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Just wondering if anyone has experienced a light dull knocking noise from their front end at low / manouvering type speeds.

The car has recently been at the dealers for a different fault... but on the complimentary health check they spotted that the n/s/f shock absorber bump stop is broken, would this cause the noise? They didn't give me a price for this... wondered if its something i can do myself?

Just to let everyone know, the cars been at the dealership for two days, and the fault is the 'lift solenoid' on bank 1. I've agreed for them to replace it at a cost of four hundred pounds, just glad it's not more serious and i'll get the car back before Xmas, happy days!

Thanks for that, hoped it might be the other way round... Calling Porsche Colchester in the morning, to book in diagnosis.

Hi

Just for the avoidance of doubt, cylinders 1,2 and 3 are on the left hand side of the vehicle, when viewed from the back?

I've just looked at the coils on the other side and they don't look good, plastic casing hanging off on one of them, which is making me wonder if I'm on the right bank!

Yep, I've considered that. Fitted a new MAF today it's made absolutely no difference, gutted.

Sprayed brake cleaner around that bank inside compartment, engine speed increased slightly I think there's an air leak. Gonna have to take it in $$$$$.

I snapped mine also..corroded, when I removed the bumper to change out condensers. Luckily the head light was loose, I managed to waggle the light to remove it... The bar is easily replaced...local dealer had them on the shelf, guess its another common fail.

Reseting the throttle body hasn't worked, unfortunately.... didn't attempt cleaning it as its absolutely freezing outside .

Still waiting for the new MAF to get delivered.

I'm just hoping its nothing to do with vario cams, although misfires all on one bank is it bit suspicious. Anyone have any experience of failures on that mechanism?

Hi

I'll try the reset on the throttle body, thanks for that... hopefully the new MAF will come tomorrow also.

I disconnected the ground lead from the battery this afternoon and left it for ten minutes. When i drove the car again soon after it was fine for 10 miles then brought up the same codes again, random miss fire, cylinder 1,2 and 3 miss fire detected. , also filled up 97 grade fuel.

It has been very wet here and now its freezing wondering if its weather related.

Stupidly i didn't remove the plug, I had enough trouble with the coil! The plugs were new 7K miles ago. I thought it unlikely that all the plugs or coils on one bank would fail at once?

Mine failed at 103k miles, awkward to do but not that bad if you've got axle stands and a desent high lift jack, bleeding can be an issue, I vented mine from the top of the radiators in the end. Wear gloves also OAT stings like hell if you get it on you!

Hi

The alternator brushes disintegrated at 105k miles, so I bought another whole alternator unit from eBay, fitted no problem checked the voltage at the battery it was above 14v. The battery was then flat the following morning so I bought another battery Bosch S4 figured the alternator cooked a cell before throwing the towel in.

Since these changes the check engine light is coming on and the car idles roughly when I comes off the choke or returning to idle from revving, in fact it drops lower than normal idle speed before reluctantly returning to 750, also getting rotten egg smells from exhaust gases.

Plugged in a code reader it's giving P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303 and occasionally P1090.

The car is very thirsty now , 18mpg . It seems to be running ok at medium to high revs though?

I've replaced no1 coil pack, no change still getting missfire fault code on that cylinder. I've cleaned the maf with electrical contact spray, to no real avail, although possible slight improvement.

I've ordered another new maf, clutching at straws now any ideas? I work on the rigs so the car gets left for fortnight unused, every time I come home and go to use it something else has broken on it!

Hi, I've a 2005 C2 with 105k miles, had quite a few issues just lately. Scavenge/ vac pump cover rotted through, rear spring randomly snapped whilst not being used, water pump, alternator, battery and suspected MAF which is a current problem. The Car has full dealer history.

It doesn't get used much due to me working away a lot I don't think this helps.

Hi, Just wondering if anyone has had a similar experience.

I have a 99 986, i have recentley fitted cup turbo alloys(with brand new tyres) requiring the 18mm spacrers, everything has been fine until the other day i noticed that the inside edge on each tyre is wearing heavily, even more so on the back. I didn't have this problem with the standard wheels, do I need to get the suspension geometry checked by the dealer? The car is booked in next week to get the roof working again anyway.

Hi again, finally had some dry weather which allowed me to continue troubleshooting, I've managed to disconnect the pushrods and get the clamshell up to take a look at the motor and sensor.

I bridged the motor connection and it ran fine. the microswitch also appears to be working correctly (tested with multimeter).

I 've came up against a brick wall again now, just wondering if i should buy a brand new relay from porsche in case the secondhand one i bought is a dud. :

Also has anyone got a wiring diagram for the roof system?

Thanks for the microswithch test sheet, I have worked through the list o.k as far as #8 where I have not got the required, 'battery voltage'. The same is true of #9 on list.

These two failed readings must point to a problem with the convertible top compartment lid microswitch.

Just need to work out how to get at it now.

There must be a way of manually opening the roof surely?

Cheers

Hi all,

I have acquired a roof fault over the last four months, started if as an intermittent fault. I have a '99 2.5ltr 986. The roof is now completely stuck and will not move at all.

The handbrake dash light is working correctly as is the microswitch on the roof latch as the windows are dropping a couple of inches.

I have checked the two fuses both good

I have removed the hood control relay and whacked it a few times still nothing

I have acquired another hood relay still no good

I have removed the dashboard hood switch and tested it with a multi meter, seems o.k also.

Where do I go from here must be wiring or motor fault? How do I gain access to the motor whilst the hood is up/stuck?

cheers in advance :clapping: :clapping: