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Posts posted by demosan

  1. I always see post about Extended Warranties and of course, RMS/IMS.

    This may help others......

    My 04 C4S just had it's 3rd RMS/IMS reseal yesterday. First covered by Porsche during initial warranty and two times now with extended warranty. FYI, I bought the car from Porsche dealer as well as extended warranty when original ran out.

    I also made it a habit to have dealership change oil/filter regularly. I felt it might help if in the future should the car develop a 2nd RMS leak, under extended warranty, to have Porsche dealer deal with the Ext Warranty company.

    Original RMS at 26K miles and extended rms/ims warranty repairs at 41K miles and 46K miles about 2.5 years apart.

    They stuck a clutch in for me which I was glad to pay for with no labor at the 41K mile repair.

    Except for the clutch and a few bolts they didn't cover (which I asked to be replaced with new), warranties covered everything and no questions.

    Not only where there no questions, I got the feeling from dealership that they didn't want to hear my questions such as "Are the seals/housing that you put in for this RMS/IMS repair different from the last part numbers" in hope that maybe something different then last components installed might fix the leak.

    They simply referred me to the Dealership Bill which I cross referenced with the bill from 2 years earlier.

    With the exception of some simple price fluctuations for the part numbers, they appear to be the same from Jan 2008 and June 1st 2010.

    Here is what the Porsche dealer is replacing for RMS/IMS repair currently as of June 1st, 2010.

    997-101-212-01 Shaft sealing RI

    900-385-275-01 Hex head Screws

    999-385-004-01 Torx Screws

    900-123-106-30 Alum Seal Ring

    900-123-147-30 Seal Ring 27X3

    996-105-024-01 Shaft Housing

    Since they are the same parts as last repair which also leaked, I expect I will see some drops on the garage floor here in the near future. My car club buddies claim my Porsches are getting "LEAKING LESSONS" in the garage at night from my old Ferrari in next stall 8-)

    Based on repairs and cost of extended warranty, it worked out well for me in dollar savings to date especially with a window regulator replacement in between RMS's.

    I guess RMS is a touchy spot with porsche dealerships, they didn't laugh or smile when I asked if I could get a free bag of oil spill absorbent with each RMS repair kit....

    At least mine are always small seeps.renntech1.gif And thanks for this great site, I would have just assumed they were supposed to leak had I not read up some often through the years.

    I must say, based on your story you are handling this situation far better than I would in the same circumstances.................... Kind of scary to me that you needed a third seal/IMS seal after only 5K mi'les from previous one?? Do you track your car at all?? When I read your story, as a mechanical engineer I wonder if there is a more significant "run-out" of your crankshaft that causes these seal failures?? I guess I am just lucky as my 02 C4S is still on the original RMS and IMS seals with 39K miles.

    Thanks for sharing your story and I hope this is the last "seal" incident you have ofr the life of your car. cheers.gif


  2. Here are a few pics of the 2002 C4S with new wheels and a few friends.





    I really think the white C4S is a spectacular looking car, however those wheels look like they "raised' your car significantly?? WHen I look at the Lambo

    and your car there seems to be a significant difference?? Are those wheels 20's??


  3. Three months ago I had the engine out after a rattle developed and had new IMS bearing, crankshaft bearings, chain tensioners, water pump and air/oil seperator and for the last 3,000 miles everything has been fine. Had the oil changed 1,000 miles after the engine work was done as recomended so I am now mystified what could be cuasing a new rattle.

    No "check engine light", no drop in oil pressure, no loss of performance just a rattle from the left-hand side of the engine.

    What is over that side to check out?

    ETA... ominously when i lifted the lid it actually sounds like exactly the same noise in the same place as before on the right-hand side of the engne compartment and very internal!

    Sure its the in the morto and not the catalytic converter?? Common that the baffles in the CC ca nbreak loose and create some strange noises. easy enough to hit CC with a ru[bber lallet and see what might be lose in there. Demosan

  4. Hi all,

    So I have decided to buy a Durametric Diagnostic software but which one?

    I was going to buy from the UK from Design911 but it's a bit pricy,

    Then I saw one from PelicanParts in the US better value but my question is?

