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up4speed

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Posts posted by up4speed

  1. I finally found the actual cause of the leak!!

    It was frustrating to find because initially the air seemed to be coming from the F pipe joint of the forward blowoff valve.  Well after taking it all apart and inspecting, I found nothing wrong. So I re-assembled it being very careful that the clamps were straight and everything was pushed on tightly, and unfortunately it STILL leaked!!!  I then took it apart again and used regular worm gear hose clamps and reassembled again, it still leaked!  I had to take it apart a 3rd time, this time really pissed that the car was defeating me. Before I took it apart a 3rd time, I decided to lower the engine a little more to give me even more access since I was determined to find the problem.  This time I reached in all the way and after pressurizing it, I realized that it was the Y-pipe under the blowoff valves! It was difficult to find because the hole aimed the air right at the F-pipe connection and made soap suds (I used a soap/water mixture to help me find the hole) on the F-pipe instead of the source (It's not like I could see the whole Y-pipe with everything hooked up anyway).

    The craziest part is that the Y-pipe looked perfect even after I removed it!  The only way I was able to see the hole is if I stretched the Y-pipe apart, see the photo.

    Well I ordered the part and will follow up with an update after it's in.  It will probably take about a week.

    If there is any good news about this story, it's that I can now change blowoff valves in about 15 minutes flat without too much trouble! Lol

    post-17066-0-54647500-1428281597_thumb.j

    post-17066-0-56870200-1428281882_thumb.j

  2. Here's a document from Rolfjahn on 6speed to help you lower the engine and give you more access to the F pipe…: 

     

    Here's a video to help you with the motor mounts. Remember the square hole on the engine cradle... The base of the engine mount is also square and has to enter this square recess….https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBL2-iy6li4https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBL2-iy6li4

     

    Thanks guys, I'm going to take a crack at it today. 

    I'll post the results

  3. I wanted to give you guys a follow up on my progress with my troubleshooting. I pressure tested the intake today with the tool that I made shown above. It worked great!  I used only about 7-10 psi and unfortunately/fortunately (maybe it will fix the issues!) I had a leak.  I found it with soap and water and I tried to use an inspection camera to get a better look but I still couldn't determine which part it is.  The leak was from the joint of the F-pipe where it goes into the blowoff valve.  Unfortunately it was the deeper valve, the one I can't reach! It figures, ughhh

    I can't tell if it's an issue with the rubber hose, or a crack in the valve. It appears to be leaking at the seam of the connection.
    What are the symptoms of a leak at that location? Would it cause the rough idle issues, or surging?

    Is there a way to remove the assembly (F pipe and valve) to allow me to inspect it more carefully so I can determine what needs to be done?  I can't even get my hand in there!  It seems impossible.  I have to assume that the engine needs to be lowered a little?
    Any help would be appreciated.

     

    I also changed the MAF, MAP and the transmission mount today.  It all went smoothly, however, I didn't test drive it yet because I wanted to fix the air leak first.  Once that's fixed, I will also change the motor mounts.  I will report back with the results at the end with hopes that I can help another person in the future.

  4. Have you tried throttle body recalibration? i.e., turn key to last position before cranking and leave it there 60s (foot off the gas pedal). Then remove key.

     

    Also did you check for any air leak (smoke test) on the engine?

    I didn't do a smoke test, but I'll bring it to the dealer if it comes to that.

    I didn't even know about the throttle body calibration, but I guess I'll do it.  It can't hurt.  I probably "accidentally" did it when I hooked up the scan tool for the photos in my prior post.  I hooked the scan tool up, turned key to on position, then shut it off.  The ignition was on for several minutes before turning off, so I'm pretty sure it was reset.

     

     

     

     

    SHRTFTB1S2 =short term fuel trim bank1 sensor 2

     

    SHRTFTB2S2 =short term fuel trim bank2 sensor 2

     

    I wonder if those sensors are not applicable to my car since the values never change?  The other fuel trim readings seem normal.  If you take a look at post #5, I took a photo of the diagnostic screens that my reader has when it's hooked up with the engine off. It shows the above two readings for the sensors that stayed fixed as well as the other fuel trim readings that seemed to be changing appropriately with the diving conditions.

