itzbob46

The 2001 has frunk and rear trunk release switches by the driver's door. These are backlit so you can find 'em in the dark. The lights are LEDs so they don't take any power to speak of.

My problem is that unless the car is locked/alarmed, the backlights don't go off! If this happens overnight it won't harm the batt. But it killed my 6 yr old batt after being ON for a week or two without the car running.

I just changed the old batt and the problem remains. I can take the cover off and disconnect the LEDs I suppose, but I'd rather fix it right.

Any suggestions? One person already suggested that the ignoition switch may be the culprit. I just don't want to start changing parts all ofthe place until I get some more ideas. Sounds to me that there is a faulty timer relay somewhere.

Thanks......

Well, when the engine would not crank over I started looking around and noted that the frunk/trunk indicators were doing more than taking their time going off. That night I let them stay on all night (only 4 LEDs) and they were on in the morning.

No problem re the battery. As Loren said, it was on borrowed time and was easy to kill.

So, still looking for clues. At least I know the lights are off when the car is locked. I'm thinking about a faulty timer/relay. But which and where. Will research my Bentley's wiring diags tomorrow.

The 2001 has frunk and rear trunk release switches by the driver's door. These are backlit so you can find 'em in the dark. The lights are LEDs so they don't take any power to speak of.

My problem is that unless the car is locked/alarmed, the backlights don't go off! If this happens overnight it won't harm the batt. But it killed my 6 yr old batt after being ON for a week or two without the car running.

I just changed the old batt and the problem remains. I can take the cover off and disconnect the LEDs I suppose, but I'd rather fix it right.

Any suggestions? One person already suggested that the ignoition switch may be the culprit. I just don't want to start changing parts all ofthe place until I get some more ideas. Sounds to me that there is a faulty timer relay somewhere.

Thanks......

No Bill, that's not how it's operating...... The switch (which is now uninstalled) has no detent, or in and out position as you describe. When you push it in the white movable portion it merely travels in and out to the same position with no clicks whatsoever. It's amazing that this type of switch that is probably operated 100,000 times in quality control testing can fail after being used maybe 5 times in its life. But that's the way it goes. It's a $67 part new but there is one on the internet right now used for $25. But there is no rush to replace it since the car is garaged for the winter.

Thanks for checking it out.

After removing and reinstalling my gauge pod the 4-way flasher switch turns the flashers on, but won't turn them off.

Please check your 986 for me......When the hazard flasher button is depressed, does it "click"?

Does it stay somewhat depressed or something until you press it again to turn the flasher off?

Mine just pushes in, the lights go on, and it returns to the exact same position. No click. Then the lights will go off while you are depressing/holding the switch, but they won't switch off when the switch is released.

Thanks for the input. I took the gauge pod off and found one of the 3 large harness connectors not properly seated.

It's FIXED....Time for a well deserved beer.

Bob

It's my fault for sure, but some experienced ideas would be helpful. I just changed the sun damaged dashboard on my 986. I started the car and the entire gauge pod is dead. No indicator lights, no turn signals, no gauges movement, etc.

I gave up for the evening and to collect my thoughts about what could have been forgotten during reassembly. There are approx 30 conductors within 3 major connectors attached to the back of the gauge pod.....no way are there 30 bad connections! Nor are there 3 bad plastic connector installations. It has to be something like a fuse or ground.

The batt was disconnected during the entire project so how could I burn out a fuse? But I'll check it tomorrow.

Right now I'm at a loss and it looks like I have to remove the pod and investigate, but I really don't know where to begin.

Since this could be an IMS bearing issue, I'd take these clippings to your favorite P-car aftermarket shop for their opinion. I'd stop using the car until this was resolved. Applause is in order for your investigative attitude towards your car.

Daryl I was having the same issues with my '99 Boxster and its OEM suspension and I decided to install the ROW M030 Sport suspension and my Boxster now feels and handles like a new car. Although it is discussed as a stiffer suspension the new Bilsteins and sport springs absorb all of the road pounding instead of transmitting it up through the seat as the old suspension did. I was wondering if I would be able to keep the car as my 63 year old back was really having problems but now I'll be driving it for a lot more years. I also replaced the Pirelli's that were OEM on it with Sumitomo HTR ZIII's and they have also made a difference in ride quality and less noise. Handling with the combo is superb.

Thanks for those comments. My M030 suspension is being installed today and it's good to hear that you are satisfied with it. My back is 64 yrs old.

Bob

Have you done it? What did you buy? What did it cost? How does it perform now?

My car is really starting to feel sloppy. I've been loosing confidence in the car at expressway speeds, and on curves at 65-75 mph I find minivans and pickup cruising by while I feel threatened by the speed and handling. An expert took a drive in it with me and said that I likely need a set of shocks considering 9+ yrs wear (43,000 mi), and realignment.

Your thoughts?

Bob

I bought a 3 yr aftermarket warranty so I could sleep nights. Now I stay awake worrying about the warranty's worth!!! Kidding, but for around $1400 I do rest better. If I was having a clutch done, I'd do the IMS as well. Like the other writers said, it doesn't happen to a large % of us.

Enjoy your car.

Bob

I bought my 2003 986 S with a Vertex HID kit. The right headlight started to go out when I came to a stop and required me to turn the headlights off and on and fixed the problem. Now the right headlight won't turn on. It tries to fire but stays off. What's the simplest fix? I want to remove the kit and replace with OEM bulbs. How hard is that to to? I am looking for reliability instead of the HID look.

Please help.

Shouldn't be hard to do. I'm assuming that you know how to remove the headlight units with the provided tool. By the way, they can be a tedious PITA to put back in! There will be a hold (maybe 1" dia.) cut into the rear removable cover on the headinght unit. you'll need to come up with a way to patch it. Hopefully, the person that installed these HIDs was not a butcher.

It should be a direct unplug operation and the installation of a new pair of halogen blubs. Pull out one of the headlight units and get a good look at it before worrying too much more.

These HIDs don't work out for everyone. Mine were a nightmare, although I liked the light! I put the Halogens back in.

I forgot to post earlier that I eventually gave up on the HID kit. Beyond the problems with my alt and oil warning lamps, it started affecting my spoiler! I'd get this thump, thump sound form the spoiler now and then. Yeah...hard to believe that there was a connection to that, but there was.

I gave up. Ripped the thing out and got a rufund. I like the original lighting much better now!!!!! P-cars are very sensitive in their electrical systems I guess.

Glad to hear that others have had success.

Bob

I just replaced this in my 01 c2, You will need to press it out and press in a new one, I had the tranny out anyway. I got a wicked vibration at 3000 whilst decelerating. Pelican parts for $80.00. You might try to rig up some sort of clamp system to press it out while in the car. In the c2, I had access when the tranny was tilted downward.

Good luck

James Greer

You are refering to replacing just the insert of the mount? Right? Isn't it just easier to unbolt the mount and remove it to press in a new resilent core?

Thank you, for your help. How much are you asking on your top, and what color is it?

DITTO!

I recently purchased a 2003 Boxster S. Yesterday, I opened the engine compartment for the first time to check out my air filter. When I pulled out the air filter, I realized it had NEVER been changed. The foam had dry rotted and was clogging up over half of the filter. I didn't have a replacement, so I removed all of the bad foam, blew it all out with an air compressor and reinstalled until the new K&N gets here. From there, I desnorkled it. I then did the exhaust mod where you drill 2 1/2" holes in the inner part of each the exhaust pipes before they exit the muffler.

Wooooohooooooo this thing sounds awesome. Quiet when cruising and mean as h___ when you punch it. I love it.

I'll attach an mp3 for those interested I had an iPhone in my lap to record it.

car.mp3

Here is a photo of the exhaust for anyone interested. There is another hole about 2 inches from that one. You cant see it in the photo. I will probably add a third. I don't want it to sound like a Honda for goodness sakes. ha.

This appears to be an interesting mod (good result, costs nothing). Has anyone learned if it has any neg effect on the exhaust flow etc that can goof up power, etc?? My 2.7 is kinda quiet, but I don't want to take the chance of sounding "honda" or toooo loud either.

There must be some write up on this mod somewhere, but I've been reading this forum (and others) for 2 yrs and this is the first time I've heard of the mod.

Thanks, Bob

Re sensors, if there does not appear to be wear or damage, put 'em on the new pads and see if all is well. I had no problem reusing them.

Re pad change, your car (non-S) should not have dampers. But if these were previously installed as an option, the calipers need to be removed to remove them to get the pad off which are helf by adhesive to the dampers. At that time, you should also replace the mounting bolts.

When I let off the gas and the car goes through 3000 RPM I get a low vibration from behind me. I also have a notchy feeling when trying to shift, especially between 1st to 2nd, it can stick significantly but not always. I will be replacing the engine mount in September, so will let everyone know if those two problems get better.

This is precicely what I would have said!!!!!!! Are you driving MY car??

Mine really does not stick on the shift, but first to second feels really newbie unless the RPM is over 4K. The vibration is on occasion but is a scarey feeling. The clutch engagement is kinda rough when the car is cold, but I've attributed that to the surfaces perhaps working better when hot (maybe??).!.!.

But now the original question remains. What's normal and what are symptoms of a bad engine mount (or transmission mount). Need input form drivers who have been there/donw that.

Bob

Look for a dark purple or green stain on the bottom and sides side of the mount. That is the fluid that is leaking out of the failed mount. If there is no stain, then the mount has not failed.

But what happens to the car's performance when the mount fails?

I recall that I had a Maxima once with motorized engine mounts that actually counteracted the torque of the engine. They were problems and would burn up. Once failed, I could not tell the difference in the way the car peroformed!!!!! It just smelled like burned rubber! Luckily the car was under warrantee. I know that the Boxster is a different animal, but now that I know there is liquid inside it, it does sound like a problem waiting to happen.......

Bob

I often read forum topics regarding replacing failed engine mounts. Now I'm curious, what are the symptoms of a failed mount?? What problems occur when a mount is failed or just weakened?

Thanks, Bob

You may need to search for radiator repair/replacement to get one of the posted instructions.

On an '01, the original vent grills were silver, but a pretty poor looking silver that didn't stand up well to time. Once out, I used a light gloss black paint made for plastic (find it at Home Depot) and it's been fine. You may like silver and that color is available from the same place.

Bob

That gallery went down a few months ago, I emailed him about it, but nothing happened. You can check out my car it's Ocean Blue (similar to Lapis) and I have a Graphite Grey top.

In that photo the two blues look identical. Car looks great. Do you have a shot with the top UP???

Bob

Take a look at Yoseif's Boxster Gallery. You can select body colour, top colour, interior colour etc. I just tried it and it didn't seem to work but it has in the past (I also just upgraded to IE 8 though), so I can't comment on what pics are there.

http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/gallery/

Thanks, but it doesn't work for me either!

Bob

If anyone has a Space Grey or Graphite Grey fabric top I'd appreciate a photo of your car. I'm trying to decide which is preferable to me. By the way, my car is Lapis Blue, but as long as I see the top, that's good.

Thanks.

Bob

I need to remove and bend the metal rotor shield that is directly behind the rotor. When I turn the vehicle hard left or right the shield is rubbing the rotor. It cannot be bent enough without removing it. Can anyone tell me how to remove it?

Say....what kind of sound do you get from it? I turned a tight steep curve the other day and heard a terrible metallic squeal coming from the rear. Assumed it was a brake, but it has not done it again. Could this be what I'm dealing with???

Bob

Squeal or a roar? I would check your wheel bearings. They can be hard to diagnose sometimes, noise in a tight turn makes me a little suspicious of a bearing.

I really doubt bearing woes..... First it only happened once for 5 sec. Second it was a high pitched squeal, sounding very metallic like something made of spring materials or sheet metals may sound. Third, it also sounded very direct, rather than internal.

Ya know, us guys should become physicians the way we dissect a symptom or sound and diagnose diseases of the car bases an 5 sec of exposure to it. I wish my Dr. did as well!!!!!!

I need to remove and bend the metal rotor shield that is directly behind the rotor. When I turn the vehicle hard left or right the shield is rubbing the rotor. It cannot be bent enough without removing it. Can anyone tell me how to remove it?

Say....what kind of sound do you get from it? I turned a tight steep curve the other day and heard a terrible metallic squeal coming from the rear. Assumed it was a brake, but it has not done it again. Could this be what I'm dealing with???

Bob