Gundo

Wow! $675 seems quite high. When I did the litronic upgrade in my car I sold the electronics (module, etc.) to another member here on Renntech for $100.

Umm, I paid $675 for both litronic headlights. BTW, the "retail" price of the litronic module is $193.90.

:notworthy:

Loren - thanks for the advice - the TSB is perfect and has every bit of info I need. It is absolutely fantastic that you host them!!

I've installed both left and right Litronic headlights into my 2000 Boxster S. I managed to find relatively reputable sellers on fleabay and was able to purchase them both for a grand total of $675 including shipping. Beware of the disreputable sellers out there - I think many of the Litronics on fleabay have been stolen or are otherwise incomplete.

Anyway, Toolpants or Loren, can you please tell me the part number for the module that will cause the low-beams to tilt up by 3 degrees when the high-beams are activated?

Sincerely,

Gundo

:beer:

Pretty sure all the module does is raise the lo-beam up by 3 degrees when you activate the hi-beams.

They should outlaw those aftermarket HID kits. I'm pretty sure they are in California.

These aftermarket HID kits are pretty common in the U.S. now and they are a true menace. Several times I've been driving down a 2 lane road at night when some idiot with the HID replacement lights comes zooming at me, blinding everything in his path. The non-OEM HID bulbs create so much stray light, they are blinding. These kits can be found in any number of SUVs, which are also quite blinding.

This is a good link about these annoying "upgrades"

http://www.thecarconnection.com/Shoppers/B...S185.A6011.html

In the end, please think carefully about this mod.

I have been through the wringer on the center console story. Ordered one from some dude that I trusted, it was crap. I sent to Bumperplugs, nothing they could do to fix it. I even painted one myself using all the right paints. Came out okay, but I was not happy with the result. Finally did what I knew should have been done all along - I ordered one from Eric at bumperplugs.com. The finish is absolutely unreal. As for the install, best bet is to remove the cd stack & lower trays below the upper center console. Then the center drops right in. But in the end, Eric's products simply cannot be beaten.

And rather than adding the cat bypass pipes, just stick a metal rod down the secondary cats to break up the obstruction catalytic element, then vacuum out.

I have not done this and do not advocate it, but it certainly is a cheaper and easier option than buying the fabspeed bypass pipes.

Thanks Loren!

Need to replace the high tone horn in my 2000S, but would like part nums for both high and low in order to replace both of them.

Thanks in advance! :cheers:

If you are on a budget then you own the wrong car.  Sorry for being so blunt but it's the truth.  I enjoy a challenge as well (as I am sure most do) but there are some things that you just don't take on....this is one of them.

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Check out www.eastwoodco.com. They have a couple of different primers that prep the plastic to take a good paint bond. From my limited experience, they work quite well.

You can get a very good result with a modest amount of effort. But if you really want a Porsche quality result, Bumperplugs.com is the way to go - everything I've gotten from Eric is top, top quality.

....Please let me know if anyone has any questions.

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Any chance that you could pdf the factory convertible removal/installation instructions? I've been wanting to remove my softtop as I almost always have my hardtop on. It's the lacking in instructions that keeps me from doing it. The plastic window will form a permanent crease and eventually crack if I were to store it in the down position for months on end.... :(

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If all you want to do is remove the convertible top mechanism, its really, really easy.

1) Put top in service mode

2) Disconnect 3 bolts on each side (where top arms connect to rollbar)

3) Get a friend, pull entire top off of car.

Only 2 probs I see is that

1) you have to store top and it will still be partially folded as it is in service mode

2) you'll have to put clamshell down without top on, possible mis-aligning transmission and top when you try to put back on.

....Please let me know if anyone has any questions.

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Any chance that you could pdf the factory convertible removal/installation instructions? I've been wanting to remove my softtop as I almost always have my hardtop on. It's the lacking in instructions that keeps me from doing it. The plastic window will form a permanent crease and eventually crack if I were to store it in the down position for months on end.... :(

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If all you want to do is remove the convertible top mechanism, its really, really easy.

1) Put top in service mode

2) Disconnect 3 bolts on each side (where top arms connect to rollbar)

3) Get a friend, pull entire top off of car.

Only 2 probs I see is that

1) you have to store top and it will still be partially folded as it is in service mode

2) you'll have to put clamshell down without top on, possible mis-aligning transmission and top when you try to put back on.

I'm cross posting this from another board. LorenS has promised to capture as much information as possible about Boxster engine failure modes.

Read on:

As promised last week, and due to a significant amount of interest, I have created a "Boxster Failure Survey Form" for everyone to download. Instructions are on the form. I will be using the collected data to create a Statistical Failure Analysis for Boxsters. This efort will take me 3-4 months (weekends)depending upon the number or respondants.

