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JFP in PA

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Posts posted by JFP in PA


  1. 1 hour ago, rhkwon said:

    Got a chance to look under the car.  The tank is located above both front axels and the differential housing but I could not see the valve anywhere.  Looks like it is hidden somewhere between the inner fender sheet metal and the tank.  The valve is supposed to be located near the fuel filler tube but I could not see where the fuel filler tube attaches to the tank itself.   

    Would the tank need to be dropped?  So not only the axles, but the differential housing itself would need to be removed to drop the tank? And not to mention the full tank of gas that's in the car.  This is getting worse and worse.  Also, since it's a C4, the tank is the "saddle" tank and not sure if this presents any additional problems.

     

    Are there any tutorials on how to remove a fuel tank and all the associated parts including the fuel filler neck, clamps, etc. on a 1999 C4?

     

    The only one that I am familiar with is from the factory service manuals, but that cannot be reproduced here as it is copyrighted intellectual property.


  2. 38 minutes ago, Craig Joplin said:

    The hard top explains the red clip, which is a great idea to use also for top down window operation, thanks.  Still interested in why Porsche designed windows to go down and not back up with top down.  No big deal just curious like Richard.  

     

    Problem is pretty straight forward, the center latch on the convertible top trips a microswitch when latched, allowing the windows to finish their path upwards into their seals for a weather tight configuration.  When the latch is released prior to putting the top down, the windows drop several inches in order to let the top cycle into its down position.  But now the windows have no signal as the top is retracted, which means when the hard top is put on, or if the driver wanted the windows all the way up with the top down, this would leave the side windows down several inches.  Add the cheap red clip, the windows get the signal to go into the full up position, where they remain until the inside or outside door handle is pulled, retracting them slightly to allow them to clear the top seals (as if a top is in place). Again, a simple solution to an otherwise complicated problem.....


  3. 40 minutes ago, Richard Flores said:

    So why is this engineered like this for the windows to be down 4 in when the top is down?  Has to be explanation somewhere.  Very weird I think as I like my windows to be all the way up.  

     

    Has to do with the hard top option; when the hard top is in place, nothing is pushing down the microswitch, hence the red clip so the windows go all the way up with the hard top on. Simple fix for a complicated problem...……..


  4. 21 minutes ago, rhkwon said:

    That’s what I was afraid of. So is dropping the axle a tough job?  Would the axle be the same thing as the differential?  Sorry I’m being so stupid but suspension is definitely not my area of expertise. 

     

    Yes, we are talking about the front diff, as it sits under the fuel tank..  How hard is obviously related to how well you are equipped and your mechanical expertise.


  5. 1 hour ago, rhkwon said:

    Does anyone know where this is located and is there a tutorial on how to replace?

    Fuel Tank Vapor Control Valve for charcoal canister
    996-605-203-01-M244

    Not sure where exactly it's located. Is it in the front passenger wheel well near the fuel filler vent valve? The symptoms I am having is gas smell in the car and lots of pressure when the gas cap is opened along with the check engine light. I forgot what code it was as I bought the part last year and not even really sure this will fix the issue. Saw a diagram showing that it is possibly located/connected to the fuel tank. How do I access this? A thread on rennlist mentioned a similiar issue that was fixed with this part. But the entire front end axle had to be dropped to access the tank? WTH? My car is a 1999 C4 btw. 
     

    30EE50E2-C694-4ACA-8376-B03C8D42F70D.jpeg

     

    Item #17 in diagram:

    spacer.png

     

    On 4 wheel drive cars, the front axle may be in the way.


  6. 5 minutes ago, Kristoffer Sellebjerg said:

    Update:

     

    Oil filter cup and oil filter replaced.

     

    Oil pressure sender (switch) replaced.

     

    Oil pressure control piston, spring and crush washer replaced.

     

    All original parts.

     

    The problem still persists. Actually the low oil pressure warning light is steady on now when the engine is running. Of course I did not run the engine for more than a few seconds, but everything sounds normal. 

     

    I cut the old oil filter open to check for metal debris - looks nice and clean.

     

    I do not have an oil pressure tester - but I measured on the oil pressure switch to check the oil pressure. When engine is not running, the switch is closed to ground. Engine started - the switch opens and break the circuit. A few seconds after turning off the engine, the switch closes to ground again. I guess this indicates normal oil pressure - as the operation of the oil pressure switch seems normal?

     

    The wire from the switch to the cluster ( White connector, pin no. 6) is fine - i checked that. Could this be a bad cluster issue?

     

     

     

    I would put a mechanical pressure gauge on it before doing anything else; you need to know what the actual pressure is before doing anything else.

