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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. On the 9X6 and 9X7 Porsches, the engine crankcase vacuum reading is normally in the region of -4.0” to -6.0” H2O (Inches of water). When an oil separator fails, the crankcase vacuum can rise to -10.0” to -15.0” H2O, or even much worse (-40.0” H2O) depending on the extent of AOS failure. On the 9X7.2 and 9X1 Porsches, the engine crankcase vacuum reading is normally in the region of -14.0” to -16.0” H2O (Inches of water). When an oil separator fails, the crankcase vacuum can rise to -20.0” to -25.0” H2O, or even much worse (-30 to -40.0” H2O) depending on the extent of AOS failure.
  2. Considering that even a used DME is going for nearly $2K, and a new unit is nearly $8K and would require recoding the car to make it work, I would definitely get it checked. 😉
  3. Welcome to RennTech Replacing that module will require coding the module with a PIWIS unit. I would suggest getting the system scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostic tool, looking at the alarm system codes to point you to what is faulting before doing anything.
  4. Should be a T10 bulb if memory serves...................
  5. Considering what people do to these key fobs (gone through the family washer, spent a couple of days at the bottom of a lake, ran it over with the car, etc.), I am surprise that they work at all. Eventually everything wears out; when it does, then it is time to go to the dealer and make your wallet a little easier to sit on.................😉
  6. One of the biggest problems is that Porsche stopped publishing vehicle service manuals after 2004, going to an online system that is built into the PIWIS system, which is a lease only diagnostic system with a first year's lease at $20,000. So basic service information became very scarce. To my knowledge, the filter unit itself is not very prone to causing problems. I would make sure all the lines were free flowing, blowing them out with compressed air to be sure, and that the valves were tested for functionality (they are a simple open/closed action, operated electrically).
  7. One of the valves associated with the canister acts as a vent for the gas tank and can cause problems when filling the tank. I would examine and test the valves to make sure they are functional.
  8. Working from memory here, so bear with me: To gain access to the canister remove the black plastic cover over the brake booster. Its in front of the battery, near the center of the vehicle but slightly towards the pass. side. The cover is held in with maybe 8 Philips screws. Once that is removed you will see there is a plastic bracket that holds the canister to the body, if I remember right its held in with a T40 screw. After that you have two "quick" disconnect lines on the bottom of the canister and one electrical connector on the top of the canister. Its kind of a beast to get out, the conn
  9. Welcome to RennTech Noting your comment about rodents, there is a flap valve in the gas fill neck that is operated by a combination of a switch and magnet that has to open for gas to flow in. It is located on the side of the filler neck itself. I would start there, checking the associated wiring for damage. This diagram if for an earlier Boxster, but you can see the controls near the top of the filler neck, yours should be similar: Good luck, rodent damage is always a pain to work on.
  10. That cover opens into the engine's cooling system, so don't go there. Remove the manifold section that is in the way.
  11. The engine panel behind the seats is not obstructed when the top is down, simply remove the carpeted panel to expose the metal panel held in by fasteners. Remove the fasteners, and you are staring at the belt.
  12. First of all, the 2000 - 2002 cars are well known for requiring long drive cycles before resetting the I/M Readiness monitors, having to drive 200 or more miles is common. Second, disconnecting the battery will take you back to zero; the monitors in question will have to start all over again if you do that.
  13. For the most part, the regulators are lubed with white lithium grease, and a very little goes a long way with this stuff as it tends to stick to everything, so you don't want excess getting all over everything. The motor should not need relubrication.
  14. The 97 DME was a kind of "one off", so with very low numbers, there wasn't a whole lot of attempts or interest to modify it. The immobilizer issue is a real one, as losing the keys, or letting the immobilizer get wet under the seat, a common problem, results in spending a lot of cash just to get back on the road, much less in any better condition because you have to buy both an immobilizer and a matching DME. That is one of the reasons people moved to the 98-99 DME, which would accept immobilizer only replacements. Realistically, headers and exhaust will make more noise, but only
  15. Exactly how do you know, "I own one of the first 1997 Boxsters 2.5L sold in America."? And the only thing that is not programmable on the 1997 is the immobilizer code information, in all other aspects it is programable. If your immobilizer has to be replaced, you have to get a new DME that is matched to it, rather than just reprogram the DME to accept the new immobilizer as in the later cars. The aftermarket crowd didn't do much for these cars because the DME is unique to the year, not because it is inaccessible. Your DME can also be replaced with the DME from a 98-99 car (if i
  16. Should work fine. The thermostat has to be remove to facilitate full flow.
  17. We built an entire system to do this that included a hot water heater, and a catch tank, which recirculated hot water with detergent in it to clean out the system. The pump came from a plumbing store. We set it up with hoses that connected to the hose to the thermostat housing after removing the thermostat, and to the line coming back from the radiators. Everything was mounted on a cart so we could role it under the car while it was up on the lift.
  18. Welcome to RennTech I would start by flipping the seats forward, removing the engine panel, and taking a look at your serpentine belt. which may either be broken or worn so badly it is slipping. All of your issues seem to be electric in nature, so your battery may be weak, possible due to the belt, or just weak on its own. If this isn't the source of the problems, I would look next at the electrical section of your ignition switch, a relatively inexpensive items that is well know for being the source of all sorts of electrical gremlins.
  19. I think your efforts would be highly educational for many forum members, if only to address a specific issue they might be working on. You also have my, and I am sure others, admiration for tackling a herculean project. Your alarm problem could be related to the vehicle's sound system, some of the component's were connected to the alarm system to prevent them from being stolen. One way to find out is to scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool like the Durametric system. These scan tool can read the last ten alarm faults stored in the DME, and could point you to exactly wh
  20. I think you just identified it, those motors are designed to be momentary, not constantly run 😒
  21. A clock spring is beneath the air bag in the steering wheel. P0740 is the code for multiple possible issues: Fluid level not correct Torque converter clutch worn Mechanical damage to pressure regulator #4. Open electrical circuit(s) or short(s). Stuck valve body valve. Most commonly, the fluid level is not correct.
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