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About adigati

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    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1983 911SC (for sale)
  1. Spence, First off read my comments regarding the water in the above post! IN CASE ANYONE IS INTERESTED........MINE IS ON EBAY AT ABOUT $100 OFF! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...E:IT&ih=005 Thanks
  2. I borrowed a torque wrench from a friend who has a shop. The local Auto parts rents tools not sure if they had one that goes that high but worth a try.
  3. My car is a stock 1999 Carrera C2 manual with 62,000 miles on it recently purchased by me. I had this horrible noise, began at 50 mph, got quieter at 75+. Jacked the car up and started to spin tires before I bought a new set of tires because of noise. Whew, right front making a grinding sound, pulled the pads back, noise still there. Spun the other side (LF) no noise.......must be the bearing. I did a lot of research on Renntech regarding replacement of the bearing my self. This is what I did and how. Sir Tools, for $284.66 including shipping I bought a B90-P2, B90-3 and a B90-3J (800-845-4542). Big heavy box showed up. For $20 each a new front wheel bearing arrived. I was now ready to go. Keep in mind my previous Porsche mechanical experience was with a 911SC, it had tapered wheel bearings (normal ones?). Make sure you loosen the center high torque nut with the wheel still on the ground (it took a nice long pipe). After jacking up the car and removing wheel, caliper and brake disk you are ready to begin. I had to stare at the tools for a little while to figure out just how they worked, the directions supplied are good, just generic. However there was no mention of having to slide the wheel carrier down on the strut. You must do this other wise you cannot get the speed sensor out and the tools will not work!! Its easy to do, just loosen the pinch bolt and remove the stabilizer link at the bottom of the wheel carrier and slide it forward. Then your foot will be able to push the carrier down far enough to remove the sensor and fit the Sir Tools stuff! A small piece of Aluminum welding rod will keep the carrier from sliding back up after you push it down (don't worry it will be obvious). The Sir Tools pieces pulled off the hub no problem (it made one hell of a noise as it pulled it off). The reason my bearing failed at 60k I surmise, was because at one time or another, the right front wheel was under water, most likely parked at a deep curb during a rainstorm, that is my guess as there is NO other water damage anywhere on the car, even under the panels. The carrier and inside of nut and stuff was all rusty (old rust at least a year or two). When the hub finally came off it was clear!! Unfortunately, the front half of the bearing came out with the hub! The rest of the bearing came out nicely with the Sir Tools stuff, no heat nothing, just perfectly!!! I took the hub to a press and 30 seconds later the rest of the bearing was gone. It took a couple of hours to clean everything of rust. Once everything was clean I took the new bearing and the old hub and tossed them in the freezer (after the wife went to bed of course). In the morning with clean parts and a open mind. I started assembling. New frozen bearing slid right in with the tool, no heat, no BS! All the other parts did EXACTLY the same no worries no hassles, those tools worked wonderfully!!!! Torque everything properly as per the manual. I torqued the center nut to 150lbs and then lowered the car to the ground to finish the 340lbs of torque. Life is good. The car is silent again, it is simply AMAZING how much noise that bearing made. Start to finish about 4.5 hours. When and if I need to do the other one, I'm confident it will be a 2 hour job, now that I've done it. Don't be afraid, with the proper tools it was a cinch and the tools and the bearing were far less than half of what the dealer wanted! Plus no alignment, removing the whole strut from the car, press plates and more BS. The other three wheels will be free when the time comes.
  4. Update After 500 miles, my dash turned into a Christmas tree. CEL's every day for a week. Disregard 1st post above. Unit now removed from car and all is good. Maybe it would work good for a track car...hmmm. Anybody wants this thing send me a PM with a reasonable offer..........other wise its Ebay next week. Way too much BS for a little noise. Funny how it took 500 miles to cause trouble, oh well, live and learn to trust Renntech.
  5. Well I bought one of those kits a few weeks ago and finally installed it over last weekend. So far I'm happy. I really like the sound it makes. It is totally quiet like stock, but put your foot in it around 4,000 rpm and it makes this lovely sound, the sound is worth it! Performance wise, well I'm not a good judge here. The car was nuts fast before I put it on and SEEMS stronger now, I haven't dyno'd nor do I plan to, seat of the pants.....again I think it was worth it! Can't say 23 hp, but you can feel it. Couple of things had me worried; everybody's check engine light complaints and water ingestion. I have also heard about rattles and poor fitting. Take your time to install. I assembled the whole airbox in my house in the comfort of air conditioning (I live in the gateway to hell). Taking my sweet time. I got a real good understanding of how it mounts, why and with what modifications are needed. The instructions are a little confusing if you have never done this before! I suspect MANY if not all problems are related to a quick shoddy install. I'll bet many folks did not drill a hole in their car to mount it properly. If you don't, I can guarantee it will rattle, possibly rub on a pulley or even move. When I finally was putting it in the car, I must have put it in and taken it out 5 times to make sure everything lined up and was rigid. Once it is in the car, you will have to tighten the expando grommets or it will rattle and move (not stated in the instructions). The bracket that you have to drill a hole for is critical to it not moving. Also make sure that the air intake hose is properly centered in its receptacle on the engine lid, that will also rattle. USE the Drycharger that comes with the kit and I added NO additional oil to the filter! I highly suggest you disconnect your battery WITHOUT the 9 volt battery gizmo, so the computer will clear (have radio code ready). I also suggest you clean the ICV and the MAF sensor and the throttle body..........your right there anyway and a cause of many CEL. I also changed my polyrib belt while all that was out (5 min deal). DON"T forget to turn the MAF sensor around and flip the plug (instructions cover this well)! The car runs much better than before (ICV,MAF and TB cleaning) is tons smoother and idles like a new car. Probably NOT because of the cold air intake, but **** it sounds good! I'll probably get a ticket trying to hear the sweet sound. It hasn't rained in a very long time in hell (or the gateway) so I'll have to update on the water ingestion. I did put a clean towel over the air cleaner, before I washed the car (engine lid closed) and the towel was soaked after washing, but the filter was dry, could possibly be an issue in heavy downpour. Hope that helps, all in all I like it and would buy it again. Oh 300 miles and NO CEL yet!
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