thormann

Hello,

I am a little confused and could not find an answer yet!

I need to remove the front struts to replace the strut mounts. Therefore I need to crack the ball joints of the track rod and the control arm.

In the manual is referred to a special Porsche tool 9560 (C) for the control arm and a commercially available tool (B) for the track rod. Since I want to buy the correct tools, I have some questions:

-The tools look very similar, except that the one for the track rod has a flat outside and the one for the control arm a flat inside. Is that correct?

-Except the size the 2 ball joints look very similar to me. For my understanding the tool with the flat inside would also be the besser option for the track rod (foto). How can the proposed tool (B) work here?

-What are the required sizes (jaw opening) for the joints?

Thank you for any help!

I am not sure, if I understand you right:

At the front the engine is still being held by the engine mounting bracket! To support the transmission side of the engine, I will use the same point, the Porsche bar does!

You are right, that adjusting under weight (even under only estimated 100kgs) doesn‘t work! So I need to slightly support with a jack somewhere

Good to hear from someone with experience. I will give this a try then.

This is a 12t stand from Bahco, a European company. I like the way to adjust the height and very solid. Gives me a good feeling under the car...

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The bar also gives you the ability to make small adjustments in height and angle of the engine which is helpful in remounting the transmission.

I was thinking of using such kind of jack stand, which is adjustable as well.

So, from your experience: Will this be wobbly!

Unfortunately I can not weld this bar by myself and these stands I have at home

Thanks for the answer!

Since I do not have a lift, I want to put the car on 4 jack stands and I do not move the car with the transmission removed! So these advantages of the engine support bar are not required for me.

Is it then safe to take the engine weight with a jack stand at the same point? Or do horizontal forces occur, that the stand can not take and wobbles or something?

Hi,

I know this is an old thread, but I found it when I was looking for a way to support my engine!

What I do not understand, is the advantage of the special Porsche tool or a similar design. 

Why can‘t I simply take the weight of the engine with a normal jack at the same point, the special tool does! Or would this be wobbly? I have never removed the transmission so far, so I am thinking only theoretically!

Maybe someone can make me sleep again?

Hello,

I am planning to replace the clutch of my 996 4s and therefore need to remove the transmission.

I will put the car on these 20" (max) Bahco jack stands. 

Would a 5th of this jack stand also be able to support the engine? In my opinion the effect is similar to the original Porsche tool (except that it stands on the bottom and is not connected to the car). The stand could be screwed exactly to a height "touching" the crankcase. Or am I wrong and need more of these or something different?

Further I need a transmission jack! Can someone recommend one? What is the maximum lowest height of this jack to remove the transmission from under the car. 

Thanks for hints!

Gert

Thanks again for the replies!!

12 hours ago, judgejon said:

another thought...

I had to have window regulator replaced in drivers door as window was not lowering when door opened and was hitting the molding when closing.  A bit of a pain..

Regulator assembly replaced and now window drops a little bit as it should, but makes kind of a thud sound when going up as door is closed.  Might need an adjustment, but I'm for sure not taking door apart to do that.

Maybe your sound is something like that?  Kind of a thud from top of window area when door is closed and window goes back into fully closed position?

Hope you figure it out.  This kind of stuff drives me crazy too.   Cheers,

It makes me crazy, too! The windows goes only down a bit, when I open the door! But the sound is already there when unlocking the car

4 hours ago, DBJoe996 said:

And another thought - there is one more thing that unlocks when you unlock the car, the fuel filler lid.  Maybe that is sticking or is not aligned properly.  You could put your ear down next to the fuel filler lid and unlock the car...see if the noise is from that.

Very good idea, that was the solution for me, I thought! I tried immediately with the fuel lid open, but the sound is not coming from there. The pin of the lid and the rest of the power lock seem to move almost to the same time. And immediately afterwards, I hear this stupid jarring sound!

By the way, it only happens, when unlocking the complete car with the remote! It does not happen, when unlocking the hood with the remote (although the doors will be opened as well)!

Meanwhile I assume, this is something of the seat memory! However, I have deleted it for this key! Very annoying...

15 hours ago, wizard said:

Hello.

 

The door latch?

 

Do you also get the jarring noise if you manually unlock the door with your key?

No, then only the door opens!

10 hours ago, judgejon said:

my key only unlocks doors.  there is a separate button for front compartment.   2003 C4$

are you sure the sound is not just the door lock mechanism?

It's possible there is a loose part of the window regulator assembly that's getting bumped.

This might involve the parts for the windows to drop down just a little bit when door is opened, and then go back up when door is closed.

I'm not sure if windows also drop a little on opening door on a cabriolet.  Possible.

Good luck.

Oh, sorry! I thought in the 996 range the lock is the same! I have a 2004 996 C4 4S coupe (sunroof)! The problem is, that I hear the jarring sound only, if I have not unlocked the door for an hour or so! Therefore my question to limit the parts to check! As far as I could determine so far, the sound does not come from the doors, but not 100% sure!

10 hours ago, judgejon said:

my key only unlocks doors.  there is a separate button for front compartment.   2003 C4$

are you sure the sound is not just the door lock mechanism?

It's possible there is a loose part of the window regulator assembly that's getting bumped.

This might involve the parts for the windows to drop down just a little bit when door is opened, and then go back up when door is closed.

I'm not sure if windows also drop a little on opening door on a cabriolet.  Possible.

Good luck.

I don´t think the sound is coming from one door! The windows drop down when the door is open, but not when unlocked!

Thanks for the replies so far!

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15 hours ago, wizard said:

Hello.

 

The door latch?

 

Do you also get the jarring noise if you manually unlock the door with your key?

No!

