demosan

First one at 27, second one at 42, third one at 61..................

I have a 1999 996 6 speed manual and continue to get the CEL with code P1124. Anybody have any ideas? Thank you in advance.

My recollection is tha tcode is for lean fuel/air mixture. Therefore, see if you have any obvious air leaks in air intake. Check to see if gas cap sea lis damaged/leaking as well.

Lastly, if you "google" the P1124 code you will probably find some more ideas as well. Good luck with it!! Demosan :cheers:

Hi all...

I have a 2002 C2 996 Trip car, that I am looking to revitalise in the power department.

I would really like a turbo car (996 manual) but given the cost difference here in Australia between my cars value and what I can have to pay for a suitable turbo car, its making financial sense to retro fit a turbo engine to my car.

I understand that the MY02 trip transmission is the same unit as fitted to the 996 turbo models, so I figure that the gearbox and balance of driveline should be retained. Essentially giving me a 2WD Turbo Auto which could be fun :-)

Apart from the addition of the complete turbocharged engine assembly and the third radiator I cant see much in it.

The advantage I think is that I would have a rebuilt engine installed versus the 57,000 km orginal engine.

What do you guys think of the idea?

Do you think this is a logical choice?

Am I going to bastardise the car and have resale value issues? (I would retain the original engine assembly ideally)

I dont really want to turbocharge the existing engine as the rebuild and the kit pretty much just equates to a factory spec turbo motor I think.

Thanks in advance for any pearls of wisdom or flames thrown at the idea.

As the previous poster states, there is more to a turbo than just the motor differences. If you ever have any tendencies to track the car ( even auto-X's) the turbo has wider wheels and the beffier brakes and wider rear axle that would put you at a disadvantage when competing with other factory turbo's. Most important to me would be the factory turbo has a better engineered oil sump and is also less prone to IMS problems. If you wetre here in the states it would be a "no-brainer" to wait for a factory turbo to come up on the sales block. In Australia much more difficult........................... Good Luck in whatever you choose to do!! Demosan My $.02 :cheers:

Just thought I would share. My wife and are are going on a 7 day road trip starting 6/20/11 in the Pcar. The car's getting a fresh oil service Monday, just got the new custom interior installed, new regulator installed, and fresh detail today. We are going without any real plans, going to do alot of hiking, camping, driving without any firmly set destination. We are going West until we run out of time, then coming back.

Our direction will be across Texas, stopping at anything interesting, Tuscon, AZ, Tombstone, AZ, maybe California, Grand Canyon, and Route 66 all the way back to Amarillo (eat at the 72oz steak house), then back down Dallas, Tyler, then back towards the Louisiana border behind the Green Pine curtain in southeast Texas.

Anyone who would like to meet up or share something interesting/worth seeing are more than welcome.

5 states, approx 4K miles, with no time schedule should be fun!!

Good luck wqith the trip and will be anxious to hear how it went once you get back to TX. make sure that AC is in working order as you will be in some real HOT territory!!

Demosan :cheers:

I have a 1999 Carrera 4 and need to replace my rear tires. I'm currently running Continental Contisport Contact 2's, 225-40-18 in front and 285-30-18 in the rear. Since my front tires are at about 50% and the Contisport Contact 2's are discontinued the Tire Rack recommended the Extreme Contact DW tire. The 285-30-18 tire has been on back order for several months now but the 285-35-18 is available. Is this a good choice for me or should I wait longer? I am at the wear bars on the insides of my rear tires and fear that I'm going to get into trouble on a wet day.

Thanks for your time, Jerry

Jerry,

Given your car is a C4, having the right size tires is important than a 2WD Carrera. I'm not a tire expert, but if you were to use the 30 profile vs the 35 the difference in revolutions per mile is 836 vs 805 or 3.5%. In order NOT to stress the viscous coupling in your 4WD Carrera, it is advisable to have the MAX difference to be 2%. Therefore, you could be asking for trouble. You mention the front being 50% worn so you might "sneak by the 2% guideline", but if you drive the car in the winter in snow and need the 4WD system to be in good working order I would not take the chance. Demosan

2006 996 C2 Cab 6spd.

As with several others on this forum my driver side window regulator cable was stretched causing my window not to lower during the window lowering function cycle, causing the glass to hit the roof when the door was shut. I was manually lowering the glass about ½ inch each time prior to shutting the door.

I replaced my window regulator and followed the provided window adjustment procedure. Everything appears to function properly except the window lowering function travel is only 4mm causing the glass to still hit the roof when the door is shut. I tried to retrain the window but noticed no change. I took some measurements I thought might help explain:

When I open the driver door with the interior or exterior handle the glass only travels down 4mm in either case (passenger side is 13mm). With the door closed the roof overlaps the glass by 5mm (passenger side is 4-8mm). When I raise the glass with the door open I get 15mm of upward travel upon closing the door; this seams to work properly (passenger side is 13mm).