    If I buy one from the US would it work on my RHD Irish/UK spec car?

    2001 996 C4 Cab, 6sp.

    DURAMETRIC PRO Fault & ECU Reader €666 from Desing911 UK

    Durametric Diagnostic Tool for Porsche (1996 - present) Enthusiast Package €350 from PelicanParts US

    Many thanks in advance guys.




    Why not buy direct from Durametric?? I bought mine directly a few years ago and they offer free updates to their latest release software etc and were very easy to deal with. Here is the link for US pricing FYI http://www.durametric.com/buyus.aspx If you only have a post 1996 car and only intend to use it on that car or possible replacements in the future you don't need the "Option II" kit withthe round adaptor for pre 1996 OBDII connectors. I AM NOT IN ANY WAY AFFILIATED WITH DURAMTRIC but simply a content user. Good Luck!! demosan


  5. Hi, yesterday evening, after returning from my local Porsche dealer for the 120,000km maintenance, I noticed some blue colored water under the car, passenger side, right under the headlight (Litronic). After inspection, I noticed that water very slowly drips out of the headlight washer jet. Very strange, especially that the car just left the Porsche dealer. I'll go back to let them inspect this, but in the meantime, any ideas of why/how ? Everything (headlight washer) seems to work fine. The car is a 2001 C4 coupe, manual transmission, LHD.




    I would wait a few days and see if there still is leaking washing fluid before undertaking a repair ( albeit not a difficult repair) as in the 120,00K service the dealer probably tried the washers to see if the pump was OK etc. and the fluid was probably some excess as a result of that dealer test. My $.02 !!

    demosan cheers.gif

  6. Hi guys

    i posted a while back about this,have a 2003 C4S 27000 miles,im the 2nd owner,clean fax nice car,had(still have) a noise that seems to be coming from the front left wheel area and changes with road surface,its been to a porsche dealer and 2 indy shops,porsche dealer thought it was wheel bearing,changed both sides and still have noise,they said it was normal road noise,one indy said it was road noise,the other indy said something is causing the noise but cant see anything,he also said it may be the axle or front diff but wont know for sure unless he takes it apart,have also changed tires have Sumitomo's,no change in noise,new rotors and pads(it did need them anyway,no change,new front diff oil still no change,i dont believe this is road noise,getting pretty fustrated,what do i have to do to find the problem,any input please

    Thanks Albert


    I have an '02 C4S and have had a front end noise issue that I tracked down to my car having the shorter sport springs which when the car is raised on jacking points the springs can mis-seat on the spring mounting surfaces resulting in a strange grinding noise when turning the front wheels in any direction. In my case, this was rather easy to find, so your noise issue sounds much more subtle, but I offer it as possibility anyway.

    Good Luck!! demosan cheers.gif

  7. I have developed a misfire while accelerating from low revs. Seems not misfire in the higher rev range.

    Also seems to develope when engine up to temperature but cannot be 100% sure of this.

    No fault codes shown which seems a little strange.

    Can anyone help with this problem I'm having.


    Do you get any CEL?? If you can't get any codes, then it probably could be bad coil packs ( cracked) . Have you had any work done on the car recently??

    Good Luck!! Demosan

  8. I'm planning on replacing the air inlet grilles on the front bumper this winter. Do I need to remove the bumper or are these accessed from below once the belly pan attached to the bumper is removed. How are the attached, snap fittings or screwed in from behind? Car is a 04, 40th anniv so it has the C4S type front bumper.

    Removing the front nose will make the job much easier. DO a search for nose removal or readiator cleaning and there will be DYI instructions to remove the nose. I have done it several times and it an easy job ( but easier with two people).

    Good luck!! demosan :cheers:

  9. Thanks for all the kind words. The truth is, I really never should have bought that car, although I was able to pay for it, I would have been in REAL trouble if it ever broke. I had to put a clutch in and did all the work myself in my friends garage and it still set me back $1K.

    In all honesty.. the Mini is a GREAT car, not fast by any definition. Actually quite slow, but something about it puts a smile on your face when driving it. I'll probably hold off on the 911 until the days comes that I hit a big financial windfall, like lottery or something. And then, probably buy the dream car from my childhood, a nice air cooled turbo.

