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About espooner

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  • Birthday 05/07/1945

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  • From
    Albany, NY
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Boxster S, BLK/GRAY/M030
    1990 944 S2 Cabriolet, Guards Red/BLK/LSD/HiFi, etc.
  • Former cars
    1988 944 Turbo
    1984 944
    1962 356-B Roadster
  1. I have a 1990 Porsche 944 since new with a Blaupunkt Reno unit. The battery is disconnected over the winter. I have the radio code and manual. I screwed up the code entry three times or more and now the display shows "----" instead of "CODE". It thinks it has been stolen, I guess. How do I get it back to the CODE display to let me enter the activation code? I have let it sit for 2 months without battery power but it still won't let me in. A button to push, perhaps?
  2. Thanks for the suggestion. The gauge needle drops to zero when ignition is off, so I think it is OK, as you imply. I guess I'll take a look at the pump/sender unit. I think I would probably use a volt-ohm meter to check the resistance change, but don't know which pins to measure across. I assume black = ground and brown-white or red is power, but have not investigated the wiring diagram in the Bentley manual. It also says nothing about how to get to the tank/fuel pump, or how to remove it. I assume from the pictures it is a twist-lock ring - maybe ? I'll try the strap wrench (I have two sizes). Thanks for your input. Eric
  3. uel level gauge not working in 2002 Boxster S 2002 Boxster S with 45,000 mi. While at Watkins Glenn Intl. last weekend, my gas gauge started acting up. It read "full" all day, when normally it is on empty by the end of the day. Turning car off and on had no effect. Filled the tank that evening (14 gallons). By the end of the first run the next day, it read 3/4 full, and was working normally. 2 hours later, it reads "full" again, and has done so since then, even after driving 225 miles back home. My Bentley repair manual states that the fuel level sensor and fuel pump are all in one, and cannot be replaced separately. The part alone is $372 from Pelican Parts. I don't want to buy it if the gauge itself is the problem. Before sending for one, is there any testing to do to CONFIRM that it is a bad sensor, rather than a bad gauge? It would seem that as the gauge goes full scale, and at least once read 3/4 full, that it is not the problem. Should I smack the pump/sensor with a rubber mallet to free a stuck float? Anyone have any similar experience? All replies welcome. Eric Spooner
  4. I ordered my 2002 Boxster S with M-030 suspension - American, not ROW, as not available in US. As I have tracked the car over the years I have always been cording the outside edges of the Michelin Sport Cups, which wear twice as fast as the rears, as a result of lack of negative camber. The car is also my daily driver, however. I need to get more negative camber into the front suspension. I'm a fairly good "shade-tree mechanic, but have no access to a lift or special tools. It appears i I have 3 options and would like to get opinions. 1.) Least expensive - buy camber plates and install myself to get another 1.0 to 1.25 degrees negative camber. $350 if I do it myself. How hard? 2.) More expensive - buy ROW M-030 springs or H&R for $450, and have them installed by mechanic for another $600-$1000 depending on who does it. This would lower the car's center of gravity, get another 1.0 degree negative camber, and probably be a better handling solution for the track. 3.) More expensive yet - Camber plate AND springs. Should be great on the track, but is camber plate necessary for this ? 4.) Too expensive, I think - buy springs ($450) and GT3 adjustable arms ($980) and have them installed by mechanic (another $1000). This is WAY out of my price range, I'm afraid. Any and all comments and experience would be welcome. I need to do things quickly, as track season is here, and Michelins are not getting any cheaper. TIA Eric
  5. I replaced just the outer seals (dust covers, they are called). If you have a caliper piston hanging, you probably need the INNER seals as well. The parts numbers are the same as for the 996 1999 to 2004, which has the same front brakes. They ARE 36 and 40 mm, with the larger bore in the front. I ordered them from Pelican Parts. I looked them up this AM, and the outer seals should be 951-351-917-00-OEM 36 mm. You will need two of each (inner and outer piston) for each side you are doing, for a total of 4 @ $19.50 ea. 951-351-917-01-OEM 40 mm. You will need two of each (inner and outer piston) for each side you are doing, for a total of 4 @ $19.50 ea. Since you have to pull the calipers off the hub carrier, you should replace the bolts 999-073-402-01-M100 (2 per side or 4 @ $5.25 ea.) Be SURE to re-assemble with anti-seize compound on the bolts. My local independent service did not do so on the previous rotor replacement. The bolts were seized into the hub carrier and stripped the threads coming out. Cost for this mistake on his part $2700.00 for new hub carriers, parts, labor. I could find nothing for the bore seals, either. I would call Sunset Porsche or your local dealer. Replacement is a non-trivial task, but do-able for a person with reasonable mechanical ability. Good luck, and let me know if I can help otherwise. Eric
  6. I have been looking for these, as they are quite lightweight and pretty. Where did you find them? I assume they came off a 911, so did you have to use spacers? What size? Eric Spooner
  7. Thanks to both - very helpful, and sorta what I was thinking. Eric
  8. 2002 Boxster S, 37,000 miles, moderate track use. I am a fairly good mechanic, in general. My Boxster pretty well toasted its brake rotors the last 5 days at Watkins Glen, and needed a thorough going-over. Pulling the pads, I noted the outer dust cover (deal) on one of the calipers was burned, and came out in my hand. Pretty well like burned toast. So along with rotors, screws, Pagid Oranges, etc. I ordered new dust covers (outer seals). My question is whether there is a trick to putting these in. I expect getting them out involves pressing in the pistons, and prying them out with a screwdriver or such. Re-inserting new ones may be more challenging. Any known tricks? Pistons depressed into cylinders or projecting out slightly? Special or helpful tools? Any help would be appreciated. Eric
  9. I just got a similar problem fixed on my 1999. It was the shift shaft plug on the RH side aft and above the axle output on the transmission. You problem seems similar enough to what I was experiencing to warrant a look. I thought it was an adjustment also until it started to leak. If it is the culprit, re-torque after applying some lock-tite. So far, so good for mine. Good Luck. Your 1999 would be a 5-speed transmission, probably made by ZF. I believe the 6-speed is made by Aisin in Japan. Wouldn't this be a different setup? I have not had time to check the presence of the shift shaft plug or location as yet, so do not know, but will tomorrow night. Thanks for the response. I will let you know. Eric
  10. 2002Boxster S 34,500 miles. Over the past 4 weeks, my shifter has become "iffy" when cold It doesn't want to go all the way into 2nd from 1st. If not careful to pull it firmly into 2nd, it will grind gears. The 2nd - 3rd shift is a bit off-center, and wants to hang up between 3rd and 5th and not engage. As soon as there is some heat in the engine, it is MUCH better, overall, probably due to thermal expansion. I think the cables need adjustment, and may have stretched. What do others think? Are they adjusted at the shifter or transmission? If at the shifter, I believe I have to take off the console first. Correct? Then what? My Bentley Boxster manual completely ignores the issue, unfortunately. Any and all opinions/advice would be appreciated. Eric Spooner
  11. I have a 2002 Boxster S (same brakes as 996). I want to get brake pads for TRACK ONLY, and plan to swap them in and out after each event, so don't care about friction coefficient when cold, squealing, dust, etc. I'll be will be doing some 3-day events. The consensus seems to be for Pagid Orange, but they are quite expensive for all four corners. Any experience with Hawk Black, or other less expensive brands for track only? I'm an intermediate-level driver, and Watkins Glen is somewhat hard on brakes...
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