    Are the readings for STFTB1S2 and STFTB2S2 supposed to change?

    What spark plugs were installed? Maybe it's just a matter of a cold fouled plug? Where they torqued correctly? 

    The spark plugs used on the car (according to the receipt) are:

     (7410) FR6LDC  (I think he meant to write LDU not LDC)

    Those should be correct according to the manual, however I don't know the torque they used since it was a shop that did it before I owned the car.  They were done 3 years and 7,000 miles ago.

     I thought that I read somewhere that cars with a performance tune (I have the Ultimate Motorwerks tune) eat through spark plugs much quicker and it may help to go with one step colder.  Is there truth to that?

     

     

    Couple of thoughts:  Yes, most "tuned" turbo cars benefit from running at least one step colder plugs.  Secondly, have you tried measuring the same fuel trims but using a Porsche specific scan tool (Durametric, PST II, PIWIS)? 

     

    I didn't have access to the Porsche specific tool, so I only used my OBD2 reader.  I will add that to the list of things for the dealer to do if I hit a dead end.

    Within a week all the stuff I ordered will have arrived.  By next week I will have new motor mounts, transmission mount, MAP sensor and MAF sensor and Techron gas treatment.  I'm hoping that it takes care of the rough idle, clunk noise when dropping transmission to 1st and the random surging issue.  If that stuff doesn't work, I'm also ordering the handheld programmer that is needed to put my car back to a stock program.  I want to put it back to stock for troubleshooting, I don't want to chase my tail just to find out it is a simple as a tuning issue.  The symptoms are not that severe, so I would be fine with it if I knew that the issues were definitely stemming from the tune, and not a legitimate problem. However if it isn't the tune, I definitely want it fixed!

  5. SHRTFTB1S2 =short term fuel trim bank1 sensor 2

     

    SHRTFTB2S2 =short term fuel trim bank2 sensor 2

     

    I wonder if those sensors are not applicable to my car since the values never change?  The other fuel trim readings seem normal.  If you take a look at post #5, I took a photo of the diagnostic screens that my reader has when it's hooked up with the engine off. It shows the above two readings for the sensors that stayed fixed as well as the other fuel trim readings that seemed to be changing appropriately with the diving conditions.

    Are the readings for STFTB1S2 and STFTB2S2 supposed to change?

    What spark plugs were installed? Maybe it's just a matter of a cold fouled plug? Where they torqued correctly? 

    The spark plugs used on the car (according to the receipt) are:

     (7410) FR6LDC  (I think he meant to write LDU not LDC)

    Those should be correct according to the manual, however I don't know the torque they used since it was a shop that did it before I owned the car.  They were done 3 years and 7,000 miles ago.

     I thought that I read somewhere that cars with a performance tune (I have the Ultimate Motorwerks tune) eat through spark plugs much quicker and it may help to go with one step colder.  Is there truth to that?

  6. I just got back from my drive.  I drove about 25 miles and I couldn't get it to surge. Unfortunately It's very unpredictable and I don't know how to duplicate it. 

    The only things that I noticed that are very distinct were that the car starts perfectly when cold and is very smooth, then there is a brief dip in the RPM's, then it picks back up and that's precisely when it runs rough.  It's evident in the video when it does that dip shortly after starting.  When it's running a little rough, if I hold the RPM's at 1,800, the car will then run VERY rough. (once it warms up, it doesn't feel significantly rough any more)

     

    The other things I noticed were regarding the readings on the live view of the OBD2 reader.  I kept an eye on the TP%, every now and then when I gave it 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and held it steady, the reading would shoot up to 92%-100% for no reason, then settle down to a proper reading after a second or two.  While it did this, I didn't notice any drivability problem, so I wonder if it's just a normal occurrence of the car just doing the math?

