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GranburyChuck

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Everything posted by GranburyChuck

  1. Okay, I have been reading the posts about the AOS and am a little confused. I have a 2000 C2 tip and was looking for the source of a possible vacuum leak. Decided to take the oil filler cap off and found some significant suction. Also, the car idle became a little rough. Reading posts suggests there should be anywhere from no vacuum to a slight vacuum (not sure how slight "slight" is). I do notice some oil accumulation on the outside of the intake plenum on the drivers side. Also, I have cleaned the throttle body and it was fairly dirty and could see some oily residue inside the plenum. I don't really notice smoke on start up except when it is very cold out (thought that was condensation). Is there a good and correct way to test the AOS?
  2. Well, I have cleaned the throttle body multiple times. Last time, about 3000 miles ago, it looked essentially spotless. No dirt on the rag. I have used Techron and other cleaners, no difference there. When I replaced the plugs I changed out the connectors from the coil packs to the plugs. I don't recall looking very closely at the coil packs though. I wonder if there is a way to test those?
  3. Thanks, but that is for a '99 (non e-gas) car. Mine is e-gas so I don't have one.
  4. Alright, 2000 C2 tip with 110 k miles on it. Daily driver runs very well. Pulling up to a stoplight idle is fine for first ~20 seconds. Then there is a slight stumble, maybe 200 RPM. Comes back smooth for about 10 seconds, then stumble, then recover. Never goes below 600 on the Tach. I have read the posts about cleaning the throttle body. Done that twice, no difference. Attempted to clean down past the TB because I could see a little gunk in the runners. Also cleaned MAF more than one time, no improvement. No codes at all. Has thrown codes but they were fixed and not related. Any other thoughts on this. Car has always done this since I had it (got it with 70k). Have changed plugs, fuel filter about 85k, no difference. I have a durametric scanner but seems like when I feel like running tests I get an error message and it shuts down. New O2 sensors about 10k miles ago. Thoughts on what else to do? Not a big issue but I sure don't want to lead to a stall at a stoplight.
  5. I have tried to read all I can on the topic of suspension and wanted to throw out my scenario and see what comes back. I have a 2000 C2 Tiptronic with 110 k miles. The car came with standard suspension but the PO replaced the springs with Eibach lowering springs from Champion Motorsport. The car was a little too low for the road hazards I deal with, suspension was fairly harsh, and I would get spring binding (clanking over bumps). That was how it was when I bought the car with 70k miles. I replaced the springs with US M030. Ride height is better for my roads but still seems a little harsh compared to new Cayman's I have driven as loaners. When I replaced the springs I noticed one of the rear shocks leaking. So I probably need new shock and struts anyway. I just wonder if new shocks will make any difference over sharp impact bumps. I assume that if the shock is gone then there is no compression damping and thus the only resistance to the impact is the spring. If I replace the shock there will be spring plus shock acting (do I have that right)? I would like better control on cornering but this is my daily driver and I very rarely track the car. So suspension compromise for the street is unacceptable. I have thought about PSS9s or even JIC (little pricey but more adjustment). However, the JIC set up uses pillow ball mounts which I assume will translate pothole impacts into the car. PSS9s are nice but I doubt I would ever need the adjustment. I probably wouldn't bother lowering the car much anyway (leave at highest setting which I assume is already somewhat lowered compared to standard). So that leaves me with 3 options from Porsche, standard, US M030, and ROW M030. Again, lowering is not a prime concern. I know I will get a lot of slaps for this but "comfort", then followed by cornering precision. I accept that even with standard suspension this car is way beyond my limits. Should I just go with stock suspension all around (maybe change the sways?). Or how about the ROW M030? Are there any old farts like me out there who realize that I am not really a race driver and this car can be the perfect compromise for all I need it to do? Anyone try the ROW M030 and think. "too much"? Let me characterize harshness as loud bang's in the cabin over potholes. Sound proofing might improve that. Seems like the newer cars are quieter than my 9 year old car. I appreciate all "positive" responses.
