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Jas III

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About Jas III

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    hitechpda
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    UK
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  • Present cars
    2003 911/996 C2

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  1. Hey Guys, Lets take the Mystery out the SVA test once and for all! I have 2003 996 Cab USA versiion in the UK converted with SVA pass! My total cost to get the work done professionally by Zentrum (Nottinghan) was ( ...get ready) £145. I dropped th car off went out for coffee came back just over later and it was done. The mechanics are ex-Porsche Nottingham and factory trained, without dealer pricing! But before I bought and brought my USA car over to the UK. I looked into the costs. To start with RHD Porsche of Nottinghim told me it would cost £7000+ to prepare a USA car to pass the UK SVA. They tried to persuade me not to do it because of the costs. I kept looking for anwers I gots lots of ridiculous quotes and was told tons of rubbish that really put me off. I had a very hard time finding anyone who knew exactly what was required bring a Porsche into the UK. This goes to show that there are many people with vested interests in keeping this process a mystery and making profits and a living from Joe Bloggs who wants a car passed through the SVA and does not have a clue what is required and full of fear from misinformation. This website comes closest but even these helpful threads have conflicting and confusing information. Here is what is required to pass the SVA. 1) Running lights were converted to indicators (repeaters) 2) Rear Fog light was wired to the the otherside, Now both fogs work. Why not have both? There is socket on both sides its just not wired on one side 3) Then you need amber bulbs in the rear indicator lenses, not red which is allowed in the USA. Earlier cars with red turn indicator lenses, need to get the EU (amber)replacements. Luckily the 996 has clear indicator lenses, so only the bulb need so be changed if it is not amber. 4) USA Bi-Xenon Lithtronics to UK. Nothing needs to be purchased! You just 'flatten' the low beam. Regardless of what is said elsewhere, there is a switch inside the light housing when removed from the car to 'flatten' the beam of the lights. It does not turn it into a RHD flare to the left, but it flatten right flare. That is ALL that is required. Its 100% verified and SVA test is passed! My headlight are not ROW but definetely USA DOT approved OEM Lithtronics and there is a switch! SVA test will check the beams with machine and also to see that headlight washers are installed and that they are self leveling, as they are. They will check lights all to see that they work, and they will check the low beam aim. They check seatbelts, (all) even those kiddy seats in back. They weigh the car. They put it up an lift and look underneath to make sure everything is in tact and have the wheels tuirned full both directions. They will check the tire/wheel sizes to see if they match OEM spec. The only thing holding me up from pass was the window tint film on the driver and passenger door windows that was installed in Florida where the car came from. The tester quickly helped me remove it! All the BS about needing new headlights and changing my USA Lithronics, and Key Fob Transmitter frequency needing to be changed etc is complete rubbish. Cars from USA do not need more testing as long as the USA DOT ID sticker remains inside on the lower panel of the driver door. The SVA tester will photograph this. This means no other testing is required. Cars that do not have this or come other countries need s Type approval or complete testing, which can be very involved, unless there is paperwork from a previous complete test. Porche owners need not worry about this. The dreaded SVA was an enjoyable experience after all. I learned a lot from the tester as we chatted away while he checked everything out. Nobody should fear the SVA test. Its just all the paperwork that sucks. C388 for Customs and V55/5 for the DVLA etc. Drop a message if perhaps I can help with any more information. :renntech:
