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savowood

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Posts posted by savowood

  1. If you're pushing the car at all, you'll completely fry the Redstuff. Yellowstuff is a bit better, but if you're really flying at 100%, you'll end up cooking them as well. Yellowstuff is better than Redstuff, but if you're not at least in an advanced group, you probably won't notice.

    The brake ducts are an important upgrade to keep things cool. The extra airflow seems to make a difference. Excellent choice to put them on there.

    Cross-drilled rotors are pointless nowadays. In the days of pads that released gasses, it was a good idea. Now it just reduces the braking surface area and the holes get clogged up with brake pad material.

    If you have 17" wheels (or larger), the best thing you can do for your braking system is put Carrera brakes on the front. They're the same as the Boxster S brakes, but the calipers are black. Then, put something like GS610 or some other 600 degree fluid in. Then, depending on your level of commitment, a good set of racing pads. I'm currently using PFC 06 pads on the front and stock on the rear. I've run Hawk Blue, PFC 97, PFC 01, Pagid Yellow, Pagid Orange, and Hawk HP+. The PFC 06 pads on the Carrera rotors/calipers is the best combination I've found so far, and I think I've stopped looking.

    Before any of your smarty-pants say something about the Carrera brakes being cross-drilled, I know. I've been looking for a solid disk, but haven't been able to find any. Once I do, I'm switching and will get even better braking.

  2. Does anyone have any experience with the adaptation of the BMC Carbon Dynamic Airbox in Boxster 3.4L or 3.6L engine conversions? After searching through the various forums I have not found any information on the usage of this option as an air intake system for engine-converted Boxsters.

    The picture of that Kokeln car looks exactly how I did mine. You'll need some tubing, hose clamps, and patience. It's a tight space to work in, but it fits.

    -Michael

  3. Go for the SPEC 3 clutch. It's cheaper than the 2+ and can better handle the power. It's also lighter on the left leg than the Sachs sport or even standard clutch.

    I went with headers, cats, and a Borla exhaust. If you want to have a conversation with anyone while driving, skip the Borla. If you want the coolest sounding car within 1000 miles, put it on. The Borla is for the S and will take some clever work to secure it, but it's not hard. It's supposed to connect to the transmission with I think 4 bolts. I had a bunch of nuts and a single bolt to connect it there. It works fine. You'll need to get the headers to make it fit.

    The cats are a good idea, but not absolutely necessary from what I understand.

    You may want to consider a 6 speed transmission and axles from an S. They're stronger so you're less likely to snap one in an autocross or when going over a speed bump like I did. However, I track the car a lot so that likely had more to do with it than the speed bump.

    You're going to love the feel of the car with the extra horses.

    HTH

    -Michael

  4. No highs, no lows, must be Bose.

    Bose is, to be generous to them, astonishingly terrible. I am amazed Porsche partnered with them. (The word "Böse" in German means "evil".)

    The later comments on how mushy the subwoofer is are exactly on track from what I've heard. The company is all about marketing. They talk you into thinking they sound great. In reality, they're not at all.

    All that being said, in a car is probably the worst listening environment you could have. This is also why it's great. When I'm working on a mixdown from a tracking session and think I'm ready to send it off to the record company or mastering studio, I'll listen on the nearfield monitors, the producer pleasers, the "Horrortones", then put it on a crappy cassette and take it out to listen in a car. If I can hear everything I expect to hear in all those cases, then I'm ready to send it off.

    So, if you want to listen in the car, don't spend a fortune, and in my opinion, skip the Bose option. You're paying for marketing instead of sound quality.

    -Michael

  5. Hi all

    I'm looking for a motorsport AOS for my Boxster with a Carrera motor. I've recently put Hoosiers on it for the track, and that pretty well overdoes what the basic AOS can handle. I know I can find one at Suncoast or Sunset, but I was hoping to find someone who bought one and although good intentions were to install it, it isn't installed. Even a mildly used one would be fine. I'm just looking to save some dough on this costly part.

    -Michael

  6. I've been using Harry's Lap Timer for about a year now and like it. A few caveats...

    1. The accuracy is heavily dependent upon your GPS signal strength.

    2. The data export is messed up, but fixable. It's supposed to be in a comma-delimited form. It's not quite right, but easy to fix.

    3. You must run through the calibration phase every time you use it. It doesn't take long, but it can get annoying. However, since you probably moved the unit between sessions, you'll need to do it.

    Recently, Harald updated the iPhone version to be the "professional" version. The GPS rate jumped from 1.5 Hz or so up to about 35 Hz. I think this will help immensely with the accuracy. I haven't tried it on the track just yet, but plan to do so next Friday.

    -Michael

  7. Spend the extra $3500 and get the whole motor.

    Either way, you're going to need headers by my recollection. I think the problem is space. The 996 motor is wider or something like that, so you need different headers. If you want the authoritative answer, tholyoak is the man. He's done several swaps and can tell you for sure whether the headers will work or not. I'd recommend doing the intake, headers, cats, and muffler. It's a bigger motor that wants to eat more. If it eats more, it's going to poop more. The restrictiveness of the stock Boxster system could cause issues.

    -Michael

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