JFP in PA

I wouldn't switch sides. I've gone through 5 sets of catalytic converters (140k miles) and the current set is bad.

"5 sets of cats"? I don't think we have replaced that many cats in total on all the cars we service combined over the years.......... What in the Hell are you doing (just out of curiosity)?

All of Porsche's front radiators are vulnerable due to the mounting methods and the lowness of the nose of these cars. Just running the nose gently up on a grass hump or a parking curb is enough to break them. I know of no functional way to prevent this other than to protect the nose of the car from any impacts.

I’d also forget about trying to repair the damaged radiator; we have seen a lot of attempts at this, but very few successes. Considering how much fun it is to get them out, it is better to simply lick your wounds and replace it.

Your cheapest source for a new unit is probably going to be board sponsor Sunset Porsche, unless you can find someone that has one and does not need it.

As for refilling the system, best method is the Uview vacuum filling system; it is the exact same system the dealer’s use, only about 1/5 the price Porsche would charge for it. With this tool, it is a 5 min. process to refill the system without any issues.

Glad it worked out; most people do not realize the O2 lines on the display are supposed to move back and forth.

Fuel pressure and delivery is done by connecting a pressure gauge with a side flow port to the test port on the fuel rail (looks a lot like a brass capped tire valve). If the fuel pump is bad, the pressure will not be consistent, or in the correct range. Entire process takes about 15 min. to do.

Be sure test the pump pressure and delivery as well, sometimes these pumps start locking up when they age, shutting off the fuel supply intermittently.

pH should be in the 9.5-10.0 range; coolant should be changed when it falls below 9.0; be cautious about how accurate test strips are, they change with age.

Check your fuel pump for pressure and delivery rates, also look at the fuel pump relay.

Thanks Mr PA. that should help me. DO I have to buy a maintainer that fits the ROW charging plug in my car? I noticed as other have noticed that a US plug sure does not fit well.

Contact Jeff at Sunset Porsche, there is a $20 retrofit kit to change the lighter over to US specs in about 10 min.; then anything you want to plug in (phone charger, GPS, etc.) will fit. If you have not purchased a maintainer yet, seriously consider the Ctek line (buy it online from a place like Amazon rather than from Porsche). Ctek make one of the best systems out there, much better than $20 Walmart stuff or Battery Tenders. Well worth the money....

"Mr. Pa"..................? Yikes, I must be showing my age! :eek:

Cam timing looks fine; if you do not have any vacuum at the oil cap, start by looking at the line that supplies vacuum to the AOS and also check the dipstick and oil filler tubes (they are often disturbed when doing the IMS): you sound like you have a vacuum leak.

The car is designed to use the cigarette lighter for the maintainer; there is even a notch in the bottom edge of the driver’s door to allow the cord to come out with the car locked up and the alarm on.

If the cats are that bad, you should be able to see it in a scan of the engine; a lot of 996 so-called "cat rattles" have turned out to actually be coming from other sources like heat shielding. I would also move cautiously on what the manufacturer claims for their product’s CA legality.

The code is definitely for bank 4-6 and ahead of the three way cat:

First, a couple of questions: Why do you believe you need to replace the cats? In all the years of working on this marquee, cat replacement has to be one of the least often occurring repairs. Second, will the aftermarket cats pass your state’s rather draconian inspection requirements? Last time I checked, a visual inspection for any non factory emissions gear is part of the process, so before spending any money, I’d be sure you are not going to be doing this twice to get inspected…………

Anytime.............

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I for one am not a big fan of using the Allen screw method to secure the cams while changing the IMS. Besides not really positively securing the cam drives, this method can also move the gear on the rear of the shaft (which is a press fit from the factory), causing the chains to be off axis and cause no end of issues that can only be fixed by taking the engine apart. While some have success with the Allen screw method, some have also had major problems. We pull the green cam plugs and lock the cams down with fixtures while doing one of these upgrades, which eliminates any chance of problems.

That said, you should have the engine scanned by the OEM PIWIS, a PST II, or the Durametric software to determine the current camshaft deviation values before moving further. These engines’ are supposed to be +/- 6 degrees; if yours does not fall into that range, the cam timing is out. Normally, we scan all engines inbound for IMS updates both before and after installation to verify everything is as it should be.

P0154 is the code for signal interruption on the indicated O2 sensor. While it could be a bad sensor, more often it is a wiring issue. You can electrically test the sensor to eliminate it as a candidate before you start tracing the wiring harness looking for damage or a loose connection.

Here ya go.....................

http://www.hsy.com.a...ensor_gears.pdf

Pelican Parts (amongst others) sells them...........

Believe it or not, ATE, the brake fluid people, make a $15 tool to determine which side had the shutter wheel in it…….works every time.

I would also check the fuel pressure and the battery/charging system (alternator voltage, load test the battery) as they can also stop the car in its tracks.

You can pinch the hoses off while replacing it, but if the coolant is 5 or more years old, it would be a good time to change it.

Little bit off topic, but has anyone else had issues with life of their Optima or other lightweight battery (e.g. Braille). I have the 11 lb Braile, and after about 2 years, it's not holding a charge. I've heard anecdotal evidence that the lightweight batteries can cause damage to the alternator? I'm curious if anyone has any experience or opinions about either life, or possible issues with the alternator. Thanks.

The Optima is a full output and normally BCI rated CCA spiral wound AGM design, highly vibration and temperature resistant, so it actually lives quite long in these cars (7-8 years is not unusual). Optima's were designed to exceed the rigors of automotive type applications.

Braile on the other hand is a very lightweight “racing” AGM design, with much lower CCA ratings when tested according to the industry standard BCI procedures. It keeps its weight down by leaving out all the heavy stuff that allows normal SLI (starting, lighting, and ignition) to live in the tough environment of the automotive world. End result is they weigh less, have shorter lives, and often lead to current related problems (dim lights, poor cranking in cool/cold, short lived alternators, electronics issues, etc.).

For a race application, they would be fine; they are not designed for the street (regardless of the marketing hype).

OK, here's your problem: The base car and S car use two different diameter hard cooling pipes that lead to the forward radiators. At one time, Porsche's "kit" for upgrading the base car to carry the center radiator had special molded hoses that corrected for this anomaly. Unfortunately, those hoses have totally disappeared and now all you can get are the standard "S" hoses which are too big. This has been causing folks to start soldering fittings together to try and make a leak tight fit, or spending a lot of time and money to replace the hard pipes.

Fortunately, somebody had come up with a neat solution that is reasonably priced. A Porsche shop called Precision Chassis Works had machined up adaptors that either you can have TIG welded to your pipes, or you can send them your pipes and they will redo them, or they will sell you hard pipes with the adaptors already welded in. All for about $100 (with the exchange for your pipes). http://www.precision...dification.html Ultra clean installed, never leak.

I think 2001 was the last year for spark plug tubes. I don't think any of the 3.6 engines had them.

2002 was the "official" last year. As with most things Porsche, some had them in 2002, some did not............

P0455 is the "large vacuum leak" code for the EVAP system; usual suspect is the gas cap..................

Yes, unless he has a replacement engine. 2002 was the last year for the tubes, 2003's did not removable tubes.