    • Like 1

  7. 39 minutes ago, Cooks said:

    I had a good look in the boot wiring can see nothing obvious. Would an aftermarket stereo be linked into this. The wiring is abit all over behind there but when I pull the fuse on the stereo the drain doesn’t drop. 

     

     

    Also. I have noted that the frunk and boot lights to not light at all. Could this be linked??

     

    Anyone could have hooked up anything to this circuit; people do the damnedest things to electrical systems.  Without looking at it, it is impossible to know.


  8. 13 hours ago, Richard Flores said:

     

    So I'm getting the seats redone. Should I put my ctek on battery? will this be ok? Or should I disconnect the battery before removing seats? I heard that I should not put key in ignition when seats are out or dreaded airbag light will come on and will have to get it reset. So wondering if the ctek is ok to keep battery charged.

     

    So I'm also going to take out the immobilzer and add the ecu doctor waterproof box. Any tips? I saw install video and looks easy.

     

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

     

     

     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    For a first timer. I would recommend disconnecting the battery.


  9. 11 hours ago, Schnell Gelb said:

    Hint - don't go wild with the pressure because the coolant tank in the trunk can be a little fragile. If you pump up pressure to 13 psi, that should be plenty to find a leak. If the system will not hold that pressure and you can't find where the leak is .report back your results here and we'll try to help more. It is possible that someone put oil in the wrong 'hole' -easily dome by a novice.

     

    Take the system up to at least 18 PISG, that is where it normally runs, so if anything is gong to fail at that pressure, might as well be in the shop.


  10. 4 hours ago, Craig Joplin said:

    Craig

    2000 Boxster S

    6sp

    Search unsuccessful. Therefore I ask.  Upon lowering top, windows drop 4 inches. Then will not go back up.  Windows will go down but will not return up at all. Put top up and they work fine. I want windows to go all the way up when top down on cool days and nights

     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    The windows are operating as designed.  To make them go all the way up, the microswitch above the rear view mirror needs to be depressed and held.  Porsche made a cheap plastic clip for this purpose, which your dealer can get for you.


  11. 1 hour ago, racer512 said:

    We have 2001 996 Turbo that keeps, throwing po410 p4011 secondary air faults. Replaced all the normal parts, vacuum system is tight etc . We have noticed while scanning the (4-6) O2 sensor bank two there is no long term signal displayed my scan tool shows a Mil volt signal of -110.97 on the 4-6 bank only. the (1-3) bank shows a flutching number -0.3 to 0.2 wiring checks out with an Ohmmeter so The Ecu is open? 

    Since the ecu monitors the O2 sensors to see if the secondary air is working  and there is no signal from Bank two it sets the code? 

     

    Anyone know where I can the ECU/ DME tested.

     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

     

    ECU Doctors

     

     


  12. 3 hours ago, Cooks said:

    Yeah I did think it was strange that the spoiler and boot mech did not drop the discharge. Seems with fuse d7 out the boot will not open either. 

     

    Excuse the the stupid question. When you say trace it back. Do you mean follow the harness from the boot back and make sure nothing is spliced in to it? 

     

    Cheers 

     

    Basically, yes.  Something is pulling a drain on the system somewhere between the fuse block and the spoiler, trick now is finding it.


  13. 2 minutes ago, Cooks said:

    Thank you! 

     

    @JFP in PA it’s a 2003 plate 2.7. Also a UK car. 

     

    Cheers 

     

    OK, D7 has been used for hazard warning lights and/or the spoiler, but at some point someone may have cut into it to add something.  In general, the spoiler or hazards should not be drawing current when not in operation, as you showed when you disconnected the plugs.  You need to trace the circuit and look further.


  14. 35 minutes ago, Cooks said:

    Hi all, 

     

    first post! 

     

    I have had a battery drain over a couple of days 300ma when tested with a multimeter.  Identified it to be the rear spoiler on my 986, by pulling each fuse and waiting for the reading to drop. Removed the fuse and battery holds charge ok.

     

    So stripped the boot out and disconnected the plug on the white boot cable motor (what a mission it was!) no drop in current still 300ma. Pulled the spoiler conections too and the relays in the boot, no change. 

     

    With fuse D7 removed the MA drop instantly to 40ma when I lock the doors. With D7 connected Rear spoiler and boot mechanism disconnected. Car stays at 300Ma when locked and when left for 20 mins or so? Maybe need to leave it longer but I just think it is strange that it drops instantly with D7 removed

     

    Anu advice or help would be appreciated

     

    thanks. 

