JFP in PA

14 hours ago, JFL2021 said:

JFP

 

I forgot to answer your question.  For me this car was purchased for parts only, but the more I look at it there is no reason why I can’t make it a runner. 

 

It’s 99% complete with low miles.  The pics were taken when I got the car home and it was in a sorry state.  It looks completely different

today.  Carpets are ready to go back in but I want to sort out the last of the gremlins first

 

I can post my progress if anyone is interested.  I’m just hopping to get a little insight from those who have already gone down this road with their 996

I think your efforts would be highly educational for many forum members, if only to address a specific issue they might be working on.  You also have my, and I am sure others, admiration for tackling a herculean project.

Your alarm problem could be related to the vehicle's sound system, some of the component's were connected to the alarm system to prevent them from being stolen.  One way to find out is to scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool like the Durametric system.  These scan tool can read the last ten alarm faults stored in the DME, and could point you to exactly what is triggering the system.

Good luck! 👍

14 hours ago, Edward FitzRandolph said:

Second, the sound was coming from passenger seat. The adjustment switch on the passenger front was stuck, but not enough to actually move the seat but just enough for the motor to be engaged...lol

 

Still need to figure out the burning smell! Still take that in consideration GSpence2 - thank you!

I think you just identified it, those motors are designed to be momentary, not constantly run 😒

A clock spring is beneath the air bag in the steering wheel.

P0740 is the code for multiple possible issues:

• Fluid level not correct
• Torque converter clutch worn
• Mechanical damage to pressure regulator #4.
• Open electrical circuit(s) or short(s).
• Stuck valve body valve.

Most commonly, the fluid level is not correct.

I have a question: Why?

I have spent a good portion of my life working on these cars, nothing is ever simple or remotely inexpensive.  I have seen the photos you have posted on other sites, and really wonder why you are taking on something of this magnitude? 

The factory default for the valves is the loud position, so if they are not hooked up, that is what you get.  The valves only move to the "quiet" position when activated.  The original reason for the valves was the incredibly restrictive Swiss noise laws for residential neighborhoods, so when the vehicle was operating a low speeds, it was quiet.

50 minutes ago, Parrnan said:

Yes, it's what I think too.  

 

But to be honest I'm surprised, as a PSE retrofit at a Porsche dealership cost about $6,000 (canadian) when a PSE install (without the consol's PSE button and the button programming) at the local shop using an aftermarket valve controler unit (like the Fabspeed one) will cost about $3,300 (canadian).  Nearly half the price...  I'm surprised that no one ever tried that.  Considering that the Fabspeed valvetronic, or any other valved system, is a direct bolt-on for those who already have the PSE, you unplug the hoses from the PSE valves and plug them on the Fabspeed valvetronic's valves and it works fine, so why it would not work on the other way (PSE exhaust with Fabspeed valve controler using Fabspeed remote control to open or close the valves). In theory, I cannot see any reason why it would not work as fine.

What you are overlooking is the simple fact that most PSE post delivery installations never hooked anything up as the default position for the valves is "loud", which is what people wanted the PSE for in the first place.  So who's valves are on the exhaust system is pretty much irrelevant.  We have probably installed a couple dozen PSE's over the years and I can only remember one that the owner wanted fully hooked up; and later even he eventually said activation of the valves was a waste of money.

1 minute ago, Adrian Chirila said:

the P2281 it is possible to be from that aluminium pipe from the bottom intercooler?

The code is pretty specific, it is seeing a difference between where the MAF is and where the throttle body is located; the leak has to be in between those two elements, but does not preclude that there may be other leaks that have not thrown codes.

3 minutes ago, Adrian Chirila said:

I will change the purge valve including that pipe.and I will look on all the pipes from MAFs to throttle body.I don't know where to find a pressure test here in Uk.

Thank you

You can use a smoke test to find intake systems leak. 

P0441 code is EVAP purge valve, alongside the drive side intake manifold tubes.

P2281 Code is most likely an air leak between the MAF and the throttle body, the code generally means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a degree of airflow at the mass airflow (MAF) sensor which does not exist at the throttle body.

1 hour ago, Silver_TT said:

Agree.  But that $4,500 was cheap.  Before some smart person alerted me to the existence of GBox (gee whiz, who could that be) my option from Porsche was a new gearbox 😬

Only proves that even blind squirrel finds and acorn every once in a while........................

Running the wrong juice in these gearboxes can get real expensive real quick.........😉

4 minutes ago, CapeCoral944 said:

Thank you, I’m sure your right about the pads. Do you think the hydraulic tensioner might be bad as well?

It could, but failing hydraulic tensioners typically cause excessive start up noise, not deviation value problems.  As you would be removing the hydraulic tensioners to replace the pads, it would be a good time to update them, just be careful as the tensioners are not all the same and cannot be interchanged.

Perhaps, but then every day you get to make all new friends..........................😱

They have a snap on ball connector at the transmission end, which wear with time and become loose:

Different, but not my taste.  Sorry!

40 minutes ago, CapeCoral944 said:

2000 C2 6 speed, 82K miles. I’ve had for almost 6 months 3k miles. CEL P01128 the other day. Only other previous codes were P01128, P01130, and P0327. I cleared these back in December to see if they would repeat.  When I was checking the FRA and RKAT, I also decided to check the cam deviations. Bank 1 showing over 12 and bank 2 over 4 at time of CEL. I cleared and rechecked, those values stay steady, coming down slightly (11 and 3) as the car heats up. Car drives fine. I changed the oil shortly after purchase, nothing in the filter. Can tensioner pads being worn allow that much deviation? I’ve read about the possibility of the tensioner being issue, is there a way to test? Anything else that could be causing this problem? 1st thing I did after purchase was IMSB replacement so that is good.

