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laalves

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laalves last won the day on March 30

laalves had the most liked content!

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About laalves

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    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 01/07/1970

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    http://www.aviaqual.com
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  • From
    Portugal
  • Porsche Club
    Other
  • Present cars
    Porsche 996TT Basaltschwarz Coupé MY02
    Tesla Model 3 Dual Motor
  • Future cars
    Porsches, as many as possible
  • Former cars
    Audi A4 Avant 2.0TDi 143HP MY09
    Audi A4 Avant 1.9TDi 130HP MY04
    Audi A3 1.9 TDi 110HP MY00
    Seat Ibiza 1.9D

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  1. If you are even considering that, that's because you don't really like the car and should sell it. To me. For cheap.
  2. Here's official information for the US: https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment-deta...643749#recalls Quite a few interesting technical details.
  3. Here's official information for the US: https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment-deta...643749#recalls Quite a few interesting technical details.
  4. Just read this: Safety problem with Ohlins R&T on 996 turbos - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Turbo Forum - Safety problem with Ohlins R&T on 996 turbos - Just saw this on Facebook, sent an email to Ohlins EU and they... I bought mine on 06/2018 from design911.com and installed them on 09/2018. No problems since and very happy with their performance but now I’m concerned. Design911 confirmed this to me today but they have no further details. Also wrote to Ohlins directly but had no replies yet.
  5. Sorry, but i have to insist. Cars are not designed that way, they do not draw from the battery at idle, batteries would not last through a single winter of urban traffic jams as they would never be recharged after they started the engine. There's no point in continuing this discussion.
  6. Family in new car, dead winter, night, snow storm. Car goes off-road and gets stuck in snow in the middle of nowhere. Car is idling, heater at max, radio playing, headlights on, window defrosters on. Alternator not putting out enough current and needs to draw current from the battery to keep everything running, "as designed". After a couple of hours, battery dies and the engine follows suit. Family dies. Manufacturer says: "Tough luck, car was working as designed". Doesn't happen in a car working to spec.
  7. Sorry, that cannot happen in a modern, well functioning car. If it were, cars would not idle for long. Battery would be depleted and there would not be enough current to keep the car running. If they had big aftermarket amplifiers then that surely can happen. Stock consumers, that doesn't happen. That's why the bassbombing crews install bigger alternators, bigger batteries and capacitors to increase available current reserve to feed the monster subs. To have all that working properly, it may even require an ECU remap to compensate for increased idle torque due to the bigger alternators. That's
  8. Any recent car has an electrical system designed to not let that happen, if working per spec. The alternator produces enough energy to all the consumers in the car at all regimes. The 996TT has a nominal 150A alternator which provides max current, if needed, already at idle. AFAIR, those Bosch alts max at 1300rpm (alt rpm, not engine). It's just 2.8HP stolen from the engine anyway. If a consumer requests more current, the regulator ensures that it is provided. What that behaviour tells is that the alternator and/or regulator were not to spec. From the moment you turn the engine on,
  9. Let me try to get this thread back to its original intent: I bought a new interesting toy for my car and am sharing my experience with the other members. I have learned a lot in this forum, much more than I have given back and occasionally I try to share a bit of my knowledge and experiences here and in other forums I participate in. For quite a few years, I have been also giving back in financial support to help keeping the place up and running. Let me also make a disclaimer: I don't work for or in any way am affiliated or have any interest in battery manufacturers, resellers, ca
  10. This is my battery: This is the one you were talking about: In the box you get screw-on optional SAE terminals. It appears that in Australia they supply brass and the European distributor supplies aluminium ones, which are the ones you can in my car. They can be screwed on in multiple ways, as convenient. In my case, I screwed them on sideways, otherwise the battery cables would not reach the terminals.
  11. Now I noticed where you picked that, it’s the wrong battery: Lithiumax RESTART9 EV/HYBRID Series ULTRA-LITE Vehicle Battery | Lithiumax 2020 WWW.LITHIUMAX.COM.AU The perfect battery for your EV, PHEV or HYBRID vehicle. Delivering reliable, environmentally friendly and safe power to start PHEV and... that one is for EVs, PHEVs and the like.
  12. Never seen that push button statement, that’s interesting. Can you please point me there? My battery is this: Lithiumax GEN 3 RESTART9 LCD 900CA ULTRA-LITE Engine Starter Battery | Lithiumax 2020 WWW.LITHIUMAX.COM.AU The all new Autosport International Award Winning Lithiumax RESTART9 LCD battery. Weighing just 3.9kg the NEW 3rd... That’s the manufacturer website. This does have a push button that’s there for 2 things, per the manual: 1. Press it and the voltage shows up in the LCD. 2. If th
  13. Right, so out of curiosity, just emailed the manufacturer in Australia and they replied in about 30 seconds: "The RESTART9 is nominal 24Ah and 800CCA." Not toooooooo different from my guestimation.
  14. I was comparing the small lithium battery values in my bike its mfg published (real Ah vs "PbEq" Ah; CA and CCA) with the bigger lithium battery in my car, for which the mfg only published "PbEq" Ah and CA and since it's more or less apples to apples (LiFePO4 to LiFePO4) I was making an approximation to come up with possible missing values for the bigger battery. Given there's a relatively hight probability that the same Chinese manufacturer made the LiFePO4 cells in both (BYD, CATL, AVIC, etc), it's not too bad an assumption.
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