    I also noticed that there are two fuel trim readings that I don't understand or know what they are, but they have values that never changed throughout the whole drive.  The two readings are:

    SHRTFTB1S2 (%) - N/A

    SHRTFTB2S2 (%) - 99.2

  7. I have a little more info.  I hooked up my OBD2 reader so I can read the throttle position sensor readings.  Most readings made sense, but there was a specific range that may possibly be an issue.

    When the throttle was not pushed, it read 3.something% open, when it was floored, it read 100% open, so this made sense.  Then I pushed it in various positions and held it.  It seemed like rock steady readings all across the board, except for the high 30's to high 40% range.  In that range, the % would sometimes fluctuate a very slight amount. It fluctuated maybe .2 or .3%.  This occurrence was very random.  Sometimes it would lock in immediately, other times it would fluctuate up and down for a few seconds, then lock in. 

    Is it possible that this may cause that surging that I get randomly?  Or is it too slight of a variation to affect/feel anything?
    I'm going to take the car out today with the reader hooked up to see if I can get a pattern going between the reading and the surging.  

    I'll check back here when I'm done.

  8. I just freaked out!
    Based on my above post and more research that I've done, I decided to replace the engine and transmission mounts. I figured that since the idle is rough and there is a spot at 1,800rpm that oscillates and vibrates excessively, that I would replace both mounts with hopes to fix the problem. I figured that even if I was wrong and they are fine, I bought myself another 14 years before it needs them again. Then I decided that since I went this far, I might as well order a new MAF sensor too! Hopefully it fixes the surging, but if it doesn't, once again I buy myself some time with a consumable item, and possibly even improve my gas mileage a little.
    Even if these items don't fix anything, it will help the mechanic a little with troubleshooting.
    I know I'm a little nuts, but perfection is a minimum standard when it comes to my cars!

    I ordered everything just now, I will definitely give updates after the work is done so I can hopefully help others if they have similar issues in the future.

  9. A little more info today.

    I noticed that under light to moderate throttle, the engine will sometimes surge when it first switches to 4th gear (Tiptronic). It may actually do a little surge in 3rd right before the gear change too. It did it a few times today during a 30 mile ride. I have definitely felt this in the past, but I ignored it since it is usually VERY slight and the car doesn't miss and it runs strong and it goes away if I give it a little less or more throttle. I was also suspect that it may be a tune issue. For instance, I'm wondering if that is the point where the vario cam kicks in or something like that?

    Also, I noticed that if I'm in neutral and hold the throttle at about 1,800 rpm's, I get a good amount of vibration that is very noticeable. It's enough where the tiptronic buttons on the wheel make a vibrating noise! I assume that if it's not normal for this car. Another important bit that I forgot. If I'm not completely stopped and I try to put transmission in 1st, I get a pronounced bang when it goes into gear. I'm guessing motor mounts as was suggested (or transmission mount)?

    I can't imagine any real problem with a car that has only 19,000 miles.

    I'm starting to wonder if I have more than one problem? It's amazing how I'm starting to remember stuff that I ignored along the way. Part of it is that I only put about 1,500 miles on it since I bought it, so I don't have a lot of experience with it.

  10. Thanks for all info!

    That write up is great! It seems like a very easy job with a lift. Now I just have to look more carefully at it to determine if the mounts are actually bad. I'm having trouble believing that they are bad since the car has only 19,000 miles on it. But I gues the rubber could have deteriorated due to age for sure.

    I will definitely keep you guys posted on what I decide to do. It's not too bad of a vibration so I want to make sure it's not a normal characteristic of a 2001 996tt before I start spending money on it.

  11. Usually the rubber in the mount is either torn or has sections totally missing.  This happens to be a transmission mount insert, but it will give you the basic idea:

     

    bushing3.jpg

    I've seen failed mounts, but I was wondering if there is an easy way to see, or test them on this actual car.  I didn't look at them carefully.  Maybe I can just grab the engine and shake it to see if it moves?

