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demosan

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Posts posted by demosan

  1. Thanks for the replies. I'll see what I can negotiate.

    The CPO is swaying me towards the purchase. I plan to trade up in two years so it will be under warranty during my ownership. I just didn't want to have to keep dealing with repairs even if it is under warranty so I was just curious if two replacements indicated more will follow or if the newer seals seem to be working.

    Only concern I would have if I have the story and time line correct from your posts is the car needing a second RMS replaccement when they should have used the "new and improved" seal the first time they replaced back at 30K service. To say a swcond one is needed now with o nly 4k more miles ( even with a CPO) could be a problem when you try and sell it as you reference in few years.

    On the other hand, this will give you lots of leverage to work the price hard if you are hard-over to buy this car. If you go for the car, see if you can get some more time added to the CPO and again work that price down to low $50's.

    Good luck!! demosan :cheers:

  2. I started hearing a sound from the engine at idle only when engine is warm. It sounds like a dry bearing but it come from the back of the engine, mostly hear it between the back wheel and the door on the passenger side. Only at idle.

    Any ideas ??

    Not sure how many miles are on your car, but it sounds as if it possibly could be one of the the idler pulley (s) or tensioner pulley. Have you replaced and when?? I think it is a part of the 60K maintenence schedule ( I'm sure the belt is, not sure of idler pulley(s)??). If it happens with the AC off, switch on and see if the noise is still present or does it disappear as the idle speed will change slightly. This would give also point to one of the the ider pulley or tensioner pulley beginning to show excessive wear. There are two idlers and one tensioner pulley as I recall. Cost is about $70 for upper idelr and ~$85 for the lower idler and tensioner pulley. Good luck!!

    Demosan

  3. What brand of gasoline do you use? Does anyone use the so-called "No-name" brand at the local corner convenient store? I would like to know why you use your particular type of gas. I am not referring to Super unleaded and such, but the type of filling station you buy your gas from.

    I would appreciate your response.

    jsoto,

    Use Chevron, has one of the best additives for keeping fuel system clean with techron .I don't have any association with CHEVRON, but have never had a fuel problem with their gas ever in any car I drive. here in california I undersatand they use only their refined fuel vs the independents who buy their fuel from the "less expensive" source.

    demosan

  4. Hi gang,

    I just had an annual service done and was advised of an oil leak.

    They said it could trigger a CEL.

    I gave them the go ahead to do it but can't find any labour charge relating to

    it. They have fitted 996.107.237.52 and 2 hose clamps. Where abouts on the

    car are they? The 996.107.237.52 has a brief description as BELLOWS FO.

    Thanks.

    THe part you reference is part of the oil separator circuit and if you had an annual with spark plug replacement, then getting to the bellows ( $15 part here in US) not tha tdifficult. It does require some removal of some parts like airbox to make access easier. Loren or another Porsche tech could give more specific time to replace bellows.

    If you do a search for Oil Separator Bellows you should find more info as well.

    Demosan :cheers:

  5. there is a question that has puzzled me for some time. for the sake of argument, accept for a moment that aftermarket bolt-on performance part power gain claims are true. (i don't accept that assertion, but that is a whole other discussion.) aren't some of those claimed horsepower gains overlapping? in other words, i don't believe the effect can possibly be cumulative.

    don't you have to consider the system as a whole? so, optimizing the flow on an engine can gain, say, 10 horsepower. that's an absolute. a cold air intake can't free up those 10 horsepower and headers free up 10 *more*. it doesn't make any sense. am i just looking at this wrong?

    vick57,

    +1 on Loren's comments on his blog!! Well worth the read and I share his sensiments!!

    Demosan ....if something is too good to be true it probably is............ WITHOUT STATISTICALLY CONCLUSIVE FACTS :soapbox:

  6. I found a good 2002 C4S with the advanced technics package and the design package. Any idea what those packages included?

