JFP in PA

Only problem here is that you have no data on the quality,performance, or longevity for this kit, the LN unit has over 4,000 units installed in the field. I'm sure Casper knows their bearings, but I would be remiss if I did not note that LN and Jake Raby tested the Hell out of the LN unit before they made it available; I have seen no data on what level of testing this other supplier has done. Sometimes you do get what you pay for.....................

You could, but then you would have to thoroughly clean out the bleeder before you could use it with hydraulic fluids (brake fluid) again. Hydraulic fluid and ATF/gear oil should never be mixed as it will lead to all sorts of problems. Their "fill" unit also has a schrader valve on it which the brake unit does not, which allows you to pressure up the fill unit with the shop's compressed air line, making it even easier to use. It is up to you, but I prefer to have one for bleeding brakes and clutches, another for filling transmissions and differentials. If you go in the direction of using one for both, I’d suggest looking into Motive’s quick disconnecting fittings, which allow you to switch adaptors and hoses in seconds (we have six or seven different adaptors for brakes alone). The quick disconnect are listed in their “spares” section, are cheap and very well made. We have them on all our Motive equipment.

Yes, it can pump any reasonable viscosity fluid, like ATF, and it comes with the shutoff valve, tygon tubing lines, and the curved end piece to fit into the bottom of the trans. If you read the other poster's write up, you will see basically the same stuff that he fabricated to do the job. You can locate and assemble all the bits your self, or buy one ready to go.

There is a Casper Labs that do aircraft stuff, do not know if they are the same outfit.

If you are un-inclined to make your own fill tool, Motive Products (maker of the pressure bleeding system everyone uses for the brakes and clutch hydraulic systems on these cars) makes an excellent "off the shelf" tool for doing exactly what you are interested in: http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/POWER-FILL-PRO-1-gallon_p_79.html

JFP in PA,

I replaced the slave cylinder without any issues, but, now I am having a heck of a time trying to bleed the air out of the system eventhough I followed the instructions from DIY Brake & Clutch fluid change and bleeding instructions to the tee.

I even tried using a hand operated vaccum pump which seems to work since I can see the air bubbles coming out, but, I am having issues holding a vaccum on the system; probably leaking by the seals on the container so I am thinking of buying a new pump.

Oh yes, I was told that if I use a vaccum pump I don't have to hold down on the clutch pedal but need to ensure there is plenty of fluid in the brake mastercylinder, is this correct?

Please advise, and thanks for any inputs you may have.

19Fatboy53

I have never been a fan of vacuum bleeding tools for a variety of reasons; get a pressure unit such as the one Motive Products makes.

Holding down the clutch is only applicable to manually bleeding the system. With the pedal down, pressure is held against the system and forces out a small amount of fluid/air with each compression. Holding the bleed valve open too long or allowing the pedal to retreat will draw air into the system. If using a pressure bleeder you simply use the tool to maintain the pressure. Pressure bleeding is better as it provides a better flush of the system in short order. And you will need to keep an eye on the reservoir to ensure you don't suck huge amounts of air into the system and have to start over.

That is not completely correct; you still need to hold the pedal to the floor while using a pressure or vacuum bleeder. When you are finished, the pedal will stay down, and needs to be manually pulled up, after which it will function normally......

The "Northwest Passage" in the heads is a critical component in the X51 package, the pan a baffle alone really don't add much other than a small increase in total oil capacity. I'd also suggest doing some searching, another shop (EBS) recently released a very nice looking stainless steel baffle assembly that has gotten some good press.

When checking the heads, be sure to closely look at the small diameter freeze plugs under the cam covers, they can be a major source of headaches to the point that some shops are machining and threading them to accept screw in replacements.

I bled my brakes today but could not get the cap off the slave cylinder. I pulledon it, turned it but it did not come off. Does anyone know how to get the cap off the bleed valve on the slave cylinder?

It just pops off; made out of rubber, it just snaps over the bleed valve.

If your car is still the 01 Boxster in your signature, it is an e-gas car, so the pedal is bolted to the floor and attached to a small electronic unit that sends a signal to the DME. Perhaps it is binding or the module has an issue?

Hmmm... Labor $4375 -- so at $150/hour that would be 29.2 hours?

I would look for another Porsche shop.

+1............

There are three purge valves; the cannister purge valve, the air purge, and the operating purge valve. All of these should be under the emissions components.

I have no idea, I do not use that version of the software, and I have no issues resetting the service reminders.

To my knowledge, version 5 is not the most current “enthusiast” software.

It sounds as though the version 5 is resetting the DME, but not the physical display in the dash for some reason. Pulling the fuse will force the dash display to reread the DME when it powers up, and will find the alert gone and stay clear. You might want to drop Durametric an email for further explanations; they have been pretty responsive in the past.

P21S gel wheel cleaner; spray on, rinse off, wipe dry; done.

When the slave fails, they sometimes leak internally. When this happens, insufficient hydraulic pressure is developed to operate the clutch, but there are no external signs of leakage. The slave simply no longer pushes hard enough to work the pressure plate and release the disc.

You may have a dying slave cylinder, not totally uncommon. A realtively simple DIY project to replace, you may want to search the archives for write ups......

Did you hold the clutch pedal to the floor while bleeding the slave cylinder?

That is not normal and requires a valve in the fuel tank vent system to be replaced.

Do you know which valve it is and the part number ?

There are multiple valves in the system, you need to check for pending codes and do a little diagnostics to see what is up.

Try research "EVAP system" for the car. It carries a charcoal cannister and series of valves and lines that capture fuel vapors from the system and route them into the intake to be burned. The system noramlly operates under vacuum, which is probably the source of the sound, although I'm surprised it has not thrown a code............

The is a unused plug and harness behind the center console that is for the OEM telephone, it has both switched power and a ground if you need one.

Usually, it is only the voltage regulator, but you sometimes encounter bad diodes as well. The correct diagnostics would be to load test the battery, then load test the alternator (requires a load test tool), which will evaluate the regulator as well as showing the diode activity (or lack there of). Tool cost between $50-100 US and works on any car.

I am also not sure of what you are saying in you post about running the car with the battery "plugged", but I can assure you that if you run the car and disconnect the battery while it is running, you are in for trouble........

No, only a PIWIS unit or the Durametric software can do it; nothing else works.

That is pretty nasty........... Good find, however.

A brownish tan to light grey color is indicative of a slightly rich than normal combustion condition. Darker colors (dark brown, grey, or even sooty black) indicate a possibly slightly over rich condition on that bank.

If the color change is limited to one bank only, I would be looking at potentially “aged” O2 sensors on that side (it is highly improbably, but not impossible, that all three cylinders are suffering injector issues or some type of oil leakage simultaneously). Fortunately, testing for aging O2 sensors (they become “aged” when they lose their response rates, causing the air/fuel ratios to go slightly out of range) is a simple task using a PIWIS or Durametric system, which can quickly pinpoint which sensor(s) need to be replaced.