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thormann

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Posts posted by thormann

  1. @Silver_TT

     

    Thanks you very much for your support

     

    Yes, Salzburg ist a very nice, tiny village, especially around the Christmas time (with no Corona). I live close to Vienna, but have been in Salzburg  a couple of times.

     

    Her cousin has both a TT and GT3? Very nice...😀

     

    I will try the fluid and the detent and hope very much this will the job. However, I currently have the first factory fill in the transmission (car has about 76.000km only), so this must be the Porsche stuff.

     

    I keep you informed.

     

    Have a good day 

  2. Thanks both for the replies.

     

    I had only read about the Redline NS in combination with my problem. That is why I asked for that. So it would be better to change to the factory fluid? Could that help?

     

    I understood, that the common 2nd gear pop out is a bit different from my problem (immediate pop out after releasing the clutch). Could the detent help in my case as well?

     

    Thanks again!!!

     

     

  3. Hi,

     

    sometimes after shifting to the 2nd gear and releasing the clutch, the gear pops out after a grinding noise. This happens mostly once in cold condition, later there is no issue shifting to the 2nd gear. 

     

    I have read about the 2nd gear pop out and the gbox solution. I understand, that here the 2nd gear pops out after a while. In my case, the problem occurs only when shifting to the 2nd gear. Once the gear is in (with clutch released), it never pops out. 

     

    Most probably my synchro rings are getting worn?  Now I have read about the Redline no slip oil, which could help at least for a while. Has anyone experience with this in a similar case?

    Is it worth a try?

     

    For the moment I would prefer to avoid the exchange the synchro rings, if possible.

     

    Thanks for any comment or help !!

  4. Hi,

     

    both of my condensers were leaking, so I had replaced them. The system was already completely empty.

     

    A workshop refilled the system with 900g R-134a and only 5g oil. I doubt, that they have filled up enough oil. As per manual the total qty. is about 195g and about 20g remain in a single condenser.

     

    So for my understanding at least 2x20g of oil should be added for the replaced condensers and an amount for the oil that escaped together with the refrigerant.

     

    Am I wrong or what is the best procedure to determine the correct amount of oil.

     

    I think adding too much is also not a good idea?

     

    Thanks for any help!!!

     

  5. Hi, I have replaced the right radiator of my 996 4S due to an accident. 

     

    After disconnecting the coolant hoses from the broken radiator, I collected about 1 gallon of coolant.

     

    Now I have installed the the new radiator, filled the coolant reservoir to max, opened the bleeding valve and started the engine. After a while the left radiator is getting warm, so the regulator valve seems to be open. However, the new (right) radiator remains cool. I can feel that the upper hose connected to the radiator is warm, but not the radiator itself and the lower hose. The coolant is still at max level...

     

    Any idea what I am doing wrong?

     

    Thanks a lot,

     

    Thormann

     

     

  6. Hi,

     

    Due to a leak I have to exchange the A/C condensers of my 996 4S (2004). However, my question is A/C and not car specific.

     

    After draining the system in the shop, I have removed the condensers some days ago and my new ones will arrive probably today. Sure, I will replace the filter as well.

     

    My concern is: Since the system was open for a while, ambient (humid) air came into the system. What is the preferred procedure for the filter then? Do I better exchange the filter immediately after 

    I closed the A/C circuit (installed the new condensers) or better only short prior to refill the system (which could be after the weekend only). Or should I even only close the system short before refilling?

     

    Any experience or suggestion is appreciated.

     

    Thanks!!

  7. "Blind" was more a figure, of course, you need feeling for that. Coolant lines are much more to the middle of the car.

     

    13 hours ago, ttocs said:

     It's the possible/likely sliding off of the first stand while jacking at the second point that's scary.

     

    Advantage of my described method is, that you can put both jack stands under the factory points at the same time with only one lift! The car stands stable like a rock. Doesn´t matter if use the yellow or red marked point, but the red would make it easier?

     

     

  8. Thanks again. 

     

    The liftbars are interesting when lifting the entire vehicle. However, for a quick lift at the front not convenient.

     

    Actually the point marked with the yellow arrow ist strong enough and works very good. You only have to watch that the jack is not in the way to put the jack stand under the factory point. This can be done when you use the jack a bit "diagonal".

     

    If the red circled point would be usable, you could put the jack more or less "blind" and straight under the car.I am not sure, but as per manual this should be also a carrying part made of high strenght steel. 

    Bildschirmfoto 2019-01-23 um 14.35.01.jpg

  9. Thanks for your reply! 

     

    When lifting at the rear jacking point, the car (front and rear) comes up only on one side.

     

    With the jacking point in the pic both the left and right front side come up together, which is much more comfortable.

     

    However the point in question (red circle) would make it again easier, since you do not block the way for the jack stand.

     

    Therefore my question, if it is safe.

     

  10. Hi,

     

    I have placed the jack many times at the area marked with the yellow arrow as per Pelican parts proposal. My problem is, that it is alway tricky to put a jack stand under the factory lifting points (green arrow) at the same time, since the jack is still in the way!

     

    It would be much easier for me to lift more behind (e.g. red circle), but I am not sure, if this is strong enough (high strength steel?).

     

    Has somebody tried to lift there? I am a afraid to damage the under car.

     

    Thanks a lot!

    Bildschirmfoto 2019-01-21 um 10.12.06.jpg

  11. Quote

    The factory clamps use a standard clamp crimping tool, they just lay flatter.

     

    Can you link me to such a crimping tool. I have searched for it, but only find the pliers required for the universal clamps, such as I used now! I have attached a photo of the genuine clamp!

     

    I guess tapping on the crimp will loosen it slightly and the clamp is not tight anymore.

     

    Do I really need more clearance or are my concerns not necessary?

    Bildschirmfoto 2018-12-19 um 10.47.52.png

  12. Hi,

     

    I have replaced the boots of the front drive shafts of my 996 4S. 

     

    I have not used the Porsche clamps but standard boot clamps.

     

    The crimped part is very high and close to the boot of  the inner joint. I am concerned that under certain conditions the boot will be damaged (this joint has also axial play).

     

    Has anybody used such kind of clamps before with no issues and my worries are not necessary?

     

    Does anybody know how to fix/crimp the original Porsche clamps? They are much more flat...

     

    Thanks for help!!!

     

     

     

     

     

    IMG_5569.jpg

  13. Hi,

     

    To replace drive shaft boots and strut mount, I have disassembled the wheel bearing carrier. The porsche manual says to replace all safety nuts for the control arm, track rod, drive shaft!

     

    This is O.K. so far, but I read nothing about using Loctite or similar glues on the threads. What is the advice here, if I replace the nuts anyway? Do I need additional glue?

     

    Thanks for any hint!!

     

    Gert

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