savowood

SPEC http://www.specclutch.com/ It's stronger and has a much lighter feel than the stock clutch.

Did you get any dyno results? I'm considering doing this to my car. I have the 3.4 in there and I think I have too much back pressure. I'd like to be able to do this so it's quiet on the street, then when I'm at an autocross event or at the track, I can open it up. -Michael

I'd stay away from drilled rotors unless you just want the look. For performance, they're not going to be any better, and possibly worse. Personally, I like the PowerSlot rotors. I've cracked two sets of drilled rotors and had to replace them before they were done from a thickness standpoint. After the rotors, put some good pads in there. EBC Yellowstuff will give you amazing cold stopping power, but will also allow you to get extremely high levels of heat and still retain the stopping power. You'd probably also want to go with better brake fluid. Castrol SRF is great, but insanely expensive. You can get something like GS610 for about the same as Ate Typ 200 or Ate Super Blue, and it has a higher temperature rating very close to SRF. Brakes are probably the most bang for your buck in performance mods. After that, suspension and tires. It really depends on how crazy you want to get with it. If you drive your car on the street and not at all on the track, then you can get a set of Eibach springs and some Bilstein HD dampers. If you want to track it, you might consider the PSS9. Add to that some nice R compound tires and you'll have a very quick car. If you want to move from "very" quick to "what the hell did you do to that" quick, you can look at a motor swap. I put a 3.4 from a 996 in mine. I love the better fuel economy, and the 50% boost in HP doesn't hurt on the track. -Michael

By DC, I assume you mean the DC area. I've been to many different shops in the area, and in my opinion, Taylor Chapman at German Auto Group is the best there is. 7520 Backlick Road Springfield, VA 22150 Phone: 703.440.6777 It's only about 2 minutes outside the beltway off 95. It's very easy to get there. -Michael

The best P-car mechanic I've ever found, and I've had them in Germany and the DC area, is Taylor Chapman. He has a shop down off Backlick Rd. It's a bit out of the way for me as I live in Falls Church and work in Reston, but I'll never take my car to any other person. I've had my car at just about every shop (dealer or independent) in the area, and Taylor is head and shoulders above the rest in his knowledge, honesty, fairness, and general niceness. He's an incredibly nice guy, and he knows more about making the most out of a Porsche than anyone I've ever met. I feel good about recommending him to anyone looking for a person to work on their car. In my opinion, you won't find anyone better. He's at: German Auto Group 7520 Backlick Rd. Springfield, VA 22150 Phone: 703.440.6777 -Michael

Although your dealer will charge you 10k for a new motor, and that's not the labor to do the work involved, you can get a motor for a lot less. I bought a 3.4 to put in my 2000 Boxster for about 8k. It's true the motors are basically swaps for major repairs. They get sent back to the factory and new engineers are trained on rebuilding them, then you get a remanufactured motor for a lot less than the new one. Often, you can't tell the difference. My 3.4 was so nice, the mechanic thought it was brand new. If it helps, I feel your pain. I've had three motors in my Boxster (the original, a used 3.4 that I paid $3500 for, and a new 3.4). The swaps were because of a blown motor due to a known oiling issue under high G forces in a left hand turn after extremely hard braking. I can highly recommend the 3.4 swap. The best part of the swap is not the extra oomph, rather the massively improved fuel mileage. If I set the cruise on about 60-65, when I return from the race track I get around 35 mpg. Around town I get around 20-22 depending on my "spirit". -Michael

It could be a lot of reasons, but the most likely thing I think is either the super simple check of the air pressure, or the only slightly less simple check of the alignment. I'm guessing you might have a touch of toe-out in the front, or even the rear. Unless you're tracking the car, I'd stay away from toe outside of the stock settings. Stock for the front IIRC is dead straight. The rear might have a little toe-in, but not much. P-cars are very reactive to minor suspension changes. Once you get it dialed-in, you'll be very happy with the feel. -Michael