    If I am correct, they should be very easy to change on this car, right?  I have a lift in my garage, so that should make it even easier.  I'm not near the car now, so I can't look now.

    It's very possible that the mounts are bad because I always felt that the car idled a little rougher than I thought it should.  I was just under the impression that it was normal because everyone says that they are a little rougher than the Boxsters and that's what I compared it to.  I had a 2001 Boxster S

  12.  

     

    I heard nothing unusual...of course I could not feel it...mine does not idle at that RPM.  I don't think anything is wrong.

    There is no problem with the way it runs, or the sound. Everything I'm complaining about has to do with the feel.  It just feels like a rough or unrefined engine for a little while after a cold start.  The RPM's start that high (~1,200) but after warming a little, they settle down to 800 rpm.  There are no drivability issues.

     

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvuVzOdvNNE&feature=youtu.be

     

    I started it this morning.  Unfortunately, there is no change from cleaning the throttle body (as I suspected).

    I'm starting to wonder if it is just a characteristic to this engine?

    Take a look at the video and note the tachometer and when I feel the roughness. Now that I really paid attention, it's not so much a "lumpy" idle, or one that is "missing".  I think it's more of a high frequency vibration. It also never has a problem running smooth and strong when I give it some throttle.

    Is this normal for these cars?  I might need a guy who has a lot of experience with 911 TT to look at it before I drive myself nuts chasing something that's "normal"! LOL

     

    All of the turbo cars have a bit of a lumpy idle when compared to the normally aspirated cars, but many times idle vagaries can be traced to failing motor mounts.

     

    If it was a failing motor mount, wouldn't it vibrate all the time?  I guess it does feel the same as a bad mount, but it only does it for a short time and only on a cold start.

     

    Very high idle rpm in fact!!! I wonder if , having such a high idle rpm, if you are not at the edge of the cam advance…. But I am also wondering if all this is not cause by a leak of a sense line…Difficult to troubleshoot….

    The idle doesn't stay there.  That is only when it is initially started cold.  It settles in at 800 rpm, which I believe is perfectly normal.

    I agree, it seems to be a very difficult troubleshoot, I'm usually very good at troubleshooting, but this has me stumped!

    My best bet is probably to go to a mechanic that knows these cars very well so they can check it out.  For all I know, it may even be a normal characteristic of these engines.

     

     

    Bad engine or transmission mounts usually show up only under certain circumstances, which is why they often get overlooked.  When the engine is "loping" at idle, it is really trying to move around quite a bit, so a weak mount would make if feel even worse than it really is.

     

    I also would expect the car to normally run at higher RPM's than the regular idle speeds on a cold start.

     

    I agree, I don't think the high idle is abnormal.   Is there an easy way to check the engine mounts on these cars?

  13. I heard nothing unusual...of course I could not feel it...mine does not idle at that RPM.  I don't think anything is wrong.

    There is no problem with the way it runs, or the sound. Everything I'm complaining about has to do with the feel.  It just feels like a rough or unrefined engine for a little while after a cold start.  The RPM's start that high (~1,200) but after warming a little, they settle down to 800 rpm.  There are no drivability issues.

     

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvuVzOdvNNE&feature=youtu.be

     

    I started it this morning.  Unfortunately, there is no change from cleaning the throttle body (as I suspected).

    I'm starting to wonder if it is just a characteristic to this engine?

    Take a look at the video and note the tachometer and when I feel the roughness. Now that I really paid attention, it's not so much a "lumpy" idle, or one that is "missing".  I think it's more of a high frequency vibration. It also never has a problem running smooth and strong when I give it some throttle.

    Is this normal for these cars?  I might need a guy who has a lot of experience with 911 TT to look at it before I drive myself nuts chasing something that's "normal"! LOL

     

    All of the turbo cars have a bit of a lumpy idle when compared to the normally aspirated cars, but many times idle vagaries can be traced to failing motor mounts.

     

    If it was a failing motor mount, wouldn't it vibrate all the time?  I guess it does feel the same as a bad mount, but it only does it for a short time and only on a cold start.

     

    Very high idle rpm in fact!!! I wonder if , having such a high idle rpm, if you are not at the edge of the cam advance…. But I am also wondering if all this is not cause by a leak of a sense line…Difficult to troubleshoot….

    The idle doesn't stay there.  That is only when it is initially started cold.  It settles in at 800 rpm, which I believe is perfectly normal.

    I agree, it seems to be a very difficult troubleshoot, I'm usually very good at troubleshooting, but this has me stumped!

    My best bet is probably to go to a mechanic that knows these cars very well so they can check it out.  For all I know, it may even be a normal characteristic of these engines.

  14. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvuVzOdvNNE&feature=youtu.be

     

    I started it this morning.  Unfortunately, there is no change from cleaning the throttle body (as I suspected).

    I'm starting to wonder if it is just a characteristic to this engine?

    Take a look at the video and note the tachometer and when I feel the roughness. Now that I really paid attention, it's not so much a "lumpy" idle, or one that is "missing".  I think it's more of a high frequency vibration. It also never has a problem running smooth and strong when I give it some throttle.

    Is this normal for these cars?  I might need a guy who has a lot of experience with 911 TT to look at it before I drive myself nuts chasing something that's "normal"! LOL

     

  15. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvuVzOdvNNE&feature=youtu.be

     

    I started it this morning.  Unfortunately, there is no change from cleaning the throttle body (as I suspected).

    I'm starting to wonder if it is just a characteristic to this engine?

    Take a look at the video and note the tachometer and when I feel the roughness. Now that I really paid attention, it's not so much a "lumpy" idle, or one that is "missing".  I think it's more of a high frequency vibration. It also never has a problem running smooth and strong when I give it some throttle.

    Is this normal for these cars?  I might need a guy who has a lot of experience with 911 TT to look at it before I drive myself nuts chasing something that's "normal"! LOL

     

  16. I would contact Kevin.  He is very helpful and stands behind his work.  It might just be you need him to adjust the idle rpm...

    Kevin saw my post on the other forum where I asked the same question (he responded).  He didn't know that my car had a tune at that point. 

    I don't think that it's an idle rpm issue because the car is idling at about 1,200 rpm's when it is cold, it just runs rough, it doesn't threaten to stall or even dip low in the rpm's.  The idle varies 100 rpm at most while it's running rough. The car smoothens out after a short while, and once it's warmed up, the idle comes down to about 800 rpm.

  17. Another possibility is the tune...anyway to flash back to stock?  Any idea who's tune it is? TMK, that reader is not capable of reading the Porsche codes as precisely as needed.  Try Durametric (unless you can get a hold of a PST2 or PIWIS)

    The tune is from Ultimate Motorwerks according to the paperwork with the car.

    I don't think it's the tune because I had the car for less than a year, and it just starting doing this right before the winter.  Then again, maybe it only occurs as the weather gets colder.

     

    I cleaned the throttle body today (what a pain in the butt!  I hate working on this car!). It actually looked spotless, so it's probably not the issue.  After I started it, it stumbled a little as expected since I had just cleaned it, but I won't know if it improved unless I start it cold tomorrow morning.

    I'll report back tomorrow.

  18. A little additional info.  I just hooked up my OBD2 reader with key on, engine off on a cold engine (approx. 50 deg).  I attached the photos of the reader showing all the pages of readings for the live data (there were no pending codes). 

    I then started the car and it was rough again (it's 100% consistent when cold). It idled at 1200 rpm, and it varied by about 100 RPM.  I also was able to smell a rich mixture from the exhaust.

    I hope this info helps a little.

    post-17066-0-83213500-1427340428_thumb.j

    post-17066-0-00415100-1427340439_thumb.j

    post-17066-0-50871000-1427340450_thumb.j

    post-17066-0-26878300-1427340459_thumb.j

  19. Have you cleaned the throttle body?

    If you have not use only throttle body cleaner and do not spray the MAF.

