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demosan

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Posts posted by demosan

  1. I,m about to fit new condensers to my air con. system.When i have it re-gassed do I need some oil introducing at the same time? If so what kind of oil is it,where do I get it and how do you get it into the system? 1999 c4 Cab.

    Chaz2,

    +1 on RFM comments. Bring your car to a aircon specialists t orecharge system and inform them you have installed new components. It VERY important that the system is purged of all moisture ( water vapor) before charging with new R134A. At the same time, they can pressure test the system before revharge to ensure there are no obvious leaks before recharge.

    Demosan

  2. Hi,

    I'm getting married in a few weeks and wanted to decorate my car for the wedding but I don't have any ideas on how to do it. I want to do it tastefully but I can't seem to find any examples online of other Porsches that were decorated for weddings. Do you guys have any photos or have any ideas on how to do it?

    Thanks,

    Raymond

    Raymond,

    You are putting us on right?? Pleeeeze, if you want to use your Pcar for any wedding heroics, get it detailed and let the limo bear the brunt of the decorating hysteria!!

    That said, enjoy the day and the best to you and your SO!! :cheers:

    demosan

  3. Alternator's in, it's working like a charm.

    Lessons learned for anyone else doing this:

    1) The rear bushing on passenger-side of the alternator was really tight. Some people were able to tap it back with the bolt after 5 turns, but it didn't work for me. Use lots of lube and place downward pressure on the tab while wiggle the alternator. Before putting it back in, I ground the surface down a few thousandths to make the install a little easier.

    2) Before shelling out $400 for a rebuilt alternator, contact your local independent auto electric shop. My shop charged me $195 after taxes to rebuild my alternator and had it ready the same day.

    Cheers,

    Joe

    Joe,

    thanks for the info on your alternator replacement. I am curious as to whether the rebuild you had done included a new voltage regulator ( I believe it is integrated into the back of the alternator) or was it only a mechanical rebuild of replacing bearings??

    Regards, demosan

  4. Hello everyone, I must say I am going crazy trying to find a sollution to my problem. My 2002 996 has a Radio CDR 220 fitted and I have been unsuccesful in getting the radio to display the programme descriptions such as 'Cassic Rock' or 'Triple M' etc. I have called my Porsche dealer and made me feel like my model was pre-historic and no one had any idea or anyone old enough to know. Had to check for myself (hope the dealer doesnt catch on :huh: ) and test drove a vehicle of the same model same year same radio and of course that radio displayed the program. Can someone help me on the steps I need to follow to set this feature up. Thanks to all.

    James,

    Loren's last post with the link for radio user manuals post apparently was posted as I was constructing my response to your original post. Sorry for the confusion. My instructions were from my Trafficpro manual, as I replaced my original head unit in my 02 C4S wit hthe trafficpro navigation a year or so ago and assumed the manual was same as Cr/CDR 220 head unit and it appears it may not be. Therefore my instructions in my last post may be bogus :censored:

    My bad and as always Loren appears to have you on the right track!!

    Demosan

  5. Hello everyone, I must say I am going crazy trying to find a sollution to my problem. My 2002 996 has a Radio CDR 220 fitted and I have been unsuccesful in getting the radio to display the programme descriptions such as 'Cassic Rock' or 'Triple M' etc. I have called my Porsche dealer and made me feel like my model was pre-historic and no one had any idea or anyone old enough to know. Had to check for myself (hope the dealer doesnt catch on :huh: ) and test drove a vehicle of the same model same year same radio and of course that radio displayed the program. Can someone help me on the steps I need to follow to set this feature up. Thanks to all.

    James,

    If I understand what you are trying t odo is simply display the program type on your radio display, then here is the way the manual describes the process. It is only on FM bands here in the states that the RDBS info is available ( and not on all channels). Steps are as follows, although I must preface my instructions as from someone who never has completely understood all the functionality that is available in the Becker headunit, so I urge you to get a user manual to validate all the various display settings you have available. I ahve ssen them on ebay.

