ziiz996

Bumping this old thread...  Had the same whine.  Ignored it for years.  Lately it started whining AND smelling like STRONG burnt rubber..  This behavior is kinda similar to my ex's.  Lol.   Guess no longer an option to ignore.  Previous feedback should make it much easier..  

@@Loren.

Good to know that you're still our Shepard on this site.   Thank you for the thousands of collaborations over the years.

BTW, Who said 996s are not reliable.  Had it for 21 years (Knock on wood). Tok Tok..  Still puts a huge smile on my face when those RPMs hit 6900 in the twisties.   Am also driving now a much newer insanely fast n smooth DSG 500HP S4..  A lot of fun,  but..............There's something about that 911.

Cheers my friend for life.  

Listen to Loren. he is the expert.  He was hinting that you might not need to replace the tensioner.

It is a pretty intense job.  You have to remove the air filter box, throttle body, loosen and remove the A/C compressor, The Power steering pump /fill reservoir and the Intake manifold cylindrical chambers that connect the 2 intake manifolds.  You can remove the left  intake manifold to give yourself more room,  A lot of cables, air and coolant hoses are also in the way.   Once you get to the tensioner and after you remove the pulley of the tensioner, you go around the back side to remove the arm  and unbolt the old tensioner.  To install the new one, is also a complex process that can end up messing up your mechanicals that are driven by the belt.  The power steering pump alone is a nightmare to remove and its reservoir connects to a plastic hose that if you broke it, you will end up paying a fortune to replace.   Pay a Porsche dealer not an Indy to do it.  trust me. 

Taking a step back, why do you want to replace the tensioner?  Use a Breaker bar to move the tensioner pulley easily.  it makes it 90% easier to rotate clockwise.  WITH THE BELT ON THE PULLEYS, If you can rotate the serpentine belt to 90 degrees from its normal position between the Alternator and the water pump then your tension is fine.  Use Porsche belts.  Spend your time AND MONEY on installing a 3rd radiator, it IS a better investment for your engine and your driving experience.

I posted my simplistic MS paint version rendition of what a Panamera profile should've looked like almost 8 years ago.  Some Readers went up in arms trying to leverage the ugliness of the profile of the first Panamera generation with functionality!!!  HOWEVER, AND FINALLY the newest generation of the Panamera mitigated this artistic FAUX-PAS and it looks great!

The major changes were applied to the profile of the car getting rid of the ugliest hump that cringed every stomach of every car enthusiast on the planet..   Unfortunately or Fortunately,  I can no longer find the (rather controversial) Topic that I originally posted...

TO all those folks who experienced clunking problems AFTER upgrade/replacement of control arms of any sort.   99% most likely the install was not done properly.  There are Coffin Control Arms, Fork Control Arms and Drop Links.   They must be installed/ AND TORQUED  properly or you will hear the Clunks.  

Follow up. 

Be careful purchasing non Porsche parts.   Apparently there are 2  wheel bearing parts numbers that *** (Porsche OEM) sells.  The auto parts suppliers indicated that they are not identical in Diameters!!!  I am ordering a Porsche genuine part to mitigate this situation.  

I was able to remove the old bearing using tool below and  the with a new  wheel bearing.  I used a breaker ratchet  and still it went in very tightly.  I used a long bolt with a disk (Picture below) that is the size of the hub shaft in the front and a large disk (metal) in the back and a long NUT.   Refer to toolkit below;  

I had the HUB in the freezer and put some Kroil on the hub before inserting it in the wheel bearing; HOWEVER the front wheel hub went in too easily in the wheel bearing! with a ratchet breaker bar.!!! 

When done, I noticed that the hub had a some play and I could see the red rubber outside seal ring was moving as well!!  Could it be that the new wheel bearing is defective?  Remember that the 

The Keyboard froze on my last comment.  I wanted to add that the outer race was stuck on the hub when I removed it and it took a lot of force to remove the old race.  actually it ended up breaking and finally came off.  But the hub shaft looked OK.

Actually it is the OTC 6575 not 6775.  I stand corrected.

BTW, I have the OTC 6775 tool.

so if I loosen the 3rd Lower control arm bolt after I mark it, will that allow to lower the Knuckle?  Do I need to support it from BEFORE I loosen the 3rd bolt?  all other control arms are still connected, but loosened.

Could use some professional  knowledge on this topic. 

1, Can you replace the wheel bearing without removing the front Knuckle from the car.  The strut is in the way behind the knuckle for me to insert wheel bearing removal tool.  Looks like the knuckle needs to lowered 2 or 3 inches to make clearance.  I loosened 2 of the 3 the coffin control arm bolts except for the bolt connected to the sub-frame (the 2 bolts one for Fork control arm and one for the bottom of the Knuckle).  I loosened but did not remove the bolt for the strut/Drop Link). 

2. If I remove this bolt and loosen the 3rd coffin arm bolt do I have have to mark the threads before removing?  I read somewhare that that bolt needs to be torqued after unjacking the car.

3. Would that allow me to lower the knuckle a few inches to access the back of the Wheel Bearing?  Alignment issues?

Help is much appreciated.

Thanks JFP!  Your diligence has been impeccable.   Yes the car behaved exactly as you stated...  Your feedback has been priceless...

Thanks for replying!  AOS was purchased from Sunset Porsche.  The car is no  longer smoking. 

I tried removing the oil cap while engine is running, it was tough to remove, but doable. 

It felt like there was suction. 

Is the engine supposed to keep running flawlessly after removing the oil cap?  OR does the idle rev higher OR does it become low and stutters?

hi There Carlos

Its been a few years.  you probably drive a 991 now!   Do you recall what caused your new AOS to fail?

The Problem was solved!!! 

The way I had the o'rings was correct!  However, the problem was that the return line pipe was slightly kinked.  I was able to finally remove it by positioning an 11mm wrench around the red locking Oring and pushed.   

After straightening the return line, it went in all the way, with a lot of small little pushes and a lot of silicon spray on both ends.

Hi Loren

I have a question about the RED locking o'ring for the return line. 

1. Removal was straightforward.  I pushed the Red Plastic Locking o'ring toward the back of lower reservoir and the return line came right out smoothly.

2, Installation problems.  I had to transplant the RED locking O'ring from my old PS Pump/Lower Reservoir to a replacement pump/Lower reservoir because it was missing on the replacement reservoir..  The plastic Locking Red O'ring popped right out.  Inside the return line cavity where it came out from was a regular rubber O'ring.  The Question is: Does the rubber O'ring FIT around the latching gripping arms of the plastic Locking RED O'ring  then the RED locking O'ring is inserted in the cavity of the return line OR does the extra rubber O'ring go in first, and then the RED Locking plastic O'ring goes in next? 

I tried the latter option and the Return line did not go in as smoothly as it came out and stopped about a quarter inch from its expected final location.  Also, when I pushed on the Red Locking O'ring to re-remove the return line, it did not feel as it felt when I originally pushed it when I removed the return line from the old reservoir. AND the return line is STUCK and can no longer be removed.    I  don't want to force the return line out of the reservoir because it looks like it is too fragile and breaking it will turn into a nightmare of towing the car to a Freon removal facility, removing the AC compressor, replacing the line, reassembling, re-charging the AC system.  etc...

Any suggestions are much appreciated..  

if it is rubbing on the clam shell, eventually, it will damage the paint job and you will see a line on your shell.  address ASAP.

FOLKS!

The 996's will always run warm. Do not bother with changing thermostats and fan switches. The solution is sOimple....

CHANGE BOTH RADIATIORS. PERIOD. THIS WILL RESOLVE YOUR PROBLEMS 100% (ASSUMING YOUR COOLANT BOTTLE, AND CAP ARE NOT DAMAGED.

COMPLETELY DRAIM AND REFILL COOLANT WITH PORSCHE PINK COOLANT. DO NOT ADD 50% WATER... JUST COOLANT... RADIATORS ARE INEXPENSIVE.. I DID IT TO MINE. AND THE TEMP IS TO THE LEFT OF THE 8 IN THE 180 GAUGE. IF I PUSH THE CAR, THE WATER PUMP ACTUALLY COOLS THE SYSTEM EVEN MORE. WHEN I GET BACK TO NORMAL DRIVING, THE TEMPERATURE RISES TO MID 8 IN THE 180 THEN GES BACK TO THE LEFT WITHIN 2 MINUTES.

I GUARANTEE IT.......

Hey Ultramens!!!

Is your starting problem permanently fixed?

Do you know where it is located in the car?

Can this be a DIY case?

Thanks,

I have the same problem, the car needs two or three starts when engine is hot or is the sun after driving it generously!!!

I hit the animal on a very dark country road. I thought that poor animal was surely splattered all over the road. But when I turned around, I saw nothing! And I swear that I did hear the animal roll under my car and heard a crackle of some sort in the back of the car. I thought for sure this was the poor animal's skeleton being crushed but it was not because the animal was not on the road.

I did not notice that the radiator was broken and leaking fluid until I pulled into the driveway and saw steam come out of the front of the car. Could it be possible that engine overheated and blew a head gasket? or is it possible that the crackling noise I heard in the back had something to do with the oil cooler or something else? I called Porsche and told them the symptoms and their response was to replace the engine if I found oil in the coolant.

Thanks to you all for a great response, I will update next week after the techs at Porsche have put it on the diagnostics machine and found the problem,

Best Rgds

Sam

I hope that I am wrong Sam (I really do); But your symptoms remind me the Intermediate Shaft failure that I had in my '00 3.4L at 52K. Replaced the engine with a Porsche new 04 3.6L. The only difference is that I heard a rattle before the engine went!

It was the oil cooler..... I'm very happy for you!

I had a big road animal jump in front of my passenger side late one night. When I got home I noticed steam coming out of my passenger side radiator, and found out that the "Little" beast broke my bumper, air collector, spoiler and radiator and my A/C condensor. After replacing the radiator, the mechanic told me that there is now oil residue in the coolant fluid. Can someone please tell me the location of the oil cooler on a C2 Cab 02?

"One ping only during shifting" sounds more like gearbox issues than detonation. Does it ever ping while not shifting??

I'm 99 percent certain it is ping. I had a new car in the early 80's that had a serious detonation problem that the dealer couldn't fix, so I gained a lot of experience identifying the symptoms. The sound is unique and unmistakable.

I never hear it other during high-torque engagements in the lower RPMs in the 2k to 3k range or so.

It's snowing today so I won't get it out for a while now. Just put on a new set of Michelins too.

Hi there pjslowick!

I think I have the same noise that you had a few years back. I hear 1 ping in my C2 Cab 3.6L engine! Did you ever figure out what happened??

That sucks!! Sorry to hear that... Don't mind me asking but how much $$$ are you out so far?

When I drive my car in the summer for a while (hour or so), park the car, then restart it in about 30 minutes or so, the engine turns but the car stalls. If I restart it with a little more gas and rev it a bit, it starts but kinda the hard way. The car runs fine after that.

Every once in a while, if I warm start it with the throttle half way, it kinda starts with a "loud noise". I wanna say that the noise might be a slight backfire. Any suggestions?

My money is on a dying fuel pump. When it is hot, it is failing. My 986S track car did the same thing. If I let it cool - sometimes that was a couple of hours - it would start. When hot, I had to pump the pedal, and then it sputtered, coughed and backfired. It would run at idle no problem, but when it demanded more pressure, no go. Longer I let it go, the worse it got. It is an easy DIY-er BTW.

Have you looked at where the filter sits? It is behind 2 huge cooling pipes running along the length of the car!

When I drive my car in the summer for a while (hour or so), park the car, then restart it in about 30 minutes or so, the engine turns but the car stalls. If I restart it with a little more gas and rev it a bit, it starts but kinda the hard way. The car runs fine after that.

Every once in a while, if I warm start it with the throttle half way, it kinda starts with a "loud noise". I wanna say that the noise might be a slight backfire. Any suggestions?