    Thank you all, although I have not been a big contributor here, the wealth of information has been very helpful on many occasions.

    Best of luck to you all!



    I would suggest to you buying the Pcasr was the right thing to do at the time for all the reasons you reference in your first "dream post". You my friend have the next set of priorities spot on and helping your family is apprpriately at the top of the list. Thanks for your sons service and I'm sure your best Pcar days are ahead of you!! Meanwhile enjoy the mini........... Demosan :cheers:

  10. I recently refreshed my Porche center hub caps with the "new" larger Porche crest painted centers. The old ones for a 996 were $57 each at the dealer and the new ones were $35 each also at the same dealer. The parts manager claims they are the new Porche hub caps for the 997 and Panamera.




    Pics of the "old" and "new" center caps would be informative?? Can you post some pics??

    Demosan :cheers:

  11. The LCD backlight on my CR-220 died, (I can still read everything in direct sunlight, and everything works) I assume it's the bulbs, but could be the dropping resistor. The faceplate LOOKS easy to open, but before I delve in there, I figured it was worth asking on the board if anyone has ever replaced the backlight. For a few bucks, it's worth repairing, but I sure would never pay the $70 that is being asked on ebay for a face plate. I have a CDR-220 to use in the meantime, so no big rush at all, but I like to use cassettes at times. TIA.

    I Would clean the contacts on the dispay facepate and see if that "rejuvenates" the back-lite ?? Beyond tha tyou could try and reach Becker and see if they offer a repair service that is cost effective. Good Luck!! :cheers:


  12. 2002 carrera 4s, called dealer they didn't know what tires to use. Spoke to firestone dealer his recommendation was wrong. Another dealer etc... Bottom line, I spent about two hours with a tire calculator and came up with 215/45R18 for the front and 275/35R18 for the rear. These have the same revolutions per mile, they will fit on the rim widths within spec. This is for running with the wheels that are stock. Ideally, you would be better off with a different set of rims that are narrower. I just happen to own two sets of rims with stock dimesions. I didn't want a third set of wheels. The overall diameter is about a half inch higher than stock.

    Apprently you don't have a owners manual?? Stock sizes for 2002 C4S atandard rims is 225-40-18 fronts and 295-30-18 rears.

    Hope this what you were looking for?? demosan

  13. Hi. On a 2000 C2, i have been trying to track down this annoying metallic like rattle from the rear. It happens whenever I accelerate or decelerate. not sure if it's coming from inside the cabin or not. It sounds like it may be coming from the drivers side (U. S. spec car) rear. i checked the muffler bolts on that side and the metal plates above the relay panel on that side already.

    Not sure how many miles you have on your car, but is not uncommon that the baffles in either the catalytic converter or the muffle break loose inside and cause some noise that is hard to diagnose. YOu could remove the muffler first and see if there is something loose inside as well as the catalytic converters.

    If you do a search for noisy catalytic converters in this forum I'm sure you will see some info.

    Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:

  14. Has anyone got any suggestions about a fix for this problem?

    I've got exactly the same problem on my car. It's an '03 C4S UK car (so right hooker) and I've just replaced the rear tyres for Pirelli PZero Rosso N5. The fronts are Continental SportContact2 N2 with 5mm. Do I have to replace my front tyres as well? :huh:

    Interesting, does it only happen on one side or does it happen on both? Mine are all matching but the rears are new and the fronts prob have 5k miles on them.


    Have you tried turning off the PSM under the same driving conditions to see what reaction you get ?? I don't believe your problem is related to tire size issues, but possibly a bad wheel sensor??


  15. Hello,

    Back in March when I bought my 00 C2 Cab, I knew the windshield washer did not work. Since I only drive the car on nice days, this is not a serious problem.

    However, last week I decided to do a little work to see what is going on. My work was not hard, just hold the washer switch and see if I could determine what is happening. Well, I heard the pump run (good sign), but no fluid spraying out. I was able to pull one of the rubber nozzle hoses off. I tried to blow through it, but I was not able to. Is that normal or is the nozzle clogged? I then reconnected the nozzle and held the spray switch on. I heard the pump run, then a splash and I saw fluid pour from underneath the car.