     

    I haven't cleaned the throttle body, I will try it as soon as I get a chance.

    Is the car stock? What coil packs did you use (upgraded 997's)?  Were the plugs gapped correctly?  TB should be cleaned.

    I purchased the car almost a year ago.  It is pretty much stock.  The only thing that I know it has is a tune.  The coil packs and spark plugs were replaced shortly before I bought it, so I'm not sure if they were done correctly, or what part #'s they used.

    I will try the throttle body cleaning.  On another forum, they recommended that I change the MAF also.  Is there a way that I can check it so I don't randomly throw parts at the car?

  20. I searched all over the Internet for my problem, but the solutions seem to be all over the place. I also didn't find the exact symptoms as my car. Hopefully someone knows what the problem is, or someone can help me with step by step troubleshooting.

    I noticed that when my car is started cold for the first time of the day, it idles rough. It won't stall, it just feels lumpy. This will last for a few seconds, or until I rev the engine a few times. Once it smoothens out, it stays smooth and runs strong. The check engine light did not come on and the car will start right up without hesitation also.

    The spark plugs and coils were changed within a few thousand miles and I recently changed the air filter and fuel filter. I also cleaned the MAF/MAP sensors.

    I have an obd2 reader....where do I start?

    I was thinking of starting with hooking up the obd2 on a cold engine to see if the readings on all the temp sensors make sense.

    Please help!

  21. 996 612 070 04 is an Aerokit harness for a normally aspirated (narrow body) 996.

    According to the TSB for the 996TT Aerokit the correct wiring harness for an  Aerokit 996TT is: 996 612 070 30

    I purchased the 996 612 070 04 because that was the harness that was listed in the instructions for the fixed wing kit.  Maybe the "proper" harness for my car doesn't have a lead for the third brake light?  If it does, I wonder why the instructions didn't refer to that harness.

     

    The 996TT fan works all of the time as soon as the engine starts whether hot or cold.

     

    I have a 996TT after 5yrs of 996C2 ownership which was different. The engine compartment fan on other models only comes in when the engine compartment reaches a certain temperature.

     

    So, it's normal for it to be on all of the time on a 996TT.

    Ok great!  I was worried because there seems to be so many different stories on what is proper for the car.

     

     

    For the 996TT (from the Porsche Service Information Book 2001):

     

     
    1st stage:
    Ignition ON (for longer than 1sec.) or engine running (actuated by fuel pump relay via booster resistance cable).
     
    2nd stage:
    At coolant temperature of approx. 105 °C or engine compartment temperature of approx. 78 °C (OFF at approx. 60 °C). 
     
    After-run phase:
    Requirement: Engine compartment temperature with ignition OFF > 25 °C
     
    After-run ON:
    For 3 minutes at engine compartment temperature > 78 °C. The switch-on condition of > 78 °C is then checked every 10 seconds.
    The after-run phase is active for max. 40 minutes."

     

    The strange part is that my fan works as described above except for the key on engine off situation.  My fan does not come on simply by turning the key to the on position.  The car must be started for the fan to start spinning.

  22. I have a 2001 911 TT and I'm still new to the car and trying to figure out what is normal, and what is not.

    After reading hundreds of posts regarding the engine compartment fan, I still don't know if mine is behaving normally. It's possible that mine may be different because my car is not 100% stock anymore, and I think that may causing confusion for me. I was under the impression that the fan should be off until the engine bay reaches a certain temperature while the engine is running (I think it was 170 deg.), and when the engine and key are off, it turns on if the engine compartment gets up to about 140 degrees or something like that.

    The way mine is operating:

    Cold engine Key on, engine off - fan is off (that's good)

    Hot engine, engine off - fan kicks on when heat builds up (that's good)

    BUT.......

    Cold engine, fan starts immediately when engine is started and runs the whole time that the engine is running. That's the confusing part because I thought it supposed to kick on only when the engine bay reaches a certain temperature and cycle off and on as needed to keep the engine bay temps down below that 170 degree mark.