    Kevin,

    I have a 02 C4S with the techncs package. It includes the up-graded Bose stereo as well as the 6 CD changer, Bi-Xenon package and headlight washers. Not sure about design package. HEre is the My 02 ordering guide with pricing that you may find helpful. 2002porsche_ordering_guide.pdf

    Good luck with your search!! demosan :cheers:

  7. I had the front end redone as well as the ground effects. I went to put the under-body panels back on the car that I had off to do some work and get the car painted and I saw that they let loose with an automatic self tapping screw gun all the way along my side skirts! I am really looking for someone with some imagination. I am mortified and speechless. You could probably add a little pissed to that. Has this happened to anyone before. Please give me ideas here can they even repair the metal to prevent rust? I sincerely doubt it as factory holes for ground effects cuase premature rust. This is supposed to be the premier body shop in KC. Most of the high end Stealers use them???

    ViolaGT3,

    Based on your description of the body shop using self-tapping screws I share your concern for future possible corrosin/rusting. DId the shop tell you if they used a silicone like sealer on the threads of the the screws before assembly?? Are the screws stainless steel?? If the answer is no to both questions, then you could request they reinstall the srews with the silicone sealer and that should help prevent future problems, although I don't understand why they wouldn't have used the clips or adhesive tape I understand Porsche recooends for the installation if they are a "high-end" shop.

    Good luck!! Demosan :cheers:

  8. Hi All,

    I'm new to RennTech, and I'm looking into a used 2002 996 C4S. I have a few questions that I hope seasoned owners can answer.

    1. Is the RMS problem in 996s as bad as the 986 Boxster RMS issues? Engine reliability issues? Reading this forum does scare me a little.

    2. Is it better to buy one with 40k miles or one just over 45k miles but has the 45k mile service done. When should the clutch be replaced on 996s?

    3. Any must have option / option codes?

    4. Anything else to watch for?

    5. Price, they are all over the place. Most independent dealers on the west coast are listing them for 42k to 44k, I have seen high 50k for ones with super low miles too. Any idea what's a fair price?

    Thanks,

    Kevin

    Kevin,

    I agree with pretty much all that Danyol mentions in his response. I bought my 02 C4S 18 months ago and I took 3 months to find the "right" car for me, i.e. low miles, Bi-xenon headlights etc. As others have mentioned, there are lots for sale out there these days and insist upon a PPI with leakdown test. Will cost you around $300, but well worth the cost in determining if there are any obvious issues needing attention.

    As far as your specific questions, I would suggest that any car with 40-45K miles would have already had an RMS replacement if the motor required it. As far as clutch life, it is largely determined by driving habits of previous owner(s). I'm sure you have read there are folks who have gotten over 100K miles out of first clutch and others who have had to replace in far less because of auto X or aggresive DE events or just plain old abuse.

    If this is your first Pcar, the 02C4S will be a great car for you as it comes with the upgraded suspension and appointed interior, however I wanted the BiXenon package and dimming mirros which are elements of the Technics package. Even sound system upgrade is marginal ( Bose and CD stacker) so be prepared for some disappointment here.

    Given my own paranoia in reading many posts in this forum dealing with the issues of RMS and intermediate shaft failures. I searched for a car with an extended warranty. This is a personal preference, but gives you a "piece of mind" for some time while you introduce yourself to the car.

    Lastly, and most important, my car has been a real blast!! Bought with low miles and took it easy for first three months and now use the car as nearly my DD and smile everytime I get into the car for a run. They are great cars and the widebody is as asthetically appealing to me as any model Porsche has ever produced IMHO!!

    Good luck with your search and take your time!! Lots of great cars out there ( including those in this forum selling their cars looking to upgrade to newer models). :cheers: demosan

  9. After all these questions i just receice my Durametric cable and find all work fine !!!

    I dont know how to use actual values and drive links of this software.

    need help

    porsche boxster 1999 model european 2.5 L

    michael

    on DRIVE LINKS panel says that i can reset some thinks with the engine running but it is very complicated . Does this function of the software works on my model and what functions can i regulate with this?

    thanks michael

    Michael,

    I would call Durametric and I'm sure they can step you through the diagnostic steps using the drive links function. I have the Durametric myself, but have not had to use this function ( yet!!).