  2. Nice work and very thorough- thanks bwillis! :notworthy: I have received Custom's approval now for permanent UK import of my USA MY03 996 C2 HMRC just provided me with a CE388. So next is SVA testing! :help: I have a couple issues with questions I hope you can maybe help with. Questions: 1) Do headlights really have to replaced? I have OEM Bi-Xenon Lithronic Headlights on the facelift 996. These do have headlight washers and self-leveling. On 966 at least there is a touring option adjustment switch inside to flatten the beam so the rise of the low beam does not lift or flare to the right. However it only flattens the low beam for RHD driving. I was told by LHD Porsche, Nottingham that is all that should be required. But ... the USA Bosch headlights are DOT not 'E' rated, like EU LHD (ROW) cars. Did they check yours for 'E' rating? Complete new Lithronics would be a disappointing requirement, (I can't find these on ebay for £50! ) 2) Also the Key remote radio frequency for USA cars is different than UK cars. The USA frequency is outside the allowed UK band. Was this checked? Instead of changing the system...errr... the solution could be as easy as removing the battery and 'mhz' mark from the key. The Alarm and immobilizer function required in the SVA test works without the remote. But it's great if you can help with any information. :lightbulb: On the other information here is bit more I can add from my experience: For USA citizens with USA passport and a valid USA Drivers license, I think it can be a little easier. Right now I m still driving in the UK on USA plates. I keep it insured with USA company with office in London for USA citizens, like myself. The UK allows temporary imports for 6 mos than be extended to 8. But I imported into Zebruggee Belgium a year ago, on temporary as USA Citizen, and ferried it to UK after a nice LHD drive through NL! The temporary importation rules into the EU in Belgium allow for 2 years and so UK temporary registration is superseded and UK rules for temps are not enforceable. I verified it with DVLA before doing and again onc eI did to be sure. Then I had it tested twice! Last month I was stopped at a Police road block. There were 8 officers checking all cars and the the DVLA was there too! :eek: Seeing my USA reg they seemed excited as if stopping me I might have just made their day! So they took my VIN and started making checks, calls etc. They called the DVLA officers over and showed them my EU paperwork and insurance, registration etc. They shrugged their shoulders shook their neads at the officers who had to wave me on my way! "Have a nice day!" and they went back to catching road tax dodgers! :jump: Phew....I was a bit shaken though! Then a few weeks later it happened again. I was double parked at M&Ss collecting our Christmas dinner. A PC not only wrote a ticket but waited pacing back and forth next to the car for me to return! :blink: That wasn't easy! "Is there a problem officer?" He took my details & the VIN, and examined the paperwork, made some calls. He then asked to see my M&S receipt. He smiled and took the ticket back and sent me on my way! Legal or not enough of that! So I guess its time to get it right, and pay my fair dues like everyone else. - MOT Certificate (an MOT test pass) - Minister’s Approval (an SVA test pass) - Vehicle Registration - Car Tax ... - Parking Tickets - Speed Cameras Regarding shipping: . Are you aware new car mfrs, use RORO (Roll on Roll Off) and that there are far more insurance claims for transport damaged cars in containers. There is no comparison to RoRo transatlantic automobile transport. My source is experience and speaking with USAA insurance. They handle 99% worldwide auto insurance for American Diplomats and Military, and their families both in the USA and abroad. They are insuring hundreds personal vehicles being shipped all over everyday. Hands down they recommend RORO. My agent in London told me countless horror stories of complete HDI write offs to expensive luxury cars improperly loaded into containers. So its not really like it seems you might imagine! It's the containers that often end up in the sea! Containers are stacked on deck, then handled with cranes by operators who do not know your pride and joy is inside. It could be full of pajamas for all they care. Then these containers are moved about on the docks by trucks, often banging them about in the rush to get unloaded. They sometimes do end up on their side! (Imagine there are 4 cars inside!) There normally are! Known in the industry as (stack-em and rack-em) unless someone like you is bring their household over with a car and need their own container. Normally that is not the case. Cars can loaded 2 to a container for 2x premium. But the way containers are handled with cranes at the docks leaves much more room for damage. Marine insurance is higher for containers than Roro. On RORO every car is very carefully