vizcarra44

P1486 DMTL – Tank Leakage Diagnostics Module

Possible fault causes

- Solenoid hydraulic valve faulty (open circuit)

- Open circuit in the activation line to the solenoid hydraulic valve

- Open circuit in the power supply line to the solenoid hydraulic valve

- DME control module faulty

Hello,

I recently purchased a 2000 Boxster with tiptronic. The fuel gauge never goes to full upon fill-up. It does however,seem accurtae when fuel is low- the low fuel light comes on. I don't know if this is a fuel gauge problem or sending unit problem. I have the instrument cluster apart to apply white background ccovers. Any suggestions as to the gauge no showing correctly?

Ed

Hi all,

I have been having two problems with my 987 and I hope you guys may have some ideas on where to start diagnosing.

1. The car idles rough on inclines. It idles perfectly on level ground but when is stopped at either on up slope or down slope, the idling is not happy. I am stumped.

2. The ignition switch. It takes a few jiggling counterclockwise or taking out and putting in again for the car to fire up. Sometimes the steering wheel lock doesn't release but sometimes it does and it still doesn't fire up. After a few tries, then the 987 starts. The dealer said 987 ignition switch is different from 986 and said the 986 switch problem doesn't affect it. They kept saying change out the car battery first. However, I never have a slow crank issue but simply nothing is happening except electrics on when ignition misbehave. And they mention the ignition switch failure should throw a code inside computer which I kind of doubt....

I hope to get some ideas from fellow 987ers. thanks

W

HI...

Do not have any Boxsters. And I don't have an idea about #1. On #2, did they say to change the car battery or the Key battery? Sometimes if the key battery ( a small watch battery) gets weak, it can case starting problems due to the transponder setup that the car reads when the key is used. May be worth checking. Just a thought

DC

The dealer mechanic was referring to the car battery. The key remote so far has been operating perfectly so I doubt the battery is weak. However, I'll change it to see if there's an improvement.

Um... I think Vizcarra is thinking of the 9x6 series cars. I do not recall a TSB or Workshop Campaign for 9x7 series cars

Not to say it could not happen but there were issues (covered in TSBs) in the early 9x6 series cars that could cause this problem.

Maybe someone else can confirm which car??? I'll check it out too. TKS!!

The DVD drive could have a dirty lense or it could be the gimball mounts are getting tired., this would cause data read errors resulting in the errors you see. I know Cd changers with the same problem can be refurbished. A quick spin with a DVD lens cleaner may also help. The PCM acts the timer and sequencer so if its a MOST issue it could be expensive...

Thanks, Paul, and thanks to your brother, too. My kit is a VF-Engineering kit, which is totally different.

The fuel injectors in my kit, are simply larger replacements for the stock ones, not a 7th injector, as perhaps is in your bro's kit.

CATTMAN

Hi,

The weather is finally improving, so flipt the top today (997 Cs cab)!

When I closed it again I noticed the my right rear quarter window did not close completely.

Looked at it and noticed that the rubber seal 'got 'flipped' by the rear window. When it closes it slides along the roof seal, but where two ends of the rubber meet, the rubber flippes. Do I need to replace the seal?

Regards, frank

Thanks for your reply Paul, when they changed the sensor they purged the coolant system and put new coolant through the whole thing, so it should be something else rather than that.

I'll post a new topic with the error codes, thanks again,

Sam

Will update next time I fill up. Tks!!

Read other posts here on cleaning the throttle body.

I hve a 2006 C4S and can't find the TPM. Are all cars equipped or can I assume that mine may not have it.

Sorry, TPMS was an option.

Check your options list for I482 Tire Pressure Monitoring System.

Sometimes you get funny faults when you try to lock the car before the door is closed. It was the same way on the 9x6 and 9x7-1 series cars.

Don't know about the PDK fault haven't run into that one yet.