    To simply display program type on your display, here is my attempt to get you this feature:

    1. Press radio button and get on a FM band.

    2. Press the FM key again and then press the multifunction key "Txt" This will display any info from that particular station that is broadcast thru the RDB/RDBS format available for that particular station. When I tried to access this myself on my radio, I found it helpful to find a station that I listened to regularly that I knew broadcasted RDBS info. the Txt button represents Text on the display and will provide you the program type ( i.e. soft rock etc) as well as the artist and song title.

    I hope this gets you what you are looking for. Good luck!! PM me if you have any other questions and I will attempt to send you appropriate info from my manual. I must say however, the user interface on these Becker head units is NOT intuitive by any standards and anyone who has mastered the whole manual has my respect for sure. I have attempted to use some of the "auto programming" features and have given up many times and simply manually programmed my favorite stations on the HU display.

    Demosan :cheers:

  6. i just bought a 2002 c4s after the 4th of july weekend subject to a pre-purchace inspection. after giving the porsche dealer $310, the service mngr said that the wipers would need changing, brake fluid needed flushing, one of the tail pipes needed tack welding to stop vibration. so i asked "no leaks? no major issues? just the front brakes in a couple thousand miles. so i make a deal buy the car and on the way to work today 7/14 , my clutch starts slipping horribly. by the time i get to work im having a helluva time getting 1st, not to mention that im uber pissed. im still waiting for the service writer to call (expecting call tues am) so my question is...are my expections too high with a ppi at a porsche dealership. by the way the only pcars ive owned that were gearboxes were 2 930s and a 911sc...a completely different feel from the 996 gbox. was i being too presumptuous that the techs would find something soo glaring. i can check the fluids for gods sake. im baffled. i believe i should have some expectationthat the car should be in decent condition. anyone with simialar experience? resolution? thanx in advance for any and all advice...kevin

    930,

    Did you actually buy the car from the P dealership, or did they only do the $310 PPI??? In either case, there is a "peep" hole where you can look at the clutch/flywheel interface and get a reasonable view of the cluch thickness. One would have thought they would have looked at that as well as driving the car and testing the clutch for slippage as part of a $310 PPI.

    I would definitely go after them and ask for an explanation as to exactly what they did check ( beyond fluid levels etc..). I also bought a 02 C4S a few years ago and had a reputable Indie do the PPI for $230 as I recall and it included a thorough drive and inspection of the drive train on a lift ( they checked to see the front differential was in top order as well as pulling plugs and doing a lead-down test ( in addition to AC and ATC functionality ) as well as fluid conditions. Sounds to me the dealer did a superficial job and I would ensure NOT to ever have any service sone there if you can avoid it. My $.02 !!

    Hope you have better luck with the car than these firsweeks and I'm sure you will enjoy the C4S. It's a great car!!

    Demosan :cheers:

  7. I'm hearing a slight knocking sound from my front suspension. I was told during a 4-wheel alignment that I had a cracked left-front sway bar end link, but that it wasn't anything major. That was confirmed by a Porsche dealer last fall, but they didn't have the part at the time. I brought the car to another dealer in the spring, and they told me there was nothing wrong with my end links. I wasn't hearing a noise back then, but the past week it's been noticeable.

    Sound familiar to anyone? For all I know, it has nothing to do with the end link... but, to spot the condition of the end links myself, is it possible without putting the car up?

    1999 C2 stock without M030.

    :renntech:

    -Brian

    Brian,

    I have noticed when I have jacked the car for various service DIY projects, and the front suspension "hangs" in the air ( with wheel still mounted) the springs can shift position on the upper spring strut seats such that when the car is lowered to the ground the springs then make a sound when turning as the springs are not sitting concentric on the seats ( typically the uppers have been my problem. To remedy for me, I simply jack the car such that I can insure the springs are seated concentriclly and lower the car and all is well ( no more sounds).

    I have a 02 C4S, but would guess this is an issue of all models??

    Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:

  8. Hello,

    I was mounting off the radio (a Becker CDR22 on my 996 MY2002) and I founded, inside the radio place but lower than the radio , on the left side (see picture 1 and follow red arrow), a "box", around 1 x 4 inches, connected with a jack "audio type" and a red flashing led (see picture 2).

    Somebody knows what is it?

    Thanks,

    Pizblu

    On a more serious note, I have a LoJack in my car and that does not look like the "box" I have. Moreover, the LoJack techs would not mount the box in that area, rather more remote area of the car ( usually close to the battery area in a P-car hidden from clear view..

    Does the RCA cable coming either out of the box ( or in) come from the radio antenna?? It may be an RF amplifier to try and get better radio performance from these marginal head-units. If you call LoJack customer service and explain you are the second owner of the car they can use your VIN number to tell you if the car was ever registered in their system as having LoJack. the number is 800-456-5225.

    Demosan

  9. I'll be going over for business purposes....the length of which is unknown currently. By the way, is there a relay switch that I can change that would fix the problem that I have with the lights? Also what is the MAF cleaner that Izzy recommended?

    I appreciate the help.

    George

    I doubt it is a relay as these is separate relay for each side and it would be very unlikely they would both we going bad at the same time. CHeck your owners manual and you can see what I mean in the fuse panel/relay lay-out section.

    Demosan

  10. I am in the process of moving to Europe and I own a 2003 996 4S. Since spare parts are rather expensive in Europe I will be bying whatever I can here in the US and take with me for later us. My car has approximately 35000 miles on it. I have already purchased 1 set of brake pads (front and rear), and plan to purchase front and rear rotors , and maybe a fuel pump as well. Does this sound right? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated! Parts in Greece are about double the price right now.

    Also, lately I noticed that sometimes when I turn the light switch on, the xenon lights dont go on but when I turn the switch off and on again they light up. Is that indicative of a bad switch?

    georgios,

    Yes those light switch symptoms seem to reflect a switch going bad soon, although it could also be your ignition switch getting flaky.

    Therefore, to add to Izzy's list, I would suggest getting the plastic replacement portion of the ignition switch ( about $25-$30) and perhaps a spare light switch as well.

    As a curiosity, will you going to Greece "permenently" or for an ex-pat tyoe of assignment?? In either case, I'm sure you'll enjoy your C4S there.

    Demosan :cheers:

  11. Hi,

    I have a noise coming from the air con, i thought it may have needed just a regass but had this done yesterday and the noisy is still there, any ideas ??? It goes when you turn off the air con so i'm thinking pulley or tensioner, problem is i'm not that familiar with the set up. The system had no leaks and it works perfectly well but the noise is doing my head in!!

    i was wondering if the aircon has a independent tensioner ?? i'm hoping the compressor pulley bearing isn't shot!! can you get these repaired ??

    If anyone can shed some insight i'd be glad

    Dave

    Dave,

    Not sure of your model year, however, in my 02C4S these is only one tensioner on the single serpentine belt. The compressor pulley is constantly turning and the internal clutch engages on the compressor when the AC is turned "on". Therefore, there may be a problem with the compressor clutch ( they apprently wear out over time and then you can get a metal-to-metal type of sound.

    I do not believe the clutch on the compressor is replaceable. Checked Pelican parts and new OEM compressor is part no. 996-126-011-BX-M11 and is listed as $467.

    Good luck!!

    Demosan :cheers:

  12. Hi All

    I was driving home tonight in my '02 996 C4S and all of a sudden the battery/generator light popped on, and I noticed the charge had dropped from its normal 14v to an unhealthy 10v or 11v. About 5 miles later, as the charge dropped off, various things shut down - PSM, ABS airbags etc.. I got home OK, turned it off and tried it again, and got the ominious click. I've charged the battery for a few hours - enough to start the car, but the battery/generator light was still on and the charge voltage was about 11v.

