mxdave74

Joe, sounds like the wife has given a repreive of sorts.... you've got couple more months then to decide for sure if you can live without. I've no doubt the C4S is a great car, and I've enjoyed a few drives in them. Hope you end up finding the right balance.

the wider rear end is the best single giveaway... badging would be 2nd

Kevin, I'm no expert and you may be... I wasn't assuming some unlimited boundaries on ECU mapping, but I and several others I've run with can attest to higher octane fuel making a noticeable difference on days at Thunderhill with ambient temps over 85 degrees. Question?.... if the ECU capabilities are limited (effectively not cognizant of the difference between 87 and 93 octane), that would mean our ECU has no way of countering differences in fuel quality? Seems odd.

Mxdave - you seem to be forgetting that the fuel and advance curves are already mapped, they are not open ended, so even if environmental conditions would allow as you say more advance etc the map will restrict, regardless if there is a knock sensor or not. Hence the reason for rechip or tune via a dyno and remap. So stock ECU with factory fuel and advance maps, it is very safe to say 100 octane will buy you nothing. You are limited by the predetermined map. Maps are not open ended there is a limit.

It's worth noting that in many circumstances higher octane fuel does indeed provide greater performance by allowing our engines to avert retarding the ignition. Porsche uses knock sensors to tell the engine when to reign things in. On hot days at the track for instance, you might be surprised how often engine ignition is being retarded to save itself. In any of these scenarios, there is a measurable and felt difference by running 100+ octane fuel, so while many of you are correct in saying that higher octane fuel does not provide greater horsepower in and of itself, there are indeed many circumstances where it does allow the engine to use the fuel/air to its greatest potential and ultimately generate more horsepower in those conditions.

Higher octane does NOT improve horsepower.

To increase the horsepower of an engine you need to increase its compression ratio or supercharge air-fuel in the cylinder.

The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. When gas ignites by compression rather than because of the spark from the spark plug, it causes knocking in the engine.

So your engine is build with a compresion so high the 87 octane will auto ignite, 93 octane will support this compression. The power of gasoline is measure in btu,(british thermal unit),all fuel at the pump have the same BTU, only the octane change.

Racing fuel are oxygenated fuel that will produce a bit more horsepower because they have a better vaporisation, and they have also higher octane rating to accept higher compression engine, you buy those fuel usualy in barrel of 5 15 or 45 gallons.

Very expensive.

I bought a set of Pagid RS-19 pads to swap in for track days. They howl like a frickin wolf but work quite well and don't dust at all. I have one more track day in November and will enjoy putting my OEM pads back in, as the little bit of squealing that comes from them never bothered me in the slighttest. The OEM pads are not quiet, but there really isn't any such thing as truly quiet, effective brakes that last a reasonable amount of time. I think Porsche/Pagid have found a very good balance in the OEM yellow compound on my GT3. i.e. Flash, don't expect to find pads that improve your current dusty squealy OEM pads.

I know there's a lot of info out there re. all exhaust enhancement options. I'm curious what the breakdown of owners who go, with performance mufflers only, full system or the PSE style mod to OEM mufflers? I'd read the reams of info. and opinions on what sounds best, more interested in which method wins.

BTW, if you have a set of OEM 996 mufflers you're willing to part with, please email or PM me.

yes

Ward,

Don't expect a harder ride out of 5mm wheelspacers... Nick, can you provide more detail on your observed ride changes after adding spacers? While it would increase the leverage your wheel/hub assembly has on the suspension geometry and damper, it's odd that the ride would get noticeably sharper or harder. Such a change almost sounds like your dampers are worn out and blowing through their stroke on compression.

I think I paid roughly $225 for the 5mm spacers, which come with longer wheel studs, a must from a safety point of view. The looks on the car arent that much different, but the ride is harder and more suited for the track.

ps They are easy to self install.

The more performance oriented the brake pads, the more likely they are to make noise. There are exceptions, but this is more the rule than exception. You guys should try getting GT3 or cupcar brakes to be quiet at low speeds and just near stop. You simply learn to live with it.

Use your brakes in good health and enjoy their capabillities. Porsche has done a good job at walking the line between sportscar/racebred power, feel, and bite and civilized passenger car quiet brakes.

here's the most popular source.... bumperplugs

welcome indeed

I run 30 Fr & 34-36 Rr on the GT3

dumb question here.... anyone know the differences between GT3 mufflers and std. 996?

Carlos,

Please, please, please don't run your Boxster without an air filter!! :P I know you long for those glory days with the old Mustang, but while your Boxster would continue running 10 years from now, it would also be measurably down on horsepower.... just as I'm sure your Mustang was.

Peer, It seems as though K&Ns and their competitiors have all been coming oiled in recent years, though there may be exceptions. With K&N it's very easy to tell... If the cotton gauze is pink/red, then it's oiled and ready to go.

John's advice is sound. The question is not whether your engine will grind to a halt a year or more from now. The question is... is there substantial evidence that this filter will enhance the performance of my stock Boxster?, I think the answer is, no. I believe that a K&N style filter is only going to make a reasonable difference in the Boxster when it's used in a well designed replacement intake, not the OEM unit. And frankly, even under that scenario, we're not talking about enough horsepower to notice the difference or justify the cost.

Don't risk your $10K engine on a filter unless you really know what you're getting into, AND it presents a worthwhile enhancement! The biggest issue I've seen with using these filters over the last 20 year (yes, I do use them, though not in my GT3) is how the owner treats the filter. Frankly, most people are not detail oriented enough to look after an oiled cotton gauze filter year after year. Some wash them too much, some wash them too little, and an awful lot of other do not properly apply oil.

K&N makes a good product, but it significantly complicates the simple act of air filter maintenance.

Peter makes a good point as depending on your preference and comfort level in new experiences, the organizer can make a big difference. I'm pretty comfortable starting new things so, I tend toward events w/ more focus on track time and less focus on formal education that some organizers include. BMW CCA events are very popular and well run events, however if you tend to be a quick learner and will adapt quickly to the track climate, then you may find their events too structured and a little light on driving time.

In general, attendance is quite large at BMW CCA and PCA events compared to Trackmsters, CFRA etc... For me the crowds are too large with the big clubs.

http://www.motorsportreg.com/ allows you to run a search and look at the majority of events by all clubs at givens race tracks... depends on how you cusomize your search.

Laguna Seca is also my vote for the most fun. After time spent there on 2 and 4 wheels, I still look forward to going there above all others. Thunderhill probably gets my vote as 2nd best and safest (read reasonable run off all around the circuit).

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the GT3 fronts are the same caliper as the PCCBs calipers found on cars with the ceramic option. If so, then red paint for GT3 6 pots and yellow paint for PCCB 6 pots would be the only difference?

They look like GT3 front calipers with adaptors to the WRX to me.

This seems a bit of a dumb question, but... Anyone know if Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90 is approved? I don't see any other 75W-90 on the Mobil website and its data sheet mentions a GI-5 rating, though I'm wondering if this is a typo. My gut says the Mobile 1 75W-90 is Porsche approved, but looking for more comfort than gut feeling. Oh, and the car, in my case is an 04 GT3... no idea what differences are between my LSD and other models is.

Dave

Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers.

Parts you will need:

3-4 liters 999 917 546 00 (Shell) Shell Transaxle (75W-90) or Mobil Mobilube PTX (75W-90)

Approved Manual Transmission Oils

000 043 204 20 Mobil (Mobilube PTX) - 20 liter container

000 043 204 19 Shell (Transaxle) - 20 liter container

999 917 546 00 Shell (Transaxle) - 1 liter container

Note: All are synthetic GL4 and GL5 rated (or "non-conventional processing") oils. GL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability.

Right Loren, thanks. I simply meant that the longer locks that he handed over will require a different key than mine, so I'll need to pick one up.

The longer bolt set that comes with the 5 mm spacers includes longer wheel lock bolts. At least it did last time I saw the kit.

Thank heavens you didn't use Dexcool in the car. I've learned from my BMW, that it's best to stick with manufacturer or equivalent coolants (I actually use MBZ coolant in the Dinan because it's BMW equivalent and cheaper). I don't know that Porsche uses compsites in the radiator as BMW and MBZ do, but I'm guessing so?

Dexcool really isn't much good for anything and while I had a car with it from the factory, my experience is that you're better off with something else.

The spacer set does include longer bolts, so that's not an issue (although I'm assuming his wheel locks are different than mine, sI'll need a key). Guess I just need to give a whirl... It might be a while, but I'll try and remember to report back.

I have a completely stock 04 GT3 and a buddy just dropped a set of 5mm spacers from his 997 in my lap...

1 - Is there space with GT3 wheels to "pull 'em out" just a tad?

2 - Are 996 and 997 patterns the same?

Anyone else gone after that slightly more filled out looked while staying with stock wheels?

Dave