Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by thormann

  1. Hi,


    both of my condensers were leaking, so I had replaced them. The system was already completely empty.


    A workshop refilled the system with 900g R-134a and only 5g oil. I doubt, that they have filled up enough oil. As per manual the total qty. is about 195g and about 20g remain in a single condenser.


    So for my understanding at least 2x20g of oil should be added for the replaced condensers and an amount for the oil that escaped together with the refrigerant.


    Am I wrong or what is the best procedure to determine the correct amount of oil.


    I think adding too much is also not a good idea?


    Thanks for any help!!!


  2. Hi, I have replaced the right radiator of my 996 4S due to an accident. 


    After disconnecting the coolant hoses from the broken radiator, I collected about 1 gallon of coolant.


    Now I have installed the the new radiator, filled the coolant reservoir to max, opened the bleeding valve and started the engine. After a while the left radiator is getting warm, so the regulator valve seems to be open. However, the new (right) radiator remains cool. I can feel that the upper hose connected to the radiator is warm, but not the radiator itself and the lower hose. The coolant is still at max level...


    Any idea what I am doing wrong?


    Thanks a lot,





  3. Hi,


    Due to a leak I have to exchange the A/C condensers of my 996 4S (2004). However, my question is A/C and not car specific.


    After draining the system in the shop, I have removed the condensers some days ago and my new ones will arrive probably today. Sure, I will replace the filter as well.


    My concern is: Since the system was open for a while, ambient (humid) air came into the system. What is the preferred procedure for the filter then? Do I better exchange the filter immediately after 

    I closed the A/C circuit (installed the new condensers) or better only short prior to refill the system (which could be after the weekend only). Or should I even only close the system short before refilling?


    Any experience or suggestion is appreciated.



  4. "Blind" was more a figure, of course, you need feeling for that. Coolant lines are much more to the middle of the car.


    13 hours ago, ttocs said:

     It's the possible/likely sliding off of the first stand while jacking at the second point that's scary.


    Advantage of my described method is, that you can put both jack stands under the factory points at the same time with only one lift! The car stands stable like a rock. Doesn´t matter if use the yellow or red marked point, but the red would make it easier?



  5. Thanks again. 


    The liftbars are interesting when lifting the entire vehicle. However, for a quick lift at the front not convenient.


    Actually the point marked with the yellow arrow ist strong enough and works very good. You only have to watch that the jack is not in the way to put the jack stand under the factory point. This can be done when you use the jack a bit "diagonal".


    If the red circled point would be usable, you could put the jack more or less "blind" and straight under the car.I am not sure, but as per manual this should be also a carrying part made of high strenght steel. 

    Bildschirmfoto 2019-01-23 um 14.35.01.jpg

  6. Thanks for your reply! 


    When lifting at the rear jacking point, the car (front and rear) comes up only on one side.


    With the jacking point in the pic both the left and right front side come up together, which is much more comfortable.


    However the point in question (red circle) would make it again easier, since you do not block the way for the jack stand.


    Therefore my question, if it is safe.


  7. Hi,


    I have placed the jack many times at the area marked with the yellow arrow as per Pelican parts proposal. My problem is, that it is alway tricky to put a jack stand under the factory lifting points (green arrow) at the same time, since the jack is still in the way!


    It would be much easier for me to lift more behind (e.g. red circle), but I am not sure, if this is strong enough (high strength steel?).


    Has somebody tried to lift there? I am a afraid to damage the under car.


    Thanks a lot!

    Bildschirmfoto 2019-01-21 um 10.12.06.jpg

  8. Quote

    The factory clamps use a standard clamp crimping tool, they just lay flatter.


    Can you link me to such a crimping tool. I have searched for it, but only find the pliers required for the universal clamps, such as I used now! I have attached a photo of the genuine clamp!


    I guess tapping on the crimp will loosen it slightly and the clamp is not tight anymore.


    Do I really need more clearance or are my concerns not necessary?

    Bildschirmfoto 2018-12-19 um 10.47.52.png

  9. Hi,


    I have replaced the boots of the front drive shafts of my 996 4S. 


    I have not used the Porsche clamps but standard boot clamps.


    The crimped part is very high and close to the boot of  the inner joint. I am concerned that under certain conditions the boot will be damaged (this joint has also axial play).


    Has anybody used such kind of clamps before with no issues and my worries are not necessary?


    Does anybody know how to fix/crimp the original Porsche clamps? They are much more flat...


    Thanks for help!!!







  10. Hi,


    To replace drive shaft boots and strut mount, I have disassembled the wheel bearing carrier. The porsche manual says to replace all safety nuts for the control arm, track rod, drive shaft!


    This is O.K. so far, but I read nothing about using Loctite or similar glues on the threads. What is the advice here, if I replace the nuts anyway? Do I need additional glue?


    Thanks for any hint!!



  11. Hello,


    I am a little confused and could not find an answer yet!


    I need to remove the front struts to replace the strut mounts. Therefore I need to crack the ball joints of the track rod and the control arm.


    In the manual is referred to a special Porsche tool 9560 (C) for the control arm and a commercially available tool (B) for the track rod. Since I want to buy the correct tools, I have some questions:


    -The tools look very similar, except that the one for the track rod has a flat outside and the one for the control arm a flat inside. Is that correct?


    -Except the size the 2 ball joints look very similar to me. For my understanding the tool with the flat inside would also be the besser option for the track rod (foto). How can the proposed tool (B) work here?


    -What are the required sizes (jaw opening) for the joints?


    Thank you for any help!





    Bildschirmfoto 2018-11-24 um 19.47.00.png

  12. I am not sure, if I understand you right:


    At the front the engine is still being held by the engine mounting bracket! To support the transmission side of the engine, I will use the same point, the Porsche bar does!


    You are right, that adjusting under weight (even under only estimated 100kgs) doesn‘t work! So I need to slightly support with a jack somewhere

  13. Quote

    The bar also gives you the ability to make small adjustments in height and angle of the engine which is helpful in remounting the transmission.


    I was thinking of using such kind of jack stand, which is adjustable as well.




    So, from your experience: Will this be wobbly!


    Unfortunately I can not weld this bar by myself and these stands I have at home

  14. Thanks for the answer!


    Since I do not have a lift, I want to put the car on 4 jack stands and I do not move the car with the transmission removed! So these advantages of the engine support bar are not required for me.


    Is it then safe to take the engine weight with a jack stand at the same point? Or do horizontal forces occur, that the stand can not take and wobbles or something?

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.