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magnum

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Posts posted by magnum

  1. Planning to drop th engine this winter to perform the coolant fittings fix by welding. As the same time, I am going to replace all hoses, gaskets and etc

    I am having hard time to find the part #s for all hoses and related seals/gaskets. Can you help? I found this diagram from rennlist but no part #s.

    Thanks,

    post-14913-0-02458000-1321840878_thumb.j

  2. Got the car back from dealer today. The shaft sealing ring 997-102-265-91 replaced with 2 hrs labor.

    Hi Magnum... I had a similar oil leak from the rear end of my '04 GT3 engine at 12,700 miles. It was fixed under warranty at my dealer. Since it was under warranty, they did not document the the time nor charges. The leak was at the rear end of the intermediate shaft seal. I'm looking at my service invoice and trying to remember what exactly was done. They do list removing and replacing the coolant pump and associated washers/seals. I believe they had to R&R the pump to get at the IMS seal. They also replaced and exhaust clamp and gasket, impling that part of the exhaust, and possibly the rear bumper, had to be R&Red to get to the seal. You should get a good analysis of the location of the leak before proceding. Let us know what you find.

    Craig,

    Car is going to dealer next Wed. The bugetary quote is $450. Looks like just replacing seal. Hopefully, nothing else! Will post back. Thx

    Mike

  3. Hi Magnum... I had a similar oil leak from the rear end of my '04 GT3 engine at 12,700 miles. It was fixed under warranty at my dealer. Since it was under warranty, they did not document the the time nor charges. The leak was at the rear end of the intermediate shaft seal. I'm looking at my service invoice and trying to remember what exactly was done. They do list removing and replacing the coolant pump and associated washers/seals. I believe they had to R&R the pump to get at the IMS seal. They also replaced and exhaust clamp and gasket, impling that part of the exhaust, and possibly the rear bumper, had to be R&Red to get to the seal. You should get a good analysis of the location of the leak before proceding. Let us know what you find.

    Craig,

    Car is going to dealer next Wed. The bugetary quote is $450. Looks like just replacing seal. Hopefully, nothing else! Will post back. Thx

    Mike

  4. This is the first oil leak I experienced on this car. Car has just under 10k miles. The oil leak from one of the pulley (with rusty bolt) at the rear of the car. Please see below pictures. Do you know if it is FMS leak? My next track event will be in 2 weeks. Can I fix it after the track event? How many labor hours do I expect from the dealer?

    I am not afraid if someone can provide a precedures. thx

    Mike

    post-14913-0-52749400-1306205140_thumb.j

    post-14913-0-95625300-1306205150_thumb.j

  5. I purchased a car with PSS10's on it a few months ago and I get some major bounce with the front on the highway. I've tried adjusting them to full soft, full stiff, front full soft/rear stiffer etc... but the bounce persists. It seems like the rebound isn't there at all on the shock and thefront end will pop up really high over certain rolling bumps on the highway. Is this normal? How can i tell if they are shot and am I SOL if they are less than 1 year old but the ownership of the car has been transferred?

    thanks in advance,

    Dennis

    Hi! Not an expert, but I do have PSS10s and this does not sound at all like mine. How much drop do you think they went for? Perhaps you are hitting the stops. Just a guess.

    Yeah, i originally thought that since i couldn't fit my finger in between the tire and fender, so I had them raised .5" and can now fit a finger between the tire and fender with 26" tall tires. The ride did get better but the bounce is still there.

    When I got the car, they were set on full stiff (past 10 where the dial won't turn anymore), i've heard this can damage them??

    Hmm. I had a question a while back and had a nice chat with the team at Billstein. Took just a couple of emails to get a real technical expert. To "zero" the settings, it turns out you actually tighten them all the way and then just back off one click. This is "10." The clicks are pretty close, but not sure that full stiff would have damaged them. Worth a call to the experts I guess.

    Isn't it 10 is softest and 1 is stiffest? It is the case for PSS9 9=soft clockwise, 1=stiff counterclockwise.

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