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catmanluge

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Posts posted by catmanluge

  1. What a great Idea! That is neat!!

    do any of these fit 996 c4s 2003? i am planning to change IMS bearing to LN. do I need these or is LN kit sufficient?

    You can safely and effectively change the IMS bearing to the LN version without any camshaft locking tools.

    Wayne Dempsey of Pelican Parts has come up with an ingenious way of locking the sprocket on the IMS tube (which is behind the IMS flange,just on the other side of the engine case) by using three 25mm long set screws that get substituted for the IMS flange bolts. Those set screws press against the face of the sprocket (which is inside the engine, on the other side of the case) and prevent the sprocket from moving (or altering the timing). Simple, effective and fool proof, and you don't even have to find TDC and use a locking pin.

    Regards, Maurice.

  2. I agree its usually the slave cyclinder!located above the transmission..

    I would first try bleeding the clutch hydraulic system to make sure there is clean fluid and no air bubbles in the lines.

    If that does not fix the problem, it could be a faulty slave cylinder mounted at the clutch bell housing behind the L/H/side rear wheel.

    If neither of the above, the clutch itself could be at fault.

  3. I went the $5.00 route had no problems changing tubes....

    I have a 2000 996 C2, 6 speed, 90K miles. I have oil leakage from the spark plug area, and am assuming I have bad spark plug tube o rings. Given this, I see that the price of replacement tubes is not much more than just the o rings. Should I just buy the new tubes? Also, I have found spark plug replacement instructions, but was wondering if anyone has instructions on how to remove and replace the tubes. Thanks

    PS - kind of ironic that I can't escape tubes that leak oil in Porsches - I have replaced push rod tube o rings on my 914's and oil return tubes on my 911 SC. I understand that the later 996 and 986 engines do not have the tubes - is that right?

    TomCat:

    Here is a set of instructions on Pedro's Garage Web Site: http://www.pedrosgar...Y_Projects.html

    Regards, Maurice.

  4. I think from your photo you have the latest version of AOS. The smoke is not coming from that o-ring seal. If its not sealing correctly you will see oil leaking in that area. No leaking oil than the seal is ok..

    Some cars tend to smoke on start up even with good operating AOS systems. But cleaning your intake tubes and TB is a good idea as residual oil can be trapped...

  5. Check out Todd Holyoak's articles he has done several and is real articulate..

    Thank you for your response.

    Check out Pelican Part they have several articles on engine swaps. Look up Todd he is the expert in swaps as far as DME are concerned. The machanical part is easy the electronic can be a problem. The air intake and exhaust is another area you should consider as these can restrict power..

    I have looked more into the IMS bearing and that seems to be the culprit. As far as bolting it in and wiring it up I have found conflicting answers from what you have replied with. Quoted from Pelican Parts, I found this:

    "You can swap in any replacement engine of the same displacement from 2003-08 without having to remap the DME. (I.E. a 2003 Boxster 2.7L with a blown motor can accept a 2005 2.7L engine with no remapping needed)."

    Cited: http://www.pelicanpa...Engine_Swap.htm

    As far as the remapping, I have seen mainly the same answers around the board. Please send any links telling me otherwise. As far as any performance upgrades(larger motor), I am going to pass on for now as I have too many quick cars. I would just like this car to be up and running as it is a Texas car (Very clean both inside and out) and I will be giving it to my sister for her graduation gift. (This is her dream car for some reason. I can not afford to give her a 911 Turbo.. Although, I wish I could.)

    I have looked into the motors, and they all seem to be in the same price range. Thank you for the recomendations.

    Cliff notes:

    Same motor.

    DME remapping (conflicted answers)

    Sister graduation gift :cheers:

    I don't have enough money for a 911 Turbo..

    Many good rebuilt motors for sale in the same price range.

    Best regards,

    Sean.

  6. Thank you for your response.

    Check out Pelican Part they have several articles on engine swaps. Look up Todd he is the expert in swaps as far as DME are concerned. The machanical part is easy the electronic can be a problem. The air intake and exhaust is another area you should consider as these can restrict power..

    I have looked more into the IMS bearing and that seems to be the culprit. As far as bolting it in and wiring it up I have found conflicting answers from what you have replied with. Quoted from Pelican Parts, I found this:

    "You can swap in any replacement engine of the same displacement from 2003-08 without having to remap the DME. (I.E. a 2003 Boxster 2.7L with a blown motor can accept a 2005 2.7L engine with no remapping needed)."

