EricP

I had my TC replaced Tuesday, fully covered. I brought it in last month 1 day before the warranty (the new one) expired, talk about good timing! At that, it took several days to get it approved as I do have over 100k miles and even though it is unlimited, they do push back by default on anything with over 100k miles.

NOW I get to see if I will be reimbursed for the 2016 TC replacement I paid for, just waiting for the letter to arrive.

Hi All,

I received this email today:

Thanks again for the advice. I had ordered new TC oil (Ravenol) and the additive and was going to change my transfer case oil this weekend, but I got this email today so I will wait until they replace the TC and will then check/change oil. 

Hi All,

Adding to the list.

2011 S, 126k miles

9/15/2016 had the transfer case replaced at a local dealer, 84k miles

Yesterday was told I need a new transfer case again @ 126k miles. Seems a bit crazy. I have never replaced a transfer case on any other vehicles I have owned. Now 2 in less that 4 years on the same vehicle. 

I have contacted Porsche NA for some sort of relief. I don't have any expectations.

I would also ask, is it crazy difficult to replace myself? I am fairly capable. Also, can I do it on jack stands or does it sort of require a lift?

Thanks,

-Eric

Thanks! I'll give that a try.

Hi,

I have a 2011 S and am wondering if there is a way to silence or at least turn down the audible tones from the parking sensors?

Thanks,

-Eric

I wasn't able to get that bolt off under the intake. I think it's an 8mm bolt (I was almost able to get a wrench on it) and so I opted to cut the line on both sides of that bracket, put the new line/valve in place and then zip tie it to the old piece of line I left attached to the bracket. I will probably take the manifolds off over Winter when I clean them and the throttle body.

It's too soon to see if the P0446 code is fixed, but my other annoying symptom has gone away, which was it was very hard to start after fueling up. I filled up this morning started right up without issue. Previously I had to crank for a bit and hit the gas pedal to start up and then keep it running for a moment before moving as it sometimes stalled. I'm glad that is solved, that was getting very annoying.

I'll update when I've driven a few hundred miles.

-Eric

I have the valve, does the intake need to be removed to get to the valve?

I replaced both valves that are located above the front passenger tire, behind the headlight. Still getting the same codes. I wasn't able to get the valve changed in the evap canister, I may try again, I had trouble getting the canister out and was running out of time.

I am getting a sound which I tracked to the vent that is near the gas cap, which comes from where I replaced the valves. Sounds like a fan or motor type noise, but I think it's a sucking sound. I can stop the noise by putting my finger over the vent tube. I have also ordered the other valve (#1 from the diagram). Could that one be related? If bad maybe drawing in too much air?

-Eric

I apparently ordered the wrong valve (which is the other valve in the assembly) and so I will have to wait until the correct valve arrives to complete this task. I did check fuse E6 and it is fine. Any other thoughts as to why it would be difficult to start after filling up (and this only ever happens after filling up, otherwise starting is not an issue).

When the correct valve arrive, I also plan to remove and check the valve on the canister as that is the one I errantly ordered.

There are 2 valves located in an assembly behind the passenger headlight, basically directly above the tire. I was able to get in there and remove both valves from the headlight opening.

Thanks,

-Eric

The drawing I gave you is from the 2001 OBD II diagnostics manual for the 986 Boxster, and is current and correct to my knowledge. But I need to point out that Loren is correct, there are valves at the EVAP canister, which is in the passenger's wheel well, as well us under the intake manifold; you need to be sure about which valve you are asking about, there is more than one..............and the one pictured in the thread you brought up is at the canister while the purge valve is under the intake runners.........

OK, that's what I have sort of figured out during all this research. I will try this valve this weekend and hopefully not move on from there :)

-Eric

Fill up problems are usually related to the flapper in the fill neck which is totally unrelated to your issues, do a search as it is often as simple as a blown fuse.

P0446 is for high flow resistance in the EVAP canister, usually associated with blocked purge air line. Replacing the O2 sensors was a common mistake for the P1128 and 1130 codes, which is an indication of an overly lean condition caused by intake air leaks or low fuel delivery problems causing the engine to run overly lean, there was nothing wrong the sensors.

OK, that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I agree (now) that there was nothoing wrong with the sensors :)

Based on a thread I read I would need to either replace the valve I purchased, or another valve ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-110-129-06-M100&catalog_description=&Regeneration%2520Valve%2520from%2520Throttle%2520Body%2520for%2520Fuel%2520Vapor%2520System%252C%2520Boxster%252FBoxster%2520S%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2537%252D%2530%2534%2529%252C%2520Each%2520 ) which I think is the one that runs under the intake previously mentioned.

-Eric

Picture is a bit poor, but that looks like the item. You should also blow air into the purge air line (item#3 in diagram):

Thanks for the diagram. It's strange, I found this thread (http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33970-strange-whistling-sound/?hl=%2Bstrange+%2Bwhistling+%2Bsound) last night and it references the valve I purchased being located basically behind the passenger side headlight. I think his was a MY '00, did they change things that much year over year?

Thanks for all your help, it's been helpful.

-Eric

Fill up problems are usually related to the flapper in the fill neck which is totally unrelated to your issues, do a search as it is often as simple as a blown fuse.