    Tomorrow I will take the LF wheel and liner off and take a look at the tank and plumbing. I assume the tank is bad. If that is true I will get a new tank, but I need to know if I should be able to blow through the washer nozzle or not. I don't want to blow up a new tank.



    Barry, I would guess you have hose that has been displaced or disconnected from the tank some how. I would guess the reaso nyou can't 'blow" air throu the hose is there is a one way check valve to prevent all the liquid running back to the tank everytime you use the washer.

    Good Luck!! I'm sure you will see a displaced hose when you gain access to the tank after removing inner liner.

    Demosan :cheers:

  16. I just installed the iPod cable I ordered from Becker for my '02 Cab and while the audio plays fine, the iPod does not charge. I don't get the flashing battery icon that I normally do. The iPod I am using is a "Mini" and is supposed to be compatible. Has anyone run into this and what would you check? I called Becker and they said they would send another one, but if I can find the issue I will stop them from sending another.




    If you mean by "mini" the Ipod shuffle, it is only designed to use the USB voltage for charging, i.e. 5Volts DC. In the case of other Ipods they use 12VDC. SO I'm not sure how getting another cable from Becker will solve this discrepancy. Let us know how you make out on this issue as others I'm sure have faced the same problem.

    Demosan :cheers:

  17. tunegoon,

    FYI, this is the cover that hides the roof rack mounting studs, not the drains. I have not seen that problem before, however, I would try and gently pry the door up a bit and I believe you can reset the molded posts back into the retaining clips without breaking. Otherwise, I expect it will be a an new one from dealer. Not sure they come already painted??

    Good Luck!! :cheers: demosan

  18. After lurking around here for a couple years, I finally have something to post.

    I have been dealing with a heavy clutch since I bought my '02 996 C2. At the time I just sold my '86 930. It had a KEP Stage 2 clutch, so needless to say it was a very heavy clutch. I didn't notice the 996 was heavy, because to me it was light. It was after I drove a friends 997 that I really noticed. After a couple days at Watkins Glen it really started to be an issue

    Two different mechanics told me that the clutch needed replaced. That didn't make sense to me because the clutch was replaced by the previous owner and only has 20k miles on it. Plus it never slipped or had any other problems.

    On a whim I decided to remove the helper spring to see if it would help. Sure enough, the spring was broken and the coils were binding. I never would have thought a spring like this would break until I saw it. Now I just have to decide if I want to just leave it off or replace it.

    Makes me wonder if that is why the previous owner replaced the clutch in the first place.....


    Also makes you wonder how the two mechanics you spoke with reached the conclusion you needed a new clutch?? Sounds like they needed the work more than giving you a honest diagnosis.


  19. Yesterday while getting on the highway a guy stopped short for no reason on the on-ramp and I ran up under his truck. Can anyone recommend a good body shop in LA?

    Also, can anyone tell me how to maybe reattach the side of front bumper that popped loose in interim? (see picture)



    Can't help with the body shop question, however it looks like you ca nreattach your front nose on passenger side with the plastic pop rivet tyope device that installs in the fender well near the side marker light. Check the other side and you will see the part. I don't have part number, but the local Porsche dealer will surely stock the part and it shouldn't be that expensive even at the dealer.

    Demosan Good Luckwith the repair, although it looks like it shouldn't be too bad from your picture. :cheers:

  20. Recently in my '99 C2 Tip, when in 5th at about 35 - 45 mph (low rpm) and coasting with no throttle, I noticed the slightest of a whine from the rear. Its like a soft woo sound. I don't think its transmission noise as I manually shift down to 4th and 3rd and there is no change in the pitch. I don't hear it any other time. Its no worse cornering. I jacked the car up and there is no rumble from any wheel when I spin them. Maybe its my imagination but could it be the start of my wheel bearings?

    How many miles on your rear tires?? If it isn't the bearing, I would bet it's the tires if they are beyond 50% worn. Many other incidences of this "noise issue" when you have wide rear tires at 40psi or more.

    My $.02 Demosan

  21. Trying to find a dealer/distributor for only the starter solenoid. I replaced the AOS and noticed the alt cable to starter solenoid was burnt by the solenoid. Apparently the cables decided to arc weld themselves to the 8mm solenoid connection. The soleniod cap cracked getting bad cables off. Does anyone know where to get just the soleniod???

    I found the part numbers but can't find a dealer for just the solenoid....

    bosch soleniod part number -- 2-339-303-277

    Starter reman numbers ---

    BOSCH 0-001-123-001

    BOSCH NEWMAN SR0808N -- new

    BOSCH REMAN SR0808X -- reman

    LESTER 17804

    LTD 17804


    NASTRA S17804

    NEW TECH N17804

    OCA PLATINUM 17804

    OE PLUS ST-1035

    PIC # 120-333

    PORSCHE 996-604-103-00

    QUALITY 17804

    RELIANCE 61354

    WESTLING 72-17804S

    WILSON 91-15-7205

    WORLDWIDE 17690

    Suncoast 17804

    autoline XCL21234

    hitest 17804

    fitment cross ref:

    911 SERIES 3.4L 1999-2001

    911 SERIES 3.6L 2004-2008

    911 SERIES 3.8L 2005-2008

    BOXSTER 2.5L 1999

    BOXSTER 2.7L 2000-2008

    BOXSTER 3.2L 2000-2006

    BOXSTER 3.4L 2007-2008

    CARRERA GT 5.7L 2004-2005

    CAYMAN 2.7L 2007-2008

    CAYMAN 3.4L 2006-2008



    I would try a auto starter rebuild shop in your area that would probably sell you the solenoid part if you aren't close to a Bosch supply location.

    Demosan Good Luck!!

  22. I just picked up a 2001 911 Cab Tip and have a few small problems. While I'm driving awhile, I hear a double chime. This happens every once in a while and no caution lights or gauges out of norm. I don't have a radio code. Where do I get the ser.# and if I need to pull the radio, how? It is a factory Porsche radio. How do I get a duplicate ignition key? Lots of questions, lots of time.


    As others have stated, you have the trafficpro nav/radio in your car. I retrofitted one in my 02C4S as an alternative to the double-din aftermarket units. If you google the term "trafficpro" you will find sites you can download the manual from. the Porsche model designation on my unit Becker is 4763, although they were made by Becker for several auto mfgs. including BMW. The manual will walk you through the code issue ( once you get it from the dealer or Becker as Loren suggests). My code for the trafficpro in my car is a 5 digit number as compared to the CDR-220 it replaced was a 4 digit code FWIW.

    If you get stuck trying to find get the manual, send me a PM and I will respond with pdf file of the manual.

    Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:

  23. I've got two issues popping up with a new one this evening:

    1) Car more frequently now than before doesn't start on the morning first-start crank. All the electrics light up and the battery looks to be holding voltage at about 12.3 (per my search), but try to fire and it does nothing. I need to do this several times sometimes and it's an annoyance. Clutch switch? Who knows. When driving, seems to hold just under the 14 mark so it doesn't sound like it's the battery?

    2) Just this evening after I've been driving around a bit I go to start the car. Very slow to crank. Had to try a couple of times to get the engine to turn over. Starter motor? Ignition switch? Not sure, but it's just been feeling like the car's slower to crank or the crank isn't as full of alacrity as in the past?


    Many thx. I'm gonna get these things handled now. Annoyances.


    I would "jumper" the clutch switch to isolate that is one possible problem and also have the battery load tested at any auto repair shop that seels batteries. Easy diagnostic tests before taking any other part replacement tests.

    My $.02 Demosan Good Luck!! :cheers:

  24. I have an '02 C2, with the Comfort Package option. It has standard full leather seats that are supple leather, heated, and have all electric controls. On the side of each seat there are 2 levers, plus a round rocker button. On non-lumbar seats, this is just a round plug. One lever control seat back, the other, seat bottm tilt and height. The round rocker inflates/deflates the lumbar, and also raises it or lowers it to where you want it contacting your lower back. Works perfectly on both seats. I love it.

    I too have the lumbar seat option ( both driver and front passenger option 513 and 586). I don't have the "comfort seat" option in my 02C4S, but apprarently was offered as a "stand-alone" option ( at $380 per seat per window sticker)!!


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