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seafeye

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Posts posted by seafeye

  1. I think the 2005's are going to bring down the prices of the 03-04's.

    Here is one for $22k. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u...;standard=false

    You are right on the money with $20k for an 03-04. You should be able to get a nice one for that. I was looking for an "S" in those years to replace my 99 but then I love my car and if i wait another 2 years i should be able to get a Cayman for a reasonable price. Maybe under $25k in 2012?

    http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u...;standard=false

    THANKS ALL for your replies and advice.

    As for price, I've settled in on the $20K price range and from I can see, I'm right in there for a '03 and maybe an '04. I think South Florida (West Palm, Ft. Lauderdale & Miami) is a HOT (so to speak) area for Boxsters. Unfortunately, many of them are end of lease sales and their records are incomplete.

    MIKE: I've read your complete guide on buying etc, and when I read it I thought you were talking about me! We seem to be about the same age, have owned a lot of cars over the years and the general advice you gave is exactly what I would give someone else. However, your personal experience with Boxster's was great reading and is invaluable! My preference on the manual vs auto is on the fence. I agree, getting around town with a 5/6 speed is a bit tedious - and the Tip has the advantage of the paddle shifters as a great substitute when a twisty road is found (we don't have a lot of twisty's here in South Florida unfortunately).

    I'll rely on a local guy who I found to do the PPI - he seems very knowledgeable about Porsche cars in particular. Hopefully that will lessen the risk of making a huge mistake.

    I'm looking forward to coming back soon and posting pics of my first Boxster.

    Regards,

    Phil

  2. My apologies. I accidentally posted under the wrong forum initially and didn't know how to delete it myself.

    Can you tell where the leak is?

    Can you tell if it is engine oil or gear oil? Hypoid gear oil has a very unpleasant odor; engine oil smells like, well, engine oil ;)

    Ericinboca,

    Thanks for the reply.

    The leak seemed to be coming from the differential area....unfortunately at the time of the accident it was dark and the plastic under cover concealed the exact location. I did touch the oil...it was light in color and didn't seem to have a noticable odor, but then again I didn't put it up to my nose. I looked again at the car in the yard where it was towed and still wasn't able to see exactly where the oil was leaking from.

    My concern here is there may have been damage to the differential, the transmission, engine and/or the motor mounts due to the force of the impact imparted by the drive axle. The fluid that I saw leaking probably wasn't more than a quarter cup or so, but I didn't know how much could have been pooling somewhere else in the body and/or under cover.

    Any other areas that could have leaked fluid? With such an impact would you have concerns about damage to the suspension bushings? motor mounts or other components? A couple photos included.

    Thanks,

    Jim

    Most of the accidents i have seen from the 993 and up that involved rear suspension ended up cracking the transaxel.

    That hit looks hard enough for to warrent a new transmission in my opinion. At the very least the transmission should be removed and

    looked over. A small leak wouldn't surprise me at all. As for the other parts...I would look at the whole rear suspension, and get

    everything replaced that has a scratch on it.

  3. It is highly unlikely to be the power steering pump. All the pump does is provide power for hydraulic assist. The only way a power steering pump can create a vague on center feel is if it produces too much flow. That can only be caused by a stuck flow control valve in the pump. If that has occured you will note other problems like loss of power assist at idle or when decelerating on an off ramp.

    Your problem is likely one of the following,

    1. Tires - inflation and tread condition can influence what you feel.

    2. Wear in the R&P gear, or worn suspension components or tie rod ends. Check for free play around center with ignition switch in position to unlock the column but with the engine off. If there is play in the steering wheel as you rotate the wheel back and forth holding it with one hand between your thumb and forefinger, you should start inspecting where the plat comes from.

    3. If you don't find any problems with the above, is it perhaps just an ubsubstantiated feeling?

    BTW, I've been a steering engineer at TRW for >30 years.

    Can you tell me if you can buy the ball joints for the boxster seperately? They are a TRW part no? I have searched hi and low and can't find a thing.

    I have a buddy who can make billet control arms but we need the joints...thx

  4. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=cruise+control

    Was the thread I used to do the 4 stalk swap. With parts and dealer time it will cost about 300, gave me the cruise and the OBC. The stalk swap takes about two hours, and 3o minutes of dealer time to turn it on. They have to code the DME, then tell it that it has cruise, the thread above will give more info. After doing this, I could do it again in an hour. Where are you at? Someone might be close enough to help you out.

    Good Luck, Chuck

    I think the newest version of Durametric will turn on the computer. Check them out....

  5. Its a 2000 Boxster S.

    There are two humps by the spare wheel. Do you know what they are for?

    Don't think i have them in my 99.

    And does anybody know if traction control was standard on the 2000 Boxster S?

    I am looking at a low mileage one that is really sweet. Would like a later year but

    it was really well looked after.

    There is a 2004 Boxster S around but they want $24000 for it. I can get the

    2000 S for almost $8,000 cheaper.

    But no PSM on the 2000. No Litronics. No full leather. 17" wheels. Tripple black. 48,000mls. Asking $16,995.

    Full service history. New top with glass window.

    Thoughts?

    post-16847-1259724651_thumb.jpg

  6. Started up a bridge, heard a rattle bouncing off the bridge rail, smelled smoke, dark smoke came from under car near wheel well, and engine quit. The engine does not turn over at all but the car does have power for all the rest. Any ideas? Live in Ft. Lauderdale and would be willing to take anyone out to lunch if they can come over and advise me as to what the problem is. I took the H1N1 shot but the car has the symptoms. Steak if simple and McDonalds if engine. Oh and you have to drive. See ya soon -

    Do you remember what RPM you were at when it happened?

    I believe 100% with Jake that low RPM with the boxster engine is Death. Way too much torque on too many chains.

    Sorry to hear about your loss. I have a 2.5 case if you need it. Cheap

  7. I need to replace the front brake pads on my 2003 Boxster S. I am considering Akebono ceramic pads. Porsche pads seem really dusty. Has anyone have input regarding Akebono pads? If I switch to another brand and type on the front, should I change the rears as well?

    I have Akebono pads on my 2002 S and they are far less dusty than OEM or other aftermarket I have used.

    How do they feel compared to OEM?

    Hey give these guys a try.....comes with sensors...

    http://www.satisfiedbrakes.com/brakes/index.html#

  8. Looking around the web, it appears that changing the pads on a 2003 Boxster is quite easy. What's your opinion? Is it as easy as it appears? Any warnings/suggestions?

    thanks :D

    You might want to look at trygve instructions here: Boxster brake pad R/R

    Take care, :cheers:

    Roy T

    While you are at it....Change the brake fluid. Easy and really easy with these tools...All you really need is the tube with the valve.

    Start with Passenger rear, outside, inside, then drivers rear, outside, inside, passenger front outside, inside, drivers front, outside, inside.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=37201

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=98864

    post-16847-1257449232.gif

    post-16847-1257449240.gif

  9. Here is a partial list for the latest version that I got from the Durametric folks.

    Version 6.0.1.0 Beta

    "Added Coverage for 996, Boxster (986)

    Many new features that were not available in Durametric 5.0 here are some examples:

    - Enabling and Disabling the On Board Computer (OBC) even thought this is technically coding it is included in the both Enthusiast and Professional versions

    - Clearing fault codes on Alarm, along with other alarm features like activations and input signals

    - Brake Bleeding

    - Convertible top calibration on 996 Cabriolet

    - Activations on most modules

    - Coverage for every possible control module on Boxster and 996 new for version 6.0 Litronic headlight control(HBA), Roll over protection, Park assist, Targa control module

    - Coding on some modules

    - Actual Values on more modules

    - And much more.."

    I can't get my computer to reconize the engine module part of the software.

    Everything else works, just can't read that part in 6.0.

    E-mailed the company but heard nothing yet! I have the newer style cable.

  10. Not sure what you mean?

    Best posts? best DIY Articles?

    I would think it would depend on your model and interests?

    BTW... there is a new forum coming when I get some of the mods updated. Things like the Registry, and new DIY section that separates the original DIY Article from the responses - though the responses are linked to the article --kind of "Wiki style". Also PMs will get threading so you can have private "conversations" with other members and it track like a threaded post.

    Support for OpenID and Facebook Connect as well as a mobile skin to make browsing on your phone or other mobile device much easier.

    Here is another look at the work in progress...

    post-1-1256528341_thumb.png

    Yes i was thinking along the lines of one tab that would have the best of DIY articles for all cars in one area. The same for forum threads.

    I know that some would like the models seperate but for me i wouldn't care if they were all together. I like reading about 914's to 997's.

    When i read excellence mag i first go to the diy article. (Sometimes dissapointed). Couldn't really care less about the $1,000,000 cars.

    But that's just me. Great site lauren.

  11. We take our 98 986 w 88k miles on long trips and have had no issues. I do make a good check list before hand to inspect ALL of the fluids and pressure in the tires. I also take along 1 qrt of oil and a small tool kit (better to be safe than sorry) Other than that except for the the cramped qtrs it's a great experience. We recently upgraded the OEM radio to a new Pioneer head unit w/SIRRUS and it makes a world of difference when we are crusing on longer trips. When you do find some open hwy or a nice road with some twists it's allot of fun to enjoy the performance. Have a great trip.

    m2

    Can you tell me which radio you have? I'm fed up the the tinny sound of the OEM radio. Thanks

    I just bought the JVC KD-AVX77. I wanted a fully functional widescreen touchscreen unit and only have a single-din radio in the car and didnt want to do the double din conversion. This unit has everything that I needed and a lot of things I didnt! I havent installed it yet but am planning to this weekend. Its also very clean looking, when its off its just a blank black screen.

    I have taken a couple of 2000ml trips. Ear plugs are my #1 priority. They decrease fatigue by something like 30%.

    Lower back can get sore so i try to move around a bit. Don't forget a spart surpentine belt and a quart of oil.

    Enjoy the drive, great fun!

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