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JFP in PA

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Posts posted by JFP in PA

  1. 8 minutes ago, Speedobird said:

    Thank you for your input. The Adblue was getting low a few days prior to this warning like last 100miles. This may have something to do with it but as it has been filled up, I’m not sure if there is any fix.

     

    I do not believe that the Durametric software supports this function, but you can check with them directly on that.  You may need to have a dealer do a code clear with the PIWIS.

  2. 41 minutes ago, Speedobird said:

    I have a 2015 Cayenne Diesel.
    Engine check light came on the other day. Durametric shows three fault codes:
    23595/5C2B (warning indicator off …)
    F20F400 Redictant Consumption too low factor flat code 9954…
    9953/26E1 warning indicator off …
    Does anyone know what these are? Also I can’t seen to erase any of them by Durametric

     

    Reductant Consumption is the Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) that is used to assist in converting leftover exhaust particles to harmless gases. Are you sure your DEF tank isn't empty?

  3. 2 hours ago, Philip54 said:

    I usually buy the oil filters from Amazon.com.  This time they sent me a product that is slightly different from what they have sent to me in the past.

     

    The filter is made by Mahle as the filters previously purchased.  The box is definitely shorter, I could not tell if the filter is also shorter.  The part numbers on the box are: OX 128/1 D and 996-107-225-53/67.  On this forum I have read that the correct oil filter part numbers for my car are  996-107-225-52  and 996-107-225-53.    I am not sure if the part number number ending in 53/67 is also ok for my car.

     

    Could somebody let me know?

     

    Thanks

     

     

    The correct filter dimensions are 113 MM height, 65 MM outside diameter, 24 MM inside diameter.  If the filter they sent you does not match these, do not use it.

  4. Some of the early cars had a real problem getting the IM Readiness test "not ready" status to change without resorting to the PIWIS, even after all the necessary repairs have been completed. I have personally seen cars go more that 200 miles of daily drive cycles before the system switched to "ready", but I have never seen or heard for one going 2,400 miles.  I would have to agree with Loren on this one; something is still not right.

     

    If the O2 sensor ahead of the cats goes to a straight line zero, or near zero voltage while the SAI pump is running, the system is functional.

     

    Before repair

    spacer.png

     

    After repair

    spacer.png

    • Upvote 1
  5. Jake's company is Flat Six Innovations, and has done all of the development work for M96/97 component's for LN Engineering , which is owned by Charles Navarro.  Jake does complete engine rebuilds, from mild to wild, and only sells educational materials such as the DVD mentioned, as well as the only existing complete engine torque spec manuals in print, but Flat Six no longer sells any hardware, only complete engines.  LN manufactures and sells all the hardware (Nickies cylinder liners, IMS retrofits, piston sets, etc.), and also sells Jakes torque manuals which are excellent reference sources.  LN will also provide machine shop services such as installing all new Nickies cylinder liners.

    • Like 1
  6. The 1997 to 1999 Boxsters had two microswitches. One of those two microswitches was the black lever microswitch, which is mounted on top of a bracket that surrounds the electric motor. The bracket is also covered by a black plastic cover with a slot on top of it where the black lever pops up. The electric drive motor for the convertible top is located directly in front of the third brake light, on the rear wall of the convertible top well.  This switch stops the electric motor when the top is down. The second switch is on the drivers side B pillar and is the one that turns the dash light off.  It is a simple on/off switch that can be tested with a multimeter.

  7. 1 hour ago, Arnold Husser said:

    I need some help and am willing to pay for it. Previously I sent my ECU Imoblizer to a California electronics company which was listed on Ebay with a spare for a replacement.  They repaired it but it did not have the separate cable fitting so I sent it back and they sent me a different unit with cable. The car still did not start. So I sent the replacement ECU Imoblizer along with the engine DME with keys to get them to match them up, i.e. talk to each other.  They came back and I installed them. The car still will not start. The Durametric Code says wrong key or transponder pill.  The key fits the door lock, unlock and locks it, sounds the horn, etc.  They key rotates in the ignition just fine but does not start the car. I have replaced the ignition switch lock system but kept the original cylinder with the key. I have replaced the number 53 relay fuses right down to a new starter.  I checked all the fuses and they are okay. I do not know what else the hect to do.  The local Porsche dealership can’t give me a straight answer about how much their analyzer costs will be although Durametric says that their codes will be the same as mine. Can anyone assist me???

    Arnold Husser
    kojac@triad.rr.com
     

     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

     

    From the sounds of it, the company in CA sent you a different unit which does not recognize your keys.  You need to either get your original unit back from them, or you are about to spend a lot of money for keys, immobilizer, and programing at your local Porsche dealer.  These units cannot simply be swapped, they have to be programmed to match the car and keys.

  8. 31 minutes ago, vza said:

    Hi All, 99 Boxster,, I put my hardtop on(1st time) and everything works but the dash Convertible warning light stays lit. I removed the switch and found a bad solder joint so I re-soldered all the joints(8 joints). Same result, all the functions work ie. window drop, I hear the motor run if I press the top down button. Everything was fine with the soft top. Is it just a latch adjustment for the hardtop? I did not plug in the rear defog plug but I don't think that makes a diff. Thanks V 

     

    Do you have the red clip installed where the convertible top latch normally goes:  

     

    spacer.png

     

     

    spacer.png

     

    • Upvote 1
  9. 9 minutes ago, Kevin Correnti said:

    Main Issue - I inherited an 08 Boxster with a salvage title. The car does not rev past 3,000 RPM’s on any gear. I took it to Porsche dealership, they ran diagnostic and they gave me $5,500 estimate saying someone put in a DME from a Carrera 997 and thus they need to replace it and program it AND THEN run diagnostics again and see what else is wrong with car.

    Other Details: Pictures of the collision from two years ago show damage to side of car...the body work was redone poorly. Side airbag not replaced, driver seatbelt not replaced. Currently the blinkers and windshield wipers don’t work. I don’t have an ‘official’ key or whatever, I insert the key and the dashboard lights up with all error codes etc and then after about 5 seconds the car turns on and runs fine except for not going past 3,000 rpm.  

    Question: I am wondering how to replace/fix the DME cheaply or elsewhere. Can I buy a DME specific to my make and model and just replace that or do I need to replace whole set of unique VIN DME, Immobilizer, ignition, door handle lock etc? A set like this runs for about $700. I have an I dependent Porsche shop that will work with me to replace/Install. I am looking for any feedback I can get. 

     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    The DME MUST be the correct one for the car, and the car’s keys, immobilizer, and DME must all be coded to work together. That will require access to the PIWIS system to complete, after which you will need to address all of the car’s system control modules to get everything successfully talking to each other.

  10. 21 minutes ago, laalves said:

    Family in new car, dead winter, night, snow storm. Car goes off-road and gets stuck in snow in the middle of nowhere. Car is idling, heater at max, radio playing, headlights on, window defrosters on. Alternator not putting out enough current and needs to draw current from the battery to keep everything running, "as designed". After a couple of hours, battery dies and the engine follows suit. Family dies. Manufacturer says: "Tough luck, car was working as designed".

     

    Doesn't happen in a car working to spec.

     

    Doesn't happen because the car the family is in had a 700-800CCA or so battery with loads of current reserve.  But with a lightweight battery with limited current reserves (read amperage), it would definitely be a possibility given enough time. 

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