    Demosan

  10. I am in need of replacing my rear tires but upon reviewing the OEM specs I noticed that the front and rear have different tire wall sizes (i.e. Bridgestone Pontenza S-02A (Rear) 285/30 ZR18 (Front) 225/40 ZR18). The issue here is the 30 vs 40. Does anyone know why the front tires are bigger (40) than the rear (30)? Must I replace the rear with 30's or can I replace them with the same size (40) as the front?

    Anyone know what Porsche was thinking about these two different sizes?

    contact

    BT,

    Short answer is the larger rear tires ( lower profile) are to provide a larger patch ( traction) in the rear to compensate for the heavier weight distribution being in the rear of a rear engine porsche. The rolling diameter of the front and rear tires are the same.

    Demosan

    Sorry, but the "rolling diameter" is NOT the same. The diameter of the rear's are about 1/2 inch shorter. Check your own car using a level and measure to the pavement from the top of the tire. With the same diameter rims, which is OEM, it stands to be logical that the front's with a "/40" vs "/30" wall height would higher. I am not interesed in changing the rims since I do not intend to change tire width, but am wondering why the front's would be designed to us a higher wall, hence larger diameter?

    BT,

    You are correct that there may be a slight difference in "rolling diameter" in some of the standard factory fitments of tires, although the difference is not as significant as you think as the sidewall height is theortically calculated by the product of width and aspect ratio. For example, for my C4S, the standard tires are 295 x30 rears and 225 x40 fronts (18's both axles). The sidewall height of the fronts would be calculated as 225x.40 or 90mm. Rears sidewall height would be 295 x 30 or 88.5mm. SO you are correct there is a difference of 1.5mm, which is within the guidelines of being with 1-2% of theortical to ensure the AWD performance of the drivetrain is not compromised. I am not trying to sell myself as a tire fitment expert here as I had some of the same questions when I replaced the tires recently on my C4S. If you go to the tirerack.com website, there are several articles dealing with Pcar fitement issues that you may find helpful.

    Regards, demosan :cheers:

  11. I am in need of replacing my rear tires but upon reviewing the OEM specs I noticed that the front and rear have different tire wall sizes (i.e. Bridgestone Pontenza S-02A (Rear) 285/30 ZR18 (Front) 225/40 ZR18). The issue here is the 30 vs 40. Does anyone know why the front tires are bigger (40) than the rear (30)? Must I replace the rear with 30's or can I replace them with the same size (40) as the front?

    Anyone know what Porsche was thinking about these two different sizes?

    contact

    BT,

    Short answer is the larger rear tires ( lower profile) are to provide a larger patch ( traction) in the rear to compensate for the heavier weight distribution being in the rear of a rear engine porsche. The rolling diameter of the front and rear tires are the same.

    Demosan

  12. Anyone!!??

    Airbag light is on and my durametric won't clear it. I'm pretty sure one of your PST2 or PIWIS tools can clear the airbag light. Anyone in socal area have one of these tools that can help me out. I can stop by whenever... the sooner the better.. even today!

    BB, Where in SOCAL are you and what was the fault code you saw with your Durametric tool?? I have cleared my AIRBAG light many times with my durametric??

    Demosan

  13. For a daily driver I am asking the forum what you would recommend for a daily driver tire. This has not and will not be tracked. I have a 2002 C4S with 18" wheels and P-zero's which are getting ready to be replaced I like the look and feel of the P-Zero but they are quite noisy.

    Thanks in advance

    :renntech:

    soutahc4s

    Soutahc4s,

    I also have a MY o2 C4S and I just recently replaced my P-Zero Assymmetrico's ( that were extremely noisy) with Kuhmo SPT's. I do not track the car either and I am sure I will get flamed by some here as the kuhmo's aren't approved by Porsche and don't carry the N-spec designation. However, when I researched others choices and recommendations on this site, several recommendations came back with the Kuhmo's and they were half the price of the Pirelli's. Wear rating of Kuhmo's is also nearly double that of the P-Zero's ( 340 vs 180). They are also very quiet and have been good in the rain. My $.02!! demosan OBTW, you can get them at Dicount tire for about $800 drive away price with roadside hazzard included. :cheers:

  14. Thanks Demosan,

    My coolant tank was replaced on my car, when it was new, maybe twice. But I will double check - should I see lots of coolant in the overflow tank? This fluid is quite oily, the coolant shouldn't be oily should it? I did feel under the reservoir tank filler area, and it didn't feel wet. But I couldn't get underneath the tank itself.

