JFP in PA

Misread your original post, there should be nothing that obstructs the dipstick, but you should also know that Porsche released updated dipsticks for the early cars to get people to correctly lower the oil level in the sump a slight amount to prevent excessive oil level from killing the AOS.  I would also STRONGLY recommend getting the real factory part from a dealer, Pelican is well known for pushing ill-fitting aftermarket parts as "OEM".

These are the updated factory parts:

Similarly, Porsche also reduced the oil fill level on Boxster models. We do not have engine and vehicle vin numbers identifying when this change occurred during Boxster production, however vehicles fitted with the 996-107-014-01 and 996-107-014-02 revision dipsticks should set the oil level half way between the min and max level marks. Vehicles with the updated 996-107-014-03 dipstick should have their oil levels set to the maximum level.

On the Boxster dipsticks, only the last five digits of the part number are indicated on the part (last two being the revision number). The Boxster -03 revision is shown with two grooves for o-rings, but only one is used, where the -01 and -02 revisions only have a single o-ring groove.

And yes, the vacuum level loss due to the dipstick not being seated and those codes could be related. 

And just as a by-the-by, I know Leonardtown very well, love Salsa's restaurant, and the Calvert Marine Museum on Solomons Island..................

Word of advice: Multiple aftermarket parts sellers, like Pelican who is one of the worst in this respect, sell what they call "OEM" manufacturer parts like the coolant tanks and AOS units, which is at the best, very misleading.  The manufacturer in question may be an OEM supplier to Porsche, BUT NOT FOR THE PARTICULAR PART IN QUESTION.  In the case of your tank, Mahle is an OEM supplier to Porsche for engine parts like pistons; but they do not supply the coolant tank.  This, unfortunately, is quite common in the trade, so you need to know what you are getting before you spend your hard earned $.  In my shop, we do not do business with any vendors that behave this deceptively. 

And I just checked the outfit you bought yours from, it is NOT a factory unit, it is aftermarket. Get the real thing and be done with it.....................

OK, the vacuum gauge will bounce as air pockets get pulled out; but if the bounce continues to happen, something is opening and letting air in, which should not happen.....

And if the bleeder/tank assembly is not a factory Porsche part, get rid of it and get a real one.  We have NEVER had any luck with aftermarket tanks.

You moat likely have an air pocket in the system which is causing the issue; this is not good and you need to get it out.  The normal procedure to refill this cooling system is to do it under vacuum using a special tool like the Uview Airlift system which evacuates the system and then pulls the fresh coolant mix in under vacuum, eliminating any chance of air being retained.  This tool can also be used to pull entrapped air out of the system the same way.

That is a weird set of faults:

C141 is for no power to te PCM

C140 is for the the dash communications display

8023 is full with the AC air recirculating flap motor

C131  is for a gateway controller fault

I almost looks like the dash internal communications are suffering electrical faults, possibly due to a problem with the system gateway contoller.  I may be time for a PIWIS scan, which would give more definitive information.

I'm amazed that a battery that old is still good, but the results are the results.  At this juncture, I would suggest putting the battery back in the car and then using the Durametric, clear all the codes.  Then take the car out for a run and see what, if any, codes come back.  Sometimes these cars throw a bunch of codes for unknown reasons after sitting for a while, but if the codes are real, they will return and we can go from there.

You need to post that in the "lost radio code" forum section, it won't be answered here.

20 minutes ago, jchapura said:

Would you agree that the 2005 997.1 should not need a radio security code?

 

Depends upon what model radio is in the car, Loren can probably answer that better as he handles radio codes, but I don't think a 997 does..........................

Modern digital load testers typically simply readout "good battery", "questionable battery" or "bad battery"; load test voltage readouts are a bit "old hat".  They will also give you % data on "state of health", "state of charge", remaing CCA, and internal resistance values; on an old-style load tester, I would question the viability of any battery that drops below 10.5 volts during the test.

4 minutes ago, jchapura said:

I don't have a specific battery load testing tool. Nor a recording multi-meter to capture the voltage while cranking the starter.

 

Is there any risk to taking the battery out of the car and taking the battery to an auto parts store to use their load tester? For example, will any computers/settings be (semi-permanently or permanently) lost that would then need a PIWIS to get going again?

 

Or, should I buy a battery load testing tool? I see they range from $40 (no-name on Amazon) to $130 (Foxwell BT705)?

 

Or, should I just buy a new battery?

 

Just about any auto parts store can test the battery for you for free.

If you remove it from the car, the car can relearn everything it needs to by itself, with the exception of the radio security code on cars that need one.

Load test the battery; a nine-year-old battery is always suspect..........

7 minutes ago, BoBo Howard said:

Gotcha.  Is that the main input shaft ? 

No, that is one of the gear selector shafts.

Welcome to RennTech 

Pretty sure that is a pressed in bronze bushing; if it is, the only way to repair it is to pull the gearbox and replace the entire tail housing as the bushing is pressed in from the inside.

15 hours ago, JE 17 said:

Checked battery ground at the terminal, and just for good measure, gave it a Deoxit dose. I haven't driven it a lot since, so I don't know if that was helpful. The terminal was not loose, though.

I will try to find the other end when I am able to put it in the air on my hoist.

Try running voltage drop test across both primary battery cables, Porsche has had problems with these cables developing internal corrosion that cannot be seen but causes all sorts of issues.

Some of the 986 models were plagued by incredibly long runs to rest the I/M Readiness triggers in the DME; hundreds of miles after all faults were correctly repaired were not uncommon.

19 minutes ago, ivass said:

Hi Guys,

 

I had a MAF failure which triggered a CEL on my 2013 C2S, and while fixing this, I noticed that I have two other errors. One was for the micro switch on the passenger's door, and one was for the siren of the alarm (my siren never worked, so I knew about the issue). I replaced the door handle with the micro switch and the siren. Now, I few seconds after I lock the car, the alarm goes off. Can anyone think of what might be triggering it? I am guessing this is whey the original siren had burned out.

 

Hope one of you can point me in the right direction.

 

Thank you,

 

Ivo

Easiest way to find out exactly what is triggering the alarm is to scan the system with a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS, Durametric); the alarm system stores that last ten alarm trigger faults in its memory.

Welcome to RennTech 

P 0706 indicates the multifunction switch is disconnected or shorted to ground.  I'd start by making sure the switch connector is properly seated and check the harness for any breaks or other damage.  It could be the switch itself, but check that it is properly connected first, and make sure the shifter cable doesn't need adjustment.

14 hours ago, Shrek said:

Thanks.  Will the Lisle 45750 system work?

That I do not know; the difference between the set we use and the 45750 is ours has all the adaptors while the 45750 only comes with six.  You might want to check with Lise to see if the smaller set has the correct adaptor, or if you can purchase it separately (I know they do sell them singularly). 

I like the Lisle system, Amazon sell them, but you may also be able borrow one from an auto parts store:

Up front, you need to know this is a discontinued (Consumer Reports; https://www.consumerreports.org/products/ultra-high-performance-all-season-tire/bridgestone-potenza-re980as-397609/overview/) and superseded tire model, which means if down the road you needed to replace one or more, you may not be able to find them in your car's sizes.  They were also known for being very noisy in customer reviews, which is probably why they were replaced.

The second, or trigger wire, runs from pin #1 on the valve to terminal pin #7 at the DME.

The trigger wire runs from the valve to the DME, the wire from the relay simply supplies power.

Have you tested the fuel pressure and delivery rates?  Problems in that area will make the car run like crap and not throw codes.................

You haven't mentioned two items: removing and testing the valve itself and testing the triggering wire back to the DME pin for continuity.