JFP in PA

JFP in PA

Good point on the impeller.

Most of our clientele come in demanding metal impellers because they don't want the impeller failing. The flip side is the bearing failure being more damaging.

Im an advocate of selling OEM as much as possible but you can only lead a horse to water.

Believe me; they will feel a whole lot different when the metal impeller starts boring a hole in the engine cases, filling the cooling system with fine metal filings that are nearly impossible to get out of the system. Even if you could clean up the mess, and the cases aren’t totally destroyed, the new water pump will not be able to move the coolant effectively due to the damage (the gap behind the impeller is now too large), and the car will want to run hotter than it already does.

It is not about OEM vs. aftermarket, but it is about not killing things unnecessarily…….

http://www.amazon.com/Excelvan-Bluetooth-Interface-Scanner-Adapter/dp/B007P14NPU/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1362946000&sr=1-5&keywords=elm327+bluetooth

Total w/app $15.00, not bad...

Im looking for software like http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS.html which I used to tweak my Audi S4.

Then take a look a the Durametric software for Porsche, it won't run off a phone, but it is by far the best sofware available for a Porsche short of the PIWIS system.

Some of the 996's suffered from out of round openings in the case where the RMS sits (Porsche actually developed a tool to check the cases to see if the opening is round or not), which will continue to leak oil after replacing the RMS. Unfortunately, when you find a car with this problem, the out of round condition cannot be fixed, the engine has to be replaced. That said, one of the biggest problems with the new PTFE RMS seal is that people do not know how to correctly install them; they are very susceptible to leaks from something as small as a finger print getting on them, and they should not be installed with any type of sealer (the sealer actually works against the new seal and causes it to leak).

There was a very detailed article on the new seal, installation problems and failure causes in "Excellence" magazine a year or two back. It also showed how to test the case opening and examples of cases that will never seal.

Black smoke is ususally a sign of an over rich mixture, but it is usually not a fatal problem and would also usually throw codes as well.

You should not need any "prodding", it should slide right out. How are you supporting the engine while removing the gearbox?

The bottle may have hit a wiring connector under the seat and either disconnected it or left it loose.

Probably one of the cheapest sources is Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR.

Thanks JFP

Sending the part back on Monday and getting the one with the composite impeller. Better safe than sorry.

How about the coolants I mentioned above?

We do not use anything except the OEM Porsche coolant; it has proven to have a very long life (we have seen it go 8 years without issue) and do an excellent job. It is also not all that expensive, and readily available. It is also well known to have compatibility issues with some aftermarket products, which can lead to a gelatinous mess. Most shops are aware of this and stay with what is known to work, and like us will only add distilled water to any car that they do not know for a fact has the OEM coolant in it.

Hi there

Just bought 2002 Boxster S with missing radio code. Will be very grateful if you could advise please. Details are:

- Becker Type 4467

- Serial No. 25007235

many thanks in advance

Try 4638

These fuel pumps do not like to be run dry as the fuel also cools the pump itself. As yours is a 2000 model, I would also run a fuel pressure test as running the pump dry tends to pick up any accumulated crud from the bottom of the tank and jam up the fuel filter (yours has an external filter under the car). You may just need a new filter. As Loren has already noted, you may also have a dead CPS, which would also turn off the fuel pump.

Not really, unless the engine blew, but there are a myriad of other things that could do it....................

It is an aftermarket pump so it has the metal impeller, how bad could that be?

Very. Porsche uses a composite impeller rather than a metal one for a very simple reason: When the water pump shaft bearing wears and begins to wobble (and they all do), the composite impeller will break up but not do any damage; a metal one on the other hand will do severe damage to the engine case in the rear of the water pump housing.

There is also nothing wrong with Porsche's OEM coolant; mixed with distilled water, it will last for many, many years

Thanks JFP, death and Loren.I searched and found all the torque specs here except for the bolts that hold the transaxle to the motor.Can anyone help?Also, if I R&R the AOS from the trani side, I do not touch the P/S reservoir, right?

The M12 bolts are 63 ft. lb; the hex head M10 bolt is 33 ft. lb.; and the M10 multi tooth bolt is also 33 ft. lb.

If you do the AOS while the gearbox it out, it is out in the open.

Normally, fuel level calibration is supposed to only needed if the tank and/or sending unit is replaced, or the instrument cluster had been changed. That said, we have encountered instances where prolonged battery disconnection has also led to this type of problem.

While time consuming, the procedure is not overly complicated. The tank sender has to be removed, and the tank completely drained of fuel, being careful to get all the fuel in the 4WD cars with saddle style tanks. Once drained, reinstall the sender, return 28 liters (7.3 gallons US) of fuel to the tank, and run the “tank calibration” function in the instrument cluster section of the Porsche computer system and you are done.

1. Do not touch the case bolts above and below the RMS unless you intend to split the cases for some reason.

2. You will only get about 90% of the coolant out of the car.

3. Do not use any other gear oil but the OEM stuff, we are constantly draining transmissions of "lube experiments" gone bad. Simply ain't worth it. The Porsche product is a full synthetic designed for Porsche, which has no true aftermarket equivalent.

