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jimmyq

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Everything posted by jimmyq

  1. The emergency cable for both the engine cover and the hood is easy to get to and use. Simply lift the light assemly slightly from the bottom using a hard plastic flat tool (or rag covered screwdriver) and using a flashlight, you will see the braided cable. There is a loop at the end of the cable that you can catch with a cloth's hanger. Pull on the cable and you are in! Put the cable back under the light assembly and your car is back to normal.
  2. In all the 996's I have driven, the oil gauge acts as follows: When cold and at idle the gauge is at 5. After complete warm up it can go as low as 1.75 on a warm day. It is generally at 5 with rpm's above 3200 when warm. It should never go below 1.5 at idle and should be close to 5 above 3200 rpm. That is with 0w - 40w oil. If you are running 15W - 50W oil, then the minimum will be around 2. If you drop below 1.5 at idle, check the oil level and/or engine temp.
  3. I would be surprised if it was the tranny. They are built pretty strong. I agree that it might just be the linkage.
  4. my996: It is not recommended that you put the car up on jacks during storage as rust may develope on the strut pistons. Rather, increase to tire pressure to maximum and store it on the tires.
  5. Actually, I think porsche calls it the Cam actuator. There are 2 and each are secured to the engine with 2 10 mm bolts and each has a wire coming out of them that is about 12 inches in length and connects to a connector coming of the main wire harness. Bank 1's is on side of the engine closest to the back seat (driver's side) at the level of the cylinders and bank 2's is at the same level buy at the back of the engine closest to the bumper. I have not had the guts to remove the solenoid due to the fact that I am unsure is something will be disturbed upon it removal. It is a $180 part.
  6. All car's leak oil, I havent seen one yet that was totaly oil leak free I am sure you'll get alot of argument about that statement. MOST cars DO NOT leak ANY oil.
  7. Test the switch. Pull the piston out towards the pedal and it should work. If the cruise control indicator is on, chances are that it is NOT anything else buy the switch. Test it for continuity. By the way...the swicth IS above the brake pedal (at least in my 99) If it not there, then maybe that's your problem. This switch should be touching the pedal when the brakes are not pressed. If it is not, then it is stuck in the off position...pull it out.
  8. You might try tightening the clamps when they are HOT. Be carefull doing this so you don't get fried, but it might properly seal the flanges so they don't leak.
  9. Sounds alright to me. My 996 C2 does the same. Gas mileage is a little less than I get. BEFORE my supercharger, I got 27 MPH average on the highway (consistantly over a 3500 mile trip at speeds averaging 85 mph). Around town I got above 22. I will be making that same trip in a few weeks with the supercharged engine and we will have to see what difference the extra boost will make in gas mileage.
  10. There is a switch right above the brake pedal that is probably pushed in. The switch should be touching the pedal arm when the pedal is not compressed. Sometime this switch gets pressed in too far into the locked position. Pull it out towards the pedal and test it to make sure that you can press it in a little and that it returns to the out position when you let go. If this switch is pushed in all the way, all Cruise Controls will look normal but will not work.
  11. Just adjust them so they feel comfortable with your style of driving. I personally like the highest pressures in both front and back. 36/44 and while highway driving 40/44. I run bridgestones and this pressure gives me the best feel for the road and the best handling.
  12. I think you are referring to the cam solenoid cover. The cam sensor is a small sensor (about 3/4") on the opposite side of where the solenoid is. I have not changed the solenoid but it is common that there is a little oil around it's cover. Mine has sweated (not enough to drip) since day 1. Both banks.
  13. The pedal seems easier to push down because your left leg has been getting stronger. Seriously tho...If you have no slippage when engaging the clutch, you have nothing to worry about. I always get at least 100,000 miles out of all my clutches and I drive a car very hard. I use the tranny for braking all the time too. So far, 40,000 miles on my supercharged 996 with the original clutch and the original brakes are barely worn. Replacing a clutch is not a preventive job, but is only done if it fails. Don't look for problems that aren't there. Drive the car and enjoy.
  14. Any of the brand named one are very good. I use them about once a year. By the way...if you use the WRONG kind, your engine's cylinders will start to shrink. Looks like your has already started. You used to have a 3.4 liter engine.
  15. 99 C2 is cable controlled. If you have an OBDII reader you should be able to see the throttle position. As far as I know, unless there is something blocking the pedal from going all the way down or the cable is stretched, you should get WOT. Look at the cable on the throttle body and make sure it is connected right and there is no play in it. If it is on correctly and the cable is tight, I do not see how you do not get WOT when the pedal is depressed completely. Note: The cable comes out of it's proper position on the throttle lever very easily if you get any slack in the cable, Slack would be caused if you opened the throttle from the engine compartment using the throttle lever or if there is a binding in the cable somewhere that catches when you let up on the accelerator pedal. The cable may still stay connected to the throttle lever but in the wrong position...and would be unable to give full cable movement to gain WOT. Good luck.
  16. Why didn't they dyno it during the installation stage? You must have had a pre established program installed along with the chip. Watch your fuel trim and especially secondary O2 sensors. These sensor ust show .85 or above at WOT to ensure you are not running lean.
  17. Had the same problem a ytear ago on my 99 C2. I was about to bring it in to the dealer before the warranty ran out and I crawled under the steering wheel to have a look. The safety switch above the brake pedal had been pushed IN all the way. All I had to do was pull it out and it worked fine. No problems since. It's the plunger switch that rests against the brake pedal arm. When the brake pedal is in the resting position, the switch is activated . When the brake is moved towards the floor, the switch extends out and cuts off the power.
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