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xflyboyx

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Everything posted by xflyboyx

  1. as Loren mentioned on earlier post the quantity is 9.5 liters if transmission is empty. type : ESSO LT 71141 ( my experience is goldish in color ) how many types you can use with ZF transmission : jury still out and for a long time Porsche Dealer : $18/liter last time I paid and you have to take your own container or they sell fluid in a 20 liter container. VW dealer : part # G052162A2 (sold in quarts) $16-$19 differtnial fluid : manual suggest oil type: Hypoid transmisson oil, Burmah-Oil, SAF-AG 4/1016 fill capacity: approx. 0.8 Liter (check for TSB might have been change to 0.9 Liter as Loren mentioned) can't remember what I paid (Dealer) for it but somewhere around $30 (I hope I'm mistaken) if you changing the filter (recommended) as well with the gasket around $35-$45 hope all goes well, I'm interested in what you're going to do with the old one, PM if you will
  2. removing differential does not require you to take out the center bolt. after separating the drive shaft from the differential and also separating the left side drive shaft from transmission, you will be able to see the center bolts, again you don't have to remove the center at all to remove the differential take a look at the pix below be prepared to have a pan under the differential to capture the diff. fluid note that you have to take the left side first because its is attached to the diff. as you know for the left side have a pan handy to capture transmission fluid. to take the left shaft out , all you have to do is remove the 3 bolts behind the flange and pull gently. hope this will help you
  3. just like other members mentioned , you have to take the t/c with transmission you have to lock (if you will) the t/c to the transmission when backing up the transmission look at the pix and see the rod that is holding the t/c , purpose of rod is to hold the t/c and make sure that holes are aligned with the flex plate no you do not need a special tool but be very careful during assembly not to drop any bolt otherwise if you cannot not get it out , you have to remove the transmission again
  4. based on the pix provided, IMHO the likelihood of a leak from the cooler is remote, seems more like a brownish color than a transmission fluid color. there would 2 possible leaks from the cooler as you know , either coolant or transmission fluid.
  5. Actually that is the differential Oil, which have a very distinctive odor, and brownish in color. Definitley not a CV Boot issue. Before you start any work, I would clean the area first, drive it and recheck. DIY is possible there are 2 scenarios that the leak is coming from 1. drive shaft flange seal ( easy to do ) 2. differential O-Ring ( little bit complicated )
  6. then I would think that you should be able to use the transmission, the manual I have mention the A86/00 and A86/05 as you can see its just probably a model # but I'm sure everything is the same. the only thing I can think of different is the programming. and I would try both the original ecu and the one you can get with transmission. PM me on what you're going to do with old transmission. I you need any other help PM as well most importantly do further research take a look at this link from Pelican parts for more info transmission info by model & year
  7. have you verified that it is a transmission fluid vs engine oil , you know it could be IMS or RMS issue. If it is transmission fluid. Lets hope its only the seal. IMHO bushing and front pump damage its not easy to do unless you drive very had with lots of gear changes, specially down shifts, my experience is I used to downshift to help in breaking, even to first gear from I believe 35 mph or so, that might had something to do with spining out the bushing, you never know. using 3.2 S transmssion, can you get the green tag information and verify if it is an A86/?? transmission.