    If my car is not behaving normally, the answer may be in the wiring harness, but would like confirmation from someone who knows for sure.

    My spoiler was stuck in the down position so I installed the fixed spoiler kit from e-bay. The instructions said to install the fixed spoiler harness in order to prevent the error light from coming on. I installed the harness # 996-612-070-04. Possibly this harness was designed for the GT cars and some how keeps the fan on?

    Any ideas?

    Did the fan work normally before you installed the fleabay wiring harness? Does it work correctly if you remove the harness?

    The harness was not a fleabay harness! It was an OEM Porsche harness that is designed for the fixed spoiler cars with a brake light. The "fleabay" part was the kit that takes the stock spoiler, removes the finicky hydraulics and sets the spoiler in a fixed position.

    Unfortunately I'm very new to the car and didn't take notice to it beforehand. I guess if no one can answer the question of whether ther fan is spinning when their car is started cold, I may have to put back the original harness to see how it behaves. I was trying to avoid that because the harness is already in my attic, plus it's a pain to unclip the connector because it's deep in the fender where it's located.

  23. I have a 2001 911 TT and I'm still new to the car and trying to figure out what is normal, and what is not.

    After reading hundreds of posts regarding the engine compartment fan, I still don't know if mine is behaving normally. It's possible that mine may be different because my car is not 100% stock anymore, and I think that may causing confusion for me. I was under the impression that the fan should be off until the engine bay reaches a certain temperature while the engine is running (I think it was 170 deg.), and when the engine and key are off, it turns on if the engine compartment gets up to about 140 degrees or something like that.

    The way mine is operating:

    Cold engine Key on, engine off - fan is off (that's good)

    Hot engine, engine off - fan kicks on when heat builds up (that's good)

    BUT.......

    Cold engine, fan starts immediately when engine is started and runs the whole time that the engine is running. That's the confusing part because I thought it supposed to kick on only when the engine bay reaches a certain temperature and cycle off and on as needed to keep the engine bay temps down below that 170 degree mark.

    If my car is not behaving normally, the answer may be in the wiring harness, but would like confirmation from someone who knows for sure.

    My spoiler was stuck in the down position so I installed the fixed spoiler kit from e-bay. The instructions said to install the fixed spoiler harness in order to prevent the error light from coming on. I installed the harness # 996-612-070-04. Possibly this harness was designed for the GT cars and some how keeps the fan on?

    Any ideas?

    Did the fan work normally before you installed the fleabay wiring harness? Does it work correctly if you remove the harness?

  24. I have a 2001 911 TT and I'm still new to the car and trying to figure out what is normal, and what is not.

    After reading hundreds of posts regarding the engine compartment fan, I still don't know if mine is behaving normally. It's possible that mine may be different because my car is not 100% stock anymore, and I think that may causing confusion for me. I was under the impression that the fan should be off until the engine bay reaches a certain temperature while the engine is running (I think it was 170 deg.), and when the engine and key are off, it turns on if the engine compartment gets up to about 140 degrees or something like that.

    The way mine is operating:
    Cold engine Key on, engine off - fan is off (that's good)
    Hot engine, engine off - fan kicks on when heat builds up (that's good)
    BUT.......
    Cold engine, fan starts immediately when engine is started and runs the whole time that the engine is running. That's the confusing part because I thought it supposed to kick on only when the engine bay reaches a certain temperature and cycle off and on as needed to keep the engine bay temps down below that 170 degree mark.

    If my car is not behaving normally, the answer may be in the wiring harness, but would like confirmation from someone who knows for sure.

    My spoiler was stuck in the down position so I installed the fixed spoiler kit from e-bay. The instructions said to install the fixed spoiler harness in order to prevent the error light from coming on. I installed the harness # 996-612-070-04. Possibly this harness was designed for the GT cars and some how keeps the fan on?


    Any ideas?

     

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