inspected and logged, then they are driven below deck by bonded drivers and individually secured. When you collect the car you get to walk around it with an agent to inspect it. If there is any scratch or mark not there when it was loaded its covered. I have not heard of damage here. Its like a huge ferry, with no hotel or passenger area on board. There are no families, individual and truck drivers walking in between the cars and lorries carrying and dragging their luggage and duty free & scrapping along in between cars as they go! (Twice on ferries to Europe I have had £1500 in paint damage from these careless jerks, when stuck having to park by one of entrance doors on the car deck!) Regarding insurance for transporting cars. I would highly recommend checking with your car insurance company first, before paying the very high premium for Marine Insurance to the booking agent. If there is damage getting settlement from Marine Insurance gives more red tape and paper chasing and run around than someone could imagine. It can take years to settle a claim if at all, unless the ship is lost (sinks)! Then a claimant will eventually get settlement. The same is covered under most auto policies though, so check it out first. I waived marine insurance and put the car on my auto policy for fraction of the cost of marine insurance. It went on the normal fire, theft and comprehensive part of the policy with $100 excess. Driving insurance did not take effect until I received the car. Claims on comprehensive (fire and theft) insurance (on USA policies) for damage while not being driven, do not increase policy premiums or effect 'no claims' as collision claims do. 3rd Party in the USA is called 'Liability' and separate. BTW: USAA worldwide insurance. USA citizen are eligible who are or has been in the USA military or govt employed or related to by birth or marriage to someone who is or was. You can check with www.usaa.com There is an office in London. Car insurance is quite cheap as long as the same model is available in LHD in the USA,.... if not, then it costs twice as much! Hopefully with all the information readers can now get through RennTech now the process is much easier for others doing this! Cheers! :renntech:
  3. Hi.... Yes I did and still hear a "click" "click" more on right turn, then left. Click is still there!: :huh: I also found a small piece of black plastic that appears to have come off the top of the housing assembly where the turn stalk enters the steering column. :wrench: I bought a new stalk from Sunset but have not installed it. Not sure I'm ready to attempt to pull the steering wheel/airbag to bits without some good instruction. Dealers here charge £120/ hr! That's USD$250!! and quoted at a 1.2 to 2 hr job! <_< Errrg ...yeh right...for now I self-cancel the turn indicator! Cheers
  4. Hello Stefan Thanks very much for your prompt and thorough reply, and $ly but helpful information. Your product is well known ,and I do not doubt that development took a lot of research and time, that justifies the cost. So ... do you still offer a discount for contributing Renntech members? Also do you know if the three button key can be programed to operate the top of a USA car as it does on the RoW 996 models? Or ... need I say is the REMOTETOP 996 the only option? Cheers :wrench: Jas
  5. Hi Guys, I'm enjoying the threads with red eyes now searching for answers, seems I'm getting closer ...but not there yet. I'm driving a US MY03 996 C2 Cab. 1) I can confirm TOP works up and down while moving up to 25mph without handbrake. No modifications made or costly relays, that I am aware of. 2) The issue I need some advice with however is the 'disabled comfort window up ' function. Door key can open window but will not close them. Question is can this be changed or is there a work around. 3) Same goes for raising or lowering the top with the door key switch. Windows go down with top down, then driver and pass windows go up, top still down, (but not rear fly windows). But not windows do not come up with top is closed with key in door. Is there a work around, without buying a SMARTTOP relay? Not to be cheappants, but I just need it for the window function. The dealer claims they can change it with an hours labor. I am have not confirmed what they actually do? 4) Lastly US 996 only has two button key fob as confirmed, while RoW cars have three buttons one for the Top? Since remote codes are tied the VIN no, Porsche only has remote codes for the two button fob for my car. But I am wondering if there is different mechanism for RoW cars, or if a US car can be programed to use a 3 button remote, (w/ USA frequency of course)? Dealer cannot tell me anything about this. Thanks again for any considerations, Jas
