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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Someone recently posted that their shop stopped using M1 when the formula was changed recently. To me, M1 feels like dishwater. I use Redline, but that's a touchy subject with at least one person around here; so I'll leave it at that. It was not recent, Mobil 1 started reformulating their products just after they were acquired by Exxon in 1989; shortly after they lost a legal action over the exclusive rights to use the term “full synthetic”. Products that were believed to be true Group IV (PAO base stocks) were reformulated downwards, becoming Group III+, and eventually Group III oils. Along the way, some grades lost all ACEA ratings, most notably the 15W-50 grade that once was the mainstay of the air-cooled 911 crowd. The products that retained their ACEA ratings, like the 0W-40, also showed a marked decline in several critical performance criteria such as film strength, ability to stay in grade, TBN values, etc.; demonstrating that they were no longer the products they once were. As for other small compounder brands, we don’t like or dislike them; we simply refuse to use products that employ deceptive marketing tactics to imply they have ratings credentials that they actually do not have…………….And I am not “alone” in that opinion……………..
  2. Which is exactly why we put a dab of antiseize on the treads, along with a new washer, before we put them back in......
  3. You triggered an "EVAP system massive leak" CEL by not turning the engine off while refilling. These cars have a closed loop vapor control system on the fuel tank, running the car with out the gas cap makes it look like a vacuum leak. It should eventually clear itself after several running cycles if you do not repeat the mistake.............. Im not so sure that it dissaperas after a couple of driving cycles. IF the car has "EVAP system massive leak" the car has to light the warning up beacuse the ristriction of exhaust laws. Not sure about the US cars but they have more laws about that so I think it is worse with US cars. I hate to say "trust me", but you need to on this one. Leaving the car running while refueling gives you the same code (usually P0455) as leaving the gas cap off; “EVAP large leak”, which will clear itself in about 4-5 run cycles………….. woooow JFP your the winner :P i did exactlly what you said the sign was still on, but when i reached home turn off after an hour going out again start the engine sign OFF thanks allloot B) Glad I could be of help...............
  4. Which turned out to be nothing useful or of value. There was a time when 0W-40 Mobil 1 (and their other grades) were world class products; unfortunately, they no longer are………………….regardless of what their customer service people say.
  5. "Becasue we told you so............." Now there is a sound argument with a lot of technical facts to back it up.............
  6. You triggered an "EVAP system massive leak" CEL by not turning the engine off while refilling. These cars have a closed loop vapor control system on the fuel tank, running the car with out the gas cap makes it look like a vacuum leak. It should eventually clear itself after several running cycles if you do not repeat the mistake.............. Im not so sure that it dissaperas after a couple of driving cycles. IF the car has "EVAP system massive leak" the car has to light the warning up beacuse the ristriction of exhaust laws. Not sure about the US cars but they have more laws about that so I think it is worse with US cars. I hate to say "trust me", but you need to on this one. Leaving the car running while refueling gives you the same code (usually P0455) as leaving the gas cap off; “EVAP large leak”, which will clear itself in about 4-5 run cycles…………..
  7. You triggered an "EVAP system massive leak" CEL by not turning the engine off while refilling. These cars have a closed loop vapor control system on the fuel tank, running the car with out the gas cap makes it look like a vacuum leak. It should eventually clear itself after several running cycles if you do not repeat the mistake..............
  8. No, the Porsche coolant is concentrated and must be mixed 50/50 with distilled water before use.............
  9. You didn't say which model you have, but in general you should be fine with two gallons; also buy two gallons of distilled water (about a buck at any supermarket) and pre-mix with the Porsche antifreeze before adding to the car. You will have a small quantity of the mix left over, which is fine for "top ups". If you are interested, you can also obtain the vacuum fill tool that Porsche sells for over $500 for about $100 online, just google "Uview" (they make the tool for Porsche, but also sell it under their name; come with adaptors to fit just about anything with a cooling system). The the vacuum fill tool, you can recharge the cooling system with no fear of air pockets in about 5 min..................
  10. I'm satisfied that is meets the standard. I could care less whether they paid ACEA to rate it. The important fact is that it does meet it. PS - The same goes for the Porsche "rated" tires. Who cares, except those selling the Porsche rated tires. PPS - We're obviously not going to change each other's mind. I'm done with the discussion. :beer: I just thought you'd like to know you are being lied to, but I guess I was wrong................