Thanks Loren! That sure was quick. You must have a beeper tied into the posts on this site. Indeed I have tried locking the doors with the remote when a door has not been closed. I believe I got a beep when that happened. Can live with the PAS fault code, but because the PDK may not have experienced all the possible user stimuli to date, I just hate the idea of finding myself stranded in the middle of Arizona. According to Durametric, resetting the faults will not clear a fault that has not been dealt with. If this PDK fault is a fluke, then resetting all faults should not affect anything and at worst I would still get the registered fault which would likely lead to a visit to a dealer.

Just Curious. I have replaced coolant pipes, thermostat,and waterpump. When at idle for any length of time, temperature guage rises from 180 (center position) to right of center about 210 degrees. When moving again with airflow needle goes back down to 180. Is this normal. I already had the coolant pipe dump and had to replace those. I want to ensure that i wont run into anymore coolant problems.

Sounds like the cooling system has an air pocket. If you dont have the AirLift bleeding kit, start car up cold and have someone keep revs at around 4000 rpms and start adding distilled water until the t-stat opens around the 180 mark, then put cap back on and let off the high rpms and drive hard, rev it a couple of times and that should do it for you.

Vizcarra44 :rolleyes:

I recently 'upgraded' from my '01 996 Cabrio to an '06 Carrera S (woo hoo!). I had noticed right after I took it that when it started, it cranked slowly - at times seeming like it may not start...very similar, if not the same, as when you have a battery that's about to die, or a starter about to go. For the first few days I put my battery on a tender to see if it made a difference...it did not. I took the car to Dutch Treat, a great local independent shop who's been taking care of my 996 for the past 3 years. He tested the battery, which tested just fine, and said it was the starter. As the car is still under warranty, I took it to Porsche. Long story short - they said that the car tested within spec and, while they admitted it cranked slow and unusual, I was told that, basically, the warranty issue is a pass/fail issue and since it passed, they would not do anything. So, I have no choice but to keep driving it, waiting for the day (that I believe will come) where it doesn't turn over.

I was wondering if anyone else has this problem and what, if anything, was done?

Thanks!

The problem needs to be properly diagnosed using the voltage drop test method. Its true that the starter alternator cable does go bad, but it can also be a voltage drop somewhere else in the B+ circuit up to the battery. I suggest taking it to Callas Rennsport, they got the factory scanner and all the right tools. The warranty policy with porsche regarding batteries is that if you dont put 6K in mileage per year the battery will not be covered. Regarding the starter, this is 100% not the problem, this is from my experience with these issues.

vizcarra44

Porsche's are known to have faulty electronics.

Sorry, I can not agree with that. Porsche does not make any of their own audio or NAV equipment - but then again maybe that is the problem.

Wow,

I'd like to see who could replace the amp and do the coding and programing from start to finish in 10 minutes. Highly unlikely.

There are numerous TSB's on the Pcm issues, most likely a software update available for this issue. For an accurate diagnosis you will need the Piwis tester to begin with.

I have a C4S with PDK and I love it! It is my daily driver and has about 4500 miles on it after about 8 weeks. I've noticed on several occasions recently when driving in regular mode and stopped or at a slow roll the car won't immediately go when I press the accelerator. It seems to hesitate a second or two before the transmission engages. If I am headed up a slope the car will actually roll backward before the transmission engages. I'm starting to become a bit hesitant to pull out into traffic or to turn left across traffic coming toward me. I've looked for a dipstick to check the transmission fluid level but apparently this is not something that Porsche wants the end user to do.

Has anyone else had a similar experience with their PDK transmission?

It's the nature of this manual-matic trans, its basically a manual tranny but with electronics to control the shift points. I have seen this in the shop with almost all these PDk's. It's not a hardware problem, depending how you drive it, it will adapt and learn your driving style. I have noticed that if the car is driven in an agressive manner the tranny's will usually shift better. There is a calibration that is possible with the tester but I havent seen it make a real difference. That being said, it looks to be software related, I assume if enough clients complain, then Porsche might do something about it.

Regards

Fault codes are:

1. 
   

153

62

63

66

150

152

155

151

154

13

5

14

4

39

How does the wiring connector to the coils look? Melted, usually the fuse for dme or ignition blows, check your fuses. Does car start up at least? If you do have a blown fuse, you may have either a wiring issue or bad Dme caused by shorted coil taking out one or more drivers. :huh:

I guess for as nasty as it looks whats really the issue here? It seems that with the fuel being directly injected to the cylinders, there should be no issues with the carbon sucking up fuel from the air fuel mixture as it goes into the intake causing driveability problems. What kind of problems do the higher mileage audi DFI engines run into?

This carbon buildup is a problem with any DFI engine, the Air flow is getting distrubed as it goes by the valves, the DFI engine needs the air to come in at a certain angle and is important during stratified injection. I just saw today an audi with same problem, the audi guys are keeping busy with this issue. I have also seen this on very low mileage cayenne's as well. The valves are like heat sinks when the engine is turned off, the oil fumes in the intake are collecting on the valves.

The only solution is preventive maintenance, there is a service that inducts a strong mist of induction cleaner at idle that will help keep the valves clean and the intake. Looks like when these cars go out of warranty, there are going to be some high repair bills if this preventive maint is not done. Just an opinion from a Porsche Miester Tech. :unsure:

2005 Carrera. The outside right (passenger) mirror is set to dip when reversing. For the past year or so, the mirror intermittently doesn't return to normal when shifting from reverse to drive (it's a tip). Dealer has ordered a replacement mirror motor. When it doesn't return to normal, if I toggle the mirror adjustment control side from right to middle, and then back to right, the mirror usually moves back to where it should be. Anything else to have checked at the same time? Car has about 300 miles left before it passes 50K miles on the warranty.

The problem is not the mirror motor, it is either the passenger or drivers door module, usually a computer reset "handover" with Piwis tester will fix this.

Does the offer still stand?

Joost

Im back in the dealer :clapping:

How may I help you.

Vizcarra44 :D

I previously posted about my Tiptronic gearchange being slightly jerky and sometimes its as if the ignition is not momentarily retarded during the change. Although no CEL present, on the durametric it picked up one of my O2 sensors was impaired so I changed both and the gearchange is much smoother. Obviously the affected fuel trims were affecting power and the retarding of the ignition during a gearchange. I would like to know if anyone has any information on the short term and long term fuel trims at idle so that I can see if my MAF is working at optimum state. Also what should the load be at idle which should indicate the state of the MAF. If not I might clean it or replace it. I've read the threads on cleaning it but some have advised against it in case it gets damaged. At least with the parameters I can see what the engine is doing before I do anything. My car now has no recorded codes but I've had others where the O2 sensor and MAF have been dodgy but still working enough for a CEL not to light. I live in UK where the ECU is less sensitive to emission issues than USA i.e less likely to light the CEL initially.

In the U.S. the mass sensor value should be around 17 to 19 max on the Kg/hr at idle, your Oxygen sensing Lambda value should be around .98 to 1.05 and your Rkats should be no more than 2% positive or negative, if your reading short and long term values on your tester, then short should not pass 10% positve or neg and likewise for long term.

Vizcarra44

I can run a diagnostic with the fields you need to compare and send it to you, but I have a 3.4 996, so it won't be an exact match.

I would like to see some live data if possible. I gently strap my open laptop, facing me, with the passenger seat belt and run the Durametric cord up and over the steering wheel column. I click start/stop only when parked in my garage.

Hi,

The idle values for your Maf should be 14 to 16 kg/hr, if any higer then either your Maf is messed up or running too rich due to lots of possible causes. If your values are below 14 kg/hr then you have vacuum leak most likely. Look at my posts that have references for specs.

Vizcarra44 ;)

Hello all,

First of all, to echo another poster, BEWARE trying to update your PCM yourself, you can create a mess.

That said, I have a mid 2005 US 997 carrera S cabrio with navi and bose that I recently purchased used from a dealer in AZ. This car is still under factory warranty.