    -James.

    James,

    SOunds to me to be a leak from the coolant reservoir tank which is located on the passenger side in the engine compartent. DO a search and you will see it is a common problem and probably requires replacing the tank. How do you know the leak is brake fluid vs coolant?? Easy check for tank is to see if tank is low or have your garage pressure test the system and that will confirm coolant leak and location. demosan

    James,

    It should be easy to see in your coolant reservoir as to whether the coolant is low as a result of possible leaking. There is a "full mark" on your coolant tank for cold and hot. If you do have a leak in tank, it may be a small one if your tank has already been replaced recently, although there is no guarantee of this. Best indicator would be checking level in tank.

    On the other hand, if the leak is brake fluid, then you should see an indicator light soon informing you blake fluid is low. Get the car checked ASAP as either leak could be problematic if it isn't diagnosed and repaired soon.

    Demosan

  15. Hi,

    I walked out to my car at work this morning, after having driven in 14 miles from home a few hours ago, and there was a puddle of a thin, oily fluid under the drivers side tail pipe. Looking closer, it appeared that there was the thin, yellowish oily fluid dripping from the underside of the tail pipe, not from out of the end of the pipe, but having dripped from above it. It appeared to be dripping from some body work above in the pipe, but I haven't been able to see exactly where from yet.

    Oh dear.

    Anyone got any ideas? I haven't started the car yet, but the brake pedal feels normal, the master brake level in the front of the car is around half full, and there is no fluid from anywhere else on the car. It doesn't appear to be clutch fluid (what does that look like?).

    I find it strange that brake fluid would be leaking that far back in the car though...

    Thank you for any help. I guess I will get it booked into my local Porsche guy for this afternoon, but any info you can give would be much appreciated.

    -James.

    James,

    SOunds to me to be a leak from the coolant reservoir tank which is located on the passenger side in the engine compartent. DO a search and you will see it is a common problem and probably requires replacing the tank. How do you know the leak is brake fluid vs coolant?? Easy check for tank is to see if tank is low or have your garage pressure test the system and that will confirm coolant leak and location. demosan

  16. Phillip--

    I paid $37,000 for the car, as is..

    here's how. I work for a dealership. we took this car in as a trade in. I had our service department review the car and everything seemed to be fine, but It had a minor leak, which I assumed was the RMS, everything else was fine. The car is spotless.. garage kept. PO claims he was never rough on it, and it has all service records from day one.

    I drove it a few days before contracting up on it.. bought it and the warrant on November 30th.... but it wasnt until this past weekend when it threw the CEL and started running rough.. also when idling after warm, the check engine oil pressure light would come on. I marked this as well up to a RMS leak. I only got to drive it a total of 100 miles..

    I still feel like I got a great deal on the car, but that will change if the dealer is correct about it needing a motor. I certainly had no idea.... but with it giving misfires codes, I don't think this is the case.

    billyc,

    I also bought a car with an extended warraty from Fidelity that was transferred to me upon purchase. I haven't had to use it as of yet and it expires 01/08. My P is a 02 with only 29K miles and I am interested in renewing for a few more years. Was your 2 year warranty on your 03 expensive to purchase?? It will give me a benchamark to use in my dicsussions with Fidelity.

    Good luck with your problem and I agree with others, it sounds more like an ignition problem rather than a intermediate shaft failure which as you know creates a total engine failure immediately after failure and takes the motor with it....