There's an Italian company which makes an airbox you can install. Todd knows the name, but it's hidden away in my engine compartment right now and I don't remember what it is. That solved my intake problem. Now I just need to fix the exhaust. -Michael

I've been (ab)using my non-S Boxster for several years now, and I'd say the non-S is faster in many ways. First, the weight makes it a better platform. Being lighter, I was able to win the S1 class at the local PCA autocross events against a VERY talented husband-wife team in an S. The weight was really the deciding factor. Also, on the big track, my times with a stock Boxster were only about a half second off the S of another senior instructor. Since then, I've bumped up the motor to a 3.4, done a PSS9, Eibach bars, and R888 tires. Those improvements have taken about 5 seconds off my lap times. Once I get the stiffer springs and put a roll cage in it, I should be able to pull another couple of seconds. These few changes, and I'm a LOT faster than the S. I had a guy in an M5 trying to catch me a few months ago on the Shenandoah Circuit at Summit Point. It was futile. :lol: The only regret I have is not having a 6 speed. With the better gearing of the 6 speed, I think I could get more acceleration above 80 m.p.h. where 3rd gear is better in the 6 speed. My brakes are the stock system with EBC Yellowstuff or Pagid Orange, and high temperature brake fluid, and I don't have stopping issues. I did cook the stock Ate Typ 200 (or Super Blue) fluid. I tried the GT3 scoops and they helped, but I still cooked the fluid. Now, with GS610, I'm able to brake hard all day long. -Michael

I ended up having to replace both the slave cylinder under the dash and the helper on top of the transmission. There's also an issue when under extremely hard braking (like at the track) where the line for clutch hydraulics will get pinched, but I don't think that's the issue you're having. -Michael

I tend to lean toward the Boxster in that list. It really depends on the course. I like the balance of all three, but the motor and relative newness of the Boxster makes it a better option for me. Also, with the SpecBoxster series taking off so well, performance parts and even donor cars are getting cheaper. Having spun both a 944 and a Boxster, I don't find the experience to be that much different. I think I was able to get back rolling faster with the Boxster based on the fact that it didn't travel much in the spin. However, my first recommendation is to not spin. :P I'd say you should look at the lap times at the tracks you wan to compete on. If the Boxster is pulling faster times, go for that. If the 944 is the king, go for that. Personally, at Summit Point, the Boxster tends to seriously outrun the 944/968 (both in stock trim). I haven't seen a race trim Boxster out there, but I think it could turn times a little faster than the SuperCup cars. It also depends on the driver. -Michael

I lasted almost a year, and that was only because I was trying to stay in the PCA AX S1 class. Actually, I had already upgraded the brake pads which didn't keep me out of Stock. The R-compound tires finally did it. -Michael

Depending on what you're doing, you can get a lot out of using the GT3 air scoops, high temperature fluid, and a better pad than stock. I also use Powerslot rotors with those things. If you're tracking the car, this will let you go a LOT deeper in the braking zones. I've thought about upgrading to a bigger rotor, but I haven't found an S that could go deeper than I could, mostly because of weight. Start with this and see how you feel. Then, if you want to go for a bigger brake rotor setup, you can, and you have the extra cooling and ability to take even more heat in the fluid. -Michael

The troopers in NC will just about always give you a ticket if you're over their limit. Fortunately, the limit they set is pretty high. I think that stretch of 200 is only 55, and on a road like that, they'll let you do 65 or so. They might even let you get away with 70 if there's really zero traffic. That being said, I got pulled and ticketed for 62 in a 55 way back in the late 80s on Hwy 49. Sometimes they're just bored. ;) I really don't think it matters which attorney you get, as long as it's a local one. If you get one from "the big city" (Charlotte), they're probably not going to be happy. NC is mostly a "Good Ole Boys' Club" when it comes to that. It's best to get one from the same county so they know the judge. Unfortunately, your actions of pulling in at the trooper's uncle's house show you know you were speeding so I don't think they can get away with improper equipment. You're kinda screwed there. Next time, and I know this because I used to occasionally be a driving instructor for CPD and MCPD, make a left turn when he can't see you. The default is to turn right when being chased, and all the troopers know that. They will also default right and look there for you first. That gives you a little extra time to get away and more time for him to have lost sight of you and not be able to positively identify you if he does see you again a few minutes later. Another option is to simply pull over as soon as you see he's in pursuit. They've decided whether or not they're going to give you a ticket usually before they even see you. I've talked to a lot of troopers (no, not on the side of the road with their lights going) and almost all of them say they decide whether to ticket or give a warning well before they see you coming over the hill. Now that you've gotten the ticket though, the best thing you can do is talk to a lawyer from the county. -Michael

So I bought and mostly installed the Kokeln side air scoops on my Boxsera. I was able to get the OE intake out, remove the black vanes, install the vanes on the new pieces, and get it screwed in. However, getting the clips to grab seems to be a trick. Now, the air pulls the scoops away from the side of the car a bit, and it doesn't return all the way back to flush. I've tried to get the clips to go back in, but I'm not having much luck. What's the trick? -Michael

I also had a 74 911 when I was there in the late 80s. It was a Targa. I had done a good bit of suspension work on it. That car was amazing. -Michael

Also, did you drop the seat all the way down? The seat does adjust up and down as well as the traditional adjustments. It's always interesting when I get a student who uses the "racing style" instead of "driving school" method. There's a reason you're taught that way... If you have a steering wheel which will go from center to full lock in a 90 degree turn, and then back to center and 90 degrees the other way to full opposite lock, then keeping your hands on the wheel makes perfect sense. Almost every car on the street is much more than that. It wouldn't work to have a tight steering ratio as the street is too twitchy for that. Going to the "driving school" method will help you be safer and more comfortable. We teach you that way for a reason. :lightbulb: -Michael

6'0" and 200 lbs...no problems. I'm not sure what problem you're having. It could be a technique problem. -Michael

I've used Roock's shop with great results. I don't know anyone else in Atlanta, but I was extremely happy with the work they did on my car. -Michael

In my Boxsera I run GS610. I boiled the Ate stuff (both Super Blue and Typ 200). The first time I thought it was just old. When I boiled it after 5 laps the second time, I put in SRF. Not wanting to spend $70/bottle again, I looked for something else with a very high temperature. GS610 is very high and the price is right. I haven't boiled it yet, but I'm trying. :lol: -Michael

I have either a 2+ or a 3. I forget which one I ended up getting. Make sure you let them know if you have a lightweight single mass flywheel. Otherwise, you'll find yourself stalling out for a while until you get really used to it. So far I've been very happy with it. By this time I would have burned up the Sachs Sport clutch. The people at Spec were very helpful in getting the right one to fit my car. -Michael

No need to take the parts to a mechanic for the brakes. I just did the front and rear pads and front rotors on my car in just about an hour, but I had some difficulties. An absolute novice could do the same in under two hours, and maybe 90 minutes. Brakes are amazingly easy on our cars. It seriously takes longer to jack up the car and remove the wheels than it does to change the pads. If your rotors are fine, then for the pads you'll need: Hammer Hole punch (or any long skinny metal rod you can push the bolt out with) Needle nose pliers 19mm deep socket (or the one in the tool kit in the pocket of the spare tire cover) Torque wrench capable of 97 ft/lbs Using the 19mm socket, loosen the lug nuts. Jack the car up, remove the wheel nuts and place the wheel under the frame by the jack point (using the wheel like a jack stand). Using the needle nose pliers, remove the cotter pin holding the bolt in place. Take your hole punch (or metal rod) and hammer and tap out the bolt holding the spring and pads in. Chase down the metal spring because it shot across the garage while you were tapping out the bolt. Lightly tap the brake pads to free them from the caliper. Pull the old pads out. You may need a screwdriver or the metal rod (hole punch) to get them started. Push the caliper pistons back to the fully retracted position. Use one of the old pads and make a lever out of the edge of the caliper. It's pretty easy to do. Insert the new pads. It's a tight fit so make sure your pistons have been pushed back completely. Put the metal spring back on, insert the bolt, and then the cotter pin. Put the wheel back on. Put the lug nuts back on hand tight. Lower the car and then tighten the lug nuts back to 97ft/lbs. Go to the other side of the car and do the same thing there. If you want to tackle the rotors, you'll need three more tools: Breaker bar with a T10 (I think that's the size...it was just in my hands a few hours ago) 10mm socket Large philips head screwdriver During the process of the pads, once they're out, use the T10 and breaker bar to remove the two bolts holding the caliper on. Once those are out, use the 10mm to remove the bolt holding the brake line close to the strut. Pull the caliper off and let it hang. You shouldn't have a problem with it hanging for a few minutes. If you're going to take a break for a beer, you might want to find a place to support it. A bent up clothes hangar attached to the springs usually works well. Using the screwdriver, remove the two screws holding the rotor in place. You may have to beat on it a little as the heat tends to tighten these things up. Since you're not going to use the rotors again, once the screws are removed, smack the surface of the rotor with the hammer a few times to break it loose from the hub. Put the new rotor on, lining up the screw holes and put the screws back in. Use this point to install the pads back in the caliper and press open the pistons. It's easier to do it at this point since the caliper is just dangling. Once the pads, spring, bolt, and pin are back in, put the caliper back on. Tighten the bolts about hand tight. I think the spec is either 38 or 68 ft/lbs. I'm sure someone here will know for sure and can chime in. Lather, rinse, repeat... For the final step, tell your wife/girlfriend you just saved $600 by doing it yourself. It shouldn't take you more than an hour to complete the pads. The first time I did it on the Boxster, it took me about 35-40 minutes and I'm really not that mechanically inclined. Now, I can do it in about 20. Rotors take about 30 mintues, and the rears are also about 20 for the pads. If you're doing it all at the same time, 50 to 75 minutes tops once you've done it two or three times. Adding in the rear rotors will push it to about 90 minutes. -Michael

I won't be able to get the scoops installed in time for tomorrow's event, but next Friday the Aston Martin dealership is holding an event I'm instructing for. I'll have them installed for that one. I don't think we'll see much of a temperature difference so the results should be telling. I also need to install my "racing" exhaust. The problems I have with it though are it's too loud for the street, and it doesn't fit with the normal tubing off the cats. I should just break down and get the B&B. -Michael

I've been working on getting my 2000 Boxsera (Boxster with a Carrera 3.4l motor) to pull a little more speed on the straights, and I think the problem is clear. I'm not getting enough air into the airbox (replaced with aftermarket product from Italy) for the motor to make any power above about 85-90 m.p.h. so I end up capping out at about 125 at Summit Point instead of the 145 I'm expecting by the end of the straight. I was hoping the airbox change would help, but the way the air intake is angled on the car, I don't think enough air is getting down there. I've put my hand down the side of the car at various speeds, and I find the faster I go, the less air appears to get into the intake. I'm hoping the Kokeln scoop will help, but I want to see if anyone has used them and can comment on whether or not it actually does what I'm expecting. -Michael

So many people try to get heel-and-toe down on the track. The track isn't a good place to learn it. You're already putting the car to the limits. You're already putting yourself to the limits. Don't extend both of those limits by trying something like this which will drive you and the car both over the limit. I tell my students who want to learn, they need to do it on the drive home. I'll teach them how to do it in an unpopulated part of the paddock so they get the basics. Then, I encourage them to do it all the time, every day. At first it will suck. A lot! Then, once they start getting good at it, they're coming to the next track event and they're smoooooooooooth with it. They have a much better experience. Getting heel-and-toe down at 20 m.p.h. and .2G on a public road is a lot easier than trying to do it at 40 m.p.h. and .9G on a race track with people breathing down your neck. -Michael