P0446 is for high flow resistance in the EVAP canister, usually associated with blocked purge air line. Replacing the O2 sensors was a common mistake for the P1128 and 1130 codes, which is an indication of an overly lean condition caused by intake air leaks or low fuel delivery problems causing the engine to run overly lean, there was nothing wrong the sensors.

OK, that makes a lot of sense, thank you. I agree (now) that there was nothoing wrong with the sensors :)

Based on a thread I read I would need to either replace the valve I purchased, or another valve ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-110-129-06-M100&catalog_description=&Regeneration%2520Valve%2520from%2520Throttle%2520Body%2520for%2520Fuel%2520Vapor%2520System%252C%2520Boxster%252FBoxster%2520S%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2537%252D%2530%2534%2529%252C%2520Each%2520 ) which I think is the one that runs under the intake previously mentioned.

-Eric

Did they move this valve to the engine area in '01? The parts diagram shows the valve at the other end of the line, or am I missing something?

It's part #9 in this link http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/986-97-04/201-20.php?pn=99660521301#a but where is that top assembly located?

Perhaps you need to be more specific on which valve you are talking about - as the one in this thread is the one on the canister.

What was your fault code(s)?

I ordered part# 99660521301 based on reading a couple threads and getting the P0446 code on my car. I have replaced both sensors in front of the pre cats, still getting the P0446 and also P1128 & P1130. I saw a couple threads here refernceing this valve as well as the one under the intake manifold. Also when I fill up with gas the car is very hard to start, I have to crank it several times and also use the gas pedal, making me think the evap tank valve may be the better choice to replace. I welcome any suggestions.

-Eric

Did they move this valve to the engine area in '01? The parts diagram shows the valve at the other end of the line, or am I missing something?

It's part #9 in this link http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/986-97-04/201-20.php?pn=99660521301#a but where is that top assembly located?

Yes I did, and zoomed in. Maybe different model years?

I have a 2001 Base and purchased a new vapor canister valve. I removed the front tire and part of the cowling(?) but was unable to locate the valve to replace it. Anyone have any suggestions how I mat find it?

Thanks,

-Eric

So yesterday Nick was helping me install my new alarm computer. We were finally successful in getting the Immobilizer code inpuit into the new alarm and when he went to transfer in the key codes we read out from the old alarm computer we were unable to continue because the readout showed "TIME BLOCK RUNNING" I found one reference to it on Renntech that pretty stated we could wait from 1-16 hurs for this process to complete. We weren't going to wait that long so I pulled the new alarm and put the old one back in to get home.

I am wondering if anyone has seen this before and has any advice or knowledge of this. Also now that the new alarm computer has the immobilizer code input would putting it back in and leaving it for a while allow this process to complete so we can add keys later without having to wait? I am guessing this process is the alarm computer syncing up with the OBC. Seems ridiculous to take that long.

Thanks again Nick for your help and patience.

Thanks,

Eric

sound system upgrade.... going very slow.

I bid on a 6 channel amp on ebay and someone swiped it last minute as I slept in this weekend... Oh well, I'm wondering if I should start with upgrading the front dash speakers first anyway. maybe I lost the ebay auction for a reason.

Anyway, I'm getting ready to buy the front speakers and the door speakers. I have been reading several posts and following Andy M's great documentation. I wanted to find out if the 4” MB Quart DKD 110 coaxial drivers are still the best speaker for the dash. Also to clarify, I do not replace the tweeter, correct?

For the doors, I saw the 6 ½” MB Quart DKE-116 coaxial drivers that Andy M used and I also saw someone talking about Kicker brand for the door.

So, my question is what is the latest and greatest that everyone seems to be happy with?

Having lost the bid on the 6 channel porsche amp, I am wondering how much sound I would even hear out of the rear speakers because my seats rest right against the rear compartments so the speakers would for the most part be firing right in to the back of the seat. Do you hear much at all? Is it just because your ears are sitting right there so you get a little bit?

One last question, I want to keep the stock head unit (CDR-220) but as I think about sirius radio, ipod, amplifiers, I wonder about getting a new head unit that will accommodate those items without having so many external devices. Anyone very happy with a head unit that doesn't look too crazy and isn't too costly. I like the Pioneer AVIC that has been posted but it's way out of my range.

Well,

Thanks for everyone's help and wisdom.

I recently did the 4x40 to 6x40 AMP swap and it is well worth it keep looking on ebay and Craig's list until you find one. I can't comment on which to start with, speakers or AMP, because I haven't changed out speaker syet but plan to. My setup is the stock front and door speakers and Harvey's rear kit and going from the rears hooked to the head unti @ 18 watts to them hooked to the AMP @ 40 watts was a big difference. I have the seats all the way back and can still hear the difference with the rear speakers. I bought the AUX cable that allows me to conenct mt Sirius and Zune via the AUX input and love that option. What a difference from listening to Sirius over the built-in FM transmitter! I love it! I plan on upgrading the front and door speakers soon as well.

Eric

You can find pentosin at:

www.ecstuning.com

www.gprparts.com

Its fairly cheap at both of those. I believe the last litre jug cost me around $12or 13. Audi uses 11S in there p/s systems. Our A4 cooks the stuff , so I flush it when I change the oil on it. VW/Audi sells a 12 fl. oz. bottle of it (part# G 002 012) which is easy to pour into the res. for the Boxster. Good luck. :jump:

Is flushing faily easy? I'd like to flush mine.