986fan

Fronts: 19x8.5 with 225/35-19 Toyo Proxess (50 mm offset)

Rears: . 19x10 with 265/30-19 Toyo Proxess (47 mm offset)

2001S - No problems of any kind whatsoever.

Question on vents.

My 2nd Moll died (relays clicking, no start if longer than an hour since the charger was removed).

My radio was turning on and off, the rear spoiler went up and the trip meter reset itself to zero!

Got a new Interstate MTP-91 and proceeded to make the swap. Couldn't find the round vent hole in

the new battery but did notice the oval center rear "thingy" exactly like all of the other Johnson controls

manufacturered variants pictured in this thread.

Until I read this here, I only suspected that it was the vent and that some kind of adapter connection

was M.I.A. Good assumption and since I bought it from the parts department in the Chevy-Toyota store

where I work I will be asking them tommorrow morning about the missing vent adapter package. I'm

sure our Interstate guy will produce one immediately.

My question is, when I noticed the oval fitting I didn't look into it with a light but I did poke a pocket

screwdriver into the oval hole - it hit soild. Is there just a small pinhole in there that is the actual vent

(and is it open now?) or is there some sort of knockout plug that I have to open?

Thanks,

John

19's on a 986

I have posted these before and always get railed for "you are not supposed to put 19's on that year of Boxter"

but the outside dimensions of the front and rears (diameter and width) are the same and the rims themselves

are 1/2" wider than the stock 18's.

I've had these Ruf (knockoffs) for two years and they work great. The ride is 95-98% as good as with the stock setup.

The look is unlike any other Boxter and I love it. The quality and finish of these aftermarket rims is above reproach.

I am completely satisfied. Probably the easiest wheels out there to clean also.

Check it out at "Porsches to Oxford" next week and see for yourselves.

Fronts: 19x8.5 with 225/35-19 Toyo Proxess-4 (50 mm offset)

Rears: . 19x10 with 265/30-19 Toyo Proxess-4 (47 mm offset)

Not only does it have 4 spokes, it's on the wrong side of the car!

I have the same thing (2001 S). A couple of times a season I'll start it up (no lights on)

-or- I'll come up to a stoplight and turn the lights on......I'll hear a loud thumping in the

rear and will have to turn the car off and restart it. It's something in the spoiler circuitry

because the next day I'll turn the car off and get out after a sub-40 mph ride and the rear

spoiler will be deployed. I retract the spoiler with the switch on the kick-panel and then

all is well for weeks/months. The spoiler seems to get out of synch with where it actually

is and is trying to retract when it already is - I think that is the thumping noise (Porsche

techs?). Then it deploys on subsequent start-ups before it is supposed to. Manually

positioning with the switch seems to fix it for a while.

That's my opinion on the (our) problem. I've posted this concern before - no responses.

I have a 2001 986 2.7l. I just picked up some near new cup II replicas and want to make sure these will fit.

FR - 235/40/18 81/2Jx18H2 ET52.

RR- 285/30/18 10Jx18H2 ET47.

The offsets look close enough. Here's mine and they fit fine:

Fronts: 19x8.5 with 225/35-19 Toyo Proxess-4 (50 mm offset)

Rears: . 19x10 with 265/30-19 Toyo Proxess-4 (47 mm offset)

New 1984 Audi 4000S Quattro at age 32

New 1985.5 944 at age 33

New 1986 944 Turbo at age 34

Had a BMW 325i here in the middle at age 42

(Very slightly) used 6200 mile 2001 Boxter S at age 53

........a really fast start with little or no wheel spin.

Something tells me that is not his objective.......

225/35-19 and 265/30-19 are the correct sizes for a 986 running 19' wheels.

These make the overall height exactly the same as the original 18's.

The factory used 19" wheels on 987's and they used slightly taller tires

(40 frt and 35 series rear). The stock 986's tires were a size shorter than

on the stock 987.

I have 19 x 8.5 and 19x10 wheels on my 986 with no issues whatsoever.

Last Saturday presented a rare opportunity to have a garage full of Boxters and take some pictures.

My Brother was moving, so he entrusted me with the temporary storage of his 6,033 mile bought-new

1999 986 (the one with the hardtop on it).

After pulling it in the garage beside my white 16,000 mile 2001 S I noticed how little room the two

cars took up (this garage is 24' x 36' deep). I got out the tape measure and then backed both cars out.

Without even moving my tractor, I backed his car in along the wall and cranked it hard. It slotted in right

in front of my workbench with only one 3- point jockey. Then the test - I pulled in my Boxter, no sweat;

then my daily driver Grand Prix. Plenty of room. I must admit I was somewhat astounded as I have lived

here 12 years and never thought to try this before. This means that when my car goes to sleep for the

winter, I can put it in crossways and still get 2 other vehicles inside.

The final piece of the puzzle was when our friend Mark arrived to spend the day with his 20,000 mile Artic

Silver/Blue/Blue 2001 S. the Pontiac went back outside and Mark parked his car inside next to mine.

The weather was beautiful so I grabbed the camera while I had the chance. These 3 cars had never

been together before and since my brother had lived out-of-state we had never seen the white cars

side-by-side at the same time either. The stark contrast between his brilliant white 1999 and my Barritz

White 2001 (cue-ball white, as I call it) is easily visible in these photos.

After about a year my driver's side wouldn't always light first try. Seemed to be getting worse.

I contacted CQ (5000 K kit) and they said to send the components in and they could be tested.

I said I didn't fancy having my car torn apart for a month.

They suggested that I buy a motorcycle kit (one side) and swap out the components.

I asked if everything was the same and they assured me that it was. Wrong - the kit had been

redesigned/improved (better) and none of the plugs were the same. I installed it and it works ok.

I sent the original parts back immediately. CQ gave me a return authorization number and assured

me that I would receive a credit ($92.00).

Now, 2 months later and no refund. I emailed them and have never received a response.

My move (again)?

Now 6 months later and MANY emails. No response whatsoever.

Still nothing (Aug 1, 2010)

I use 987 18" wheels on 1998 986 without issues...........

Thanks, That's all I wanted to know.

Not sure what you want someone to say........

Thanks Loren.

I understand their recommendation.

They probably don't recommend 19's on 2001's either but mine work great.

I guess I would like to hear from anybody that has tried18's on a '97-'99, recommendations notwithstanding.

NOBODY knows????

I understand that something in the suspension was updated with the 2000 model but is there

anything that would keep a friend from bolting on my 2001 18" Turbo Twists to his 1997 model?

The original two problems have not reoccured but I'm taking it in next week to get a new ignition switch installed.

Now I have a new concern. After starting the car cold (only) then turning the foglamps on, and then turning the

headlamps on......as soon as I move the light swight to headlamps (with the fog lamps still on) I immediately get a

very rapid and very loud "thumping" from the trunk area (spoiler?....some relay?). Cyling the ignition switch off and

back on makes it stop and there is nothing you can do to make it repeat until it sits a long time again.

Another ignition switch symptom? Anybody ever had this or heard of it? Ideas/opinions?

I've got a feeling that this is happening because I have an aftermarket HID conversion that pulls too much only when

the fogs are already on and you are trying to light the HID's for the first time of the day (cold).

But.....What is the thumping? Are the headlight and/or foglight relay(s) in the LH side of the rear trunk?

Thanks,

John

Ok......Thanks.

Wow!.....only 14k out of the ignition switch (with no heavy key bundle hanging on it)?

Battery is fairly new OEM from Porsche dealer and is super strong.

Anybody know what or why?

Number one:

About a month ago I started my Boxter S 3.2 cold in the garage and I noticed that the battery

light stayed on. I shut it off and restarted - no light........until today.

After driving for about 20 mins, I stopped at a carryout. When I came out and started it the

engine the light stayed on again. At a red light I shut it off and restarted. No light since.

Number two:

After a short spirited drive last weekend (I'm sure above 75 mph) I pulled in the garage and

got out. The rear spoiler was fully extended. I know where the overide switch is and I have never

touched it before.

I cycled the spoiler up and down with the switch, then with the spoiler down I restarted the car

and drove down the street to my brother's house. I turned around and came back home, never

going over 30 mph. The spoiler was up again. I cycled it up and down again and it has been ok

ever since. Did it loose it's initialization? It seems alright now.

What gives?.....Any ideas?

Thanks

After about a year my driver's side wouldn't always light first try. Seemed to be getting worse.

I contacted CQ (5000 K kit) and they said to send the components in and they could be tested.

I said I didn't fancy having my car torn apart for a month.

They suggested that I buy a motorcycle kit (one side) and swap out the components.

I asked if everything was the same and they assured me that it was. Wrong - the kit had been

redesigned/improved (better) and none of the plugs were the same. I installed it and it works ok.

I sent the original parts back immediately. CQ gave me a return authorization number and assured

me that I would receive a credit ($92.00).

Now, 2 months later and no refund. I emailed them and have never received a response.

My move (again)?

Now 6 months later and MANY emails. No response whatsoever.

Keeping the diameter the same is the key.

Example:

265/35-18 Take 265mm (the width) x the .35 aspect ratio (the sidewalls) x 2, divided by 25.4 (converts to inches) + the rim diameter = tire diameter

Currently, and for some time now, we have been using Castrol Syntec 10W-40.

Thank you......Next time, Castrol it is............

You can continue to believe in Porsche’s vaunted "approved oil list" if you like; we will continue to trust the data we collect...........

I respect the work you have done here. What brand would you recommend?

Initial falloff is always signifigantly greater than subsequent testing shows (normal).

TBN is only one aspect to consider but I do trust Porsche. Does the 5W-40 test different?

Purely acedemic for me as my Mobil-1 gets changed once a year (3,000 - 4,000 miles) anyway.

This is one of those deals where everyone must make their own choice.

More info at this link:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php

Porsche specs 0W-40, 5W-40 and 5W-50. I agree with not using 0W...........

What is wrong with 0W?

I have been using it for 3 years with no ill effects......and no consumption.

It should flow better on cold start-up which is where most wear occurs.

I am (currently) a certified GM and Toyota service manager (also previously Honda and Nissan).

I think the "0" stands for zero problems.

I'm sold on it!

I want to be able to turn lights off at times while the engine is on...........

Best of both worlds - I bought a switch at Radio Shack (P/N 275-730). Hold the bracket up to the

bottom of the dash, as far forward as it will go and hard against the driver's side of the console.

Drill 2 very small pilot holes through the places provided on the bracket. Install and tighten the

2 supplied self-tapping screws. Snap the switch in the bracket.

This is very sturdy, very out-of-the-way and matches the other dash switchgear well. The switch

has a positive feel and is rated at 25 amps (way much!). there are large male spades on the back.

Run your DRL hack wire through the switch........You can then allow the DRL hack to function, or return to

regular mode "at the flip of a switch".

I had to get down pretty low to take these pictures. You don't even normally see the front of the switch (you

would have to be looking for it), let alone the back or the wiring. Still, it's easy to slide your hand down and hit

the button (rocker). Your feet or knees won't even get within 8" of it.