bavarian

The convertibles already get a speed feed to disable the power top switch at 30mph--how about tapping into the source of that signal?

I've tried most FM modulators knowd to man, and have given up. Unless you live in a rural area with few strong fm radio signals there will always be some interference. I even hard-wired a modulator into my antenna jack with an on/off switch and the sound quality sucked. The Dension iPod connector is never going to happen, so I just live with what I have; IMO it doesn't make sense to rip out everything and install a new system unless you're keeping the car forever.

Postscript: When I started my car this afternoon, the radio worked fine. I guess this is one of those gremlins my BMW 745Li is famous for (after 3 years most have been resolved, but there is always another one when you least expect it!) When I bring my P-car in for its 15K service next month I'll mention the radio problem. The SA thinks I will need a replacement radio, so we will see.

I don't have PCM2 or a CD changer. I have had this problem before, but only for a few seconds: if I turned the unit off and on again, it would come back to life--not this time (I gave it 45 minutes). If it still doesn't work this evening, I will try Wardhogs idea of pulling it out and pushing it back in, however, it sounds to me like he might be referring to a dead radio without working display.

Loren/anyone: today I turned on my radio ('04 C4S cab factory Bose) and there is no sound. The radio lights up, all buttons produce the usual visual results, but there is zero sound. Is there a fuse which controls sound output, perhaps for the amp? The factory booklet is notoriously inadequate, and there are no detailed listings for all the fuses in the car. I have searched this forum without success; I hope it is just a small matter of replacing a blown fuse... Thanks in advance.

Having read the entire thread, I found the first comment most interesting: they will not be able to replace this owner's ("BigDaddy")RMS because PAG is scrapping all their existing replacement parts. The new parts will be available in August, and are expected to put an end to this problem once and for all. We shall see.....

Richard--would any of these work with my '04 C4S which has the MOST fiber optics? If yes, which one would you recommend for my final attempt to hardwire an FM modulator for my iPod? And could you tell me where it should be wired... Thanks, John

I never use my windscreen, but yesterday I tried it for the first time, and it fits just fine. It snaps into the center plug just below the detector.

I have thought long and hard about finding a discreet installation for my new Valentine 1 radar detector. Because I drive a cab, I needed to place the unit out of sight when parking with the top down. I also don't like the fact that cops and other drivers can see the unit anywhere near the windshield from behind or in front (also when I park in a public garage I don't want it visible). I am willing to sacrifice some of the superb functions such as laser detection and rear alert. Most of my local law enforcement (NJ/NYC area) use the old fashioned radar equipment, anyway. So here is what I did. I installed the remote display and on/off/volume remote in one of my cubby spaces, using the OEM CD holder surround. I had to get creative using foam tape and picture frame insert to trim everything out. I installed the actual unit in the rear of the cab. The power is hardwired into the phone connector behind the batwing. I had to remove the cover behind the seats and cut away some black plastic trim by the top/center so that the V1 could fit as high as possible. Then I built a small metal shelf and attached it with double sided tape. Running the wire from the front center console through the tunnel under the rear center console, and then around underneath the carpet under the rear seats, past the rear speakers. I had to cut an opening into the carpeted board, and the front of the V1 now protrudes about 3/4 inch into the space between the seatbacks. I cut some extra carpeting from the back of the board and mounted it on a curved cover to complete the concealed installation. It works very well -- I was surprised at how many signals it picks up, and it even catches all side radar and most rear ones (even though there is a metal partition behind it).

Before you follow the B&M instructions, do yourself a favor and check the earlier posts describing the "disconnect at the shifter" method (which I used, as well). You don't have to mark the cables--they never get disconnected; you simply snap off the clip attached to the bottom of the old shifter, and reattach it to the new one. The cables remain exactly the same and there is zero need for measuring or adjusting. Also, you should spray some good lubricant into the moving shifter parts before you close everything up: it makes a huge difference in terms of smoothness.