Quote

14 hours ago, DBJoe996 said:

Year and model would help.  When you press the unlock on the remote, both doors unlock and the frunk lid and engine lid buttons (or cable pulls depending on year) unlock.  Maybe it is one of those.  Try unlocking the car while listening to where the sound is coming from, i.e., inside the door, at the bottom of the door and so on.  Does it do the same thing when you use the dash lock/unlock button?  Maybe while sitting in the car you can lock/unlock and determine where the noise is coming from. 

Oh, sorry! I thought in the 996 range the lock is the same! I have a 2004 996 C4 4S coupe (sunroof)! The problem is, that I hear the jarring sound only, if I have not unlocked the door for an hour or so! Therefore my question to limit the parts to check! As far as I could determine so far, the sound does not come from the doors, but not 100% sure!

Quote

9 hours ago, judgejon said:

my key only unlocks doors.  there is a separate button for front compartment.   2003 C4$

are you sure the sound is not just the door lock mechanism?

It's possible there is a loose part of the window regulator assembly that's getting bumped.

This might involve the parts for the windows to drop down just a little bit when door is opened, and then go back up when door is closed.

I'm not sure if windows also drop a little on opening door on a cabriolet.  Possible.

Good luck.

 

I think the sound is not coming from one door!

Thanks for the replies so far!

Hi,

when I unlock the car with the remote I can hear the power lock and immediately afterwards a jarring sound! Therefore the above question, what all is "moved"

when I press the unlock button! The power lock of the driver and passenger door and something else, which I need to locate to grease or so!

I have deleted the seat memory for the key, but the jarring sound still comes up!

Where can I look?

Thanks, Marco

Thanks for your reply!

Yes, I have read about the 180° thing! However, this doesn´t work for me! I tried a pick in the small hole and even a big screwdriver in the big hole with a little more power! This ring doesn´t 

turn!

Further the manual shows exactly "my" position. In this position I can put the wire about 1" into the lock´s hole! However, nothing happens! How far do I need to put it in?

Has one photos of this mechanism, I have to release! So far it is hard to imagine for me, how this shall get off

Thanks again!!

Meanwhile I could disconnect the plug. I used a flat screwdriver and pushed on the clamp of the plug through the hole in the housing (photo above)

Now I need to seperate the keylock from the steering wheel lock! While ignition on 1, the small hole is close to the 1 o´clock position (photos). I used a 

1,3mm electro wire and could put that in the hole about 1/2", however it did not unlock anything! The diameter of the wire should be within the range (1,3-1,5mm) of 

the manual!

In dmcole´s DIY tutorial I read that the "beauty ring" shall be rotated 180°, so that the small hole is in the 7 o´clock position! However, I can not even rotate the beauty ring without the rest. Is there any trick?

Any help would be appreciated!!

Thanks, Thormann

Hi,

I am "trying" to replace my complete ignition lock assembly. So far it was not a problem and after disassembling the left vent and the instrument cluster I could mechanically disassemble the ignition/steering lock! Electrically I have disconnected the ignition switch and the harness from the immobilizer! 

However, I can not disconnect the plug with 2 wires from the lock barrel (lock barrel is still in the steering lock unit). Is there any trick for that?

Thanks, Thormann

No one opened the front diff yet?

Hi there,

I wonder, if anyone has already opened/repaired the front diff of a 996 4WD?

I am not sure how to "push" the side bearings back into the housing and housing cover! Do I need a special press for that or can I

carefully put it in place and close the cover? 

I am a little afraid to damage the housing...

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks...

Gert

Hi,

I am having exactly the same issue with my sunroof as described!

What did you suggest, Loren? Did it work?

Thanks!!

The motor? I was hoping this is just a control thing!

O.K, then I will order a new motor and hope it works!

I have tried the above, but even then it works only once, and next time I have to repeat the procedure again.

Yes, but after some minutes, it seems to be forgotten

Hi,

I can not open or close my sunroof in the usual way. If it is in the closed position, the open button is without function. I need to depress the closing or lifting button until the roof is lifted, then I can close the roof again with the open button. Only then I can open the roof either by pressing the open button (comfort function) or holding the open button. I have tried the above, but even then it works only once, and next time I have to repeat the procedure again.

Can anybody help??

Thanks!

I just installed the 997 actuator and it works perfectly, thanks once more!

I found the length of the rod is adjustable and results into different opening positions of the flap inside the bypass!

Has anyone experienced sound differences out of this?

Thanks, Gert

Thanks a lot, that´s good news !!!

I´ll get the 997 actuator then!

Meanwhile I could get hold of a pump.

I found one of the vacuum boxes, attached to the muffler is leaking.

However, this box is not sold separately for the 996, only the complete muffler.

In the 997 catalogue is a part no. for the vacuum box itself. I wonder, if I can use this for the 996 too? This box is about USD 80,- only

and to be honest, I would not like to buy a new muffler for more than USD 1.000,-, just for this "cheap" part!

Thanks a lot!

Gert

Thank you very much for the photos. The vacuum pump is a good idea. I will try to get one!

Thanks for replies.

I tested the solenoid and could definitively hear a clear click, when energizing and deenergizing. So, unfotunately, the solenoid seems to work and this is not the problem (would be the easiest, I think).

But how can I check the hose system. I can not imagine, that the leaks are visible. Connected is everything as it should.

My idea to limit the leak is to start disconnecting at the beginnig (branch upstream the vacuum tank) of the system and feel at the open outlet, if there is vacuum or not (with running engine, of course).

If I feel vacuum, I go the a more downstream connection.

Is is possible to feel the vacuum? Maybe a stupid question: Is the vacuum for the PSE only? I can not see branches going to anything else!

Thanks one more!

Gert