  8. since the bushing got a hold of the t/c hub, somehow t/c would not come out. I believe the lock washer had something to do with it being stuck, I tried everything less aggressive to pull it out to no avail. What is going on with your Transmission? would help if you have some pix
  9. Hello Roy, yes I did end up replacing the front pump, it was damaged beyond repair. got it from zf dealer in Burlinggame California. Go to ZF website and look for dealers like Ericksson or try this link to locate a dealer in Canada ZF Transmission Dealers had to have the TC rebuilt, try Ericksson first for all parts needed, compare that with JAGGI IMPORT EXPORT JAGGI these guys can sell you the needed parts, not as a whole kit, some dealers only sell the whole kit which IMHO waste of money. As far as the Part List and that is from memory, starting from the outside in ( sorry you have to work on looking up the part #s (critical) 1. Bell Housing screews with washers ( qty 9 screws & 9 washers ) very important. do not use the old ones 2. Oil pan gasket and filter 3. Transmission Fluid ( the most expensive of all the parts, you do need around 9 qts ) 4. one you remove the valvebody (be gentle with it) the wire harness have 2 white washers. 5. differential Oil 6. 5 or 6 cylinderical rubber hoses about 1.5-2" in length ( you have to move out ) 7. once you get the Front Pump housing out of transmisson there is a BIG O-RING ( at least 11" in diameter or so ) 8. Front Pump 9. Coolant ( you will lose some ) 10. time, time, and more time 11. and most importantly PATIENCE
  10. Good Day all, PCA newsletter dated March 29,2011 have this article about IMS Upgrade & Retrofit Kits see the link IMS , or see that attched PDF file IMS Upgrade & Retrofit Kits.pdf
  11. Thanks wvicary, My last transmission fix was around june of last year ( it an annual event, unfortunately) I have done alot of troubleshooting between the tiptronic control module harness connector and transmission connector, so I disconnected transmission connector and reconnected many time. weird thing as I was taking car for short distances to test things with durametric, when I put the car back in garage idling, transmission did not respond to reverse or D or M modes, nothing happens, no movement (no faults present), then I shut the engine off and restart immediatley, magically I have reverse and other gears as if nothing wrong with transmission. I know I might have a problem with AOS, I have seen blue smoke after overnight engine start, but not often enough to warrant taking AOS out, because blue smoke problem started right after I had an oil change, and I think I put little bit extra oil. I have the top of engine exposed and engine does not sound normal when giving little jabs of gas, a weird sound comes from the AOS tube that connects AOS to the intake manifold. more like a vacum leak is the best I can describe it. I'm still in the process of troubleshooting, I'll double check the transmission connector again, just to make sure it is sitting right. thanks again wvicary. any more ideas is greatly appreciated. and thank you again Loren for the PM.
  12. Thanks Loren, I'm not clear on one thing " the coupling or brake is faulty" if possible to expand on this item please btw, I did clear all faults and none came back, I'm doing all the possible checks I can do for now.
  13. Good Day all, MY03 Tiptronic DME7.8 Tiptronic Saga continues, in the past I had problems with leaks, did a replacement of front pump rebuild t/c, but this time it is something new faults given by Durametric I did all the troubleshooting for faults indicated, everything checks out. Q: what extra diagnosis does PST2 and PIWIS can do over Durametric to narrow down the problem of tranny? any help is greatly appreciated
  14. Good day all, Sunday memorial weekend, while I was on a ride to Nevada City, Ca., coolant warning came on hwy 49 in Auburn Ca., did not think much of it other than need to add more coolant, then a gentelman behind me was flashing his lights, I though to my self is it someone I know, so I slowed down and the gentleman said " better watch your temperature gage, you lost a lot of coolant back there", so I stopped at a shopping center to investigate, now I can smell the burning coolant and can see a trail of coolant behind me, as soon as I stopped, I can see smoke on the right rear side, took a look under the car and coolant was leaking all over the parking lot in buckets (exaggerating), to make a long story short I was thinking it had to be a hose failure. AAA came to resuce (what was suppose to be a 20 min wait turned out to be one hour and a half wait) and towed car home. After exposing engine from top and front and jacked up the car, no hose failure in site (very odd I thought), so the next step would be getting distilled water to find out where the leak is, got 4 gallons of distilled water and 1.5 gallon later found where the failure is. #12 (Disc Valve) notice the separation of the black piece from white piece that is where the coolant was leaking from. this is the new Disc Valve so next step is to figure out how to get the darn thing out, considering the limited access from top of engine, got one factory clamp out of the way (from top of engine access) then disconnect water line supply #6 from ATF cooler from under car. then take everything out the top engine access. so if you have a chance to inspect the valve I would do so asap, or even better replace it. everything back to normal for now.
