vizcarra44

Is this car still under warranty? At this point its kind of playing tag your it. If you have access to the factory Piwis tester you can look under the PAS module and see recent alarm events, this will show you what caused the alarm to go off. Like I said, here in the states its usually just the radar sensor, dont know about the euro spec alarm systems. Good luck :P

Hello All, I have come to see that the rear main seal can get sucked in when an AOS goes bad, if you still have this strong vacuum when trying to remove the oil filler cap then it just might be this. Also have seen the spark plug tubes crack and cause a vacuum leak of this degree. Ciao :D

Hi from across the pond, this is a problem with your radar sensor in your center console, very common problem. Ciao B)

Thanks very much Chuck. Sorry for the oversight. It's a 1998 Boxster with 65k miles. I'm located in Queens, New York; Jamaica Estates if you know the area. I'm the second owner. It was dealer serviced in Chicago until I bought in o6 with 60k miles. I still can't figure out why D3 is empty (I guess I might have mistakenly (mis)inserted the fuse the other day when I was inspecting the box, AFTER the top light went on and stayed on.) The last time the fuse box was accessed was over a year ago. Anyway, my concern is about frying something if I put the 30 amp fuse in D3. A buddy of mine suggested that I start out with a 7.5 amp. of a 10 just to see what happens. As for the relays, do I have to take out he driver's seat in order to access inspect the cobntacts on the the Top module? Any other troubleshooting thoughts aor guidance is much appreciated. H Hi, So I take it that your top works ok right? Just the cab top open light stays on? If it does most of the time its just the top lock micro switch. The cab top control relay is up in the left hand kick panel above the fuse panel and is the only black double relay in that location. If your top was not working it would be the relay. Ciao B)

Hi Loren, I'm back in the dealer as a tech again. This code is very common, its a bad electrical connection at the side air bag connectors under the seats, for the 04 m.y. there is a service action campaign that should be covered under warranty. He would have to call into the dealer and ask if he has any outstanding campaigns on his car. Ciao :rolleyes:

Like someone said, check the door jam pins and also check the alarm module under the seat. check the connectors for corrosion and unplug the fuse on the module and reinsert the fuse. Now regarding the checking of the wiring and the motor. I would first connect the connecter to the motor and back probe the following pins: Pin 6 for permanent ground Pin 7 for B+ and pin 3 for a switched ground signal when pushing the window switch for window down. Pin 4 for window up and the ohm meter should show continuity when you push the switch in the up position. Now to physically test the motor use the right type of jumper wires because if you get these jumper wire alligator clips to touch you can fry a good motor. I made a set of jumper leads that were actually female pins that fit snuggly onto the male pins of the motor, but if you cant get these wires just be careful with alligator clips. remember to supply a ground to pin 6 and power to pin 7 and ground pin 3 or 4 to make the motor work in either direction. vizcarra44

Maurice, I also get a P0157 code, which is for the O2 sensor behind the cat, same side, 4 thru 6. I reset all the codes and will see if they come back in the morning. After further investigating my misfire I'm thinking that maybe the VarioCam solenoid might be the culprit. I'm not sure if that is something I can change or not. These codes only appear when I come to a stop and the car idles for a little. I clear them and take it out and drive it and it's OK. If I keep the revs up just even a little I get no CEL. Dave: Thanks for the info. One more thing that I forgot to mention. I remember (about 4 months ago), when I got my first set of CEL codes, my Durametric gave me a code number for the O2 sensor AFTER the cat on cylinders 1-3, but it actually should have given that number for the O2 sensor BEFORE the cat. I contacted Durametric and they confirmed that it was a glitch. They were (and always are) very responsive. I forgot what the actual (wrong) code number was, but I posted it here and Loren gave me the correct information. If I can find that post or code number, I'll repost it here on the off chance that you might run into the same problem (and then replace the wrong O2 sensor). By the way, don't spend the extra money for a "Porsche" O2 sensor, get a Bosch one for a lot less. Bosch is the actual manufacturer for Porsche's O2 sensors, then Porsche puts them in a Porsche box after stamping their numbers on them and then they double the price of the O2 sensor. Also, I got the ones that come with the correct connector because I understand that you cannot solder the leads on an O2 sensor without affecting their operation. Don't know how accurate that is, and some people crimp on the connector wires, but I don't think it's worth the extra hassle. Too many CEL's as it is. I got mine from AutohauszAZ.com for about $136.58, no shipping. Keep us posted. Regards, Maurice. Regards, Maurice. If the downstream o2 sensor is bad it can cause a super rich misfire condition. Check the volts and if it is below 0volts then its bad or wiring. If it switches just as fast as the upstream then the cat converter is gutted by a misfire condition that was caused by the downstream o2 sensor most likely. If the sensor is operating fine and voltage is staying steady above650mv then its ok. Now to determine if you have an internal Misfire such as mechanical problems or external such as injectors or coils, I would look at the Oxygen sensor voltage -upstream voltage. Preferably with a graphing scanner to get a good visual on the applitude and frequency it generates. If the voltage is hanging higher above 650mv then you have a mechanical problem, and if you have an external misfire then you will see low o2 sensor voltages as well as fuel trim in the positive range. If you had a scanner that could deactivate the injectors and coils individually you would be able to nawrrow down this misfire. By the way if you get a flashing Mil light turn your car off cause your going to fry your cat converter. Things can get expensive when you dont have the right Diagnostic scanner. Good Luck Vizcarra44