4. Not really, you just line them up

5. Nearly all, if not all of these torque specs can be found by conducting a quick search. In most cases, they are the same as 996 values, but do not use the values for the Metzger design engined cars you mentioned (GT, Turbo), those are different as the engine is completely different.

Super thanks. Guessing I can only clean the ends of the hoses and not much else. I'm also thinking about taking the MAF off and spraying it with the Crc maf cleaner. Any other ideas?

Cleaning your MAF won’t do much as the oil is behind the throttle body, inside the intake runners themselves. The MAF is upstream of where the AOS connects to the intake system. When one of these AOS failures gets out of hand, it can actually flood the intake with liquid oil, causing terminal hydraulic lock of the motor.

Do a search, this has been covered many times on multiple sites.

Yes thank you. Doing this tonight. How long should it take for the massive amounts of smoke to stop when you first start up after replacing?

Depends upon how much oil built up in the intake runners, and how effective you were in cleaning it out before starting the car.

Along with smoking, the oil will not be doing your O2 sensors or cats any favors.........

Thanks. The car was/is new and I must be blind not to notice the panel in that small space? Middle-age and progressive bifocals I guess. Anyway, I'll search more agressively in an hour or so. Ironically, they didn't know where it was/is, told me is was optional equipment, and then casually offered to sell me one?

My first "new" Porsche and the dealership in-experience is not different than my Pontiac GTO in-experience. I had an 07 Cayman and the GM dealership didn't know their car was Australian?

Go here: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=144330&d=1298219279 it will show you where it hides (helps to rotate the PDF file clockwise after opening)..................

You can also find the same info on page 198 of the GT3 owner's manual PDF in the "Documents" tab at the top of this page.

They are stiffing you on a very expensive part, the cars do come with the socket (the missing owner's manual would show you where it is stored in the front trunk), but little else:

Another handy device is this aftermarket wheel aligment tool to help you get the wheel back on the car:

JFP, you have an answer for everything!

No, I'm just thick skulled and don't like to give up easily. I've always held that there has to be another way to do almost anything......................" Subitum, et superatus"

A thought; state emissions standards vary widely, but many urban areas still require special emissions testing for certain vehicles, like class three and above trucks. Our 2012 shop truck, with full cats and four O2 sensors, has to pass what is called a "two speed idle test", which is run on a dyno at two different low RPM runs with a sniffer in the tail pipe; it cannot pass on just the I/M Readiness test off the OBD II port. To get it certified, we do the safety stuff (brakes, tries, etc.) and then it goes to a nearby shop for the run on the rollers to get the last sticker.

You may want to check your state emissions requirements (most have detailed on line resources) and see if something similar is required in your area. Because "a sniffer is just a sniffer", if they do require special testing on heavier trucks, you have just found your testing source.............

Try looking for a dyno shop; they sometimes use them while setting a car up on the rollers. Another possible is a shop that works on the late 60’s “muscle cars”, the only way to tune them is with a sniffer as they did not have O2 sensors.

Most of the world has moved to dependency on EPA mandated “advanced emissions testing”, which is totally OBD II.

I don't mean to belabor this thread but I got the CEL again last night so if the Techron and a long hard drive doesn't fix the problem later this week I want to move forward and get this fixed.

I just talked to the local dealer and obviously they agree that the cats could be suspect... he also recommended Techron (and a similar one made my Lucas). He said before replacing the cats they would first look for a potential vacuum leak. Any thoughts on this? I'm basically wanting to narrow this down to be absolutely sure it's the cats before I spend $3,200+ in parts on the cats (in addition to the $400 in oxygen sensors). I would hate to drop $3,600 and then find that it is something else.

I completely appreciate your concerns.

Vacuum leaks of any significance typically cause other problems, and quite often throw unique codes on their own; you have not mentioned seeing any of those, so I would not hold much hope it is a vacuum leak.

Go back to my suggestions concerning getting the car tested using an emissions sniffer; if one or both of the cats are toast, the car would have very high emissions levels, and that could not result from any other source.

Hello I have a becker model number 6624 serial # 15005256 cr 220 and need radio code can someone please help me?

Try 9870

Internally, the main cat is a high surface area honey comb structure (the cat’s efficiency is dependent upon the available surface to react with the gas stream):

Cats cease to function properly when the surface of the honeycomb becomes coated with crud that prevents the gas stream from coming in contact with the honeycomb, but at the same time does not totally block exhaust flow through the honeycomb passages. When the honeycomb becomes even partially blocked, then the performance of the car suffers due to increased back pressure not allowing the cylinders to fully exhaust the spent gases. If mechanically blocked enough, the car won’t even start.

Second owner and i disconnected the battery can you help me.Becker 1Cdr 220Ser# x5028660Type 446248/98Thanks

Try 9858