djomlas

thats a good idea, i wonder if that will work.

when i remove the wheel liner, will i see the headlight from there?

yea but i cant seem to pull the headlight out at all...so i cant get to those.

is there any way possible to somehow remove the headlight from the outside?

so i changed the bulb in one of my headlights the other day.

today the one in the other headlight burnt out, great.

so went to the store, got new bulb, and friggin headlight is not coming out.

i know that im doing it right, as i just got the other light out few days back, and just for the hell of it i took the other one out to find out if the tool is stripped by any chance...nope, works fine.

is there any way to get the light out from the outside? possibly sticking something under it and push that little hook?

any suggestions are appreciated guys.

thx

^

yea that

whats the torque requirement for wheels?

i got a new torque wrench, but havent tried it out yet

thx a lot, i will inspect those once i have the hardtop off again

thx for the reply, and indeed i didnt change the whole shaft, it didnt even coem w a rubber part, i probably will switch it then.

how do i tell if i have old cables or not? and how hard is it to switch them?

does anyone have pictures of the inside of the muffler and how it needs to be mosified.

i searched and came up emptyhanded

thx in advance

heres what was the problem guys.

went to the dealer, and they dont sell the cap alone, but the whole handle thing.

i bought it and installed it, top works fine, but is there any place i can get just the cap? couse thats all i used from the parts i bought, and it was like 70 dollars, i dont think that 70 is a good price for a little white cap.

btw, on the other side its a white cap, passinger side was red

oo ok, i just wanted an estimate to know what i shold be looking at if/when whaever breaks

thx

well how much $ would it be for either one of the scenarios?

THANK YOU A LOT

man, you dont even want to know what i was about to disconect.

so i jsut stopped and figured i would ask more.

man am i glad i didnt do anything stupid, so i just said to myself, stop it Mladen, and ask some more questions.

thank you again, for a good explanation and pictures.

i will attempt this tomorrow morning after a root canal (ouch)

I modified my original exhaust by going into the entry pipes on each side of the muffler and cutting two 1" holes on each side. This effectively vents the exhaust into the outside chambers, bypassing the first chambers in the muffler. The sound is great. No resonance at all, a mild exhaust sound at all RPM's, and a definite rumble when I've got my foot in it.

I'll add that I drilled three 3/4" holes through all of the elements in each of the second set of catalytic converters, opening them up quite a bit. That helped the sound as well! (and the power)

do you have a picture of this?

i tried looking for the parts you guys describe, looked at pictures in manual, but when i get to my car and look there it doesnt look the same.

so i have no idea what to pry off of what...

what about those side skirts, where can they be picked up from?

this happened to me before, and it started working agin.

how can i make sure that its either one or the other? <- i dont want to buy parts and it turns out that its not whats broken/faulty?

i have a 98 box.

today the top would not go down. few hours before that the top was down and everythign was fine, put it up and then later on couldnt get the top back down.

the light on the dashboard shows a picture of top open, or whatever the light means.

my parking brake light is on (and when i put it down no response from the button, so that is all good i assume).

so heres whats happening when i try to open the top.

i would push the latch and both windows would go down.

push the button and all i hear is like clicking noise from the back, like its about to lower it but never quite gets there, push button the other way...same scenario.

so far this is what i checked:

fuses seem to be all fine.

and the big relay on top of the fuse box i pulled out and shook/tapped a little, that didnt help either.

i took the top part off where it latches up and sprayed it w contact cleaner hoping that some connections are loose...no help

any other suggestions?

top is now up and latched up, but the light is still on.

maybe take it to a shop and see if they can fab something up for you....you never know, there way be a simple trick.

good luck, and post up some pics when you get something done

ok so after 230 miles, no CEL. but today only 1123 came on...i figured after that many miles it would stay off

drove another 40 or soe miles, no CEL again, i think that just while i was putting it in the evo intake and while it was sittinout while i was doing it, and i tried cleaning it the wrong way w a paper towel might had something to do with it.

now its been cleaned a few times w the contact cleaner and its all good

well so far after 60 miles no CEL came on regarding those codes.

it actually did but my gas cap was open so that was a diff code.

i put seafoam in my old car, its was a 98 camaro ls1, and ther was soooo much white smoke coming out, after that the car ran smoother and idle was much more better too

carjust fit 60k miles.

i cleaned the MAF and reset the code, so i will see how long it will keep going (hope the CEL doesnt come back on).

the MAF is stock

i dont want to dish out the money on MAF if im not sure that its MAF for sure, you know?

one question though, as stupid as it may sound, but after cleaning the MAF, would the CEL turn off by itself, or will i need to manually erase it with the obd2 reader?

ok, cleaned the MAF with the contact cleaner, no lock :(

anyhting else i should try? whats the best way to find out if its the MAF or anything else?