     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    Year and model of the vehicle please


  15. 12 hours ago, crwarren11 said:

    Trans is out. Screw is found in the engine webbing, one bump away from hopping into the TC / flywheel.
    b625f1973d34f3201744b3076b4f58d0.jpg

    Question...the torque converter did come out. I thought my Allen was in deep enough but apparently not. All seems good but I know JFP has posted elsewhere about the risks of the TC coming out. Anything I should consider before reinstalling?

    Thanks!

     

    Just make sure the converter us fully seated into the gearbox before reinstalling it.  If it is all the way in, it should spin freely with the gear box in place; if it binds, it is not all the way in.


  16. 12 hours ago, ½cwt said:

    Last weekend I changed my centre console insert to the storage type to remove the ash tray.  In doing so I disconnected and reconnecte the electric window switches to move the switched to the new insert.  Since then my alarm has been going off at anything from a few minutes to hours later.  I have taken the whole centre console out and checked any visible wiring plus the microswitch on the locking storage compartment/arm rest which is OK.

    The battery is new and there are no other apparent new electrical faults and the only known fault is that none for the interior light and sun visor lights to the top of the front screen work (broken wire or bad earth I'm thinking) which was a fault when I bought it last September.

     

    Any ideas folks?

    By the way the UK alarm system had an additional (loud) siren, not sure in which other countries this is OE.

     

    If you scan the car with a Porsche specific tool, it can tell you what triggered the last ten alarm trips.


  17. 4 hours ago, thormann said:

    Hi, I have replaced the right radiator of my 996 4S due to an accident. 

     

    After disconnecting the coolant hoses from the broken radiator, I collected about 1 gallon of coolant.

     

    Now I have installed the the new radiator, filled the coolant reservoir to max, opened the bleeding valve and started the engine. After a while the left radiator is getting warm, so the regulator valve seems to be open. However, the new (right) radiator remains cool. I can feel that the upper hose connected to the radiator is warm, but not the radiator itself and the lower hose. The coolant is still at max level...

     

    Any idea what I am doing wrong?

     

    Thanks a lot,

     

    Thormann

     

     

     

    It is air bound, you should have pulled a vacuum on the system to get the air out and then (still under vacuum) refilled the system.


  18. 12 hours ago, gnmor@yahoo.com said:

    just removed my water tank 2002 986 boxster and could not find leak so filled tank, plugged line where coolant line goes to motor from tank and when blowing air with mouth into water filled tank....could see bubbles coming out of release valve seat, so removed eight screws around release valve and  replaced o ring (about 2 inches round), hope it works???  filled tank with water again and blew air into it by mouth and voila!!!! no bubbles....I hope it works , tomorrow im installing it back in the car....

     

    Welcome to RennTech:welcomeani:

     

    Just be aware that your system operates at 18 PISG at 210F, conditions that blowing into it can never replicate.


  19. 1 hour ago, t6pilot said:

    Like JFP said throughly clean engine, including the topside, I say that because liquid flows downhill and could be coming from filter cap or filler cap
    Once you get the engine spotless and dry, spray some ARRID XXX DRY deodorant on suspect areas (sounds crazy but we use it on radial aircraft Engines to trace leaks, it works) then run the engine till it’s warm, hopefully it’s nothing more than a loose cap/fitting

     

    Long before I would be spraying deodorant all over an engine, I would add Uview UV oil dye to the oil and trace it with a black light; works like a charm but does not smell as nice.....

    • Like 1

  20. 44 minutes ago, dammad said:

    I noticed the last three days that my 997.2 C4S drips a good amount of oil on the drive overnight. I had a look at it today (and parked it in a different spot to gauge the amount of oil). I thought it might be a slightly loose drain plug or something, but appears to be coming from the rear of the engine somewhere. 😯Does anyone have any ideas? I can't see where it's coming from. the major drips seem to come from the bolt at the center of the picture.

     

    Expensive or really really expensive to fix?

     

    IMG_3723.thumb.JPG.d69420dd479a0f08cee3496ec3e54e70.JPG

     

    Without a good look, it is almost impossible to say where it is coming from.  A good start would be to clean off the engine and then monitor it for leaks...…..


  21. 2 minutes ago, Andre B. said:

    I have checked Sunset, unfortunately the electric connector part doesn't show as component of the brake system, the inner electric system, or the ABS system. It has to be a maintenance part as it is exposed to driving vibration, dust, and humidity and connects to two vital systems to the tires, the brake sensors and the abs speed sensor.

     

    Then give them a call, it may be part of the wiring harness that only comes with that section of the harness.

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