Cloudsurfer

Are these "backwardly compatible?" I actually prefer the look of the older vents, and would like to retrofit a set into my 03.

The car is ~8 years old. I'd immediately look at the 90k service list for guidance as it is the most comprehensive of the service schedules. Definitely cabin, air oil filter, crush ring, oil, serpentine belt, tires. With so few miles I'd even worry about the quality of the gas so I might run some techron through the system and maybe some stabul.

On any car, plastic parts deteriorate over time as well as mileage. Candidates for replacement are water pump and watch the anti-freeze tank and the oil filler tank.

I'd certainly agree on most of this, however, things like the water pump and coolant expansion tank do age (in calendar time), but mainly age due to thermal cycles. I wouldn't worry too much about these items, but I would certainly flush all fluids and change all filters. Serp belt and new tires are very wise as well.

To me the only benefit of a PST over Durametric is the ability to code things on the car (engine software, code keys, etc). If you don't have a need for this, save the money and get a Durametric.

Also, on a side note, since the PST2 only really works on stuff up through 9X6, if you plan to get a 9X7 or other newer Porsche, you really want a PIWIS (however, then you REALLY have to open your wallet).

Depends what year, if an 02, it's doable. If an 03/04 it's plug and play with a reflash. ABSOLUTELY do the IMS retrofit!!!!!

Let me first state the proverbial rule of "the cheapest Porsche you buy, will be the most expensive to own." Now, that said, there are a few ways of going about this. If you just want a roller, to put a new motor into (as I did when I bought my 03 S with an IMS failed engine to put a 3.8 into), then negotiate the best price you can get and have some fun (however, a 99 body makes a lot of the "better option" motors much more difficult). If you expect to fix this and get it running, that could be something as simple as a fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, chewed up wiring (which could take eons to track down and fix), or any number of "small things." It also could require a new motor, something you really can't diagnose without at least doing a compression and leak down check. You are also assuming that the people selling the car aren't lying to you (and the "can't get a clear answer" part is rather concerning in that regard).

Also, if you're going to "come up with the money for L&N" (which is really LN Engineering or LNE, not like K&N, who makes air filters), you're also going to need to find yourself a host of really strange, difficult to obtain, and expensive tools that are needed when working on these engines, and you better really know your way around a modern, complex engine to do it. Further, starting with a 2.5 is really a horrible idea, as the largest you could make it, even with a crank and bearing carrier change, is a 2.9. If you want to do the LN route, at least start with a 3.2, 3.4 or 3.6 (all of these can wind up with 99mm bores with Nickies, as they are made from the same castings).

If you want a project, and want to do it the easy/ right way, find an 03 or 04 car (S preferably), and swap a 3.6 or 3.8 in there, or build yourself a 3.8 (or now, a 4.0).

For the record, you are correct in that some 98 and 99's did have pressed in sleeves, which do fail, when Porsche tried to keep car production on line when their super duper "Lokasil" casting machine went down. Whether a slipped sleeve or a D-chunk cylinder wall failure, either would be diagnosed via a leakdown check.

More than likely, if I had to venture a guess, I'd say that the engine internals are probably fine, and that the car has just been neglected. Either way, I'd walk on this unless you could pick it up for almost nothing.

For future reference, you may want to look at 3M automotive "Scotch Loks".

They are gel filled, self stripping crimp connectors that are water proof and made for automotive applications. Come in a variety of sizes, we use them on (and under) cars all the time, never had one come back with a bad connection.

I'm aware of them, and think they're awesome and have used them before. I didn't use them here, since a) I wanted to keep this bundle as close as possible to its original thickness, and since I was only splicing two wires of the entire bundle and wouldn't have been able to get enough wire length from what was left to fit the scotchlok in, without cutting the entire bundle and scotchloking all of the wires.

I made a lot of effort to ensure that my fix is weatherproof (given its location on the car) and am confident it will not cause future issue :)

I'll agree with others: run a compression and leak down check and see what that tells you. If the internals of the engine seem OK based on the results, then look at the air/oil separator and coolant/ oil heat exchanger. If you get that far, change the oil and flush the coolant and go drive it around. If you get intermix and/or detect combustion gasses in the coolant, then you've either got a blown head gasket or internal engine issues (slipped sleeve, D-chunk liner failure, head crack). If you have none of the above, congrats on getting a killer deal (I'm assuming you didn't pay much for this car). If it's a blown head gasket or cracked head, that can be dealt with for not an obscene amount of money. If you have internal engine issues, time to start shopping for a motor.....

Kind of thought that would be the situation; in any case, it still is not that bad a project.

Just finished! Took me about an hour, the tire debris only actually cut 2 of the wires, so I cut back the obscenely thick insulation on the whole assembly, spliced in some new wire to repair the damaged two, heat shrunk those two that I had to solder in splices, and then used liquid electrical sealant and electrical tape to put the whole thing back together, and slid some split sheath around the bundle to offer some added protection.

