Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Problem is that the fourth stalk moves on two axis; forward and back, and up and down. If the mirror switch can mimic those motions, and generate momentary contact, it might work. You would need to research the wiring as I have no experience trying to do it this way.
  2. Probably not, the stalk functions as a momentary contact switch, if the mirror selector switch is on/off in two of the four positions, that would cause the OBC to continuously cycle in those position. You are also going to either purchase a premade aftermarket wiring harnesses for the cluster to function with either a dash switch or with the fourth stalk, or make up your own. Fabing your own is going to require finding specific size pin connectors to match the connectors already in the dash. VW used to carry them. It is much cleaner to use the fourth stalk, which can actually added without taking the column apart, or simply source the four stalk multifunctional switch and replace the three stalk. We have done several of these, but always replaced the multifunction switch with the four stalk version to retain the clean factory look to the conversion. If your dash displays the outside temp, the system is active.
  3. Durametric has to walk a very fine line in their diagnostic system as they are operating inside Porsche's proprietary diagnostic systems, and they know Porsche will come down on them hard if they reproduce anything Porsche sees as protected intellectual property. People have caught the rath of Porsche's lawyers for as little as reproducing a page for a vehicle's owners manual, and Durametric does not want to go there. And like all diagnostic systems manufacturer's, they expect the use has a modicum of knowledge of industry standards and terminology, and access to service information for the vehicle. BCM for example is an industry standard term, and means Body Control Module, and is a control system for non engine or driveline components such as lights, windows, security, door locks and access control, and various comfort controls. Service resets are similar, with oil being obvious, while interim is for service items the come up between major or main service interval items (30K miles, 60K miles, etc.), and is again an industry standard term that applies to either your Macan or a Ford Fiesta.
  4. We made our own using a 134A line with a M14X1.5 adaptor on it to connect to the fitting on the pan. You can also buy Porsche's line, part# 000.721.950.71 Connecting hose -- US MSRP $40.05.
  5. I've never seen one rebuilt. I think you are going to have to bite the bullet on this one...…………….
  6. Welcome to RennTech Board sponsor Sunset Porsche carries the part for $4,636.
  7. We fix them for a living, so over time we develop “work arounds” to offset problems like this. When we get a customer complaining about constant smoke start ups, first we check the sump vacuum level with a digital manometer to make sure the AOS is still functional, then we look at the oil level. Lowering the oil level just slightly helps, but the part was designed to be serviced on regular intervals, much like the water pumps, which need to be changed out proactively to prevent the impellers from breaking up and getting scattered through the cooling system. It is just the way things are......
  8. If you are suffering issues with the factory AOS, I would be looking at your oil sump level; cold, it should be one to two lines below the maximum level. Overfilling the sump to the max indication can shorten the lifespan of the AOS. We see this issue all the time as people tend to fill the oil to the max line and beyond (there is no indication of when the system is overfilled). That said, the factory AOS units, while the best available, are not impervious to failures. Like brake pads or a clutch, they are considered maintenance consumables. I think the two parts you are referring to are oil scavenging units, which are designed to help get the oil out of the cam covers and back to the sump, and they are rarely if ever replaced.
  9. Porsche has gone rather stiff necked about adding options post delivery. If memory serves, you have to have the clock, and pay Porsche to recode the car as having both. Most dealers seem to charge the exact amount you would have laid out to have it as a factory option. Not a pretty situation, but then you are dealing with Porsche...…...
  10. It would make sense to be sure you don't have any leaks before replacing all the coolant. Once everything is tight, the Uview is the way to go and is a great time saver when replacing the coolant mix.
  11. Nice car; I would suggest monitoring the coolant level at least a few times a week to see if it moves again. If it does drop, consider getting the coolant system pressure tested, which will allow you to look over every hose connection, etc. These engines used cemented in coolant hose connections that are known leakers, and in fact most tracks won't let you out on the racing surface unless these fittings have either been pinned or welded to eliminate any chance of getting a system dump on the track surface.
  12. Welcome to RennTech Stop playing around and get it scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool to find out what is wrong.
  13. What kind of fuel pressure and delivery rates are you seeing?
  14. They are two seperate systems, so they should not be able to interact with each other. What may be an at issue is the cluster may have problems.
  15. Run a leak down test on the engine, bore scope it, pull the sump cover and oil filter looking for metal like you have already found, look it over carefully for external damage, check the engine number on the sump rail to make sure it is what it is supposed to be (not a 2.5L masquerading as a 3.6L). You need to also be careful what year the engine is as major systems changed several times (DME version, fuel system, communications protocols like the expanding use of CAN bus technology for the sensors to communicate over in later model years, etc.) While just about any year will bolt in, not every year will connect to your chassis and communicate properly.
  16. The answer to that question is almost endless: New IMS, new RMS, new AOS, new low temp thermostat, new water pump, etc. etc...…..
  17. Check with your local PCA chapter, and do some searching. Engines occasionally show up here, but you need to find one closer to home, you really don't want to be shipping one of these all over the place.
  18. Rebuilding the M96/97 engine is not for the faint of heart or budget; specialty tools and knowledge are a necessity, and just returning it to factory spec can run you $15K in parts and machine shop time. You can source a running engine usually for less than $5K.
  19. Bigger question is where did it come from? In good health, these engines do not do that...………...
  20. Welcome to RennTech You have a seven year old car, well out of warranty; good luck with that...….
  21. The very latest models still have drain plugs, and siphoning oil out of one of these cars is at a minimum tricky, at the worst a disaster. Do a search for those that had problems siphoning oil out of these cars and you will see what I mean. And just as a by-the-by, the oil level in these engine's should not be at the max line, but rather one to two lines below when the engine is cold.
  22. Using a digital manometer, check the vacuum level at the oil cap; if it is more than 5 inches of water, you need a new AOS.
  23. You will get 5-6 liters of old fluid out of your Tip, and changing it a second time is not a bad idea. This should help you with the front diff:
  24. You might want to contact Jake Raby at Flat Six Innovations, he has actually published a lot of engine internal specs for Porsche's that cannot be found anywhere else.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.