Are the codes Above limit or Below and what year 996? Regarding checking for a vacuum leak, the best way is to use a professional smoke machine or use Butane kit sold at Home depot with control valve. Just put a vacuum hose on the valve and start spraying around the intake and monitor your upstream oxygen sensor voltages, if there is a vacuum leak you will see the sensor voltage lock at almost 950mv. Do you have any Driveability issues? Vizcarra44

Hello Loren, So you now have the Piwis, it is very hard to get from Porsche unless you are a factory Dealer or a Real Auto Repair shop with to many strings attached. I have seen a Bootleg version of it, but a word to the wise, the Fed,s are starting to look at shops or individuals with counterfit Factory Electronic equipment. Ask me how I know. We are all ears....let me guess you are a Fed ? All types of Counterfeit products in the U.S. are illegal and ruin or economy, dont you think so. There are shops in the L.A. area that have had there counterfeit scan tools confiscated lately.

Hello Loren, So you now have the Piwis, it is very hard to get from Porsche unless you are a factory Dealer or a Real Auto Repair shop with to many strings attached. I have seen a Bootleg version of it, but a word to the wise, the Fed,s are starting to look at shops or individuals with counterfit Factory Electronic equipment. Ask me how I know.

When you replace brake pads there is no need to open the Hydraulic system. If this is the case and you never had issue before then maybe its just coincidence and the Master cylinder is bypassing. If you did open up the hydraulic system then you will need a brake pressure bleeder and a TEXA Scan tool or the factory scan tool to do the Abs bleed Procedure. vizcarra44

Dont guess, Test. I would try a Real Diagnostic Scan Tool not an enthusiasts toy. No real Porsche Tech would use a basic scanner to get realiable data. If you do get the same results you will need a wiring diagram and will need to bust out a good DVOM and start to test for Shorts to Battery and such. Good luck, Vizcarra44 :huh:

You might consider replacing the rear O2 sensors with simulators - basically devices that output a signal indicating that the mixture is correct and the cats are working efficiently without even sampling the exhaust. They basically spoof the computer. Bingo, Thats the trick. Just like what the bike guys do. I used to just short out the signal wire from the O2 sensor going back to the ecu. grounding out the signal the ecu will think he's got a serious lean condition and will richen up your mix to a max of 25% but of course you will not have a smooth idle and such. I guess its a trade off. on the rears you would need to lock the signals above the 650 Mv range so as to fool the Ecu. :rolleyes: vizcarra44

Dear friend, Your Rkat readings indicate that you have a extreme rich condition. So the engine management is trying to lean out the mix. Note if you have a vacuum leak then the Rkat reading will be positive. At this point I believe you should take your baby to a certified Porsche trained Tech. You will not be able to properly diagnose this engine management system with a basic scanner, you will need Bi-directional controls to activate certain engine management components to really pin point your problem. Sincerely, Porsche Master Technician VIZCARRA44 B)

Sounds like I may have issues removing this bolt... Its nice and snug, I just tried to loosen the bolt and it did not feel like it was breaking loose. I fear it will strip. Any suggestions and ideas on removing the bolt or the type of hex I may be looking at? It seems to be a 12 point style hex. I purchased my 996 with 22k when it was 4 yrs old. I asked the dealer if they would provide any history on it, but my request declined. It now has 42k and a burnt clutch, so I took on a DIY project which has proven to be a pain with this odd bolt. dont strip it. Its a wierd Triple square socket. Hazet makes it and in the dealer we all cut the tip off and would weld it to a open box wrench so it would fit just perfect. Go to a dealer a make friends with a tech who is willing to help you out. Otherwise go to Samstag sales on the web and you can get one of these sockets. ;) vizcarra44

