center vent trim from from the dash and then it was very easy to route the cable through the dash to the trafficpro in my case. T Oremove the horseshoe, I used a plastic narrow putty knife and gently "popped" it out as it is only held in place with plastic tabs that are held into metal clips in the dash opening. You can use some masking tape around the horseshoe trim to prevent any scatching of the dash, although it isn't that tough to remove. Good luck with your project!! demosan :cheers:
  19. dr, I had the same concern when I first got my 02C4S and I stalled it a few times inching it into its garage stall. I aslo have a Saab Aero with standard and that cluth seems more forgiving. Once I got used to the Pcar clutch it has been fine and no more stalls and I can launch at low RPM's with no problem on the flat or hills. On the other hand, with 49K miles it could be getting close to a new clutch if the previous owners abused it in any way. Do you have any service records as part of your sale?? Good luck with the car and hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine!! :cheers: demosan
  20. Not sure how long you have had this car and if this is your first "winter" with the car, however, I believe this is normal as I have the same shifting issues when the temp is cool even here in San Diego. If the shifting becomes more normal when the car warms up after driving a few miles, I wouldn't worry about it. Good luck with the car!! dmosan
  21. I also have a 02 C4S and as others have described, I also start and drive away with no real "warm-up" . Keep RPM's below 3,500 until engine shows up to temp. Never have had a seal leak or similar problem ( :) ) with my car using this method. demosan
  22. I haven't had to replace mine yet on my 02C4S, but in reading many posts on the subject of clutch replacement it costs around $1100 for the complete clutch job, i.e. parts and labor. Parts are around 4-500 including pressure plate, clutch disk, and throw-out bearing. Labor around $600. If you need to replace flywheel, that runs another $1,000. Others who have recently treplaced theirs can quote you precise $$'s. Demosan
  23. AW, Good job!! Sounds like you have the problem solved and have avoided the OPC route tha twould have costs you a lot more than a spray can of contact cleaner!! Demosan :cheers:
  24. AW, If the light switch appears OK, then remove the headlight assy that appears to be intermittent and apply contact cleaner to the contacts and reinstall. DO you have halogen headlamps or xenon's?? xenon's?? Good luck!! Demosan B)
  25. Not sure if you have stock rims on your C2 or not, however I have a 02 C4S with the 11 inch rims in rear and run the 295-30-18's which are stock on the wide body's. Unless you have 11 inch rims ( with the appropriate spacers) I do not think you can run the 295 widths on your C2 with stock rims. Demosan
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