Please note: It is very important that I get a significant number (hundreds) of responses. I want to hear from everyone, whether or not you have had a failure. I regularly read this board but not others, so if someone can provide a link for Babblers and any other forums, I would appreciate it. Deputies, can I please get a banner link to this form? It's in all our best interrests.

The collected data will be used to compile a database for present, previous, and future Porsche Boxster owners; and only pertaining to engine/transmission failures.

After I receive a significant number of responses, I will be correlating this data into a computer analysis matrix, looking for patterns, and attempting to create a statistically accurate “Boxster Failure Prediction Formula” for all of our use. All collected data will be made public upon completion of my work. The level of accuracy depends on the amount of responses and me and my computer finding correlation and patterns within the data.

I have no motives for this endeavor other that wanting some hard data on this long, ongoing PPBB discussion issue. I am not employed by PCNA, and have no association with anything related to the auto industry. Please get everyone you know who has had a Boxster to fill out a form.

To download: Turn off any download accellerators, click on the link, go to the bottom of the page, click on the free button, and click on the file to download.

Survey Form Boxster Failure

Finished this up yesterday and just got a chance to take her for a ride. The car actually feels faster with an Arctic Silver rollbar. Not sure about the coat hangers, but the 987 has them in Arctic Silver, so I thought I'd give it a shot. I'm liking them so far.

This hack was much easier than I expected, with the rollbar removal taking no more than 1 hour, with reinstall being about the same.

I've not received the little bits to remount the rollbar padding nor the windblock yet.

Any pix of the hood removal? I may want to replace the hood with a glass windscreen one.

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Sorry, no pics of that, as I merely removed the entire convertible top in one piece. That glass windowed top would need to be installed on your current frame crosspieces - and from what I've heard, that is quite complex. Perhaps best left to the pros?

what paint did you use?

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Used Arctic Silver paint & clear coat I ordered in spray cans from www.paintscratch.com. $29.99 a can for the Arctic Silver, but result was fantastic. Better than I thought it could have come out.

So I'm working to repaint my rollbar and decided to remove it.

Its actually quite easy to remove complete top assembly - just three bolts on each side where top meets rollbar. Rollbar is held in by just 4 bolts on each side (2 per leg)

Here's the proof:

Here is another way to paint it:

Not sure about the anti-seize, but I do know, the only easy way to get at the plugs is to remove both rear wheels - no way you could do it from passenger compartment....

Found it - a spark plug oil tube extractor

Available for order here at $99

Spark Plug Oil tube Extractor

Lefteris over on PPBB does it all the time - he carboned just about everything in his Boxster

What an awesome thread - thanks guys for the level of detail provided - I'm just about to replace the tubes in my car - check out the pics of the oil leak below the #2 spark plug on the driver side....

I'm in the middle of this project now. I can't see any way you'd be able to change the plugs from the top side of the motor - they are most easily pulled out with both rear tires off the car.

You'll need to do the following:

Safely Jack Car, support on Jack Stands

Remove Rear Wheels

Remove Plastic Wheel Well Liner in forward location of each wheel

Remove Spark Plug Ignition Wire

Remove two hex hed screws holding each spark plug coil in place

Pull gently on rectangular spark plug coil to remove

You'll be left with spark plug still in car, about 6" inside the outer edge of the motore

Remove and replace each plug.

All plugs are relatively easily accessible, with the plugs closest to the front of the car being the hardest to get at.

Good time to change your oil too!

Here's some pics:

Drivers side of motor, showing middle spark plug galleyway with coil removed

Drivers side of motor, rear most plug, with coil removed

Spark plugs (the dark one was in the leaky middle cylinder

Cheers!

Gundo

ANyone know the part numbers for these:

The prior owner of my S dragged his feet and SCUFFED them up something fierce

Bummer he can't do any better than $3K. I can tell you though, the upgrade is totally worth it - now that I have broken them in, I've been able to test their limits - and the braking is definitely more effective than with stock. A really tremendous improvement.

The rotors are special in that they are standard S rotors that have been milled to fit the ebrake. My understanding is that there is not much that has been milled off, but yet, they will be special order when its time to replace them, but given the rate I put miles on the car (97 with 32K miles) I don't think this will be a problem.

Good point though, it may be worth ordering an extra set to have on hand in case Race Technologies disappears....

Well, I spent about an hour last night switching the crossover tube and the bleed screws. All went fine, but boy, those compression nut wrenches would have been very handy. I used some electrical tape over the painted compression nuts and didn't really bugger up the paint too bad. They came out pretty easy.

The harder part was switching the crossover pipe. It is assymetrical and is bent such that it cannot fit the lower part of the caliper without being bent a bit. So I bent it as needed, but am not 100% comfortable with the quality of my pipe bending. Next step is to have Suncoast send me out a replacement part to make sure its perfect.

Superbly detailed wheel wheels by the way!