    I'll be curious as to how Fidelity handles your situation and best of luck!! :cheers: demosan

  17. The cover for the GPS antenna is clipped in place. It just pulls off, or worst case stick a plastic putty knife under it and pop it off . The issue is that the plate that the GPS antenna mounts on is held in with 2 torx screws that are difficult to get at without pulling the defroster vents up and out of the way. The vents are just held in with spring clips, so just pop them out of the way (putty knife again)to get to the screws. You don't have to take the entire defroster vent out, just pop the clips closest to the center antenna cover.

    You need to pull the antenna mounting plate out of the way to get the GPS antenna lead down to where the radio will be. I taped the end of the antenna lead to a coat hanger wire to push it down from the top.

    Be sure to cover the area around the defroster vents, etc. with masking take to protect against scratches.

    OE, ra

    Thanks for the response and I have (since sending my note) essentially stumbled into following the same steps you have suggested. As a result, I have removed the alarm/sunsensor plate after removing the 2 torx screws, but am still having a tough time routing the GPS antenna cable to the dash TP location. I have also "popped" the defrost vent on the drivers side close to the GPS antenna mounting location as you suggested hoping that would make the GPS cable routing easier but still have not been sucessful with getting the cable routed to radio location. I am using a soft wire for trying to find a routing path as you suggested with no luck. Now that you have confirmed I am on the right path I will continue with this approach.

    It appears my 02 C4S coupe is a bit more difficult than the the cab installation as all the service bulletins I have read only reference boxer installations. Oh well, no one said this would be easy!!

    Thanks again for your help!!

    coat hanger wire is pretty stiff, and you need to be able to jam it down behind the defroster ducts. I would assume that you have the radio and the A/C controls out so you have a big hole to work with. Just push the coat hanger guide wire down through the hole under the sunsensor plate and look for it below. It will tend to want to go behind the defroster duct work, which is ok because you can get at it from a little lower down.

    Once you see it below, tape the GPS antenna cable to the topside wire, and pull it through. It is a tight fit, but you can pull it through.

    OE,

    Thanks for your advise and I had the ATC control out as well as everything else but the fresh air dash vents ( above the ATC controls). WHen I removed that, the routing is really easy as you can see the opening by the GPS mounting plate. Installation complete and the functionality of the Traffic Pro is really slick for a single DIN GPS and the clean lines of my dash are maintained.

    Thanks for your help as well as BigSquid and first DYI project completed for me!! :thumbup:

    I'm installing a Sirius satellite antenna in that location and I'm having a heck of a time routing the cable. Any other suggestions besides what has been posted? How do you remove you fresh air dash vents? I believe if I remove the vents, I should have better access as well.

    Thanks,

    PorscheWash

    PW,

    I had a tough time routing the GPS cable to the head unit so I removed the "horse-shoe" center vent trim from from the dash and then it was very easy to route the cable through the dash to the trafficpro in my case. T Oremove the horseshoe, I used a plastic narrow putty knife and gently "popped" it out as it is only held in place with plastic tabs that are held into metal clips in the dash opening. You can use some masking tape around the horseshoe trim to prevent any scatching of the dash, although it isn't that tough to remove.

    Good luck with your project!! demosan :cheers:

  18. Hey guys,

    Just a quick hello and intro as last week I picked a nice little '99 C2 coupe, manual, silver over black, 18 turbo twist wheels (yes!), and 49k miles for $29.5k from Autohaus West here in OC.

    I looked pretty hard about 3 1/2 years ago, but at that time couldn't find the car & deal that I wanted.

    But really got the bug again after going to Laguna Seca for the ALMS final race in October....

    I was seriously considering a 993, but I'd like to use this as an almost-daily driver and this 996 was just the right deal.

    Well, I've had a couple nice drives already, and Saturday went out to the local Cars & Coffee show in Irvine (if some may be familiar with that).

    I already picked up a nice set of Lloyd PORSCHE logo mats (black with silver lettering) for $70 on Ebay; really finishes off the cabin nicely.

    Also plan to get clear corner lights at the fender (appear about $25 on eBay).

    Probably also do some Llumar tint at a local place that has done several cars for me before.