    Is this a dying alternator or might it be a dying battery? Although I've read here strange things with batteries, it seems strange that a) it started whilst I was happily hacking down a highway and B) that even after a charge, the charge voltage is low. However, I guess it could be that the battery's gone high resistance for some reason. I'll see about getting the battery tested tomorrow but just wondered if anyone had any comments.

    Thanks

    pete S

    Pete,

    Is this your original battery?? If it is, then I would bet it is the battery going bad with a shorted cell. Even if it is a replacement, I would guess a cell has gone bad. Easy way t odiagnose is to jump the battery in the car and see if it starts and voltage gauge is back to normal.

    Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:

  13. HI

    I started up my 2004 911 anniv. I got this warning "PCM Not working drive to workshop" also ABS light flashing.Turned off engine and restarted. all fine . Next day started up again all fine. My warrantty is over in 20 days <_<

    Thanks

    Concerned

    How old is your battery?? If your battery is original, this may be the symptoms of the battery getting close to end of usable life. If you don't drive the car daily, do you sue a battey maintainer?? If you have a shop voltmeter, check the battery voltage at the terminals before you drive the car after sitting since lat drive. Should be at least 12.5 volts ( optimum would be 13+). If less, battery may be on last legs

    demosan

  14. Hi

    I need to change a leaking condenser. The air con is still working and so the leak is very minor. Would I usually need to change the evaporator as well and if so how do I do this? (I will DIY the condenser and get the system regassed)

    OBD II, Not sure how you have determined you have a bad condenser, but if you go to a generic AC shop they will usually put dye into your system and then use a ultravilolet lite to see where the dye has leaked out t odetermine which component or connection is "bad". In the P-car system, it logically is likely that one of the condensers has a leak as they are vunerable to road debris build-up that can cause some corrosion or possibly a rock damaging the condenser coil. If you already have gone thru the dye check routine to determine the leaky condenser, then you are well on your way to avoid replacing parts that may be OK. There are often time neopreme o-rings in the threaded connections that can also go bad and are a lot cheaper to replace than the condenser or other discreet components ( dryer, etc.).

    Good luck with your diagnosis and repair. demosan :cheers:

    do

    Thanks

    At the last service in Dec 07. the Porsche dealer reported that a condenser was leaking. I have only just bought the car and the air con works very well. The only thing I saw on one condenser is that it is stained. I am surprised that the AC is still working if it has been leaking for so long. So I dont really know if there is a leak. However I want to get a warranty on the car and this necessiates a 111 point check. I would need to get anything repaired immediately at full OPC prices and am therefore trying to fix anything that they would otherwise pick up. So if I still have working air con, when I change the condenser I will loose all the refrigirent. I was going to get it regassed from a KWIK FIT. Do all shops automatically do all the vaccing out of the system or is that something I need to request?

    Thanks

    When the system is operating the refrigerant within the condensor(s) is under a fairly high pressure so I would be surprised if you actually have a leak and yet the A/C is still functional over a reasonably long period of time.

    I've had another look at it. The condenser has a greasy greenish stain over about half of it. Its quite 'oily'. Thought it could be coolant from the radiator but its definately not leaking coolant and there is no coolant smell. Checked the AC again and thats working fine.

    This might be a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" may apply. I would leave it alone if the AC is working fine and you don't have any coolant leaking either. I recently cleaned my radiator/condensor area by removing the front bumper and actually found a dead bird trapped between the condensor and radiator on one side in my C4S. Because the grills are so large, it appears it is easy for just about anything as far as road debris to get collected there, i.e. so getting a stain of some sort may mean nothing is wrong.

    demosan

  15. Hi

    I need to change a leaking condenser. The air con is still working and so the leak is very minor. Would I usually need to change the evaporator as well and if so how do I do this? (I will DIY the condenser and get the system regassed)

    OBD II, Not sure how you have determined you have a bad condenser, but if you go to a generic AC shop they will usually put dye into your system and then use a ultravilolet lite to see where the dye has leaked out t odetermine which component or connection is "bad". In the P-car system, it logically is likely that one of the condensers has a leak as they are vunerable to road debris build-up that can cause some corrosion or possibly a rock damaging the condenser coil. If you already have gone thru the dye check routine to determine the leaky condenser, then you are well on your way to avoid replacing parts that may be OK. There are often time neopreme o-rings in the threaded connections that can also go bad and are a lot cheaper to replace than the condenser or other discreet components ( dryer, etc.).