Triathlete--you seem to have a '99 C2. This means that you did not have to deal with the post '02 MOST based fiber=optic crap units like myself. We can't just swap out the head unit, but have to get rid of the other wiring and components as well.....

I had mine replaced at 800 miles (rock chip) and it is exactly like stock. My local high end body shop contacted their auto glass supplier, and they swapped windshields in a few hours. Cost was about 900, I think.

I have to believe that the ratings are skewed by the Cayenne. The newer 996 (including my C4S cab) are solid as a rock, and I have had zero defects in 12 months of ownership (the potential RMS headache in the future is another matter). By comparison, my 02 745Li has had countless problems.

Like Loren says--don't lug the engine, let it warm up nicely, and then increase the maximum revs by a few hundred each 300-500 miles. I kept it under 4000 rpm for the first 1000 miles, and hit 5500 by 2000 miles. I now have 11,000 on the car and use practically zero oil in hard highway and stop-and-go driving. Enjoy!

If you like the color and options, go for it. There is no way short of a maniac on the loose that could do permanent damage to such a low mileage car. My '04 now has 11,000 miles on it since I bought it (new) and is solid as a rock, using almost no oil and requiring zero maintenance.

Not to negate your efforts, but this might be a good time to upgrade your horn. I found the OEM horn to be very timid, and unlikely to get the attention of, say, a truck backing into you (ask me how I know!). On the recommendation of someone on this board I bought an Italian air-horn from Griots ($39 or so) and it made a world of difference. The install should be a cinch for you by now!

I discovered a strange alarm issue this week. I had posted earlier that my car does not beep when I leave the glove compartment open (in the rear center console) and lock the doors. I have checked the plug-in wire underneath, and it seems OK. Because I'm never quite sure if the car is locked when I press my key (and as I'm paranoid parking in a public garage), I try to open the door right away to make sure it is locked. Lately, when I do this, the car beeps (once)--this is fine for me as it confirms that everything is locked and that the alarm is on. Any ideas what might be going on?

Final word ( hopefully): I just had the opportunity to drive in varying rain conditions for 45 minutes, so I am in a position to give a fair evaluation of the retro-fit. I highly recommend it. It allows you to leave the stalk in the intermittent position at all times, rain or shine, and will activate automatically. The sensitivity cannot be adjusted, but it seems to work just fine 95% of the time.

One caveat: to the best of my knowledge these will NOT work with '03 or newer CDR-320 MOST based fiber optic units like my '04 C4S with Bose.

Eric, Just wondering, but what do you mean by 1 year service? I have the same car ('04 C4S cab), and I had my oil changed last month (9000 mi), but I would think the first service is due at 15,000. Unless you have that many miles already.... John

If the three screws are out, you just have to wiggle it to get it out. Don't pull too far as the light switch wires are short!

Side A/C vents are each held by 3 torx screws (2 visible, 1 concealed). The passenger side concealed screw is easily accessed by prying off the "rosette" grill next to the vent. The driver's side requires removing the light switch knob. Push a very small screwdriver upward into the small hole underneath (at the 6 o'clock position) and pull off at the same time. The screw hole is angled toward the right at the 3 o'clock position. Hope this helps.

Trauh, I took my hardtop off a few weeks ago, and it was stuck on one side. The handle had been turned all the way, but it still felt locked. I had to lift up from the windshield, and then it finally released. BTW, I had installed the new latches also. I'm not too worried about it.

I've only used it twice (it hasn't rained in a while), and I'm not sure I can recommend it. Of course, I had hoped to be able to increase/decrease the sensitivity like on my other cars, so I was bummed when turning the dash knob made no difference. It does work quite well, however, and you could supposedly leave the system on intermittent all the time--it will only kick in when there is rain or mist. I will probably keep it because it is still better than stock, and the cost (about $180) is reasonable.

Last word and final answer: I called the German manufacturer (Xanonex GmbH) and was told that since 2000 the system is completely automatic and does not use the dashboard switch to regulate speed or sensitivity. The adjustable relay as pictured in the TSB has not been available since then. (It helped that I am fluent in German!)