  15. Can you expand on what kind of failure you have with coolant!!! my the ecu for transmission got wet somehow and that might be the problem as well disregarding the display does the car drive normal?
  16. First things first, what is wrong with your transmission? answering this quesiton then you can determine if you want a replacement or repair. Answer to your 2nd question First, Absolutely, I have done it about 3 times already (due to shop not rebuliding the torque converter correctly, see my posts to get some ideas). The only thing, it is a long process and unlike other cars you have to take the back end of the car to gain access to the transmission. I usually take my time in disassembly and really take my time in assembly to make sure things done right the first time. and then there is the disassembly of transmission itself for whatever problem it might have, and thats where the fun and frustration come into play. you have to be very patient. some members have removed their transmissions to do IMS/RMS replacement. so do your research and get some ideas. to answer your 2nd question see attached pix to get some idea I have MY03 and it has the A8605-150 ZF 5-19FL (not sure what the 150 stands for) so I'm not really sure 100% of the technicality of using other model transmissions into yours but I don't see why not except for what you need to change whether mechanically or electronically (as far as ECU). If you want to go that route I would take a look at the difference mechnically then deal with the ecu afterwards. Just to give you some insight of using transmissions with different engines if you go to Jay Leno garage website and look up ECOJET CAR, they are using a corvette transmission to work with a Helicopter jet engine. so using transmission from model to another model IMHO should not be that difficult but you have to do your research. Good luck
  17. LOL. You young guys of the cell phone texting Red Bull era! In my day tut meant King Tutankhamun. :D Funny you say "LOL" that puts you in the same era , just kidding :renntech:
  18. This might help!!! (see attached file) P0735_tiptronic.pdf
  19. Robert, It is a messy job and you have to take the right side drive shaft to replace the o-ring. So I would keep it simple for now, clean the area and see where exactly the leak is coming from before you start the job. 2 place leak could be coming from either the filler plug or the o-ring. If it is the o-ring, you have to be very careful taking the differential out. It is heavy and whatever you do, don't drop it. By the way, there is a torque sequence when you put the differential back together. Good Luck
  20. Robert It could be the differential oil and it is brown in color and has distinctive odor and mostly on the right side of transmission assuming you have a tip
  21. Hi All, MY03 Boxster 2.7L Tiptronic G40 Transmission Type A8605 (ZF 5HP19FL) DME7.8 Torque converter been rebuild the 1st time after a bushing spun out. Torque converter rebulid was not perfect when it came to the weld of the hub to the body, started a small leak that was not noticable at all until transmission lost enough ATF to cause a relatively big leak that lead to taking transmission out and rebuild the Torque Converter again. the 2nd rebulid I suspect and I need to verify is that the Hub is about 2 mm shorter that what it suppose to be I backup my claim for the reason below see pix connected to each other looks like this so if you look at the arrow the dark area represents how much engagement between the tc hub and front pump gear and it suppose to be all the way as shown in the 2nd pix lower right next pix shows how front pump and tc hub mated the gap did something that created the uneven wear of bushing see pix below hub length according to the website below is suppose to be 44.65mm see pix http://www.powerglides.com/part_finder.php...p;show_only_sc= Anyone by any chance have or can direct me to get more technical information about the Torque Converter specs. I took the converter to a local shop called PDQ transmission parts that does rebulid TC all they did is open the TC, change whatever needs to be changed inside (not sure if they really did) smooth out the hub and stamp the tc with ZF 68 and paint TC with black paint, they could not take the old paint off (san jose job paint). that cost me $300.00. but when I took the TC to san jose shop they indicated that it is a ZF 75 and written by a marker as ZF 75. PDQ claims that these codes are not unanimous between rebuliders anyone rebulider can coded anyway they want to. I have not contacted PDQ yet since I found out about front pump gear. what code is given by ZF to the torque converter (ZF 75 vs ZF 68 .. etc) , are these codes really given by ZF !!! any help is greatly appreciated.. would like to fix the problem once and for all. :renntech:
  22. cj, as I understand it 996 has same engine as 986 (if I'm not mistaken) so the following procedure from 986 shop manual 1. Remove the clutch pressure plate, including the drive plate ’ 30 50 19 Removing and installing clutch . 2. Remove drive plate for the torque converter or the double−mass flywheel (DMF). Fasten special tool toothed segment 9538/1 for countering on the right crankcase half (cylinder bank 1 − 3) with an M10 x 50 screw. Undo and remove drive plate or DMF. 3. Drain engine oil. After a dripping time of 20 minutes, insert oil drain plug with new sealing ring and tighten. Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.) 4. Turn the engine on the crankshaft belt pulley clockwise until the bore 1 TDC (top dead centre) in the belt pulley is aligned with the fixing bore on the crankcase. Position or fix with special tool fixing pins 9595/1 −see figure− . Use short fixing pin. 5. Remove camshaft closure caps from cylinder bank 1 − 3. The closure cap of cylinder bank 1 − 3 is located on the flywheel side. Drive small screwdriver into centre of the closure cap and lever off the cap. 6. Check basic camshaft adjustment −arrow− . If the position is not correct, remove the dowel pin and turn the crankshaft a further 360° in clockwise direction. Fix belt pulley again with fixing pin. View from the flywheel side 7. Turn primary chain tensioner out of the crankcase, cylinder bank 4 − 6. 8. Turn secondary chain tensioner out of the cylinder head 1− 3. 9. Undo intermediate shaft flange. Unscrew the three fastening screws M6 x 20 on the intermediate−shaft flange. Undo the M8 x 1 lock nut with the socket wrench 9110 −see figure− . At the same time, counter with a suitable screwdriver in the slotted threaded pin. 10. Position and align special tool retaining device 9642 −see figures− . Tensioning the retaining device: 11. Carefully press the intermediate shaft off, for instance with two angle screwdrivers −see figure− . Proceed carefully so as not to damage the sealing surfaces.
  23. CJ I have MY03 Tiptronic when one bank ( as in your example bank 1 alignment pix) notice that the semi circular cutout should be on top, bank 2 alignment should look like bank 1 except the semi circular cutout in on the bottom ( #2 pix of bank 2 is not the correct position of camshafts when bank 1 ). to keep it simple semi circular cutout is the key they have to be on top to make that bank TDC ( which is either cyl.#1 for bank 1 or cyl#4 for bank 2 ) just curious where did you get #2 pix (from what procedure) it is an odd place for camshafts to be in. remember that boxster engines have different ways to time camshafts and uses different tools as well depending on the MY?? (I checked the old and the new manuals I have as of MY03) simple check to do is take the green plugs that cover the ends of camshafts for both banks and look at the semi circular cutout once your at TDC mark and that will give you a clue
  24. quick update I left everything as is after disassembly for a long time till I figure out the cause of the problem, to no avail until it hit me one day, the cause was right there in front of my eyes. take a look at the pix below after disassembly Fluid level left in T/C after disassembly afew hours later leaving the T/C in the same spot same position after cleaning the fluid a couple times just to confirm, fluid comes back again. the only logical conclusion is there is a leak in the weld after i had it remanufactured and made sense since after I had the first problem and after assembly I noticed a film of oil all over the bottom of the tranny but did not think much of it, and since it kept leaking obviously upto the point (6 months later) damaged the hub most likely due to less fluid = more heat = hub expanding = touching (tight fit) the front pump bushing = scoring = more area for fluid to leak from easily as noticable drops on the ground. So I called the shop that rebuilt the T/C and will take it sometime this week to san jose to pressure test and rebuilt the T/C again
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