    Good luck with your diagnosis and repair. demosan :cheers:

    do

    Thanks

    At the last service in Dec 07. the Porsche dealer reported that a condenser was leaking. I have only just bought the car and the air con works very well. The only thing I saw on one condenser is that it is stained. I am surprised that the AC is still working if it has been leaking for so long. So I dont really know if there is a leak. However I want to get a warranty on the car and this necessiates a 111 point check. I would need to get anything repaired immediately at full OPC prices and am therefore trying to fix anything that they would otherwise pick up. So if I still have working air con, when I change the condenser I will loose all the refrigirent. I was going to get it regassed from a KWIK FIT. Do all shops automatically do all the vaccing out of the system or is that something I need to request?

    Thanks

    Here in the US, it is mandatory that the AC center evacuate the system before doing any work. Not sure in the UK, but would guess the same process would apply.Then if repair is made, they need to pull vacume again before regassing the system with refridgerant. As I mentioned earlier, it might be to your advantage to pay for a diagnostic dye to be added to your system to validate what is really wrong ( if anything). the "stain" your reference on one condenser may not be a leak at all. Most car dealers here in the US use AC shops to do this type of work rather than do it themselves as it requires special equipment and licensing. On the optimistic side, you may not have any leak at all if the AC still works fine and the dye check would be well worth the money as it will provide you with the exact problem ( if any) and documentation you could share with the P dealer in getting your warranty.

    Demosan

  16. Hi

    I need to change a leaking condenser. The air con is still working and so the leak is very minor. Would I usually need to change the evaporator as well and if so how do I do this? (I will DIY the condenser and get the system regassed)

    OBD II, Not sure how you have determined you have a bad condenser, but if you go to a generic AC shop they will usually put dye into your system and then use a ultravilolet lite to see where the dye has leaked out t odetermine which component or connection is "bad". In the P-car system, it logically is likely that one of the condensers has a leak as they are vunerable to road debris build-up that can cause some corrosion or possibly a rock damaging the condenser coil. If you already have gone thru the dye check routine to determine the leaky condenser, then you are well on your way to avoid replacing parts that may be OK. There are often time neopreme o-rings in the threaded connections that can also go bad and are a lot cheaper to replace than the condenser or other discreet components ( dryer, etc.).

    Good luck with your diagnosis and repair. demosan :cheers:

  17. This one may be an easy one. I was thinking it was your tires, then when you mention that they are do for a change, that was the icing for me. With some tires, as they wear down they can be loud at certain speeds. If it is time to change, I would change the tires and see if that was your problem.

    Yeah, that's probably it. Last weekends little trip(constant 80+mph) probably wore off just enough rubber to make the hum. The rears are not bald but the tread is way worn.

    Thanks much.

    bc,

    Another way to further diagnose it is the tires ( most likely given the wear etc.) is to inflate the tires to 44PSI ( if not alreay) and run for a day to see if the noise changes. If you are already at the 44PSI, then reduce to 38PSI and check for same noise. I would guess it is 99% certain it is the tires. I had the same problem with Pirelli Asymmetrico's when they were ready for replacement.

    Good luck!! demosan :cheers:

  18. I'm experiencing an intermittent failure of "something" related to oil pressure sending unit or oil pressure gauge or (God forbid!) oil pump. Driving down the road and pressure goes to "0" and then bounces back up to "5" after a couple of seconds. It won't happen again for weeks and then do it again. I would think that if it were a sending unit the thing would just "go out" - same thing for the pump. Of course, when I take it in the mechanic he can't find anything wrong and no codes. Short of wholesale replacing parts has anyone experienced this?

    thanks for any advice.