    I also polished the exhaust tips with a green pad and some chrome polish and they cleaned up really nicely.

    (Got that idea from one of the threads here.)

    The car drives great, very tight, and has been a California car its whole life. 3 previous owners and apparently each one barely drove it.

    I lived in Germany for 5 years, so I can and do drive rapidly on the highway.

    I'm most impressed with the power that comes on above 4k rpms, and how the 18s seem to stick like gorilla glue.

    If I get a ticket in this thing, it's gonna be a triple-digit doozy. ;)

    2 Questions:

    - The motor seems to be sensitive at very low rpms in 1st gear, like pulling up the driveway (stalled it once) -- is that normal?

    - Does anyone know a source for blue-tinted aspheric mirrors? (I've used them before but only seen clear aspheric on eBay for $140.)

    Thanks and look forward to hanging out here occassionally. :renntech:

    dr,

    I had the same concern when I first got my 02C4S and I stalled it a few times inching it into its garage stall. I aslo have a Saab Aero with standard and that cluth seems more forgiving. Once I got used to the Pcar clutch it has been fine and no more stalls and I can launch at low RPM's with no problem on the flat or hills.

    On the other hand, with 49K miles it could be getting close to a new clutch if the previous owners abused it in any way. Do you have any service records as part of your sale??

    Good luck with the car and hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine!! :cheers: demosan

  19. As the NW enters 40 degree weather, I again find that during the first 5-10 minutes of driving, my '03 996 (18K mi) just doesn't want to shift into 3rd gear. 1st & 2nd are ok, but baulks at third. As the car warms, shifting becomes progressively easier. The colder the day, the longer the warm up needed before I can use third.

    Tried the old truck method of double clutching while going up through the gears (i.e., pulling into neutral, letting out the clutch--but no blip with the throttle like you would if you were matching gear speeds going downward) -- but has no effect.

    The car is still under warranty. Is this typical or is there something the dealer should adjust?

    Thanks.

    Not sure how long you have had this car and if this is your first "winter" with the car, however, I believe this is normal as I have the same shifting issues when the temp is cool even here in San Diego. If the shifting becomes more normal when the car warms up after driving a few miles, I wouldn't worry about it.

    Good luck with the car!! dmosan

  20. 2002 C4S

    What's the general feeling about a 5 minute or so warm up of the engine before setting out? Good? Bad? Of no consequence? Everything seems smother with a short warm up but somewhere I recall hearing that just putting it in gear and just taking off is the best thing to do. I'd be interested in any thoughts on it. Thanks.

    I also have a 02 C4S and as others have described, I also start and drive away with no real "warm-up" . Keep RPM's below 3,500 until engine shows up to temp.

    Never have had a seal leak or similar problem ( :) ) with my car using this method.

    demosan

  21. the more i hear or should i say read the more i am throwing out all the myths out the window. What does a clutch run?

    I haven't had to replace mine yet on my 02C4S, but in reading many posts on the subject of clutch replacement it costs around $1100 for the complete clutch job, i.e. parts and labor. Parts are around 4-500 including pressure plate, clutch disk, and throw-out bearing. Labor around $600. If you need to replace flywheel, that runs another $1,000.

    Others who have recently treplaced theirs can quote you precise $$'s.

    Demosan

  22. I'm looking at the Kumho SPT's, but I'm interested in input on rear tire sizes. I have an '02 C2, with 285/30/18 Michelin Pilot Sports. For the type of driving I do, I don't see a big upside to dropping over $1K on 4 new shoes, so I'm looking at value (the Kumhos on my 914 have been great so far).

    My question is...what sizes can I go with on the rear wheels? I see 295/30/18--are these on option for stock wheel size?

    Thanks for your help.

    Chris

    Not sure if you have stock rims on your C2 or not, however I have a 02 C4S with the 11 inch rims in rear and run the 295-30-18's which are stock on the wide body's. Unless you have 11 inch rims ( with the appropriate spacers) I do not think you can run the 295 widths on your C2 with stock rims.

    Demosan

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