Unfortunately, this is a common sign of wear on the chain pads between the cams, which requires replacing the pads and retiming the cams:

The factory fluid is the way to go with these gearboxes.  I would change the fluid and see how the gearbox responds; if you still have the second gear issue, I would be looking at the detent.

6 hours ago, thormann said:

Hi,

 

sometimes after shifting to the 2nd gear and releasing the clutch, the gear pops out after a grinding noise. This happens mostly once in cold condition, later there is no issue shifting to the 2nd gear. 

 

I have read about the 2nd gear pop out and the gbox solution. I understand, that here the 2nd gear pops out after a while. In my case, the problem occurs only when shifting to the 2nd gear. Once the gear is in (with clutch released), it never pops out. 

 

Most probably my synchro rings are getting worn?  Now I have read about the Redline no slip oil, which could help at least for a while. Has anyone experience with this in a similar case?

Is it worth a try?

 

For the moment I would prefer to avoid the exchange the synchro rings, if possible.

 

Thanks for any comment or help !!

First of all, these transmissions are very sensitive to the lubricant used; over the years, we have had numerous cars come into the shop with everything from noise complaints to poor shifting issues (particularly in the cold), and for the most part everyone was cured by thoroughly draining the lube out of the gearbox and then refilling with the factory fluid.  Most people do not realize that Porsche factory lube, which is a full synthetic, is produced to Porsche specs, and does not conform to aftermarket product specs.  At one time, we inquired of several major lube companies if they had an exact match product, and were uniformly told that, “No, Porsche uses a unique specification lubricant, and the brand market is too small for us to produce a similar product.”

That said, even the factory fill cannot correct existing wear issues, or mechanical issues.  Second gear pop out is a well known problem which can often be corrected by installing an updated detent part like the Gbox fix.

You will be happy with the Stant stuff, some of mine is over 30 years old and still work like new.  Never hurts to buy quality, especially with tools.

Amazon is always a great source of both parts and tools.

First of all, welcome to RennTech 

The clutch is either slipping or it isn't; there are no in between on this.  Regardless of why, you need to pull the car apart and look at it to see what kind of condition it is in.  Then you will start the "while you are in there" items like the RMS, IMS bearing, and AOS unit; all items that would require either pulling it back apart down the road, or in the case of the AOS, several hours of tedious effort to replace a device that could have been done in about 5 min. while you had the trans out.

Good luck.

Start by running voltage drop test across the primary battery cables.  The cables and their ends can look great, but have internal corrosion in the cable itself which can lead to all sorts of problems.  If you see more than 0.5V drop on any cable, it needs to be replaced.

I would also load test the battery, just to be sure it is in good order.

36 minutes ago, timojd said:

I am looking to buy a used 2012 Panamera 4S with 55k miles on it. I am admittedly frightened about some of the hard luck stories I have read about PDK failure. Can someone please tell me if I am being overly paranoid or is PDK failure a high probability? 

Thanks

TD

Unfortunately, what you read online is a distillate; you only see the small number of complaints, not the majority of those that are happy with their choices.  As long as the vehicle has been appropriately serviced and not had the living Hell beat out of it, you will probably be fine.

Early PDK issues were mostly software and/or abuse related; once Porsche got the software issues corrected, the PDK has proven to be reliable. 

1 hour ago, DBJoe996 said:

I have never heard of a feature where the car self locks.  Of course you already know that after 5 days the immobilizer stops listening for the key fob to conserve battery power. Then you have to unlock the car with the key if it is locked.   I leave my car unlocked for days and weeks and it never self locks.  Something is up with this and I don't know what.

 Sorry, but some do exactly that.  You can test a given model by locking the car and arming the security system.  Wait about five min. and unlock the door with key fob, but don't touch anything.  If it has the feature, it will relock the car and arm the security system all by itself after a few min. have passed.

Welcome to RennTech 

Double (or multiple) posting and "bumping" previous post are not allowed under the rules of the forum you agreed to when you joined.  Please be patient, and if one of the board moderators or members knows of a workable solution, they will respond.

2 hours ago, boxstermuscle said:

I didn't buy anything just yet. The Maddox does not include the 48mm adapter that you so kindly sent me a picture of .I am no rush.Oh yea,,the Maddox I was thinking of uses shop air which makes it cheaper and also made in Texas.

 

I think you are mixing things; The air powered Maddox cooling system tool is for filling the system under vacuum.  While it will indicate the presence of leaks as a loss of vacuum, it is not useful for locating them, for that you need to be able to pressurize the system to its rated level, and then look for wherever coolant is coming out.  This can be accelerated by adding a UV dye to the coolant, which will glow when hit with UV light, a common shop procedure.

As for where Maddox tools are made, Maddox tools is one of many registered trademarks of Harbor Freight (details here: https://trademarks.justia.com/870/58/maddox-87058197.html)  I think the Maddox you are thinking of is Maddox Metal Works, Dallas, which produce equipment for the food processing, aerospace & defense, oil field & steel mill equipment and other industries (http://www.maddoxmetalworks.com/aboutus.htm).  As for where Harbor Freight sources their tools, they state "All of our tools are designed and built in partnership with the same factories that many of our top leading competitors use."  In reality, if you order three or more of these tools from HF, you get a complimentary order of Dim sum. 😱