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gandrade1

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Posts posted by gandrade1

  1. Those might be press inserts in the spacers - have you asked H&R about replacements?

    Hi Loren,

    Not sure I understand you.

    Perhaps I was not clear on my question...Two of the nuts that hold the wheels to the spacer seem to be striped, cross-threaded. They turn, turn but will not come out and I need to remove them badly.

    I was wondering whether you or any of the other guys following the topic have an idea of how to get those suckers out........

    Thank you,

    Gus

  2. So are you saying the wheel nuts are stuck on the studs? Because they are stripped? If so, then you can usually get them off by pulling on them while turning them with a wrench. A slow process but it worked every time I've done it. If the studs are not damaged then just replace the wheel nuts.

    Hi Loren,

    I had a major problem today.

    Went to put my winter wheels and noticed that the shop that balanced my wheels cross-treaded 2 of the nuts on my rear spacer. I can't get them out. Tried to tighten, un-tighten, wiggle, etc...

    Would your method work for me?

    Any other suggestions?

    Please help.

    I attached a pic of the spacer.

    post-17763-0-25598000-1289105658_thumb.j

  3. Thanks for the diagram. I will check the connectors.

    Sounds like it is out of calibration to me. Did you let the tank run really low and then not fill it up completely?

    It is possible that I did. This car is my track car / Sunday driver, and so it sits a lot. I almost always fill it full when I get gas, but once or twice recently I only put in 5 - 8 gallons because I was concerned about having the gas sit in the car for a couple of weeks. When I did a partial fill, I found that the "miles to go" would not calibrate correctly, and so I went back to filling the tank full. I can't remember if this current problem occured immediately after the partial fills.

    Mike

    I seem to be experience the same problem...

    And I also let the car run low in fuel and did not refill it all the way....

    Any updates on this?

    Thanks,

    Gus

  4. Correct.

    Thank you Loren...

    Unplugged the MAF and drove to work (under 4000rpm) this morning without a problem.

    Just got a UPS notification that the new MAF arrived. Any tips on installing it?

    The plug on the back on the MAF only goes in in one direction also, right?

    Should I put the part in the intake first and then plug the connector in the back or the order doesn't matter? I am overthinking this, but I am s*** scared of spoiling another part :-)

    BTW AutohausAZ has the best price around for the part that goes in my car 125 01

    Thanks again.

    All the best,

    Gus

  5. It should run fine under 4000 RPM without the MAF.

    If it does not then it probably is not the MAF.

    As long as the CEL is not flashing it is safe to drive without cat damage - but if it won't run smooth without the MAF there is another problem.

    Check the fault codes.

    Hi Loren,

    I drove with the MAF on. I have not tried driving without it.

    Should I remove the MAF and drive without it or can I drive with the MAF on despite the sputtering? I will get the part tomorrow and will install tomorrow night, but for now I have no other way to get to work :-(

    It is around 30 miles man...of bad traffic.

  6. The MAF can be installed "backwards". The "notch" or opening in the MAF needs to face towards the air intake. The installation instructions for the K&N FIPK (http://www.knfilters...7-7000_inst.pdf look at photos 26 and 26a) have good pictures of proper MAF orientation.

    If that's not the problem then your system may be re-learning--due to both battery disconnect and being clean.

    Good luck.

    The MAF can not be installed backwards on a stock intake.

    Guys thank you very much...

    The car still feels very bad. I drove it to work today and it totally sucks. It feels like it is misfiring, sputtering. Like a choked motorcycle or something.

    So I guess re-learning is out of the picture. I might have burned the thing from overspraying or not waiting for it to dry long enough, etc...

    I ordered another MAF, which wont get here until tomorrow.

    This is my daily driver. What can happen if I drive the car like this until tomorrow?

    All the best,

    Gus

  7. Hi guys,

    I just cleaned the MAF with the appropriate cleaner.

    I put it back on and the car is now sputtering and idling totally erratic...I test drove it and it almost stalled. WHAT HAVE I DONE?

    Can I have assembled it in the wrong position? Do you guys have a picture?