  6. Hello Mr Pants Perfect in my case. Yes the switch is not returning to center. 1)There is clicking noise on left turn where I hear something catching and trying to reset trigger the release but misssed. 2) Occasionally on trying to indicate a right turn I cannot get the switch arm to lock and hold into position. I removed the rubber cover over the switch at the steering column from the signal and computer arms to try to see if someithing might be stopping it from moving into position. 3) Yep .... I notched something that would raise when arm was lifted to sometimes stop it from locking into a right turn position. With a tweezers, I pulled out a sliver or small notch shaped piece of broken black plastic 1/8" wide by 1/2" staggered length. I'm guessing its part of switch release set up you are showing in your pics. So..... here I am wondering :wrench: Are there instructions in the forum for pulling the wheel to get at the switch? Can these sometime be repaired, or do you think I need a new one? Any suggestiions :lightbulb: on finding one besides bending over at the nearest dealer? Thanks again for your contributions to try and help! Jas III
  7. Hi, youre not alone! I'm looking too. My turn signal indicator switch just stopped self cancelling after turn too. MY03 996 (LHD). I'm surprised there is nothing here. Its a mechical failure in the switch which normally means an expensive new switch. This happened (years ago) on both my '74, and '84 911. It seems a design fault. We able to pull the wheel remove the switch from the column and fix the contacts. I have no idea about the 996 yet, and hopefully someone can reply to us. I'm not to keen yet to pull the wheel off and start messing without some good encouragment to do so. Cheers Jas
  8. Well no answers or replies............ Here is what the dealer said, "PCM2.1 DVD system from 997 MY05+ will not fit 996!"
  9. Does anyone know if the newer MY05+ PCM 2.1 DVD verson 3.0 will fit or retrofit to a MY03 w/ PCM2.1 CD Version 3.0. There do not seem to map updates in Europe for CD PCM2 since 2004. Just wondering if I can swap to the newer PCM DVD. There are a couple availible. 997.642.103.05 and 997.642.103.06. I need to move quickly to get them, so if anyone can reply PDQ, (Loren?) it sure would be appreciated. - Thanks
  10. Hi Nick, Thanks for the quick reply. My system is version 3.0. I do have the Bose system. Quite a price difference. I am now a contributing member too. How could I argue its not justified with help and resources like this? :notworthy: Now I just need to find my way into the TSBs??? The part number for the PCM2.1 Europe update the dealer offere is 000044???????? (somewhere on my desk). I'll try to dig it up. I hguess when heard the price it was quickly neglected.Seems the best dated maps still though are 2004 at best. Funny PCM 1 16 bit updates are availble up to current. So the PCM2 I MY03-04 I guess is a bit of an odd ball. Ever hear of any sucessfully ripping map data off of 2.1 DVD to work on 2.1 CD system? I see there are a couple PCM 2.1 DVD systems with GSM phone and seperate DVD unit, on ebay. Partnumber : 997.642.133.06 comes with everything, looks like complete retrofit kit (USA model). Also 997.642.103.05 just PCM 2.1 (EU type w/ GSM phone) Can a new PCM 2.1 DVD from MY05 up fit MY03? Cheers :wacko: Jas
  11. Thanks Nick, I found that and bought both disc 2 & 3, just waiting for it to arrive. The Knottingham Porsche called me to say Porsche Germany replied to them, there is CD Update kit for 2003 which he said updates the firmware to 2.1 He could ot say what the year map up date is, nor is if will work on CD Based PCM 2.0 software version 3.0. The set is £415 with VAT. Does anyone else out there know anyting more a about a CD firmaware 2.1 PCM update?
  12. Nice impressive work and thorough instructions fitting your PCM2! :cheers: I just brought a 2003 996 USA with PCM2 (software ver. 3.0) to the UK. (same unit you installed no-GSM SIM module ) Dealer cannot tell me if there are CD maps for it for Europe or UK. Navtech tells me the map software is not compatible formats. Hard to believe that! Do you know if these CDs are availible? Been seaching everywhere. I can find PCM 2 for USA /CA Only and PCM1CD and PCM 2.1 DVDs for Europe. Even wondered if maps could ripped from a DVD, since says both use ver 3.0 Sure could use some helpful advise! Best regards Jas
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