  6. I want to remove the inner door panel to work on the inside of the door on my 996. Does anyone know if I need to disconnet the battery when unplugging the airbag connector on the door panel?
  7. I got the same response for a very slight stumble like you mention. The TB was cleaned about 4 months ago but I went to do it again. It was spotless. I cleaned it some more anyway. I also spray cleaned the MAF. Neither made a difference. I have had no codes by my Durametric scanner. I had the car at the dealer for another problem and mentioned this. They ran codes, found none, but mentioned that I should use gas without ethanol. Prior to the hurricanes last year (I live in Texas) I could get 100% gas. Now all the stations carry ethanol containing gas. The dealer said that I should drop from premium to mid-grade as the ethanol has less of an affect or there is less. She indicated that at a training meeting they were told this by Porsche. So I will try that at the next fill up. Still, I don't know if that is it. Seems that service technicians can't diagnose any problem without a sensor saying what's up.
  8. I had the same issue on my 2000 model with 90k miles. Alternator charged okay but bearing was howling. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't promise how long it would last. I didn't want to end up on the side of the road so I just changed it out. Took me about 4 hours of wrangling to work it out. Got a Bosch reman unit from Vertex Auto for 250.
  9. I had the Falkens on my 2000 C2 coupe. I also use my car as a daily driver and don't rip it up. They exhibited typical inner tire wear and started to howl. I got Discount Tire to exchange them for another brand since they had only been on 9000 miles.
  10. I read your link Anderson. So the PSS10s absorb sharp impacts better and still give good cornering control? Seems like a great compromise.
  11. I know it sounds crazy seeing as the cars are not that old but here me out. Several times when I have taken my 2000 996 to the dealer for repairs they put me into a Cayman. Of course it is a new car and in great condition. However, driving it just seems so much more solid than my car. I do have very few little squeaks but nothing major. It just seems that my car slams over moderate bumps whereas the Cayman goes "bump" with a muted thud sound. I can't imagine that there is that much sound deading in the new car that makes this difference. Of course I have 18" wheels while the Cayman had 17". Is this strictly attributed to new suspension? I am currently investigating replacing my stock old shocks (110k miles) with either new Bilstein HD or PSS9. It is apparent to me that a car can have good suspension response (meaning absorb the bump and not slam in the car) and still provide responsive driving (again consider the Cayman). Besides supension I am considering adding Dynamat or sound deadening to make the daily drive less instrusive (I don't track the car so not concerned about a little weight gain, the car that is)(mine is a Tiptronic by the way). I guess there are many other bushing that will give over time. Thoughts anyone?
  12. Hey Waterboy, nice option. Instead of two jack I wonder if you could get on of those really shallow ones up that far under the car. I currently jack from one side and I really don't like it leaning so far onto the side. I have started jacking the rear of the car under one of the suspension mounts. Still it teeters as it is going up. Kind of scary.
  13. I've got a 2000 C2 with 110k miles on it. The steering rack has shown some leak on the right side for some time. I've just been adding fluid to it. Today I jacked the car up on that side and when grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 position I could rock the wheel back and forth just slightly. If I push a little more then I could see the steering wheel moving. When I grab it at 12 and 6 I don't get any rock. So I assume it is the steering rack or tie rods since I think I have ruled out the wheel bearing. With the rack continually leaking I assume something is letting go. Has anyone replaced one of these before? I have seen that Sunset sells a reman unit. Not sure if I have the time to do this though as it is my daily driver. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Renntech
  14. Hey Philip interested to hear how your Roock converison is going. How much?
  15. Diego, I had to use some force to open mine up first time I cleaned it. I was wondering if the idle control piece connected to the throttle body allows some air flow through it and it needs to be cleaned. I bought the gasket for both the TB and the idle control piece. I have already changed out the plugs about 20k miles ago.
  16. Thanks Orient, saw that one, guess it is egas. Just wondering if anyone has taken it off and seen more of a difference.
  17. I have searched and found DIY on how to clean a non-egas throttle body so I was wondering if anyone has done this on an egas car? I did this about 6 months ago by holding the throttle plate open and spraying cleaner down the TB and wiping with a clean lint free rag. I still have a slight stumble at idle so I was going to take the TB all the way off. I bought the rubber gasket (TB to manifold) and a gasket for the idle control valve (paper gasket). Has anyone removed that part and cleaned it? Thanks in advance
  18. Didn't realize the cost was that high. However, considering I could at best get $15k for my car and a used Turbo is ~$45k. That is a huge difference. Plus I would be back with a car that I would have to sort out all of the little issues once again. If I could, I would turbo. Also, easier to justify a new engine than a new car to the wife.
  19. Did a little searching and haven't found what I want so here goes. I have a 2000 996 C2 Tip. First car I have ever kept more than 1 year. Been doing most of my own maintenance and little mods. Bug is getting me though for a little more power. I would like a Turbo but the price on even a used one is huge for me. My car has 110k miles on it and runs quite well. I was thinking of a supercharger mod but I don't think anyone makes one for a Tiptronic and it may be too much power for the transmission. Since I dont run up at 5000 RPMs much I thought more low end torque would be best. To me that usually means higher displacment or a roots type supercharger. For higher displacement I start to wonder about engine conversions (don't apeal to me for the not so plug and play issues). I come across Jake Raby's engine upgrades for a new engine. I know my engine may last a lot longer (I baby with regular oil changes and other maintenance) or could blow tomorrow. This car is my daily driver by the way and only car. So I don't know how much a complete engine would be from him but it seems he has some upgrades for the 3.4 that might provide reasonable increase in low end torque. According to Jake, also better reliability. Anyone got hands on experience with his M96 engines? Thoughts?
  20. Hey Je know what you mean by the heat, north Texas (FW here). How did you change the coolant? Did you get the machine to suck it through? I've read that is the best method.
  21. Kbull, Did you replace all of the hoses or just the ones at the bottom of the engine? The ones up by the cooling fans?
  22. Just wondering what everyone thought about replacing the coolant hoses on the 996? I have a 2000 model with 109k miles. Looking under the engine some of the hoses look a little bit ragged. Also, the coolant could be replaced too I guess even though Porsche says it is lifetime fluid. I kind of doubt anything is lifetime, at least for the dealer that is up after your warranty is up.
  23. That's what I did last time. Even cleaned down into the intake runners a little. Guess I can look at it again. If I take the throttle body off I need a gasket correct?
  24. I did not remove the throttle body last time I only cleaned it while it was on the car. Do I need to remove it?
  25. Okay, I already searched and couldn't find what I thought might help so I am throwing this out. I have a 2000 C2 tiptronic with 108k miles on it. Car runs great except for a very minor stumble while idling, in gear, at a stoplight. Idle is about 630 RPM, I think. Car will be idling fine then a slight stumble, doesnt drop more than maybe 50 to 100 rpm then picks right back up. Just the kind of thing that concerns me while waiting at a light. Don't want the car to stall right there you know. I have replaced the fuel filter at about 80k miles along with the spark plug and connectors. I don't have a CEL and have not had any codes come up for this type of problem. I had some codes for the O2 sensors but I replaced those about 8000 miles ago. I've had this problem since I bought this car with 70k miles. I cleaned the throttle body although it wasn't very dirty. I could see some oily goo further down the intake tract that I could barely get to (must be more further down). Assume it is not related to the air\oil separator since it has been a very long time since I cleaned the throttle body (~20k miles) and no total failure. I did notice some slight cracking of the rubber boot on the intake manifold (after throttle body) but not sure it is through the rubber to the inside (thus leading to an air leak after the MAF). Is there a way to check that. I know the old way was to spray carb cleaner all around joints or suspected leaks and listen for change in the rpms. Anything else I should look for? I do have a Durametric scanner. Something I can do there? Since the unit didn't come with a manual I haven't used it for much other than clearing codes.
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