If I lower the glass any further I am afraid water will get in. I searched the site for any other adjustment procedures but could not find anything.

Is there a way to adjust the window lowering function? Why would it be 4mm when using the door handles and 13mm with the door open? Any help would be greatly appreciated…

I believe you need to adjust the microswitch in the door that controls the amount ofglass travel for opening before the door is actually opened. In your car it appears the microswitch has moved on the drivers door causing your problem with incorrect travel. Good Luck!! Demosan

Can anyone direct me where to download a copy of the Owners Manual for the '02 996?

I had one but lost it in a computer crash.

Thanks

jpowers, as a contributing member of this forum ( which you apprently are) you can access the manual in the "Documents Menu" portion of this site provided by Loren.

Good Luck!! Demosan

I want to upgrade my rear bumper to the oem turbo one. My question is does the heat shield from my oem 2002 c2 bumper fit the turbo bumper Or do i have to buy a new one?

clboo99, I'm not sure about the heat shield issue, but in order to the rear bumper t ofit from the turbo/C4S, it needs to be narrowed to fit the C2 narrow body configuration. Do a searchand you'll see others have done this retrofit with lots of effort and $$'s involved. It is not simple "bolt-in" replacement for sure. I have a C4S and I believe my rear bumper faciais about 2.5 inches wider than the C2 facia. Good Luck!! Demosan

:cheers:

new timing belt would be the big issue, also possibly a new water pump. I got into the habit of changing the fan belt at every major service on my old SC, which I did every 15k, or every 3rd oil change. Obsessive compulsive, yes, but it was not a big deal. I did a new timing belt on the 996 at 30k, and would not want to go beyond 15k intervals.

judgejon, I think you mean the serpentine belt, not timing belt in your note?? There is no timing belt but as you know, rather a timing chain ( with tensioners internal)..

demosan

Ok, I need some advice. My climate control is now on the fritz. Never had a problem, but now it has a few segments missing from the temperature (which when you drop or raise the temp, the segments that were missing come back on and new ones go out, "73"a shows great "71 missing the "7", and 70 missing a few in the zero). I believe that maybe this was the LCD, so not too big of a deal although I'm not sure why them go on and off.

The bigger issue that I'm concerned about is when changing the temperature down the climate control display goes 73,72,71,70,69,68,86,85,84,83...62..Lo

When raising it up it goes 79,80,61,62,63...Hi.

The temperature works as it should even though the display is not reading right, for ex I will put it on 67 and it will show 85 but be full AC blast as it should.

I been in talks with modulemaster services (that sell the LCD rebuild), and they advised I should ask on the forums to see if anyone else might have had the same problem as they couldn't guarantee it was an LCD issue. They seemed friendly, and said they would do a rebuild and if it didn't work I would only be out Postage each way however I want to make sure this is a LCD issue and not a software problem before shelling out over $100.

I've never had a problem before the other night when it did get some mist on the front of the unit (not much and was wiped up promptly). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My Module number is:

996 653 101 09 FFA

B.H. TC 5HB 008 247-01

Comes out of a 2002 C2 Cab

TCS85, Not sure if you have replaced the headunit with any non-OEM replacement , however I would suggest you remove headunit and get to ATC connectors and see if any of them are loose. I have never experienced the problem as you describe it, but when I installed a Nav System to replace my stock head-unit I remmber having some problems with getting the connectors to seat and lock in the new headunit. The ATC connectors are of the same design and again possibly could have worked loose.

Good Luck!! :cheers: Demosan

996 01 C4 6sp Cab 77500 miles

Hi guys, it's been a while.

Well after it's winter hibernation I decided to take out my 996

from storage to go for a drive in the better weather.

Upon starting the engine I heard a loud Screeching Sound for like 2 seconds?

I assume it's the starter motor? It was intermitted but now happens every time I start the engine not cool if theres on lookers!

1. Does the starter normally make this type of sound when it's on it's last legs?

2. It's only when starting the car ?

3. Is it a big job to replace a starter motor with a new one?

4.Will Durametric software give any codes for a bad starter motor

(which codes to look for)?

5. Is it bad for the car, as it sounds pretty nasty on start up, even though it for 2 seconds?

Any thoughts much appreciate

Many thanks

James

James,

Another possibility beyond the starter would be the belt tensioners could be worn and beginning to go bad, especially after the long winter layoff and if they are originals.. Easy way to diagnose would be to remove serpentine belt and start car for a few seconds and see if the noise is present. If not, it could be the tensioner or idler pulleys.

