flyingpenguin

This is what it looks like right now. First extended drive completed without any issue. Slightly more precise shifter feel (duh.. less slop) 🙂

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Last week, on our way from Holland to Hamburg, I had to reverse into a slot at the gas station when I lost 1st/2nd and 5th/reverse gears. Carefully manoeuvring the hot exhaust and cats, I managed to attach a zip-tie to the detached linkage where the rubber insert had perished (old age?)  

Gear 1 thru 5 selectable again, but due to the slop (both top and bottom) no reverse..

Porsche's official solution is an upgraded set of shifter cables (986-424-041-10) and linkage assembly (986-424-913-06) at a cost of over a thousand euros.

Recently acquired a 3D printer and started messing with tinkercad (a browser based basic version of autocad).

Came up with these inserts that appear to have fixed the problem at a cost of less than 2 euros in filament (PETG) and a couple of hours of my time.

Insert with socket for lower (8mm) ball joint.

Securing plate that gets glued to the backside of the insert.

Still had some slop in the whole linkage making it very difficult to engage reverse, so popped the upper ball joint loose, sliding off the securing clip. Rubber / plastic pretty worn, so identified the culprit slop.

Designed this insert that fills in the worn plastic and fits perfectly over the top ball joint (10mm)..

Problem solved (hopefully) 🙂

STL files available on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4925982/files

Replaced the lower control arms (#9 in pic) on all 4 corners a while back, but still noticed rattles when going over cobble stone roads (of which we have a lot here in Europe). Also when lifting off the throttle at speeds over 30/40 kmh, I noticed a vibration coming from the right rear, similar in feel to the rattle when going over rough surfaces, albeit less intense.

Time to replace the a-arm / control arm (#8 in pic), suspecting play in the ball joint. Thought it'd be informative for you guys to see the difference between a good (used) one and the defective a-arm. No subtitles in the video, but you get the gist. The bad one moves ever so slightly, certainly noticeable to the touch..

Test drive confirms my suspicion that the rear vibration also had its root cause in the a-arm. 🙂

"As I surmised, I had managed to swap the cam and crank position sensors."

It happens to the best!

Several years back had the same issue, but male and female connectors are color coded (grey for crank and black for cams IIRC), so will pay better attention from the get-go next time..

Did a traceroute to www.renntech.org using different ISP's and they all timeout with a hop at provider DATACATE in Chicago, IL..

No issues on VPN as stated before. Very strange..

Hi,

I am located in the Netherlands and using the Chrome web browser, www.renntech.org will not load (ie. it times out).

Using the Opera web browser's built in VPN feature, and connecting through their US server, the site loads fine.

Is this by design?

Rgds, Joost

Reviving this old topic.

Recently acquired a '97 stuttgart built 986 that came with a hardtop (a first for me) that the previous owner had never installed. Figured out I needed to install the B-pillar receptacles (see below) but could not get the locking levers to fully engage in the rearmost position.

After a lot of fiddling around, I managed to get them to lock all the way without using too much force (which could break the small 3mm pin that affixes the lever to the locking bolt) by loosening (just a bit) all 5 x 5mm hex bolts on either side, allowing the bracket to move around just enough that it would position the bolt correctly while making the final 20-30 degrees of locking twist. Not sure if the little squirt of WD40 helped, but don't think it hurt..

Once the levers were in place, I pushed down on the top - holding the hardtop down to properly seal around the tonneau, and fasten all 2 x 5 hex bolts. Going to leave everything in place for a while so it can settle and keep an eye on the seal over the next few days.

Time to replace the window regulator..

Idle Air Control Valve?

Good way to diagnose is to hook up a code scanner. Sporadic misfires don't show up as CEL immediately but will get stored in memory. Durametric is a good option.

2000 cars are e-gas IIRC.

The noise is normal. It is the tac motor holding the plate in position. It goes away when running because the throttle plate is always moving very very slightly to keep idle speed. Some cars are louder than others. The noise you are hearing is the h-bridge circuit switching back and forth very fast to keep the plate in place.

High on my wish list.. Quite pricy though.

Crank Position Sensors on the bell housing are known to go bad. These are cheap and easy to fix.. Not suggesting you randomly throw parts at the problem but had this happen on several M96's (my own and others').

Are the NITTO NT01's available down under?

997.1 GT3 only has one radiator fan. Right side if I'm not mistaken.

Although Spec Boxsters are based on the 2.5 liter 97-99 version of the 986 (and yours is an 3.2 liter S), you will find a lot of useful build info on the relevant forums. See here for an example: http://www.porscheclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/POC-2017-GCR-BSR-BSX-Boxster-Spec-Rules.doc.pdf

I have driven a lot of street Boxsters on track and compared to full blown track cars (or very track focused street cars, eg GT3) the suspension always feels very soft. And stickier tires never hurt either. But once you start messing with these kind of upgrades, the slope get progressively slippery and before you know it you end up with something that's neither fish nor fowl. Your streetable track car ends up a horror to drive on the street, or your street car still leaves a lot to be desired on track.

Something else to keep in mind that these M96 engines have top end oiling issues under higher lateral g-loading (in Boxsters that's bank 1 turning left / in 911's that bank 1 turning right), hence the allowance for an accusump in the race cars. 

Probably throw out bearing. These usually get replaced when clutch is done, so maybe verify that it was indeed replaced at 125k.


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I'd do a little surgery first and remove the door panel for proper diagnosis, keeping previous post advice in mind. It could be that the glass pane has detached from its holder or a cable guide has popped out of its socket.

Good luck and love to hear back.

When you say ventilators, I take it you are referring to the radiator fans upfront. From your description, the fan motors appear to be operational, so it must be something in the control electronics or the wiring to the fans. Proper diagnosis would require something like a Durametric cable & software, allowing you to activate each fan separately.

Hi Peter, the Hankooks you are using have a tendency to "cup" a bit when they are standing for a while. I have found that the issue is worse with lower psi's and in colder ambient temps, but goes away after a few miles of driving as tire temp goes up and centrifugal force rounds them out.

I run these tires on 3 cars and apart from this issue I like them a lot.

On your Boxster keep the cold pressures around 35 psi and see how that affects the vibration.

Joost

See if there are any exhaust leaks before the cats, ie. from the exhaust side of the motor, down the headers to the cats. Any air that seeps in would dilute the exhaust gas and could fool the O2 sensors into thinking the engine is running lean...

Frayed wire making noise while going around the pullies. I got a salvage replacement part in good nick for less than $40..

Non-OEM replacement parts are pretty cheap too. Around $60 online..

CPS in my vocabulary stands for crank position sensor. Sorry for the confusion and late reply. Any luck?

I just replaced this one this weekend on my 99 Boxster after messing with it a couple of times (trying to revive it). The vacuum line should hold a vacuum and if not the diaphragm is shot.

Mine DID hold a vacuum (suck on it real hard and you'll find out), but the diaphragm was stuck and the valve would not open, thus throwing a P0410 & 1411.

Bore > Stroke = less low end torque.

As a reference, the cylinders of the 3.2 engine have a bore of 85.5 mm and stroke of 78.0 mm.

So keep the revs up!