    '03 C4S

    30K miles.

    bruce,

    Could be as simple as electrical connections to the sender being loose/ intermittent. If connections OK, then the sender probably needs replacement.

    Good luck!! demosan

  19. Thanks.

    I called an independendent Porsche repair shop. Thay said it qouls cost arrounf $135.00 and there was a need for a barcode tag. If I recall correctly the kay came without that tag. The y would also charge $70.00 to activate the OBC. Think is a little high. On Manday will call a dealer in Miami. The guy I talked to on Saturday said the they could activate the OBC for $70.00+. Think it would be batter if I wait for the Durametric to have that option.

    Oout of context, when is suggested to replace the rip belt?

    I assume you mean the serpentine belt replacement?? It is scheduled in the 60K major maintainenece, but I would suggest replacing around 40K to be safe. especially in your hot summer climate. The belt is only around $30 and is an easy DYI>

    Demosan

  20. I got a 01' C2 and when I was trying to open up the A-Pillar trim and the air vent trim to investigate the rattle noise, I'm not sure how but one of the clips that hold the A-Pillar trim dropped into the hole where the clips clip on. I could hear the clip dropped into car's body.

    I'm wonder if there is a way to get the clip out as I do not want to add another rattling source to my car :(

    Thanks in advance.

    I would try and use a magnetic part retreiver that has a magnet on the end of a telescoping shaft like an old auto antenna. I have one and think I got it at Harbor tools, but I'm sure sears auto would have them as well as NAPA.

    Good luck!! demosan :cheers:

  21. A question that probably has been answered but couldn't find it with search engine. What is reasonable oil consumption on a 2003 Carrera 4S-- I had the oil (and RMS :( seal under CPO warranty) about 4k miles ago and when I check oil level with "electronic dipstick" on the dashboard, it only measures about one little bar from the lowest level (no low oil level yet). Is this normal or is my car consuming too much oil? The car only has 17k miles currently but is driven like the Porsche god meant... hard. Thanks for your input guys.

    No change between oil intervals ( annual or 7500 miles) have an o2 C4S with 30K miles.

    Demosan

  22. you might add some security torx drivers.

    Security Torx ?

    Security torx bits are the ones that have a small hole in the center of the bit. As their name implies, they are designed to provide some protection for "improper" DIY's getting into trouble. The MAP sensor torx screws fall in to this category in my 02 C4S as I recall.

    get a set, they are inexpensive and will prevent much frrustration when trying to do some "unscheduled" DIY work.

    demosan

  23. I started hearing a sound from the engine at idle only when engine is warm. It sounds like a dry bearing but it come from the back of the engine, mostly hear it between the back wheel and the door on the passenger side. Only at idle.

    Any ideas ??

    Not sure how many miles are on your car, but it sounds as if it possibly could be one of the the idler pulley (s) or tensioner pulley. Have you replaced and when?? I think it is a part of the 60K maintenence schedule ( I'm sure the belt is, not sure of idler pulley(s)??). If it happens with the AC off, switch on and see if the noise is still present or does it disappear as the idle speed will change slightly. This would give also point to one of the the ider pulley or tensioner pulley beginning to show excessive wear. There are two idlers and one tensioner pulley as I recall. Cost is about $70 for upper idelr and ~$85 for the lower idler and tensioner pulley. Good luck!!

    Demosan

    hey demsan

    135,000 miles and the sound is from the transmition..

    fredhaz,

    With 135K on that transmission, has it been serviced at the proper intervals?? I am not a TIP expert by any means as I have had all standards in my PCARS. WIth that many miles, it could be a transmission output shaft bearing, but bringing it to any auto transmission service center could probably do a diagnose for you without going to the OPC. Other TIP experts can probably help you here. I am not sure what extent the TIP transmission can be serviced/rebuilt.

    Good Luck!! demosan

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