    Is it even possible to assemble it in any other way??

    Please help.

    It is my daily driver.

    All the best

    Gus

  8. Hi guys,

    Great to chat with you again. It has been a very, very busy year....My first born just turned a year!

    Well....to the point: the plastic underneath my Boxster is deteriorating a bit and I might need a bunch of the undercarriage plastic parts.

    In addition to that, this weekend I went to get a code read at Pepboys in Parsipanny, NJ and the f*** guy who drove the car to the service area, accidentally drove over a lift arm and broke the plastic part that is attached underneath the front bumper :censored::soapbox:

    Where do I get a complete diagram of the parts? I tried the link above and it didn't work.

    Thank you so much.

    All the best,

    Gus

  9. The problem is most likely the headlight switch. Mine flickered or acted more like a strobe light when you turn it on. Try to do what I did. Pull out the switch to the fog light position, then slam it back in. This ensures a GOOD connection to start the lamp. The contacts get worn or dirty over time. I did this standing up just outside the car and with my right hand/palm. After doing this a couple of times... BAM, my light came on. I am pretty sure your lights will turn on. If so, R&R the switch.

    Ok...Looks like the switch is the problem then...Performed your test and the light comes right back on.

    Thanks,

    Gus

  10. Did you read post 9 - he fixed his with new bulbs.

    I would still check the fuses and headlight switch first.

    The information is in your owners manual for bulbs and the fuse locations are on a paper inside the fuse box.

    Thanks, Loren...

    My problem seems to be the same as in post 8 (which I quoted).

    BTW I did change the bulbs and nothing...still have the problem

    Best,

    Gus

  11. I installed a after market HID kit. After about 6 months my lights started inconsistantly not turning on. Finaly found that by turning on/off the fog lights (pulling the switch out and pressing back in) I could get the lights to turn on every time. It's almost like the contact in the switch is faulty. Sometimes I have to try several times to get the lights to turn on and it acts like the crisper the fog lights turn off the better chances my lights turn on. Not sure if you are having a similar issue or not, just thought I'd share.

    Regards,

    Scott

    Having EXACTLY same problem....

    Have you found a solution? I though it was a problem with my HID kit and I removed it.

    Now what happens is the headlights (with Silver Star bulbs) sometimes take a while to turn on.

    Anyone with the same issue, please contribute. Is this a fuse issue? Has the KIT damaged the electric system?

    Best,

    Gus

  12. We can solve your dilmemna right now: I'll give you $1000 cash and you won't have to mess with it or ever have to worry about repairs.

    B) I will give you $1,500...Now. Firm offer!

    Get the car already, come on! About your situation getting substantially better right after the MBA - not really sure about that one...Might take a few years.

    Plus, with a used Boxster you might learn how to drive/nurture a P-Car, so that when you do actually have a much better situation you can get into a new one confidently.

    FYI...I finished my MBA a few years ago and decided to keep my 01 986. It just made sense for me from a cost-benefit perspective - the car is fun to drive, insurance is cheap and the car is paid for. However, if you simply want cheap transportation, sell the Boxster and buy a used Camry/Accord.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Gus

  13. Hi All

    Looking for ideas to get a vanity plate. It should be 6 or less digits or letters. I like 911 TT but people think otherwise. I do not want to offend anybody. I really want 911 in it. My car is speed yellow. Thanks.

    Man

    I got the best one

    9EGG11

    Best,

    Gus

  14. Hi guys,

    So there I am at the Glen, driving under constant rain yesterday and I hit a skunk :soapbox: !!! I did not run over it and the animal didnt die!

    Needless to say I had to pit in to check for damages to the car and throw up. No damages to the car, only a horrible smell. I cannot locate exactly where or if the animal hit.

    I drove 2 more runs and drove my car all the way back home (4 hours) under the wet weather, but no luck getting ready of the smell. I took the car to a car wash that had some undercarriage "jets" and the smell got a little better...But did not subside completely...

    How do I get ready of this plague - no tomato juice - please... :help:

    All the best,

    Gus

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