Good luck with the diagnosis!! Demosan :cheers:

I was hoping to hear from Loren on this...

I've never taken the bumper off so I don't know if this is an area where you would have to apply pressure of any kind?!

Yes, the gap is still off, they just left it.

I have taken my front bumper off several times to clean radiators of debris and there is no need to pry the bumper with any tool in that area if the bumper is removed with all the screws removed appropriately. The service tech may have missed the hoardware near the side marker lights and then tried to "pry" the bumper off??

Was this a Porsche dealer or independent repair shop that did the work for you?? You mentioned talking to a VW service advisor so I am curious as to who did the work??

Good Luck with your second round with the service folks!! That clearly is no rock chip!! Demosan :cheers:

Happy to report that my post-purchase inspection went well, no concerning issues. Really happy about that.

Question: there is a small pointy object in the right air intake. Could it be a ?radar detector? I can snap a picture of it if that helps.

The car is amazing, fits like a glove and handles well. Definitely happy about the decision.

Cheers.

It is the outside air temp sensor. Enjoy your new car and drive it like you stole it!!

Demosan :cheers:

I replaced mine at 42k miles. There were no driving issues noted at the time, but the cracked bushing was noted when doing the RMS and clutch so I replaced it as a preventive measure.

tanny02996,

Thanks for the response on your milage re: your coupling replacement. I just turned 40K so I'll definitely check it out at next oil change.

Demosan

Ouch! Thanks, looks like I have no other alternatives!

I have a 02 C4S as well and was wondering how many miles on your car ?? I will have to check the shaft on my car once I am under it again for an oil change. Were there any symptoms of the shaft being bad in your case before you visually saw the deteriration of the coupling??

TIA demosan

How is this one I found on cars.com? The mileage is a little high. The free Carfax shows quite a bit of service to fix issues. Does that indicate this is a problem car? Car seems to be in decent condition. I called the selling dealer. It is a custom trade in for a new Toyota. Did the Porsche owner get fed up and traded it in for a Toyota? LOL

http://www.cars.com/...05&aff=national

To me the service history looks OK as most of the service events were scheduled maint. and done at a Porsche dealer. On the other hand, the car to me looks its age and then some.... Front seat appears to have a tear/ wear thru the leather. Wheels have wheel rash ( which can be repaired). No sign of a cluth replacement, so that could be necessary on the near term?? I must say I don't know the Northern Ca Porsche market, but I think you can do better in both condition and price for a 2002 Cab with a bit less miles as well. My advice to you is the same others gave me when I was looking for my Pcar, be patient and diligent as there are lots out there and your planful search will lead to a favorable end. You are in the drivers seat ( no pun intended!! ).

My $.02 and again good luck with the search. demosan

Thanks all for the info and good suggestions.

I really enjoy Porsche shopping. So far, I have test driven a 2002 C4 cab and a 2004 C4S cab. Not really impressed with the '02 but the '04 is WOW!

Any big difference between the two? Both have 50-60k miles. The price difference is about $8k, high $20k vs. mid $30k.. Guess got to pay to play.

You don't mention any options in either the '02 or '04 cars you have test driven. Unless the '04 has the X51 option ( 355HP vs the 320) their isn't really any difference in the power trains. WIth the 04 being a C4S, it has the turbo suspension and brakes which is a nice upgrade ( I have a 02 C4S coupe myself). Good luck with the search!!

Demosan :cheers:

Thanks for the info. It is very helpful. I have seen '99-'02 996s selling for low to mid $20k here in CA.

Another question, what's mki and mkii? I heard to get mkii if possible.

MkII refers to the '02 and newer versions of the 996 platform that had the 3.6L displacement motor vs the MkI referencing the 99-01 models that were built with the 3.4L motors.

The MKII was also referred to as the "facelift" version of the 996 platform that also included some changes to bumpers and interior features, like audio and OBC features.

Good luck with your search. There are lots of deals out there right now for sure!! Demosan :cheers:

I have '99 996 C4. The cruise control doesn't work but use to. I have replaced a few tail light bulbs and am wondering if the cc issue is related. The bulbs were bought at AutoZone and are not OEM but the part catalog for the bulbs at the store told me what to get. The fuses are good. Replies are greatly appreciated.

CHeck the brake light switch as that is definitely a part of the CC circuitry. Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:

I put a new serpentine belt on my '99 996 Tip at 90,000 miles, but now at 123,000 miles the belt it showing signs of wear (stage 1 cracks). I expected the serpentine belt to last longer than this? Is this normal or is the belt tensioner broken/misadjusted?