  11. II still see no definitive statement that it actually holds any ACEA ratings, only that he "recommends" a product that "would satisfy ACEA".........more marketing verbiage. You should ask him if it actually holds ACEA ratings, and when it received them..........because I already know what the answer will be................ They have been playing this “legally acceptable terminology” game for years………..
  12. I have read a lot about IMS, but I don't really know what it actually does. Can someone explain it. Thanks, The IMS essentially takes the timing from the crank and send it out to the cams. The IMS sits below the crank in the engine. There is a chain that goes from the crank to the IMS. The IMS has two other chains that transfer the timing to the cams. The back one (by the bearing, flywheel side) that goes to the exhaust cam on cylinders 1-3. The other end of the IMS has a chain that goes to the exhaust cam on cylinders 4-6 (this end also runs the oil pump). If the bearing fails, the IMS has no support in the rear and the chains can/will jump timing. This timing jump causes the pistons to strike the valves and mayhem ensues, causing a total engine failure. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S What have they changed in the 987/997 engine design that eliminates this problem? They eliminated the IMS shaft entirely in 2010............
  13. That's good enough for me. :clapping: That being the case, I’m sure you will get the outcome you so richly deserve………….
  14. Really? The following are quotes from the Redline website: For 0W40: "Recommended for water-cooled Porsche and Mercedes-Benz 229.5/229.51 applications" "Recommended for API SM/SL/SJ/SH/SG/CF and ACEA A3/B4" For 5W40: "As specified for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Porsche and VW applications" "Recommended for API SM/CJ-4/CI-4/CI-4 PLUS Also recommended for ACEA A3/B4/E9" I don't think they'd mention those ratings without being pretty sure they meet them. Wanna bet they their oils do meet the spec, but they've just never spent the money to formally get them listed? PS - I am biased, as I use Redline 5W40 in my Transsybera (GTS) V8. Reread what you quoted from Redline, you will note the "recommended", which is the verbiage that their marketing department came up with after ACEA called them on making ACEA rated claims that simply are not true. According to ACEA, Redline had never submitted products for independent verification of passing ACEA ratings. So, no, they do not have ACEA ratings, never did; and the “recommendations” are those of Redline marketing………………
  15. No, because it has no ACEA ratings (never submitted)................... I'd use Castrol Syntec 10W-40 which has ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings.
  16. LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own)............. Have you made this change? It can't be that big a deal , can it? I have one in my personal car, as well as several customers that use it as well. It really helps to lower the engine oil temps as well as the coolant (the M96 actually runs much hotter than the grossly inaccurate dash gauge indicates). We have also observed an improvement in UoA’s after switching………. I called LN and said they do not sell them septratly. Where now? Interesting, as they had been offering them to shops that way, and selling the required tool as well. Perhaps it wasn’t a financially attractive approach. Currently, LN/Raby are the only ones I know of offering them in North America (and I have looked), so I guess you are stuck with the housing………….
  17. [/b] And your impression of the car was??????????????? :unsure: I absolutely loved it. I’ve owned turbo’s in the past; this was a very impressive car. It was also a PDK car, which is one reason I wanted to drive it, and I have to say that I was very impressed, and unthreatened by this new technology. I sincerely feel that my current 6-speed may just be my last…… To answer one of your original suppositions, it is also my understanding that the PDK will be the “standard” transmission offered on the 2010 Turbo, with the 6-speed being an option………
  18. Having recently driven a 2010 turbo cab, I'd have to say your are incorrect..................
  19. What is on their vaunted “approved list” tends to be overly thin “W” weights that do not hold up well. 10W-40, from years of UoA’s collected on customer cars, is just fine……………
  20. LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own)............. Have you made this change? It can't be that big a deal , can it? I have one in my personal car, as well as several customers that use it as well. It really helps to lower the engine oil temps as well as the coolant (the M96 actually runs much hotter than the grossly inaccurate dash gauge indicates). We have also observed an improvement in UoA’s after switching……….
  21. 5W-30 is a bit too thin, you should be using something that is "X"W-40. Look for a 10W-40 full synthetic with the right ACEA ratings.
  22. LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own).............
  23. We use 10W-40 year round; the outside air temp at the shop is currently 22F.....................you will be fine with 10W-40.
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