I'm pretty confident this should be a long lasting fix.

Just an FYI. The owner/dealer mechanic put the clutch disc in free of charge just to upgrade the clutch that was in it. I paid nothing for it. He just threw it in during a Rms changeout. (also no charge). I figured I would be more concerned about not replacing the Throwout bearing than the flywheel. I also was given the clutch disc for free as well (thrown in for purchasing the car). So if I have to pay for a clutch job... Well I only have to technically pay for it once :)

While you make a point, I'd say the real thing that would concern me about this situation is mindset/ work ethic/ professionalism of the guy doing the work. While he tried to do you a "favor," he also certainly tried to keep his own cost of said favor down. It's pretty much standard practice to replace clutches as assemblies, so if he's cutting corners on this, what else is he short changing you on?

Did some digging, and those wires do join that giant loom in the rear trunk, and there is no disconnect in them, so I guess it's time to do a little soldering....

I recently had a tire fail and shred itself to pieces, and in the process, tire debris really tore up the wiring that runs up from the hub carrier into the rear trunk area that carries the wheel speed sensor and brake wear signals. Is this section of wiring replaceable as a unit? I have to figure it's offered for collision repair, when wheels get ripped off these things....

You do come up with interesting problems…………… As I believe your car is a 2003, I think the news is bad: The ABS wiring circuit diagram does not show any disconnects other than the ones near the actual wheel speed sensors. Some of the earlier years had a disconnect just inside the trunk area, but that seems to have disappeared in the later models like yours. You may want to do some exploring, as I have found the connection locations in these diagrams to not always be completely accurate. In any case, the wiring is nothing special, so you can do some splicing to get back on the road.

Haha that I do! Yes, the car is an 03. I'll have to do some investigating. I'm assuming this runs into that giant loom that runs below the DME in the rear trunk, hopefully there is a disconnect so I can replace the whole mess. Otherwise, I guess it's off to splice and solder....

The pressure plate was not replaced. However... I took it to my mechanic and he stated that the clutch was fine but the smell was the exhaust coming into the cabin with the top down (and sometimes up). His explanation was that there is a vacuum effect when you get on the throttle and you will smell some exhaust due to it being a "convertible mid-engined" car.

Please verify if this is true. If not, as it is exhaust and not clutch related, what could be causing it?

I would NEVER re-use a pressure plate (the only exception being a race clutch with a beefy pressure plate and a thin clutch disc, where you can get away with it due to the short life of the actual friction material). Clutches end their lives both due to loss of friction material on the clutch disc, as well as the pressure plate losing its ability to provide enough of a clamp load.

Assuming your car is stock (meaning it has cats), and is running properly, there should be virtually no smell of exhaust (perhaps just a bit during the first minute while the cats light off from a cold start), and even so, raw exhaust smell is completely different from burning clutch or brake pad smell. If you're smelling clutch, and you haven't been hammering the brakes, that's what it is. It's entirely possible that your clutch is slipping, either due to improper installation, a weak pressure plate, or a glazed/ damaged pressure plate or flywheel.

Take the car back to whoever did the work, if they truly are reputable, or find a shop who is. The more you drive this the way it is, the more you're going to ruin the new parts you just put in.

They are "plug and play" once you swap the fuse, but, if you want the low beams to angle up when you select the high beams, you'll need to add the little computer that is part of the retrofit kit.

I recently had a tire fail and shred itself to pieces, and in the process, tire debris really tore up the wiring that runs up from the hub carrier into the rear trunk area that carries the wheel speed sensor and brake wear signals. Is this section of wiring replaceable as a unit? I have to figure it's offered for collision repair, when wheels get ripped off these things....

I've got a good used one laying around with 50k miles on it if you need it.

Girodisc are nice rotors, but they only change the rotor, not the caliper. Unless your C2 is making considerably more power than stock, the calipers you have are more than adequate with the right pads and good, fresh fluid. I am also working with a brake supplier to produce two piece, aluminum hatted floating rotors in stock size, that will come in cheaper than Girodisc.

Change the oil and filter; a good time to get rid of the Mobil 1 as well................

GREAT time to get rid of Mobil 1 :)

Thanks Loren!

If I completely remove a CDR23 and amp (in a MOST-bus car), will this ***** off other things and/or cause issues reading out DME codes and/or programming?

Given how cheaply you can find low mileage cats from dismantled cars, that strikes me as a much simpler option. Call Oklahoma Foreign and talk to Gary.

I recently had my IMS bearing replaced (LNE product), RMS and clutch (disk/pressure plate/throwout bearing) + oil change -- for about $2700 (including labor, parts & tax).

I think Porsche should have given owners better support on this. Obviously, their solution was the 997.2 engine.

On the other hand, when you look at the service requirements and costs for other (genuine) high performance cars, $2700 is a drop in the bucket. We have tended to become so accustomed to Porsche reliability that people buy these expecting to get the kind of no-issue reliability that they got with their low-tech, low performance transportation-vehicle engine. If you want simple reliability and transportation, there are many Fords, Hondas, Toyotas, etc., which will do an outstanding job for you. They are genuinely good cars. They merely have limited entertainment value. Anything you pay for cars that's above basic transportation is for entertainment. If it's not that entertaining or the cost is too high, then don't.

But there are countless cars & engines that have required you to stay on top of particular issues or weaknesses. It's unfortunate that the IMS is one of them. (Note that some of the Porsche engines in the mid 70's also had IMS bearing problems.) What is important to me is, once the bearing is replaced & the RMS updated....there seem to be no other, consistent, big issues with the engine -- other than a soiled reputation. Are there other service items like the radiator reservoir or the AOS?....yep. But they are more "accessories" rather than representing something wrong with the engine itself.

If I can do some simple preventative maintenance and the engine will be solid..... excellent. The car gives me a wonderful combination of a good ride, handling, fuel economy, power and general dynamics.

Well, while I haven't heard of any of the LN retrofit bearings failing, there is still a potential for that to fail causing great damage to the engine. Even Charles recommends that that bearing be replaced every time the gearbox comes off. This also makes no mention of things like cylinder wall failures, collapsed lifters, worn out lifter trays, cracked heads- all things which qualify as "major problems." I think it's pretty clear in the fact that the GT2 and GT3 engines are STILL built on the old GT1 case halves, as Porsche KNOWS that those don't blow up.

In closing, let's just say that the company who brought you the 996 and Boxster is NOT the same company who brought you the 930.

There are numerous American and Japanese performance cars that last way past 12 years without having to replace an engine. My point is the parts are way overpriced. I also have an old Chevrolet Suburban with 100,000 miles, no problems and no worry about IMS bearings, cylinders, RMS, etc. Parts are cheap as well. Chevrolet was able to build a very dependable work horse engine that would last for well over 100,000 miles.

I consider any car an investment because you expect to get some of your money back out of it. Today's cars (12 years old) should not be it's death, especially when the original price was $70,000 in 1999! Porsche should have addressed this particular engine with all cars not just the ones that blew up under warranty (because that shouldn't happen to a car with 30,000 miles)!

Wow! Engine gone at 60,000 miles! And we pay a fortune for these cars and a fortune for parts! Congratulations? For what?

NADA retail = car $29,000 and put a $25,000 engine in it! That is robbery! Thank goodness you had a warranty. I believe Porsche is a great car, but for parts to be 5x the cost of other car makers, I don't believe it is worth it! You can get the same performance from much cheaper cars. I am giving up my Porsche dream and going to get rid if my 99 996.

I am really regretting my purchase at this point. I bought a 1999 996 C2 and I have already spent about $3,000 on fixing things and I still have to put a torque converter in it? Also, I probably need to do the rear main seal and IMS bearing. Anyone want it for $18,000? I will be losing $4,000! I'm done.

I guess I was never under the impression that a used German performance car (of any make) was a good investment. You buy them because you love them.. Not because they make sense financially. Like any used german performance car a warranty is always a good idea. I had a 996 blow up on me (no warranty).. I was mad but it didn't stop me from buying another one (with a warranty.)

By the way your car is 12 years old.. Just sayin...

I'll agree that there are plenty of cars (of all makes and from all continents) that make it well past 100k without things blowing up, but to compare a performance car to your Suburban isn't exactly a solid argument. The M96/M97 engine has several design/ manufacturing flaws, and the right thing for Porsche to do would have been to follow what Mazda with with the early RX-8 engines, and just warranty them to 100K. The fact that so many people have paid out of pocket to replace engines that didn't even last 30k is an absolute crime in any car, let alone one that isn't cheap.

The only bearing upgrade is from LN Engineering, and is about $600 in parts plus a little bit more labor than a clutch job. Now that I've been inside a few of these things, including building the LN updated 3.8 that's in my car, I don't think I'd want to own any of these things if they didn't at least have the IMS bearing upgrade.

Last I knew, ALL re-man engines had a 2 year, unlimited mileage warranty. Also, last I knew, there was still a recommended break in procedure. LOTS of things here do not add up to what you've been told.

Perfectly normal. Until the oil pump pumps up pressure, you don't have any oil pressure (which is why a significant percentage of engine wear occurs during starts). The gauge and idiot light are just confirming this.

C4's are AWD, and thus you actually have three diffs center (which is part of the transaxle), front and rear. However, both front and rear diffs are open (unless you have installed an LSD in there), so my guess is that one rear and one front would spin, but you're never going to get power to all 4 wheels this way if traction is an issue.