My recollection is the belt is a 60K mile replacement item. If the tensioner pulley has never been replaced,I would guess the wear you are experiencing is probably due to wear of the tensioner and perhaps idler pulley as well. Demosan

2003 996 Carrera Cabriolet 6-Speed

I'm having issues with the car periodically slow starting. By slow starting, I mean it sometimes takes 3 seconds after I turn the key and sometimes takes up to 45 seconds to engage the starter. It has been slow starting more frequently lately. I had the battery tested and it was ok. Sometimes it starts immediately. The battery is at least two years old.

Any thoughts? HELP!

Not sure hoe often you use the car, but is sounds like a weak battery ( or bad connections as Maurice suggested). I would get the battery load tested at auto service center to determine it's cranking capacity. Pick one that yoiu would buy the battery from and I'm sure there would be no charge for test.

Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:

This has been happening for years. I have a 01 996 C2 Tip. It use to just happen on the track with less then 1/2 tank of gas. Car would stall for 1-2 seconds then start running again. It's just like the ignition was turned off and back on. I now always track the car with at least 1/2 tank of gas. I replaced the fuel filter last month and everything has been fine. I was at the track last weekend, no stalling, then on the way home with over 1/2 tank of gas, I was stalling every 30 seconds for 2-3 seconds then the car would start running again. It's just like the ignition was turned off, wait 2-3 seconds and then turn it back on. I filled up the tank and no problems.

Could there be any problems with fuel pump lines. I know there are all type of lines coming and going from the fuel pump and maybe some have broken free and with less then a full tank of gas they are getting some type of vapor lock. Thanks for your help.

Ken, these symptoms ca npoint to a faulty ignition switch. has it ever been replaced?? Do you get any codes when the engines "stops" unexplicably?? CEL flashing or whatever?? One thing you can do is "wiggle" the ignition key when you are idling and see if you replacate the stall condition. If so you'll know it is the electrical portion of the switch. DO a search for ignition switch here on the site and you'll see lots of dialogue and DYI instructions. Good Luck!! Demosan

:cheers:

A couple questions

Where is the noise coming from, front or rear of car?

Is it a "whine" like noise that is proportional to road speed or engine speed?

It could be as simple as a belt slipping under load.

It's hard for me to distinguish where the noise is coming from. I would guess it is from the rear. the sound is not so much a whine as it is a hum and it is not like it gets louder the faster I go. It is more or an occurring not occurring sort of thing. When I am in fourth gear or above at or above 3000 rpms, the hum occurs. so it starts at around 55 to 60 mph and is audible only when i am pressing the gas.

Could be a belt tensioner beginning to go bad. Have you ever replaced either the idler pulley or belt tensioner?? If it were either pulley, you should be able to create the noise by reving engine with engine latch open and listening for the nosise with someone reving motor to 3000RPM as you state that is when you hear the noise.

Good Luck!! :cheers: My $.02 Demosan

2001 C4 yesterday evening after I shut the engine down I hear a "gurgling" sound coming from the very front of the car, coolant reservoir is full.

Don't remember ever hearing that sound before.

Anyone know the probable source..??

wwest,

Sounds like there may be some air-bubbles in the radiators in the front of your car?? Have you recently changed your coolant?? You might want to run for a day with the coolant bleeder valve open to help "burp" any air pockets in the cooling lines/radiators. Do a search in this forum for lots of info relative to purging air from cooling circuit.

Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:

I am looking at buying a 2001 996 C2 cab 6speed with 32K miles on it.

It is a good-looking car, with most of the options that I want. During a test drive, we noticed a balky 2nd gear, and I suspected a synchro problem. When I got a PPI, sure enough - the 2nd gear synchro is bad. I asked the dealer doing the PPI to check the over-rev counter, and hopefully they will do that. I am concerned that the synchro went at only 32K miles, and suspect that it may have been abused. Anything else I should be looking at?

The current owner has agreed to repair the tranny (about a $4.5K hit). The sales price is $29.5K. Options are supple leather, 18 inch wheels, PCM, comfort package, technic package, heated seats, 3 spoke wheel, brake/shifter in carbon, colored crests, no hardtop.

Advice?????? Do I buy it? DO I walk away? Do I check something else for wear?

bvs

bvs,

Given you have had some interaction from the current owner, ask for a service history of the car from the service location/dealer where the work was performed. That should give you an idea as to what preventative service/repairs have been performed and when on the car. That should give you a good idea as to how diligent the owner has been in PM. WIth a bad synchro, that should have been uncovered in the last service?? Does the current owner currently track the car at all??

Good Luck!! If the owner has no real reacord of service events performed on the car I would walk away. There are lots of good P-cars out there with decent pricing.

Demosan :cheers: