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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Sounds correct, but obviously if you have no heat from a heater that has full flow all the time, there has to be air in the system, or the doors on the HVAC system are not moving correctly. Pull the cover off on the passenger's side next to the battery, start the car and let it warm up, you should be able to feel both heater lines and see if they get hot.
  2. Distilled water will not change anything. If you don't have heat, you still have air in the system.
  3. Just be aware of two points: You are disabling a federally mandated safety item; in many states that is grounds for failing the car at its annual inspection. Your insurance company can play games with you if you have an accident such as rear ending someone of bumping into an inanimate object. You purposely disabled a mandated safety feature designed to prevent such things, you could end up on the hook for all the damage.
  4. Yes, the air is compressible. It all depends upon where the air is; if it is in the engine it should come out easily, if it is in the radiators, it will try to push a lot of water ahead of it.
  5. That's because you have a lot of air in the system. Try draining the tank with a turkey baster and then pulling a vacuum SLOWLY...…..
  6. We do this all the time when DIY coolant changes don't work out; it can be done, but you have to raise the vacuum level slowly in stages to allow the air to come out.
  7. You need to throttle the vacuum and bring the level up slowly, the system is trying to "burp" and you need to bring the vacuum up in stages so the system can expel the air without pushing the coolant ahead of it. Ultimately, you should reach 25-27 inches of vacuum when the system is free of air.
  8. 1. The answer is no. As long as the vacuum tool is above the liquid level, it will not pull coolant out. I would suggest bringing the vacuum level up slowly as the system will "burp" which could splash coolant onto the vacuum unit. 2. The bleeder has O-rings on it that can be replaced, and you can buy a complete new unit as well. DO NOT use aftermarket pieces, they have proven to be of poor quality.
  9. I'd check the markets in your area, what they sell for here is irrelevant.
  10. It would be a bit of a nightmare to convert a non switchable exhaust to a switchable version. The factory has bypass pipes welded inside the muffler to facilitate the two pathways, the system you have does not, so they would have to cut it apart and weld them in. I think that would end up costing you more than just buying the real thing and selling the unit you have.
  11. You need an air compressor to operate the Uview and create vacuum. If you pressured the tank and the level dropped, you just proved you have air in the system. Air is compressible, coolant is not, which is why the level changed. The system should hold pressure at 18 PSIG, if it drops lower, it is leaking. Bleeder valves are known to do this.
  12. We use a Joma high pressure test kit, all stainless and Kevlar that is capable of reading 2,000 bar. Sells for about $750.
  13. The recommended way of filling these cars with coolant is under vacuum, it is the way the dealer and any well equipped shop would do it specifically because of these issues. I would suggest shortcutting all the top off and run it folderol and take it to someone with a Uview vacuum filling system; once connected, it will all be over in about 5 min.
  14. Correct, it is warm water returning from the radiators.
  15. Let's just say it is not the most common approach, but it does work well when everything is up to snuff.
  16. According to Porsche's parts system, you should be a 996-618-605-00 (2001, 2.7L, manual trans). The ME7.2 is the firmware inside the box.
  17. If it is a 2001 2.7L, it should use an ME 7.2 DME, but that DME must match the immobilizer and keys, all of which must be coded together.
  18. Welcome to RennTech The DME, immobilizer, and keys all have to match (come from a single vehicle), or be recoded by a dealer to match. The DME version also has to match the original chassis as they changed with model years. What year is the vehicle?
  19. Be careful with the Harbor Freight fuel pressure tester, it is NOT designed for the pressures your DFI runs at, which can be as high as 3,000 PSIG
  20. This should help, it shows how the coolant flows in your car (red is hot out, blue cool returning):
  21. Sounds like trapped air. Fastest way to correct this is to pull a vacuum above the coolant in the surge tank and get the air out, or open the coolant vent valve and "burp" the system.
  22. That does not look like the factory PSE, which should look like this:
  23. Not necessarily, it all depends upon how bad the rings are. A good leak down across the board would eliminate any engine issues and tell you the oil problem lies elsewhere; the question then becomes where. Easiest way to look at the turbo is to disconnect the intake side, looking for evidence of oil and check the turbo's shaft for movement side to side; there should be no play. People seem to forget the turbo's are pressure lubricated by engine oil, and if the shaft develops play, oil will leak towards the intake side due to the presence of intake vacuum on that side. If it is leaking oil, it needs to be replaced or rebuilt. A new one is going to run $3k from the dealer, or you could check locally and see who rebuilds them in your area. As you are in Jake Raby's backyard, I would call his shop and ask who they use.
  24. Welcome to RennTech The engine compartment blower fan may have gotten something stuck in the fan, which can make one Hell of din. No true factory PSE drones, period. If a PSE is installed without all the controls, the default position is open or loud. Takes some pictures and post them, I'm willing to bet it is a cheap aftermarket unit.
  25. You could start with a leak down test to check the sealing condition of the rings. You could also take a peek at the turbo to see if it has oil inside of it on the intake side.
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