I believe that you must also have the RDK module installed and of course the existing wiring for the module. So its not just as easy as enabling Rdk on your cluster. And if you could install Rdk onto your car you would need a factory tester any way to code the RDK. Of course a code reader will not suffice. vizcarra44 ;)

The best advice is to take it to a reputable diagnostic porsche tech. Looks like one of your Upstream O2 sensors is locked on the lean side and its coresponding downstream is also on the lean side which typically indicates a bad cat converter. The data logging you have is really worthless, what you need to do is use a Dvom and monitor the voltages---force a rich and lean condition to see if the O2 sensors respond properly, switch rate from rich to lean on a good sensor is less than 100 ms. So thats pretty fast. If you cant take it to a tech, perform a hard reset and see if codes return. vizcarra44 :P

Unfortunately that is the way it is with aftermarket power mod add on's. Unless you have them dyno your car first without Giac and after to see results, well then I guess its just a gamble. :huh: vizcarra44

I have tried it on the Porsche's and it is not accurate. For real diagnostics it is not realiable data. As for the activations/setting and coding---------Beware, we frYed a couple of Dme,s trying it. Vag-Com is great for what it was designed for----THE VAG CARS. :huh: VIZCARRA44

I have seen problems in the past with the wiring going to the tank pressure sensor being chewed up by rats, causing the Evap canister shutoff valve to not open so as to vent when fueling, usually you would also have a problem fueling the car. The tank pressure sensor is under the battery access plate. vizcarra44

If swapping the sensors doesnt cause a code now on that bank, I would look at the purge control valve. This is a common problem, its essentially a vacuum leak at the wrong time causing a lean condition and rough idle. vizcarra44

do we have an update? First off, If your going to take it to get fixed, make sure he is a technician not just a parts changer, things can get expensive if its not diagnosed properly. The Tech should first analyze the dme data and look for the tell tale signs of rich or lean condition, for lean condition I would then procede to look for vacuum leak, oil filler cap as Chris said, and If you dont have a smoke machine, use propane around the intake, oil separator ect. and look at the o2 signals for rich reading, high voltage close to .800 1.0 volts. If no leak then most likely it is your Maf. By the way to test an O2 sensor to see if it is Biased Lean all you have to do is create a rich and lean condition and see voltage transitions, usaully with O-scope, transition time should be less than 200 milliseconds. if no transition then you have a dead o2 sensor. The tech should do a hard reset after erasing codes to reset the adaptation values back to 0.00 vizcarra44 are there any updates? I have the same problems and no idea what to do anymore. I already replaced the MAF, oil separator incl. J-Tube, Air- Check valve, but my Boxster is still stuttering and black smoke is coming out of the exhaust at higher rpms and at idle speed. Here are my fault codes: 27 OXS sensing range 1, Cyl 1-3, P1123 or P1124 34 OXS sensing range 2, Cyl 4-6, P1129 or P1130 10 OXS Sensor before cat cyl 1-3, P0130, 0134, 0131, 0132 * 18 OXS Sensor before cat cyl 4-6, P0150, 0154, 0151, 0152 * 26 OXS sensing range 2, cyl 1-3. * 55 Misfire Cyl 6 emission related, P1318 53 Misfire Cyl 4 emission related, P1316 * 54 Misfire Cyl 5 emission related, P1317 * 62 Misfire Cyl 5 emission related, P1319 * You really have spent some serious money trying to repair this car. I suggest you find yourself someone who truley understands how the engine management system works and is a Diagnostic tech/troubleshooter. It is always better to test than guessing.

Yes according to bulletin 1A/00 you will have to reprogram the dme, you will need a factory scan tool and Ipas code for the reprogram. vizcarra44

From my experience usually it is either the tank venting valve or the wiring is damaged by rats, this is usually chewed up under the battery on the harness going to the tank pressure sensor. But it also could be that Tsb on the fuel pump lines. I believe you have some checking to do. Good luck.

Well the carbon buildup can cause this issue, just clean it and then when you turn key on, dont start and dont step on throttle, let e-throttle adapt for about 1 minute then switch off ignition for 10 seconds, then just drive it, see what happens. Otherwise maybe the stuff you installed is causing the problem, such as K&N filter. vizcarra44