986fan

Thanks a lot!.......I'll give it a go the first chance I get!

Thanks........I would like to install a single independent switch (in a switched circuit - off when the ignition is off) that would let me light the fogs independently with no other lights turned on.......Just like the aforementioned DRL headlamp hack, but using the fog lights instead.

That's old news......I've done that and that's for the headlights......I want to use the fogs as DRL's.....

What about heat/lens discoloration when using these for fogs (to match my HID converted low beams)........any issues?

Bump.......looking for answers......

I too, would like to do this to match my xenon-upgrade headlamps. Is there a heat/lens discoloration problem using these bulbs? The true xenons burn cooler but what about these?

Actually, manufacturers rust warranties are normally for a complete panel rust through only (hole) ; not the ugly stuff that preceeds it.

That's correct...........265/35-18 on the rear...........

Wow........Deja vue all over again. My brother ordered a new white Boxter in '99 (still has it......less than 5,000 miles on it). He ordered his with the factory hardtop which has only been on the car once. I have an '01 S in white (now with 11,000 miles on it). His car is a brilliant bright white; an "appliance white". When someone asks me what color mine is, I tell them it's a "cue-ball" white, which is the best way I can think of to describe it. Quite a bit of difference.

Looks great Gus!.......I'm glad you got them done. The cut-offs pictured on your garage door are correct and normal. The headlights should not need to be re-aligned.

I put this exact kit in my '01 S this last summer (and am extremely pleased)...........The first time it was a little daunting because of all of the varied components but after doing it once and understanding it, I think I could do another one in about ten minutes other than walking down to the basement to my drill press to drill the holes. 1. Remove the headlamp assy's (I assume that you have done this.......consult your owner's manual). Look for instructions for replacing a headlamp bulb. 2. Pop the back covers off of the headlamp units (simple....and also in the owner's manual insructions). 3. The only mods you are going to have to do involves drilling two holes in each cover. one to fit the large grommet on component #3 (in your excellent picture) and one smaller one for wire #4. (you will need a hole saw to do the best job for the larger hole. There's plenty of wire, just choose the best spots in the cover. 4. You will see the small connections (female 90 degree spades) on the back of the headlamp bulbs (the closest bulbs to you when you look inside the cover.......you want the TOP bulb - the low beam). 5. Unplug the wires and remove the bulb (H7 bulb - held in by small wire clip). 6. Unscrew the protective clear plastic cover on the new bulb and install it; secure the wire clip. 7. Take wire #4 and work the male spades through the small hole that you drilled in the cover (so the spades will be on the inside of the light unit). 8. Plug the male spades into the factory 90 degree female bulb wire connections.......(I then wrapped my secured connections with tape and then took a small plastic tie and tied wire #4 to the bracketry under the bulb so that no pulling on the harness from the outside would disturb the spade connections). NOTE: The polarity is obvious on the supplied red/black harness but the factory harness is a different color. The red goes to the yellow (+ pos) and the black goes to the brown (-neg). 9. Now, thread the wire and connectors from the new bulb harness (#3) through the larger hole that you drilled in the cover, position the grommet, adjust the slack on both wires going through the cover and snap the cover back on. 10. All of the other components remain external to the housing and there is plenty of room for them. They all only plug in one way so you cannot make a misake. 11. I put small plastic ties through the holes of the metal box on component #1 and secured it (them) to some handy pipes or bracketry inside of the fender. the rest of the harness just sits back there behind where the headlamp unit slides in. You will have options here - do as you please. 12. MAKE SURE that the large lower side guide pins on the headlamp housing are in their track when reinstalling the headlamp units. 13. Try them out........they're pretty neat when they fire up with a flicker/flash. The first time you are out at night and come up to an intersection with the white painted reflective lines on the road you will be startled by how brightly illuminated they are! Better than HD TV! 14. Good luck..............Enjoy.........John

I am highly interested in doing this and have an '01 S also........anxious to here any info...........

Calculating the correct size: Example: 265/35 -18 265 is the width in millimeters.......not the tread width per se, but the maximum overall width of the tire when mounted on the median recommended rim width and inflated to the correct operating pressure. This might be at the tread.....or it might be at the sidewall......but it will be the widest part....depends on the tire. 35 is the "aspect ratio".........that is the measurement of the unladen sidewall from the rim to the tread. A 35 aspect ratio is computed by taking 35% of the width number (265 in this case). 18 is, of course, the rim diameter. The formula for overall height is as follows: Width (265) x aspect ratio (35%) x 2 (2 sidewalls in the overall diameter), divided by 25.4 (converts to inches) + the rim diameter (already in inches) = the overall height in inches. For instance, a 205/55-16, a 225/50-16 and a 245/45-16 are all basically the same height but are progressively wider as the first number (the ovarall width) goes up. they stay the same height because the aspect ratio number is coming down as the width goes up. By the same token you could increase the rim diameter without changing the width or the overall diameter simply by factoring in a lower number aspect ratio.

How about some updates here? It's been 9 months since any new information has been posted. 1. GAHH OK now (on the window sealing issue)? Have any more come loose? 2. All still good with Robbins - no issues? 3. Is seam wear occuring? On what brand(s)? 4. Any cable or adjustment problems? 5. Recommendations? 6. Does anyone know a good installer in N.W. Ohio with Porsche experience? Thanks in advance for any input..........

Where are you getting your "recommended pressures" from? Not from the sidewall I hope..... That is the maximum safe pressure for MOUNTING PURPOSES ONLY.......and has nothing to do with using the tires on your vehicle........ Use the pressures from the driver's door jamb sticker or the owner's manual. I add 1 lb in the front and I am happy..........

My '01 S has the factory 18's. I had Continentals and just installed a set of RS01A's. Ride is very good (same with both tires) with no impact harshness.

What do I think?...........I think.......you meant 6 into 2........... :P Pretty impressive for a naturally aspirated piece that was already decently equipped! NICE!..........Are those stainless?..........who makes them?...........how much?

I would definately go with this true zenon headlamp bulb conversion. Only $165.99 delivered. I love mine.........(Thanks 986Jim!). http://www.cqlight.ca/index.php?cPath=32_45

I have seen a lot of CEL's in our service department at work from the excess oil that is sometimes on a K&N filter when removed from the packaging - some of them are dripping with the stuff! This might be desireable on a dirt bike in the desert but is wholly unneccesary of a street car. All it takes is one drop on the MAF in most vehicles to cause a code. I recommend wiping off the excess first......or even washing in light detergent, and then spraying very lightly with oil on the outside only. This usually solves the problem. Maybe that is what happenned here.

I bought and installed the same kit that Jim did (from CQ Light) as soon as I first read this thread. I don't drive that much at night either but the effect is jaw-dropping.....I can't describe how white the light is! It is also very well defined. I am VERY satisfied! What I ended up doing was to do the DRL hack, but instead of just jumping between the fuses, I ran a pair of wires from the fuse clips to a switch (Radio Shack #275-730) that I mounted under the dash at the extreme forward edge.....tight to the LH side of the console. This switch is pretty much invisible if you aren't looking for it but it matches the dash design well anyway. The switch is rated at 25 amp (plenty) and has a nicely finished and easy to mount bracket - very clean. Now I have high-tech DRL's that look like melting light blue ice cubes that I can turn on or off at will.......plus......the world's best working headlamps!

Anybody know a quick hack so I can use my fogs for DRL's? If I can, I might convert them to zenon.

Who sells the intakes?.....typical price?.....how did you "modify" your stock muffler? Does the factory snorkel keep water and dirt out better?.......Is there a downside to removing it? I saw a thread where it said to remove the side grill and just pull on it hard.....is there any danger of pulling some other stuff apart by using this method?

If I de-snorkeled my '02 986S and added a sport exhaust like a B&B......would it be too much or too loud? I miss tha aural sensation of an air-cooled 911. Would this help or am I barking up the wrong tree? Opinions wanted.............

Yup.........It's gone..........

Got 'em in...........work great!