    Cited: http://www.pelicanpa...Engine_Swap.htm

    As far as the remapping, I have seen mainly the same answers around the board. Please send any links telling me otherwise. As far as any performance upgrades(larger motor), I am going to pass on for now as I have too many quick cars. I would just like this car to be up and running as it is a Texas car (Very clean both inside and out) and I will be giving it to my sister for her graduation gift. (This is her dream car for some reason. I can not afford to give her a 911 Turbo.. Although, I wish I could.)

    I have looked into the motors, and they all seem to be in the same price range. Thank you for the recomendations.

    Cliff notes:

    Same motor.

    DME remapping (conflicted answers)

    Sister graduation gift :cheers:

    I don't have enough money for a 911 Turbo..

    Many good rebuilt motors for sale in the same price range.

    Best regards,

    Sean.

  7. There is a snap ring about 1/2 inch from the end of the axle flange that does create some resistance. I few light taps with a wood mallet should be enough to get it to seat propertly..

    Tranny problems

    So I decided to replace my rear wheel bearing myself and save the 1000.00 the not so local guy wanted. Found out I could pull the carrier and take it to a shop and for 50.00 have my old bearing pressed out and the new one in. Well that’s true except…when I pulled the carrier off, the axle, together with the CV joint and I believe the joint flange pulled out of the tranny. The car was tipped so I lost some fluid, but the problem is now I cannot get the joint flange which is still attached to the axle to go back into the tranny. It goes in to within about 1/2 “ of pressing into the seal. It goes in far enough to insert into the spline, because I can turn the opposite wheel with the car in gear and the axle I’m working on turns. Any ideas out there of why that CV joint and assembly will not seat all the way to the seal in the tranny. Hope this makes sense to someone who has worked with this before. My email is rwyma@att.net if anyone can shed some light on this. I can’t even get it to the point of taking it somewhere, and if I do, my wife hinted I could live in the car too! She’s not happy,$$$. FYI, I have been working on Porsches since 1977 and many other types as well, so I am not a novice. Use to be changing a wheel bearing was a ½ hour job, if you took a 15 minute break…no more. Any help might just save my marriage!

    UPDATE: I removed the circlip at the end of the shaft and the spline slid right in up to the seal. Its seems that clip was holding it out. But if thats the case, why did it come out of the tranny to begin with. It is there I assume to hold it in the tranny. Any ideas how to get it in the clip on the shaft?

    Thanks for any help.

  8. Some have cured the problem by welding a baffel inside the muffler. In fact I had the same problem but it was gone after I put on an aftermarket exhaust system.

    I would say that this is not the normal way an engine should behave today,absolutely not a Porsche engine at least.

    But from what I have read on several forums and from my own experience I would say that it is a wellknown fact that this happens, especially on 2,7 engines ( my own theory is the longer stroke here)

    Variocams adjust earlier and later but not at 3000 rpm. Only thing that happens at 3000 is that the resonance flap moves in the air intake system.

    I will not be cured by new engine mounts but probably more difficult to notice after a change.

    I have also tried a new DMF without the slightest difference.

  9. There should be no problem using studs as there is plenty of room under the motor. If you apply heat to the bolt before attempting to remove it you may have better luck with less breakage.

    What did you end up doing Maurice?

    Did you convert to the stud and nut setup (if I understood it correctly)?

    And did the header make much of a difference? I have had a set of eBay headers with me for almost 3 years now. Haven't got around to installing them.

  10. Check your gas cap. I keep getting all sorts of Fault codes then looked at the gasket in the gas cap it was cracked. Replaced and no more fault codes. Cheap fix.

    Using the Durametric tool on my 2003 I get a Fuel Tank Ventilation Fail under Engine Module, Ready Status. I do not have any fault codes. Any ideas would be appreciated.

  11. Hi,

    I have a sticking piston in my RF caliper on my 2001 Boxster S. I found caliper seal kits, but they only contain the dust seals - not the piston seals. I've seen references to people replacing the piston seals. Can anyone tell me where I can find caliper rebuild kits - or caliper seals?

    Looks like the pistons are two different sizes in the caliper.

    Thanks.

    Contact "hrpworld.com" they will be able to help you with knockback seals and other parts to rebuild Brembo calipers

    Catman

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