I tried yesterday to update my PCM 2.1 with the the Porsche MMI update CDs (1&2) that I downloaded from the internet along with an updated navigation DVD (997.642.257.05) that I ebayed. I did for two reasons, 1, to enable MP3 playback in the CD unit, 2, to get the latest maps and POI.

I inserted the MMI updated CD1 into the CD drive (not the changer or DVD navi unit) and started the process. After a few minutes the system appeared locked up while checking the disk and so I stupidly hit the eject button. This was a huge mistake.

The system ejected the CD and then did not return to the main screen, I did not take notes on what exactly was on the screen, however it seemed that the status said OK, so I assumed this was not an issue. I reinserted the CD thinking perhaps it would pick up where it left off (by this time I assumed it was still working and not in fact locked up). The system did not move further. I turned the car on and off and attempted to eject the CD, no luck. Now, the system gives me a message after a few moments (most likely after scanning the MOST ring) telling me the amp, CD changer and AMP are not available.

I have tried to push 148, I removed the fuse and replaced after a few minutes, however I still cannot get the CD to eject.

Based on the screenshots I took of the system post update (attached) and a lot of research that I should have done before this and not after, I surmise that I was at Level A and had I permitted the update to proceed would have been updated to level B.

My question to this list is whether there is anything I can do at home, or whether this is going to have to go to the dealer at this time. I am hoping that I have not bricked my entire PCM system. Being a techno-geek, I assumed updating a Porsche would be as trouble free as patching some software on a phone or a PC, I was very wrong.

Thanks and really enjoy this board!

- nick in sf

Hi, try holding the eject button down for a lond time and it should eventually eject the cd, try it with the key off first.

Regards,

Vizcarra44

I also see that your system is base 1.0 which is not even level A. You tried to install a newer nav disc that belongs only in Pcm 2.1 with SW versions 4.0 or 4.1

What needed to be done was install the update disc 000.043.205.46.004 which will put you at 2.1 SW version Level A

Then you need the newest kit 997.044.901.51 which will update you to level B. This kit comes with a couple of discs. The whole procedure must be done with care and patience. Look at the TSB 9110

Good luck

Hello all,

First of all, to echo another poster, BEWARE trying to update your PCM yourself, you can create a mess.

That said, I have a mid 2005 US 997 carrera S cabrio with navi and bose that I recently purchased used from a dealer in AZ. This car is still under factory warranty.

I tried yesterday to update my PCM 2.1 with the the Porsche MMI update CDs (1&2) that I downloaded from the internet along with an updated navigation DVD (997.642.257.05) that I ebayed. I did for two reasons, 1, to enable MP3 playback in the CD unit, 2, to get the latest maps and POI.

I inserted the MMI updated CD1 into the CD drive (not the changer or DVD navi unit) and started the process. After a few minutes the system appeared locked up while checking the disk and so I stupidly hit the eject button. This was a huge mistake.

The system ejected the CD and then did not return to the main screen, I did not take notes on what exactly was on the screen, however it seemed that the status said OK, so I assumed this was not an issue. I reinserted the CD thinking perhaps it would pick up where it left off (by this time I assumed it was still working and not in fact locked up). The system did not move further. I turned the car on and off and attempted to eject the CD, no luck. Now, the system gives me a message after a few moments (most likely after scanning the MOST ring) telling me the amp, CD changer and AMP are not available.

I have tried to push 148, I removed the fuse and replaced after a few minutes, however I still cannot get the CD to eject.

Based on the screenshots I took of the system post update (attached) and a lot of research that I should have done before this and not after, I surmise that I was at Level A and had I permitted the update to proceed would have been updated to level B.

My question to this list is whether there is anything I can do at home, or whether this is going to have to go to the dealer at this time. I am hoping that I have not bricked my entire PCM system. Being a techno-geek, I assumed updating a Porsche would be as trouble free as patching some software on a phone or a PC, I was very wrong.

Thanks and really enjoy this board!

- nick in sf

Hi, try holding the eject button down for a lond time and it should eventually eject the cd, try it with the key off first.

Regards,

Vizcarra44