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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If your VarioCam system was not functional, the car should code indicating that. With the Durametric system, you can activate the solenoids one at a time while it is running and see the cam position change in real time, plus the car should stumble a bit if you do this while the car is at idle. Unfortunately, due to the size of the cam deviation on bank 2, my guess would be it is probably out of position due to the recent installation.
  2. When you did the repair, was the engine locked at TDC, with the cams also locked. In position after the engine was lockedatTDC?
  3. It is sounding more like the fets in he DME are not functioning properly. Again, the way the solenoids are supposed to function is one wire carries battery voltage to the solenoid when the car is running, the second wire runs to the fet in the DME which functions as a gate or switch that changes at a fixed RPM. In my experience, the wire going to the fet reads low (~3 volts DC) until the RPM target is reached, at which that wire turns into ground and the solenoid activates. You are indicating battery voltage on both solenoid harness wires, which will never activate the solenoids. As for the misfiring cylinder #3, electrically there are only three possibles: the plug is bad, the coil is bad, the coil harness connection is bad. So if you have power at the coil harness connector, and the connector is fully seated, you are left with the coil or plug. Pulling and replacing the plug is simple enough, and the coil pack can be tested by moving it to another cylinder to see if the fault code reappeared there.
  4. Typically, when an expansion valve fails, the high side pressure goes way too high and kills the compressor.
  5. The two not illuminated ( N & O ) are for the air bags and roll over bar extension on cabriolet models.
  6. We don't create the news; we just report it........................😉
  7. The Durametric system can see every value the DME sees, but it cannot create values that are not part of the DME's PID file. As for spec values, or explanations of what those values mean, that is not Durametric's prevue; if you want to know what the car's specs are, or an explanation of the codes it reports, you need either the factory OBD II manual for the car (about $2,000.00 when it was still in print, which it no longer is), or the vehicle's factory service manual (13 volumes, but also no longer in print, but available online with either a monthly or annual subscription of around $5,000.00, depending upon what you ask to see). Your other choice to get everything you want, you can lease the current PIWIS III (lease only, not for sale), starting with an opening annual lease cost of $20,000.00. "Speed cost money; how fast do you want to go?"
  8. Remember, both solenoids are electrically "hot" when the car is running, regardless of the cam activation, which happens when the DME active position conditions are met (read RPM levels), and the fets create a path to ground, which is what causes the solenoid to move and the cam positions to change, so there can be common wire colors to both that are carrying battery voltage.
  9. And ten seconds after I posted that, I realized I have to be wrong on that point as the Durametric can activate either one independent of the other, so there has to be separate circuits, at least for diagnostic purposes, and the DME can by throwing different codes tell you that one specific bank is not assuming an active position. There has to be two circuits.
  10. Without sitting down and tracing the wiring diagram for the car, I would say my answer would be a "qualified" yes as the two different bank solenoids do not act independently of each other, so the simplest system would be one circuit to trigger both.
  11. That relay panel is under the driver's side dash, it is in the rear on some Caymans.
  12. Yes, positive lead to pin being tested, other lead to ground; you should see DC voltage. Yes, the DME and ECU relay are the same thing.
  13. Five is definitely the one missing, so if it isn't the coil, it has to be the plug.
  14. This may start out sounding weird, but bear with me. You have two pin connectors on the harness coming from the DME to the solenoid, using a multimeter set to at least 12V DC, you should read around 3V on one pin, and battery voltage on the other (engine running). The low voltage pin is seeing the transistor or fet in the DME that is the ground (yes, I know grounds do not normally show voltage, but in this case it does because of the electronic device the DME uses, it has a low voltage DC signal on it). The second pin should show battery voltage (~13V DC) when the engine is running. Obviously, that is not what you are seeing, and as a 9V battery can trigger the solenoid, it looks like the solenoid is good, but the voltage on the harness is low and wavering with RPM's, which it should not be doing. That wire gets its power from the ECM relay, left side of the engine bay (if memory serves), which may be going south.
  15. Cylinder #5 is misfiring, try checking the electrical connector to the coil on that cylinder to see if it is seated; if it is fine, you may have a bad coil which you can test by moving it to another cylinder and seeing if the fault follows it.
  16. Should battery voltage, or very close to it. Are you sure your battery and alternator are behaving?
  17. An additional thought: Have you back probed the solenoid harness connector B+ with the car running to see if there is actually supply voltage?
  18. The way the system works is that the DME supplies a ground to the always hot solenoid at the appropriate RPM level, allowing the solenoid to assume the active position; so it is beginning to sound like you have either (1) a harness fault between the solenoid and the DME (high resistance causing a voltage drop), (2) a breach in the harness itself, or (3)an internal failure in the DME. I would disconnect the solenoid harness at the cam cover, and using a wiring diagram, check the harness from the cam cover connector to the appropriate DME harness pin for resistance, which would cause a voltage drop and stall the solenoids. If the harness is fine, you have a DME issue.
  19. If the car was in my shop, I would be testing the harness between the sensor and the DME for continuity, resistance, etc. The codes are specific to banks: P0140 is bank# 1, cylinders 1-3; P1121 is for bank # 2, cylinders 4-6. As both are signal interruption related, I would be checking the harness, both electrically, and visually for any damage. These kinds of faults can be a pain to locate the problem, as it can be anywhere along the harness (rodent damage, wire insulations becoming brittle and splitting, etc).
  20. Welcome to RennTech I don't know where you got that definition for P1502, but that is not the code for the throttle jacking spring, it is the code for faulty fuel pump relay, so I would start there.....
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